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Honda CB TDC 125 Project

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richjp
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 19:40 - 24 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

God stuff as always Mike - thanks. Sorry about the photo of the gears - attached again.

It was good to have the thing apart even if in the end it maybe wasn't warranted - all good learning stuff!

Looks like a new cam chain make sense! That looks nasty! However, as this isn't a TDC engine, I guess I need to look for one for a CD 125 T? The driven sprocket and the actual chain in this engine are different from what's on a TDC I think - this driven sprocket only has one set of teeth and the chain make up is different - see photo. I think the TDC sprocket has two sets of teeth and a different chain design?

I'll also take a look at the valves etc. Not sure about a new barrel - will muse on it. Good luck with the head!
cheers
Rich
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lozza59
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 24 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice job so far Thumbs Up keep us updated Very Happy
have you got a pic of the cam on its own?
i saw a cb on ebay that looked a bit muddled up and not just the engine! its fairly new being an 04 plate though, Confused

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-cb-125-t-/110718903825?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19c75c6611
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 24 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

lozza59 wrote:
nice job so far Thumbs Up keep us updated Very Happy
have you got a pic of the cam on its own?
i saw a cb on ebay that looked a bit muddled up and not just the engine! its fairly new being an 04 plate though, Confused

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-cb-125-t-/110718903825?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19c75c6611

THAT....
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqF,!lEE4NI9eRl8BOKbrOR%207g~~_12.JPG
Isn't a CB125'T'.... the last Honda CB125TD 'Twin' was made in Japan aprox 1992.
That is a Korean or Tiwanese, 'Home Market' Honda 'Bitsa' crated from licenc built Honda Parts.
It has CB125TDC bodywork and wheels, Jailing mad 'twin-port' CG engine, and a H100 'twin shock' frame.
Couple of container loads have been grey imported into the UK, thy are NOT honda's and even LESS CB125 Twin.
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humanbeing
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 24 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
...
That is a Korean or Tiwanese, 'Home Market' Honda 'Bitsa' crated from licenc built Honda Parts.
It has CB125TDC bodywork and wheels, Jailing mad 'twin-port' CG engine, and a H100 'twin shock' frame.
Couple of container loads have been grey imported into the UK, thy are NOT honda's and even LESS CB125 Twin.

The REAL CB125T assembled by Jialing looks like this ('97 made)
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 24 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

humanbeing wrote:
The REAL CB125T assembled by Jialing looks like this ('97 made)
https://attachments.motorfans.com.cn/day_080105/RFNDXzAxNjfQoQ==_ErllxHvhKj3I_1yCZxzakDbAt.jpg
Hmmm I have no idea what the blog says...
Quote:
D2 7月19 多云 阵雨 第二天早上8点君达车队又送我和龙头出行,令我感激不已。
kind of thing obviousely being the best translation Google Chrome can come up with..... But, I REALLY hope that chap is an accountant, who likes to dress up in army surplus to ride his motorbike! If not.... idea that China has Nuclear ICBM's makes me VERY scared!
Bad Bruce Lee Dubbing wrote:
Wot yew Siy? Mah Mhot-ha-sycle, Whanda? Nooo FEESH! I geez yew FEESH! Yew vite deveel, shild visowt-a fazeer! WHANDA, Whanda goe VEWY fasht, vewy, vewy, fasht, eee KNOW feeesh!"
{Camera cut to wide angle, lots of out of sinc grunting.... Close up of army surplus guy on on ground, reaching for AK47 copy lying in dirt, Bruce Standin, kicking him in face, Close up of Army Surplus guy's lip bleeding, pan to Bruce Stand in... then close up of big red industrial button, cut to Army Surplus guy running towards control panel}
"Ha! Eye shoo yew! FEESH! I pwess dis buddon; Ducati? It be Sushi! Awl Vite devil lahn, eet be FEESH Fu'd! Hop yw ha'nuff soy-soss! Bi-Em-wubbloo? Ha! ee, aHaDD'ucK! WHANDA! Noooo FEESH!"
{Close up of Army Surplus guy, laughing manically; cut to hand slapping on industrial panel button; cut to archive footage of rocket with CDR Star coming out of bunker"}

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lozza59
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PostPosted: 01:55 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes that 'cb 125 t' looked like a bitsa to me too.


