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| BigGeeking |
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 BigGeeking Scooby Slapper

Joined: 07 Jun 2011 Karma :  
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 Posted: 11:22 - 09 Aug 2011 Post subject: welding sprocket on **pic added*** |
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Right guys
Look like I have some ware on my drive shaft splines going to my front sprocket
Its only a cg125 that I paid less than 500 for I had a look in to a new counter shaft and gaskets ect ect and its just too much.
I’m going to keep the bike till its dead or for another 2 years till I am not under the 33bhp licence.
Its about half way throw the splines don’t know how long its been like that for as its 10th hand
Or something stupid like that
Any way I was going to weld it on I have a arc welder and I was going to keep the locking plate on and weld it on keeping it strait as pos
And it has new chain and sprockets on that’s how I found out the shaft is getting goosed.
Any ideas.
 ____________________ Bendy "Flip front. I can filter down the M4 while shoving a Twix in my face."
honda CG 125 2001 SOLD-- current Bandit 400--SOLD. current SV650s 2000
MOD 1 ON 20/7/2011**passed** MOD 2 ON 17/10/2011***passed***,,
Last edited by BigGeeking on 22:08 - 11 Aug 2011; edited 1 time in total |
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| jimbothe |
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 jimbothe World Chat Champion

Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:53 - 09 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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I wouldn't weld it. I think you're asking for more trouble. Welding creates heat, a LOT of it. You will melt any seals nearby or connected to the shaft and probably end up with some bad leaks.
Can you post a picture?
If it's that bad that you have to try and weld it on straight then I would say it's very badly worn
Can you not try cleaning up the splines with a small file? ____________________ Check out our tackle shop on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/#!/JklTackle |
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| thomp1983 |
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 thomp1983 Crazy Courier

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| BigGeeking |
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 BigGeeking Scooby Slapper

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| BigGeeking |
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 BigGeeking Scooby Slapper

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| jimbothe |
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 jimbothe World Chat Champion

Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:25 - 09 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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I mean check the splines on the shaft and try and file lightly in-between the splines if there is any burring of the splines.
This thread is pretty hard to comment on without a picture. If you do get the chance then post back with one if you can as we could all be giving the wrong advice based on a lack of visual knowledge.
I fail to see how the spline has worn away on a 125 unless the sprocket was incorrectly fitted or the wrong one. ____________________ Check out our tackle shop on Facebook:
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| chrisjpartrid... |
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 chrisjpartrid... Two Stroke Sniffer
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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 03:56 - 11 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Splines wear from neglected chains. Particles of metal from the chain get into the splines and act like grinding paste.
You have your new sprocket, and it fits on the spline. Okay so it might be loose but that's not a huge problem. Have no doubt it will have to be very very worn to shear off the last bit of spline so that the sprocket is rotating.
Does the reatiner still work? If so I would grease the spline up, fit the sprocket and forget about it. The grease will reduce the wear rate hugely. If the retainer is not working due to the wear I would fit the sprocket on the shaft, then put a large washer over the spline then lightly weld the washer to the spline but NOT weld the sprocket itself to the spline at all. All you need is a couple of small tacks such as can be removed with a grinder for changing the sprocket later if ever needs be. Then whilest it's hot get some grease on it so that it runs into the spline. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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| cb1rocket |
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 cb1rocket World Chat Champion
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 11:02 - 11 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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THE PROBLEM... as described sounds like culmulative effect of poor chain care and hard life. Tight chain, slack chain, lots of load changing clumsy changes, poor cleaning, lack of lube etc.
Sprocket, the bit that wears is 'soft' steel, shaft is hardened steel, so NORMALLY sprocket would take the knocks and splines on shaft would survive OK.
So I'm with others on this one.
Sprocket isn't rigidly bolted or welded to the shaft for a reason.
some 'play' is there to help the sprocket & chain 'self align'.
Attaching it rigidly to the shaft, it would have to be aligned MORE accurately than thee designer COULDN'T get it to rear sprocket, and would have to be realigned every time you adjusted the chain tension, or you would have problem of misalignment increasing chain / sprocket wear.
First up; given soft sprox, hard shaft, IS the shaft REALLY that bad?
Next up; whats the oragin of the 'new' sprox? are thy chap chitty things with lots of slop to start with?
Real 'fix', IF its the shaft is to make that bit 'good'.
Most obviouse 'propper' fix would b to pull motor apart, split cases and replace output shaft. Its a CG.... scary BUT its NOT actually THAT hard to do.
But whats cost/avail of new or good second hand shaft?
If inordinatly expensive or unavailable; old fassioned salvage would be to 'rebuild' the splins on shaft you have.....
Couple of M/C shop ways to do that, on would be to turn down the splined section of shaft in a lathe, then shrink fit a new splined sleeve over it.
Altrnatively, splined section could be 'welded over' then the splines re-cut into the new metal.
BUT.... onto bodges... a 'bodge' is any 'improvisd repair' that cost more or makes more work than doing it properly to begin with....
So, improvised repair.... Cable ties pushed through gaps in sprok to take up clerance? Glue? What do you thing is more or less likely to work well?
But getting CANNY.... my reccomend, as you already SUGGEST moving sprox furhther inboard on shaft would find good spline...
CG sprox are £5 a piece... if you dont have the old one, or its splines are 'duff'.....
Angry grinder... grind it down to remove teeth, to leave you splined disc. take it a good 2mm or more smaller than the bottom of the valleys between teeth...
Now, slide THAT onto shaft behind sprok.... to make 'wide' base sprok, joining disc and sprok together.
If you WANT and can do it accuratly nough, could weld disc and sprok togethr, but I'd simply drill the retainer plat scrw holes 'through' the toothd sprok, then use long bolts to sandwich toothed sprok between retainer plat and ground down sprok.
No welding..... no melted seals..... no engine strip... no bodges..... one £5 sprokt and two 10p M6 scrws TOPS....... job jobbed, neatly, and reliably..... AND you could still change sprokets AND retain the self alignment 'wobble' etc.....
Worth a shot before reaching for the stick metal sticker? ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

