Removing exhaust studs

[grant965]

hi, seals had broken on exhaust and so my mate is changing them for me along with the exhaust studs. Problem is we can't get the studs out. No tread left on any of the studs and nothing seems to work.
Any ideas?
thanks, Grant
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Ex bikes: 05 Suzuki En 125, '98 Yamaha Thundercat, '08 Honda cbr125, '05 Kawasaki z750, '03 Triumph Daytona 600, '91 Kawasaki ex250, '03 Hyosung Comet 125
Current Bike: '02 Suzuki TL1000R

[dextersaurus]

Stud remover?

Cheap off ebay and seem to work well.

Me, i'd use one of these

https://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/pipe-wrench-1.jpg

Dunc

[grant965]

[dragstaar]

molegrips always do the trick for me

[grant965]

[dextersaurus]

Thing about a plumbing spanner is that it gets a tighter grip the more you turn it, the same as the stud extractors.

Dunc

[MarkJ]

I had the same problem here, got them out with a Sealey VS7232 in the end, gips really well. One of the studs only had 10mm of stud protruding out of the head as I snapped it.

https://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Images/DB_Detail/_106987_203864.jpg

[Raffles]

Removing exhaust studs is not just about using brute force. In order to reduce the likelihood of snapping a few it's always a good idea to warm up the area around the stud prior to attempting removal.
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A good loser will always be a loser.

[DrDonnyBrago]

^^^ I agree, if you just bludgeon your way onto a snapped stud you'll just snap them off lower down where there is no chance of gripping it.

Soak them in plusgas for a few days, IME it doesn't help much on really corroded bits but it can't hurt. Then as raffles said get some heat onto the head around the stud, try cooling the stud with ice too as this can help.

You are aiming to expand the metal around the stud (heating) and shrink the stud itself (cooling), makes removing it easier.

[Fairies attack]

Heat the casing around the stud and use some decent quality mole grips. Try not to heat the stud though. It should be fairly simple to do because the casings are alu so will heat up and expand quicker than the stud.

If you have a welding plant spare, weld a nut on the end that is the size of the stud then a bigger one on the end of that. It should give you more leverage, and help when heating up the casing.

And always remember to keep a constant amount of pressure on the stud, if you just try to put loads of pressure on it will snap again. Slowly increase the pressure and it will eventually 'crack' and come out.

If all else fails then take the head to a bike shop and get them to remove it. Shouldn't cost more than a couple of quid.

[Johnser]

#1 weld a nut on there. the heat will crack the threads loose. be careful though as it also has the potential to soften the stud; once it has started moving, don't just try to wind it straight out but work it out back and forth with plenty of penetrating fluid. even if you have cracked the stud off flush with the head you can use this method - just have to carefully blob weld onto the sheared face until there's enough to grab hold of.

#2 don't have a welder; you can try locking a couple nuts on the thread to give you some purchase and heating it. you're more likely to have success heating the stud than the head - the head is far too large (and probably aluminum) so will dissipate the heat really quickly before enough has got anywhere near the threads. The different rates of expansion is what you're after to crack the corrosion rather than "opening up the threaded hole to release the stud" if you are worried the bolt will have expanded and be stuck in the hole, spray some more penetrating fluid on it to cool the stud just before you try to remove it.

before you put a new stud in, carefully slit the old one and wind it in and out of the threads to clean them up - or use a tap if you have one.