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Peugeot speedfight 2 starting problems

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gsac44
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Peugeot speedfight 2 starting problems Reply with quote

my kick start works fine but has just lost its last legs and no longer works as its in need of a new shaft so that leaves me with the electric start, which i recently fixed by replacing the solenoid. now when i try to start it there is a heavy smell of petrol and it just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. it would only start if i connected a battery charger whilst starting, so i bought a new battery now it wont start at all. my guess is that its being flooded with petrol but why? why wont it start? the spark plug gives off a spark, my battery is brand new, i dont think there is an electrical problem and my starter motor works fine so what else could it be? the bike stinks of petrol every time i try to start it and the odd time when it did previously start, it was very smoky and smelt of petrol all the time. iv cleaned all my jets and the inside of my carb so i really dont know what else to do. [04 plate 50cc air cooled pug speedfight 2 furious]
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds to me like a stuck float in the bottom of the carb, did you check the spring and needle that control the float hight whilst you had the carb appart?
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

tbh i dont really know all that much about bikes, its my first bike, im a car man usually. i had the springs and needles out yes they looked very clean and normal and i put them back in (do they need to go in a specific way? they fitted alright) what can i do to sort the float out? it swung on its hinge freely enough when i had it apart?? didnt seem to be broken or seized in any way...
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i tried to test my ht lead to see if it was supplying enough power. i put my voltmeter to 20v DC and placed the red pin inside the ht lead and the black pin on my earth point on my battery. it read 0.45 when i tried to electric start my bike. does this sound correct?
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

seems very low for the current your coil/ht should be giving out, when you test the spark how bright is it? is it a nice bright blue colour?

in reguards the the float if youve had it all to bits you may have set the float height needle at the wrong hight or its possible that when its opening its getting stuck and staying open

do you get excess fuel coming from the overflow when you try to start the bike?
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

in regards to the spark, i have to squint to see it and sometimes it doesnt even spark. and no there is no fuel leaking our (where is the overflow?) but it STINKS of petrol.
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

the overflow is located on the base of the float bolw, there should be a rubber pipe on it but more often than not on mopeds they dont have them

in relation to the weak spark, unscrew the ht cap from the ht lead, trim back the ht lead by about 5-10mm, just enough to get rid of where the screw in thread has damaged the copper wire, spray som e contact cleaner ito the thread in the ht cap, clean it out with a small screwdriver or a pick, screw the ht cap back onto the lead and retest the spark

i advise to do this as sometimes water can get underneath the ht cap and can make both the screw thread and the copper wire of the ht lead to deteriate and corrode
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes it looks like it used to have a pipe coming off it but its been snapped off. the screw is fully tightened so no fuel can get out of it. should i have the screw open a bit? and the ht cap does not unscrew off the lead Confused
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh yes it does, was just very seized and dirty. hard to get off. ill try it and get back to you, thanks
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ht cap should undo mate it should unscrew off of the lead, try holding the lead in pliers etc so it dosent spin

Fuel should still leak out of the overflow if its backing up, the one with the screw is the drain screw and pipe, so the overflow may caome out of the carb slightly higher

If you undo the bleed screw you should only get a small ammount of fuel come out of it as the float should be shut and shouldnt allow the bowl to refill, if you get a constant flowing stream of fuel for anymore than about 5-10 seconds I would deffinately say its a stuck, as its letting fuel constantly come through, explaining the constant flooding of the engine and the stench of fuel when you turn over the engine with the starter
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

trimmed back the ht lead, made no difference. fuel does just keep coming and coming when i unscrew the bleed screw, so i guess its like you say. dodgy float. what can i do to rectify the problem mate?
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

completly strip clean and reset the carb making sure the the needle is in correct and the sring is not caught or twisted etc
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

by reset do you mean adjust the air and fuel screws? i have no idea how they should be in that case...
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes everything needs to be as it appears in the workshop manual, if you have a look in the manuals thread you should be able to find a downloadable manual to follow Smile
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

iv had a look cant find anything, dont suppose you know where the manual is that would include that information?
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=140295

then just download the one relevant to your engine
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah done that, nothing found. :/ ahh well guess ill just have to guess if i cant find it lol. do you know the rough ratio for air fuel? isit 50/50? 60/40?
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

the carb setups are included in them arent they? and no where near its normally 14:1 or 12:1 on 2t 125s but not sure at all what it would be on a speedfight sorry
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gsac44
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

is tht 14 parts fuel to 1 part air or the other way round? and no their not included in these manuals from what i can see. sorry for being so dumb lol iv just tried pretty much everything and im close to slapping this puece of sh*t on gumtree Twisted Evil
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont put it on gumtree just bite the bullet and get a haynes manual buddy there well worth it, and when your done with it then you can sell it on

ive got a mate with one but it only covers the LC models :/

If you come to sell it let me know before you list it anywhere
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikey CB500 wrote:
the carb setups are included in them arent they? and no where near its normally 14:1 or 12:1 on 2t 125s but not sure at all what it would be on a speedfight sorry


I assume you are attempting to quote Air/fuel ratio ?

How exactly is the chap meant to measure it without a gas analyser?
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Mikey CB500
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 09 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

He asked for the fuel ratio so thats what I gave him, just as I said I dont know the exact figure for a aircooled speedfight
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