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 CarlosCBR World Chat Champion

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 Pete. Super Spammer

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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :  
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 Posted: 17:33 - 11 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | THE PROBLEM... as described sounds like culmulative effect of poor chain care and hard life. Tight chain, slack chain, lots of load changing clumsy changes, poor cleaning, lack of lube etc.
Sprocket, the bit that wears is 'soft' steel, shaft is hardened steel, so NORMALLY sprocket would take the knocks and splines on shaft would survive OK.
So I'm with others on this one.
Sprocket isn't rigidly bolted or welded to the shaft for a reason.
some 'play' is there to help the sprocket & chain 'self align'.
Attaching it rigidly to the shaft, it would have to be aligned MORE accurately than thee designer COULDN'T get it to rear sprocket, and would have to be realigned every time you adjusted the chain tension, or you would have problem of misalignment increasing chain / sprocket wear.
First up; given soft sprox, hard shaft, IS the shaft REALLY that bad?
Next up; whats the oragin of the 'new' sprox? are thy chap chitty things with lots of slop to start with?
Real 'fix', IF its the shaft is to make that bit 'good'.
Most obviouse 'propper' fix would b to pull motor apart, split cases and replace output shaft. Its a CG.... scary BUT its NOT actually THAT hard to do.
But whats cost/avail of new or good second hand shaft?
If inordinatly expensive or unavailable; old fassioned salvage would be to 'rebuild' the splins on shaft you have.....
Couple of M/C shop ways to do that, on would be to turn down the splined section of shaft in a lathe, then shrink fit a new splined sleeve over it.
Altrnatively, splined section could be 'welded over' then the splines re-cut into the new metal.
BUT.... onto bodges... a 'bodge' is any 'improvisd repair' that cost more or makes more work than doing it properly to begin with....
So, improvised repair.... Cable ties pushed through gaps in sprok to take up clerance? Glue? What do you thing is more or less likely to work well?
But getting CANNY.... my reccomend, as you already SUGGEST moving sprox furhther inboard on shaft would find good spline...
CG sprox are £5 a piece... if you dont have the old one, or its splines are 'duff'.....
Angry grinder... grind it down to remove teeth, to leave you splined disc. take it a good 2mm or more smaller than the bottom of the valleys between teeth...
Now, slide THAT onto shaft behind sprok.... to make 'wide' base sprok, joining disc and sprok together.
If you WANT and can do it accuratly nough, could weld disc and sprok togethr, but I'd simply drill the retainer plat scrw holes 'through' the toothd sprok, then use long bolts to sandwich toothed sprok between retainer plat and ground down sprok.
No welding..... no melted seals..... no engine strip... no bodges..... one £5 sprokt and two 10p M6 scrws TOPS....... job jobbed, neatly, and reliably..... AND you could still change sprokets AND retain the self alignment 'wobble' etc.....
Worth a shot before reaching for the stick metal sticker? |
Find & replace '\n' with '', '....' with '', '...' with ''
Convert all -> lower case
Spellcheck.