Quote:
Looks like a new cam chain make sense!


i am too now worried about my cam chain now after seeing the photo of yours Mike! i am guessing the bottom end has to be split to change it?
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richjp
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 08:11 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys

Iozza - here's a photo of the cam shaft from my engine - need to make sure I get the right timing chain for it as it's not the same driven sprocket as a TDC and therefore the chain itself is probably different. I'm assuming that a chain for a CD-125 T would be appropriate?

In my limited experience of all of this I would imagine you would need to split the crank case to change the chain, but I'm sure Mike will confirm or deny that!

cheers
Rich
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK.... anomolouse!
What your pic shows is a Hi-Vo 'gear' tooth plat chain, rather than a roller chain, either 'simplex' like a standard drive chain in miniature, ie one 'row' of tooth holes, or 'duplex', two rows of tooth holes, as the CB125's cam chain.

OK.... E-bay:- "CAM CHAIN CB125 TDC SUPERDREAM CD125 CM125 HONDA"
https://i15.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/2c/5c/3958_12.JPG
"PART NOS CC25T2X94; TO FIT MODELS , HONDA CB125T / TDC /TDE / SUPER DREAM..CM125 / 200T CUSTOM /... CD185T"

Well, this would seem 'helpful' ish...
BUT; bit of digging on Honda Europe Microfishe.....
Honda CB125TA 14401-399-003
Honda CB125TD-C 14401-399-003 Duplex
Honda CM125 14401-399-003 Duplex
Honda CD125 14401-230-003 Simplex
Honda CA125 14401-402-731 HiVo

SO, going back, when you researched engine No, turned up as a CA 125 Rebel Engine, and by the looks of it, thats the only variant that appears to use HiVo Cam Chain... BUT I am going by pictures!

You are now going to 'ouch'..... £30 from Dave Silvers Spares
E-bay offers two, but one is duplx CB chain, othr a DID at £45!

My advice, don't 'guess'... if you order one, order from Dave Silvers, and do so quoting engine number and 'description', (Ie Hi-Vo Chain) and let them tell you what you want!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

lozza59 wrote:
i am too now worried about my cam chain now after seeing the photo of yours Mike! i am guessing the bottom end has to be split to change it?

Yep. You have to split the cases and completely remove the crank. Cam chain actually threaded through middle 'main' bearing support boss, bolted between the cases.
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richjp
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 25 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

as normal Mike - fantastic info cheers. I have emailed David Silver as you suggested.

I still can't find much info on a CA Rebel being around in 1984 - perhaps it also had five gears like the CB TDC?

cheers
Richard
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richjp
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 26 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heard back from David Silver - the engine is a 1997 CA 125 Rebel V apparently, which also had five gears like the TDC. Anyway I have ordered a cam chain.

I have managed to get all the old gasket stuff off the various joins, but have now hit a problem. The screw that holds the tach cable (which is damaged so I'd like to remove it) where it enters the lh crank case cover is completely stripped - impact driver could get no purchase. I have tried to drill it out, but no joy so far - and a broken drill bit. How long is this screw? I couldn't see what it looks like from https://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=13KC101&block_02=E__0600&block_03=1324 - is it #17 in the picture.

Any tips for drilling out screws?

cheers
Richard
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lozza59
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i tried drilling bolts out but usually unsuccessfull, i usually go for the hammer and chisel option Laughing not a nice way but hasnt failed me yet! i smack a notch on the outside of the bolt and then bury the falt blade screwdriver into it and smack it in the 'undo' direction. here is my oil pump housing screw/bolts from the jialing motor i stipped today!
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

richjp wrote:
How long is this screw?

