Couple of issues, can ya help?

[Zeuky]

Right before we get started, need to state that my experience with mechanics goes about as far as "Oh, so that's how you change the oil!" but was wondering if anyone had any advice on these 2 irritations, or whether it's nothing to worry about.

First off, I'm bobbing about on a BMW K1200 RS. It's got this annoying bloody thing where sometimes you can't get it into first gear from neutral without slamming your foot down on the gear lever. Not too much bother, more just a pain now and then.
And secondly, I think I might have a slight overheating problem. I'll go out for a quick half hour on the bike, and when I get back I notice the temperature gauge reading rather high. Like the other day for a job at work, I did about a 12 mile trip in total. Got home just about to turn the bike off, and the temperature gauge is reading at about 60-70%.

Im just concerned if I happen to do a nice long trip, whether the bike's going to die on me. Anything you think I could have a look at?

Thanks in advance!
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[temeluchus]

Poor gearchanges at idle/low speeds is a symptom of the gearbox input shaft splines, where they go into the clutch plate, needing to be regreased. This is an involved job as the back wheel, swinger, drive shaft and gearbox has to come off to get at the splines. When the splines are dry the clutch drags a little and makes it hard to change into first.

As for the cooling issue, has the bike always run warm or has it suddenly started recently? You may need to check your coolant level and the function of your thermostat. If the guage is still in the "green" I'd not worry too much. I assume your fans are coming on at the right moments?
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[stinkwheel]

At this time of year, liquid cooled bikes get really hot if travelling in town or at low speeds. So if you've been riding round in town but the temperature shows normal at higher speeds, I wouldn't worry. The fan should come on if it gets near the top and hold it there.

It's all about the temperature difference. An air cooled bike engine will be sat a good 100 degrees hotter at normal running temperature and has a good plus or minus 50 degree range of "normal". A 20 degree difference in ambient air temperature between summer and winter isn't going to affect it as much.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[whitedevil]

For your gear issue you have 2 options either roll the bike forward or backward a little and it will drop into first or just let the clutch out till it starts to bite then it will drop into first.

For the heat issue if its just started happening, flush out the cooling system and fill with new coolant. if its always done it its probably normal as water cooled bikes do get hot really quick under 30mph.
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GPZ500 sold ~ CBR600FS-2 sold ~ ZX6R sold ~ Street Triple R

[Vincent]

If you're having to "slam" the gearshift, there's definately a problem somewhere and continued rough treatment can only make it worse or cause other problems. What's the mileage? Is the bike not still covered by BMW warranty?
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Space Is Deep

[MickC]

Oh, so that's how you change the oil!"

Having said that when was the last time you changed the oil?. Dirty oil can effect gear changing (on my old Honda i have to do it every 1500 miles or i get difficulty getting it into and out of 1st)
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[Zeuky]

Right from top to bottom.

I've just checked the coolant level. It's sitting on MIN, maybe just below, so I'm going to top it up. Or I may even just replace the lot over the weekend and see how I get on.
As for the fans, I'm pretty sure they're coming on correctly. I sometimes hit the killswitch when stuck at traffic lights for ages and where the battery is still on you can hear the fan's whirring away.

As for the gearbox, to be more precise, I'll start the bike up in Neutral. Push the gear lever down, and the green 'N' light disappears. Let the clutch out slowly and there's no bite or movement, and then the lovely green 'N' magically reappears. When i said "slam" it's not like I'm really thumping my foot on it. More like a very firm press. I expect this probably still isn't helping the bike in any way.

I doubt the bike is still covered by BMW warranty, and it wouldn't be in my name anyways. I think the milage is about 30k, but the bike's from 1997. Only bought it a couple months back off a work colleague as it'd been sitting on his drive for 2 years doing nothing.

As for the oil, changed that about a month ago.

Cheers for all the replies! Now to let my fingers rest

Edit: I've decided I'm going to change all the coolant on Saturday. How hard can it be? Am I right in thinking that Engine Coolant is just water and anti-freeze?
____________________
"S'cuse me mate but you left something under your car... think they call it a 'KEEP CLEAR' sign... No no, i don't need to go down that road to get to where I LIVE. Proposterous!"
https://www.CrunchySlipper.co.uk/

[temeluchus]

Bare in mind the K1200RS is a Flying Brick style beemer. It has a seperate engine and gearbox with a dry clutch so most advice learned from other bikes wont apply.

As I said in my post, youll need to look at the gearbox input splines-its a well known issue for flying brick bikes (K75?/100/1100/1200).
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!