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CBR600f '96, sounds like a diesel

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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 26 Jul 2011    Post subject: CBR600f '96, sounds like a diesel Reply with quote

So i've got my CBR, been doing this for a while.

When it first starts it's fine, but when it's warm and i try to start it, it rattles like a diesel engine. horrible sound.

Am i right in thinking this is a common issue with them, and a manual cam chain tensioner will fix it?

Cheers

Dunc
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TUG
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 26 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cam chain rattle is common with these bikes Dunc, I would fit a manual if it bothers you a lot, I just ignore mine as I will be doing my clearances in 3000 miles I might aswell swap it for one then.

I just balanced the carbs on mine too as it was very fluffy, one of the carbs was out a bit compared to the others.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wait a god dam second!

no need to buy a manual CCT, the one you have is perfectly fine for the job aslong as you do the following.

take the cover bolt of the top of it,
get long bolt with the same thread
put 2 nuts on it
wind the bolt into the cct until you start to get a bit of resistance
give it a little bit more
start the bike
if you hear rattling wind it in slowly until it stops
lock it up using the 2 nuts you put on there earlier.

simples

getto made manual cct.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 01:32 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Wait a god dam second!

no need to buy a manual CCT, the one you have is perfectly fine for the job aslong as you do the following.

take the cover bolt of the top of it,
get long bolt with the same thread
put 2 nuts on it
wind the bolt into the cct until you start to get a bit of resistance
give it a little bit more
start the bike
if you hear rattling wind it in slowly until it stops
lock it up using the 2 nuts you put on there earlier.

simples

getto made manual cct.

Ah yes you can do this, or just remove the cover bolt, use a small flat screwdriver and turn it anti-clockwise (IIRC) to make it push onto the next tooth. That method you said is just a stopper mod, it will stop it returning should the spring fail but it wont really adjust the ratchet on the CCT.

EDIT: Please note, that I cannot remember if it is anti-clockwise, I have 2 CCTs I will check in the morning, PLEASE DO NOT TRY ADJUSTING THE CCT UNLESS 100% CERTAIN OR YOU WILL FUCK UP YOU'RE TIMING AND DAMAGE YOU'RE VALVES
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quality disclaimer Very Happy Thumbs Up
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TUG
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PostPosted: 01:49 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Quality disclaimer Very Happy Thumbs Up

Laughing I don't want to be resposable for someone letting their valves kiss pistons, better covering ass than swinging it about like I used to when I joined.

But yea, your method is to stop the plunger returning should the ratchets teeth be damaged and the spring break.

To be honest with you, the rattle is from the spring being weak and the longer you leave it the more damage is done to the ratchet tooth it is currently trying to adjust too, fitting a manual CCT means life long service and extremely low chance of failure.

Swapping a CCT is easy from memory with IL4s, you just strap down a T bar so the engine can't move after putting the Cylinder it is near on TDC, again I was taught this a while back when changing one on a CBR600RR so don't try it until you have researched that method.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:

Swapping a CCT is easy from memory with IL4s, you just strap down a T bar so the engine can't move after putting the Cylinder it is near on TDC, again I was taught this a while back when changing one on a CBR600RR so don't try it until you have researched that method.


wait what?

i never done any of that.

just make sure the bike is in gear when swapping it out and be gentle with it.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said, been a long long time since I was shown, I remember the bloke checking where the piston was with a screw driver through the plug hole, he might of put it in gear come to think of it but I can't remember 100% so wouldn't recommend trying it unless certain.

Always check that the timing is correct after playing with a CCT by rotating the engine by hand 3-5 times. Using the starter motor will bend valves if the timing has jumped.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't fit a manual one, thats just pointless. Why not fit a working automatic one.

Why make work for yourself? Especially when at least one member on here screwed up his engine by incorrect use of a manual camchain tensioner.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Don't fit a manual one, thats just pointless. Why not fit a working automatic one.

Why make work for yourself? Especially when at least one member on here screwed up his engine by incorrect use of a manual camchain tensioner.

Who was that? Manual ones don't fail and we all know how bad Honda are for their CCTs. Out of all the jap bikes I saw more CCTs get changed on Hondas when I was an apprentice.

I'd rather fit something that I know won't fail and will only need adjusting ever 12k miles in small increments wouldn't you?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
MarJay wrote:
Don't fit a manual one, thats just pointless. Why not fit a working automatic one.

Why make work for yourself? Especially when at least one member on here screwed up his engine by incorrect use of a manual camchain tensioner.

Who was that? Manual ones don't fail and we all know how bad Honda are for their CCTs. Out of all the jap bikes I saw more CCTs get changed on Hondas when I was an apprentice.

I'd rather fit something that I know won't fail and will only need adjusting ever 12k miles in small increments wouldn't you?


Its easier to fit a new one every 20k than it is to adjust one ever 12k, especially if there is the possibility of adjusting it wrong. As I recall the bloke who did it wrong had a Firestorm, but thats all I can remember.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manual one is being bought anyway, but i appreciate your concern Wink

It's my sunday toy, so it's not really getting much miles. i'm using the car for my commute and taking the bike on the odd sunny day.

I'd much rather have a manual one than the auto ones, since every bike i've had, the auto one has failed meaning a hell of a lot of work for me to fix it. i'd rather spend this and tighten it up every time i change the plugs, oil or filters.

Dunc
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TUG
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:


Its easier to fit a new one every 20k than it is to adjust one ever 12k, especially if there is the possibility of adjusting it wrong. As I recall the bloke who did it wrong had a Firestorm, but thats all I can remember.

Are you fucking serious? Laughing

So locking down the engine, removing old CCT, fitting new CCT, checking timing is easier than turning a bolt less than quater of a fucking turn? Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen camchain guides chewed up by over-adjusting a manual tensioner.

There is also a tendency to make them too tight when people fit them to mask the noise of a worn-out camchain, thinking that the tensioner is at fault when really it's the chain that needs replacing.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
I've seen camchain guides chewed up by over-adjusting a manual tensioner.

There is also a tendency to make them too tight when people fit them to mask the noise of a worn-out camchain, thinking that the tensioner is at fault when really it's the chain that needs replacing.


I've been told you tighten them by hand until nice and finger right then undo quarter of a turn, that's what the VTR lads do with theirs, is this correct?
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Ditto
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 21:43 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told CCT's rattle because they get blocked with oil on the CBR's.

All they need is a good clean with brake fluid.

Is there any truth in this?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ditto wrote:
I was told CCT's rattle because they get blocked with oil on the CBR's.

All they need is a good clean with brake fluid.

Is there any truth in this?

Don't see how, there are teeth on the shaft for the plunger, a ratchet on the outer casing and there is a spring inside the casing which pushes the plunger down.

Normally what happends is that the ratchet can't lock onto the next tooth because the spring hasn't given the plunger enough pressure and the constant movement wears down the tooth on the shaft. Thumbs Up
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Ditto
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 22:04 - 27 Jul 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read it on here innit:

https://www.personal.dundee.ac.uk/~bgfinlay/webpix/cbr600/2006-3.jpg

Ill leave this here though:

https://www.personal.dundee.ac.uk/~bgfinlay/cbr600.htm

Quite interesting to CBR owners, all the RiDE reports.
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The last post was made 14 years, 185 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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