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Isolator Switch for Headlamp

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delsol
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Isolator Switch for Headlamp Reply with quote

In around 6 weeks time I’m off to a rather remote location, no garages, no shops and even worse than that – no pub. Sad

I’m taking a CG125, the battery is very small and the headlight soaks up a lot of battery charging power.

I will be doing a lot of very short, slow speed, stop\start journeys, I’m sure the battery will give out if I leave the headlight to come on every time I start up. No kick start on this model.

Electricity is available, but I would need to carry my own battery charger; I need to save weight and space for necessities, i.e. beer and fuel; and other emergency essentials (more booze). Razz

Can anyone recommend a good waterproof isolator switch (and a good mounting point location)? I don’t intend to remove said switch after the trip.

Any alternative suggestions really appreciated.

Thanks for any help,
delsol
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about attaching one of these to the back of the bike https://www.maplin.co.uk/solar-powered-12v-2.4w-battery-trickle-charger-223251?c=froogle&u=223251&t=module

Learn to bump start the bike.

FWIW and it might be rubbish, 12v electrics don't need to be waterproof, its how the cheap electric subs carry on working despite taking on water. Look on Maplin for a switch that will fit on the bike.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

learn to bump start. often easyer than kick starting.

the lights are usually a seperate winding anyway, wont affect charging.
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delsol
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Marki,

The solar powered charger is a good idea, but I really need to minimise the amount of kit I carry (my little battery charger weighs less and takes up less space than the solar option).

I was hoping that someone could give me a link to a suitable switch, say handlebar mounted, something that blends in with existing switches and reliable long term.

When I try a web-search I end up with bathroom light fittings etc., probably because I don't know the correct terminology to use Embarassed

cheers
delsol
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neatbik
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Vehicle wiring products ltd.
I cant access their website at the mo but chances are they have what you seek.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the bike not have an 'on off' switch for the head lamp?
(not being dense, my VF tho doesn't have one, dip is 'hard wired' as an export model)

Anyway, two thoughts; first, honda did a lot of very careful calculation when they designed the electrical system; sizing the generator output and the battery capacity, and the headlamp wattage, and designed as a 'commuter' presumed the bike would spend most of its life doing 'short hops'.

In practice CG's have been used for many years by training schools, with the lights left always 'on', and the engines off for very long periods, and the e-start hammered, starting up between every pep talk..... and they haven't often had to resort to bump starting or jump starting them......

If all is as it should, as in you haven't loaded the thing up with umpety electrical accessories, like heated grips, portable fridge for your beer, monster watt headlamp bulb and festooned it with spots and neons..... NO REASON to believe that the battery shouldn't cope.....

Unless its fecked.

In which case, £20 to get a new one, would be a prudent investment, rather than WAITING until it starts giving you jip to think about it.......

Meanwhile..... if you REALLY want a headlamp switch.....

Old fasioned bikes had a hole drilled in the top of the headlamp shell, and a Lucas 'toggle' switch bolted through it.

headlamp should be 55w ish, which at 12v, Power = Volts x Amps, gives you roughly a 5a current draw. any suitable switch with a rating over that, maybe 6a to be on the safe side, splced into the headlamp bulb wire would do the job.

Really you only need it spliced onto the 'dipped' beam feed, which would still allow the high beam to work, when switched 'off' so 'flash' would still iluminate one filliment.

Alternatively, if you switched the 'common' earth to the bulb, it would isolate both filliments, without needing a double pole switch... BUT, you'd need one with a current rating probably around 12-15A, as the earth carries both filliment currents on 'pass', and possibly also side light.
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delsol
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
learn to bump start. often easyer than kick starting.

the lights are usually a seperate winding anyway, wont affect charging.


Cheers kramdra,

Really don't know if the CG has a seperate winding that won't affect charging (electrics ain't my thing).

I was just going by what I read on a CG125 maintenance web page.

Quote: “An electric start Honda CG125 needs a massive amount of power (voltage and current) to start the engine (battery needs to be healthy and fully charged or nearly).”

The same author also mentions that the battery is a 12V 4Ah, (so very low power output), and that it takes a substantial time at relatively high revs for the charging system to bring the battery up to a good level of charge because of the headlamp’s consumption.

If all of the above is correct then if I get a flat battery I’m gonna be doing a lot of bump starts, so I will take your advice and start practising. Smile

That's why I thought that maybe one of the best things I could do would be to fit a switch, I won't need day running lights as I won't be using the bike much, if at all, in the dark;
and there is no law enforcement where I'm going Rolling Eyes .
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delsol
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Teflon-Mike,

EDIT: No the bike does not have seperate switch for the headlamp, headlamp stays off though whilst the starter motor is turning.

That's just the kind of information that will help me to make an informed purchase, read your reply once and didn't understand a fookin word of it Smile .

Will read and re-read till it sinks in though.

Cheers Thumbs Up


Last edited by delsol on 20:46 - 21 Jun 2011; edited 1 time in total
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delsol
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

beatnck2 wrote:
Try Vehicle wiring products ltd.
I cant access their website at the mo but chances are they have what you seek.
Thumbs Up


Me too, can't get through but will try later, looks like a promising source.

cheers mate Thumbs Up
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://motorbikejackets.org.uk/product/4/10032918/Motorcycle-Handlebar-Switch-On-Off-12v-55amp.html

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-UNIVERSAL-ON-OFF-KILL-SWITCH-BUTTON-22mm-HANDLEBARS-/200590516130?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2eb4205fa2

Better?
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neatbik
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries mate. Thumbs Up

Where are you going anyway..?
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delsol
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

beatnck2 wrote:
No worries mate. Thumbs Up

Where are you going anyway..?


Island off the Donegal coast (Ireland), only inhabited by a small number of people for a few months of the year.

Will use this boat, or one very like it to get the CG ashore, could be fun Rolling Eyes
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 21 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

holy shit £14!

tbh, get a standard switch, from a proper electrics shop, and find somewhere to mount it. usually just a case of drilling a hole, filing it out.

https://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Rocker-Switches
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