About an inch.
TIP: don't drill. 'peen' the edgs of the slots back in... whn they 'round' metal goes 'somwhere', and that some where is usually 'up', so with small pinch and hammer, hammer metal back into slot, then hammer impact driver head into tighter slot to gain purchase, then get BRUTAL with the impact driver, I man HIT THE MUTHA!
And 9/10 they 'give in'.
Might take a few times peening head back over, BUT reason the head rounds as oft as not is not being brutal enough to give it some welly, combined with driving slightly off center... impact drivr is actually very good at keeping bit centered.
THAT is one place I'd not be inclined to 'drill out'.... its a blind holee through the cable drive, acting as a cota pin.
Once you have drilled had out, you have shaft you cant grip anywhere to get out...
And its a long bolt to drill down... and small for an EZ Shear to gt into....
And drilling out to next size up... well its an M6, so that would be an
M8... and big bolt shank wont go past kneck of cable boss, to hold it in which is its purpose.....
Given the inclination, I might figure a salvage, but.... probably easier to scrap the casing! (From the man that spent a whole DAY plastic welding a £3.99 kitchen pedal bin back together, rather than buy a new one!)
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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richjp
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 22:21 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again both. Although I have started drilling, I haven't got very far, so I might be able to fashion a new slot and go back to the screwdriver.

I'll let you know how I get on - pain because the new cam chain arrives tomorrow and I want to get back to the engine, but feel I need to finish what I've started with the screw - preys on your mind and irritates!

cheers
Richard
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richjp
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 28 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks both of you again - spot on! I fashioned a new slot with an old chisel big enough to get the impact screwdriver blade in and then three or four almighty wacks with a hammer and it came loose!

I also managed to get the knackered inspection cover off from the left hand side.

New cam chain has arrived and gaskets (have got the old stuff off all edges) - so will rebuild the bottom half. Still undecided what to do about the barrels/pistons - barrels look OK, so perhaps just new pistons. But then maybe for a few extra quid, may as well get new barrels. Will ponder.

cheers
Richard
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richjp
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 28 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see there are two kits:

https://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/NEW-Cylinder-barrel-kit-Honda-CB125T-CB125TDC-CM125-/370492045960

and

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CB_125_TDC_TDE_Superdream/82-87/picture/Barrel_and_Piston_-_Assembly

the first is cheaper and silver and the latter is more expensive and black.

Any other differences other than price and colour?

cheers
Richard
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lozza59
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 28 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

cant really help you on the differences in the cylinders/pistons kits they look the same to me, i think ebay version is chinese made and quite possibly the wemoto version is too. but i did notice this on the wemoto site!

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/CB_125_TDC_TDE_Superdream/82-87/picture/Cam_Timing_Chain_DID_-_Rivet_Link/

so this is for the cam chain right, which means the chain could possibly be removed through the top of the engine? i do wonder because there is a odd coloured link in the cam chain i just removed.... also while your inside your engine do you plan to replace any bearings? i dont know if its a good idea or what it would cost but whilst its in bits it could be worth while.
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richjp
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 29 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless Mike has any strong opinion I'm thinking I might go for the cheaper one! I guess if in stage 2 I get to putting in a real TDC engine, I could reuse this and paint it black. Anyway, that's a way away in the future - lots to do on stage 1 yet! I was thinking that if I got new barrels with pistons then all would fit nicely together, whereas if I just get new pistons and use the current barrel, then maybe that might introduce an issue of new pistons not fitting as well? Or am I talking rubbish?

On the cam chain (but again no expert in such things) - I didn't notice any odd link on the new chain I just got (it's come as a continuos loop), but then I didn't really look very closely. However, even if you could open a link and take the chain out, wouldn't you still need to get into the crankcase to thread the new chain around the crankshaft? Or have I misunderstood your intention?

