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Lifan LF125GY-3 No Spark

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Mikeysoft
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 01 Jul 2011
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 01 Jul 2011    Post subject: Lifan LF125GY-3 No Spark Reply with quote

Hey guys.

I have a Lifan LF125GY-3 which I believe uses a copy of the CG125 engine. Trying to start it the other day and it turns over fine but wouldn't fire up. Checked and changed the plug but not getting any spark from it. Any ideas on what to check next?

Cheers
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truslack
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 01 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check all kill switches and cutout switches. Check continuity of the aforementioned switches against a wiring diagram (some killswitches short coil to earth, some connect supply to coil).
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Mikeysoft
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 01 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will do that tonight. I assumed the kill switch wouldn't even let the engine turn over but I will take a look Smile
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 01 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikeysoft wrote:
Will do that tonight. I assumed the kill switch wouldn't even let the engine turn over but I will take a look Smile

Nope, didn't they tell you that one on CBT?
It's usually mentioned in the 'Machine Familiarisation' section at the beginning; and it'#s usually quipped that just about every biker ever born, has at one time or another tried starting thier bike, with the kill switch in the 'off' possition, and flattened the battery or worn themselves out on the kickstart, or got carried away looking for faults, swapping coils stripping carbs, all manner of stuff, until some one comes along and turns the kill switch to 'on' and it fires first try!

ANYWAY: Most chinky bikes have sidestand cut out switch, of dubiouse reliability, as well, which is the next thing to check.

Moast small hondas have an earth shorted ignition kill, so the ignition switch, and kill switch both MAKE a circuit from the CDi unit to bypass the coil and kill sparks.

Then they have a starter 'inhibit' on the neutral lamp, so unless the neutral lamp is lit... (NOTE: not 'the bike's in neutral'... two things aren'a ALWAYS one and the same!) starter solenoid wont engage.

But then they have an inhibitor, 'bypass' on the clutch, so if the neutral lamps not lit, but the clutch pulled in, starter solenoid will engage starter circuit.

So that sorts those curiocities out; leaving teh last thing to mention, battery. Small Hondas normally use a 'self ecited' ignition system. Ie they dont take charge from the battery to power the ignition circuit, power comes direct from independent winding in the generator, so you only get sparks if the motor is wizzing over.

If you have weak battery; or battery has been significantly discharged (leaving it with parking lamps on, for eg), or after much engine cranking, TRYING to start it...... the starter wont whip the engine over fast enough to make volts for the ignition system.

In which case, try charging the battery, or perhaps bump starting.

OTHER one, and its another 'silly' thing.... when you took spark plug out to check for sparks..... you DID have the spark plug 'earthed'... the metal bit resting on the engine casing or similar, didn't you?

Some people don't realise this, they think that the HT lead makes the circuit....

And the other one.... even if you did have sparker resting on engine, engines often painted or laquered, and you dont get a good earth just 'resting'..... My Montesa Trials bike, I've had, twenty five years now! Boy, we're both getting lng in teh tooth! Yeah, has a patch of paint on cylinder finning sanded off especially for checking the spark condition! (Common problem; its a 6v points timed, 'magneto' system, and a two stroke thats spark sensitive!)

Testing cars or bikes, I often find BEST way to see sparks, is to hold the metal bit of spark plug in the crocadile clip of a jump lead, teh other end clipped to the battery negative, or a 'good' earth like swing arm spindle, to be 'sure' its well earthed..... saves holding sparker and risking a jolt too......

And lastly, when looking for spark, especially this time of year, 'weak' self exited systems woll often make a very 'thin' spark, unless the engine is really spinning fast, and in direct sunlight, can be hard to see..... so moving to find som shade, shaddow or 'dark' can really help be sure IF you are getting actual arcing accross the electrodes.
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