2002 suzuki gs500e problem after oil change!

[subievf52]

New rider, bought a gs500e as a first bike. Love the bike, rides great pretty forgiving. Being as I just purchased the bike, I decided to give her an oil change, decided to go with castrol 10w40 part sythetic as suggested by motorcycle mechanic. So I change the oil, making sure not to fill to much or too low. Put in just about 3 quarts as specified by manufacturer. Dipstick shows perfectly on the full line. After doing so, the bike starts to behave improperly. I start her up, idles fine, then as I throttle as a stand still, it feels like the bike is stalling, then eventually dies. Then I can't start it. Having tried to start her a few more times I decide to wait 10 minutes. After doing so she starts up again, so I figure it's a fluke decide to ride down the street and a few minutes later as I'm giving more gas she dies while I'm riding. After dying and I pull over, won't start again. So I repeat the cycle of waiting 10 minutes and starts right up again. I manage to make it back between riding a bit and pushing it.

So a few things seem irregular. Letting the bike sit for 10minutes seems to allow it to start again. Giving throttle seems to be stalling the bike and causing it to die. After a few minutes of running the bike can't hold idle of 1200rpms and dies by itself. Choke doesn't seem to help keep the bike running while idling. So I'm starting to suspect some fuel issues, maybe carb. Though what are the chances something else goes wrong right as I change my oil? I checked the oil filter again it's really hard to mess up installing one on this bike. Any ideas?

I'm probably going to change plugs and air filter this weekend. Let me know if anyone else has experienced anything like this. Thanks ahead of time.

[weasley]

Could be a carb issue - float height or similar.
Could be a trapped or blocked fuel tank vent hose (try opening the tank when it dies and see if it'll run).
Have you got fuel in it?!
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[P.]

Your fuel tap, what is it set to.

Try setting to PRI... My GS had a dodgy tap and ran on PRI perfectly

[yen_powell]

I'm not being funny, I have seen this before, but you did check the oil level with the bike upright and not on the centerstand and so overfilled it by a large amount?
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[chris-red]

[chris-red]

IIRC you can put the oil filter in the wrong way which will block oil flow.
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[P.]

[chris-red]

Mine was always fine for the first 10 miles then it would have a moan + it never affected the bike on idle.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Did you JUST change the oil or did you fiddle with anything else? You have turned off the choke?

An engine that runs for a while once left to stand suggests a problem with fuel supply. Possibly a blocked fuel tank breather, possibly blocked fuel filter and possible kinked fuel pipe. 1st and last could be caused by taking the tank on and off.

If you did nothing else then I would check the oil level (bike upright as already mentioned) and also the air filter housing (over fill the oil and it will likely push a load into the airbox, making a mess of the filter), although I would expect this to not "fix" itself after being parked up for a short while.

All the best

Keith
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[molex]

3 quarts = ??? liters

Maybe read the Owner manual :

https://www.scribd.com/doc/36239601/GS500-F-09-OM


"Dipstick shows perfectly on the full line" ???

My experience is "in between the line" I mean "half" between the line.

[subievf52]

First of all, thanks for all the replies. Some clarification on how I did my oil change. The owners manual called for 3 quarts. I bought 4. I started by draining then putting in 2.75 quarts. Started bike, let run for a couple minutes shut down and wait 5 min or so and check oil with bike on center stand. If oil was short of full line I would add a little more and repeat until oil at full line. I used just about all 3 quarts.

Oil filter, the thing only has a hole on one side, it has a bypass on there other. It's held in by a spring on the oil filter compartment cover. I did take that apart and double check the filter, pretty hard to mess up here. I will try PRI this weekend and see if that makes a difference. Have not tried riding it with choke on. When it doesn't start, choke level does seem to affect it.

I was thinking if air filter is clogged and bike is running rich, could that cause this issue? I heard a couple pops from exhaust when trying to get it to run right.

[Rogerborg]

Sounds like you did the change fine, but does your manual really specify "quarts"? For realsies? Note that US quarts and Imperial aren't the same, and neither is exactly 1 litre.

The problem does sound like fuelling. How are your plugs looking?
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[stinkwheel]

There are three ways I can think of that this could be related to the oil change itself. The forst two of them are unlikely given that the bike restarts and runs again. The third is a more realistic possability.

1) Overfilled by so much it's causing a hydraulic lock in the engine. This would usually cause severe to catastrophic engine damage.

2) Oil not circulating causing seizure of componants. Oil pressure light would normally stay on in this case.

3) Overfilled by a little causing excess oil to be forced out of the crankcase breather into the airbox, choking the air filter and restricting the airflow to the engine. A look at the air filter would tell you immediately if this was the case.

All that said, I agree with others, it sounds like a fuel starvation issue either down to a blockage in the fuel line somewhere or a trapped fuel tank breather. Eliminate the latter by riding with the fuel cap open or listening for a hiss of air when you open the fuel cap when it's just conked out.
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[subievf52]

So an update, took out old plugs, gapped the new plugs and put them in. No change. Tried running with gas cap open and no change. Tried running off reserve and no change. Took the air filter out, looked a little dirty but not terrible, don't think oil spilled into the filter. Either way, I ran the bike without a filter completely and no change.

The part that confuses me the most is sometimes I start it and it runs like a champ, throttle is great, idle is great... then I take it down the street and it dies.

Other times I can barely get it started and when I do, the RPM's DROP as I give throttle and the bike is stalling.

Right now I'm thinking about getting some carb cleaner to run through the bike, if that doesn't do anything then carb removal, rebuild and clean time???

What do you guys think?

[temeluchus]

[subievf52]

So I ran the bike on PRI, and it runs like a dream. I think I'm one step closer to figuring out the problem here. If it runs great on PRI and not on ON, then something is clogging my fuel line/vacuum?

[hmmmnz]

or your vacum link is kinked or has a split, or its popped of the carb top or fuel tap,
don't leave the bike in prime when you turn off the bike,
gs's are notorious for hydro-locking the floats never seem to quite seal off properly
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[temeluchus]

[subievf52]

I followed the vacuum line from the petcock to the carb, doesn't seem to be restricted, kinked, or off. I was even able to get it running in ON for a little while, and while it was I pinched the vacuum line as hard as I could while giving throttle and it didn't seem to have any effect.

I'm starting to suspect something is wrong with my fuel valve.

At this point, could there still be something wrong with my carbs? There's two fuel lines from my gas tank to the petcock, then one line from the petcock to the carbs. If the same fuel line is used for PRI and ON to the carb, wouldn't that mean I need to look at the petcock on back? Or by using vacuum, does the fuel route through a different path inside the carb versus PRI which is gravity operated.

[hmmmnz]

the tap on the under side of the tank with the 2 hoses is the
on and reserve hoses, they both go to the main fuel tap,
from there it is just the 1 hose to the carbs
+ 1 smaller vacum hose that controls the little diaphragm inside the main tap,

if your bike is running fine on prime,
then it can be only 1 of a few things,
1 the vacum line, blocked,cut, or kinked
2 the diagram inside the tap, is blocked or nicked stopping it from "pulsing" thus stopping the fuel from flowing
3, the vacum nipple on the carb is blocked or the carb top has an air leak and isn't sending the pulsing vacume to the main fuel tap,

pull the vacum line off the tap, and pop your finger over the end of the hose with the bike running,
if you can feel the hose sucking to your finger, then its the fuel tap diaphram that is the problem, if you can't then its the carb or vacum hose that is the problem,
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the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[Kickstart]

[R6 Wilson]

Give your carb a decent cleaning
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[hmmmnz]