cheers
Richard
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 29 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lozza:
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/LD07%20Eng%20Build/101_0192.jpg
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link......
YES, 'soft link' cam chains have been around a long time.
You 'cut' the old chain, and HOPE not to loose the ends... using a bit of copper wire, you attach end of new chain to end of old, then wind the engine over to thread it through, and with both ends of old chain 'out' and new looped over, join ends, job jobbed.... provided you can join soft link well..... but, still 'the weak link' and soft linked chains often don't have the 'life' of a continiouse loop, and pottential that the weak link can be a 'snag point' others having same pitch and wear rate, soft link can have more flex in it, so 'catch' you gt the idea.
50/50 whether soft link is a worth while 'precaution'. You can only fit one like that IF the old chain is still doing its job.... if it's 'gone', you have to strip to loop round crank. But if its not gone, may b rattling, but could carry on doing its job, and rattling for a very long time, before it 'goes'... fit a soft link, and not get it 'quite' right, could actually CAUSE it to 'go', and fairly soon after fit......

Rich; Barrels!
The kits are AFAIK made for Lifan by on of the Chinky Subbies. I have had two of the silver ones, and not unimpressed by quality... and I just blew some PJ1 over them to make them black!

Got mine from Riders of Yeoville, roughly £80, barrel, pistons, gudgon pins, circlips, piston rings, bas & had gasket, & think last kit came with valve stem seals too! One before was £5 cheapr but didn't include gaskets, but Top End Kit was I think £6... for which I got a few extra bits of paper and a rocker cover seal!

I wouldn't bother with new pistons unless I was going to rebore; if I wasn't going to rebore, I'd b mindful of fitting new piston rings.

Its the rings and the cylinder that 'rub' and hence wear. Pistions don't rally wear out, thy just fill a space... and you buy new ones to fill bigger hole when you have bored the cylinder, so gap isn't too big for rings to fill.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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richjp
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 12:58 - 29 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike. Will muse on it and have another look at the current barrels. cheers
Rich
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richjp
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 13:34 - 30 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided to go for the barrel and pistons - the silver ones had gone so went for the grey/black ones. I'm thinking that for this engine I'll use the existing barrels as they look fine, but put in new pistons and rings from the kit. I can then use the new barrel for stage 2. Anyway, that's the plan. cheers Rich
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richjp
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 06 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys

I have rebuilt the crankcase with new cam chain and gasket, so onto the barrels and pistons. I'm hooked!

So much so I have also taken possession of a proper TDC engine - the crank turns smoothly, but I will strip it down and rebuild to be sure. The cylinder head also looks OK, but I think it will need a new cam shaft - I see you can get those sometimes on ebay.

Anyway, I'm going to finish stage 1 and get the current engine going. When I get to stage 2 with the proper engine I guess I'm going to have worry about the electrics. Anyway, that's some way off!

Thought I'd keep you updated!

cheers
Richard
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lozza59
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 06 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Thought I'd keep you updated!


thanks! i have been checking in for updates Thumbs Up

Quote:
I have also taken possession of a proper TDC engine


Thumbs Up great! hope you have luck with it, you seem to be doing great so far. nice job Smile
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richjp
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 19:22 - 21 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys

Back from our break and back to the bike! However, had a bit of a setback today - I was reassembling the detent arm and I over tightened the retaining bolt and the head sheared off. I have managed to drill it out - although the broken end pushed in to the chamber below the thread rather than coming out. But I note it's a sealed chamber anyway so the end can't come out into the crank case. The end is 'whole' (with a hole through where I drilled), so it's not like it's broken pieces and is tight in the chamber. The actual chamber thread is OK (I tested it) so I will be able to get a new bolt in (which I have ordered). Question: how much torque should I use on it?

cheers
Rich
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 21 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

richjp wrote:
Question: how much torque should I use on it


eff-all!

It's in the book, cant say off top of my head, but ALL the fasteners bar one or two are low torque, even bludy cylinder head nuts!

Check Machine Mart; they have low range 1/4" drive tQ wrenches for £20 inc vat; cheapest I found anywhere, because working on these motor, first time in ten years I have 'really' needed one, since I moved out of Stratford and had to let my membership of local 'Tool-Club' lapse! {Oh! the delight of a tool shed the size of my living room, wall to wall 'Snap-On'! SPOILED I was!)
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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