| Quote: | The problem as described sounds like cumulative effect of poor chain care and hard life. tight chain, slack chain, lots of load changing clumsy changes, poor cleaning, lack of lube etc. sprocket, the bit that wears is 'soft' steel, shaft is hardened steel, so normally sprocket would take the knocks and splines on shaft would survive ok. so I'm with others on this one. sprocket isn't rigidly bolted or welded to the shaft for a reason. some 'play' is there to help the sprocket & chain 'self align'. attaching it rigidly to the shaft, it would have to be aligned more accurately than thee designer couldn't get it to rear sprocket, and would have to be realigned every time you adjusted the chain tension, or you would have problem of misalignment increasing chain / sprocket wear. first up; given soft sprocket, hard shaft, is the shaft really that bad? next up; what’s the origin of the 'new' sprocket? are thy chap chitty things with lots of slop to start with? real 'fix', if its the shaft is to make that bit 'good'. most obvious 'proper' fix would b to pull motor apart, split cases and replace output shaft. its a cg scary but its not actually that hard to do. but what’s cost/avail of new or good second hand shaft? if inordinately expensive or unavailable; old fashioned salvage would be to 'rebuild' the splines on shaft you have. couple of m/c shop ways to do that, on would be to turn down the splined section of shaft in a lathe, then shrink fit a new splined sleeve over it. alternatively, splined section could be 'welded over' then the splines re-cut into the new metal. but onto bodges a 'bodge' is any 'improvised repair' that cost more or makes more work than doing it properly to begin with so, improvised repair cable ties pushed through gaps in sprocket to take up clearance? glue? what do you thing is more or less likely to work well? but getting canny my recommend, as you already suggest moving sprocket further inboard on shaft would find good spline cg sprockets are £5 a piece if you don’t have the old one, or its splines are 'duff'. angry grinder grind it down to remove teeth, to leave you splined disc. take it a good 2mm or more smaller than the bottom of the valleys between teeth now, slide that onto shaft behind sprocket to make 'wide' base sprocket, joining disc and sprocket together. if you want and can do it accurately enough, could weld disc and sprocket together, but i'd simply drill the retainer plat screw holes 'through' the toothed sprocket, then use long bolts to sandwich toothed sprockets between retainer plat and ground down sprocket. no welding. no melted seals. no engine strip no bodges. one £5 sprockets and two 10p m6 screws tops job jobbed, neatly, and reliably. and you could still change sprockets and retain the self alignment 'wobble' etc. worth a shot before reaching for the stick metal sticker? |
I managed to read my first teflon mike post! Good stuff. Now i just need to write a script to automatically do that on page load  |
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| iooi |
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 iooi Super Spammer

Joined: 14 Jan 2007 Karma :    
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 Posted: 18:26 - 11 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Ever heard of paragraph's
| Frost wrote: | The problem as described sounds like cumulative effect of poor chain care and hard life. tight chain, slack chain, lots of load changing clumsy changes, poor cleaning, lack of lube etc. sprocket, the bit that wears is 'soft' steel, shaft is hardened steel, so normally sprocket would take the knocks and splines on shaft would survive ok. so I'm with others on this one. sprocket isn't rigidly bolted or welded to the shaft for a reason. some 'play' is there to help the sprocket & chain 'self align'. attaching it rigidly to the shaft, it would have to be aligned more accurately than thee designer couldn't get it to rear sprocket, and would have to be realigned every time you adjusted the chain tension, or you would have problem of misalignment increasing chain / sprocket wear. first up; given soft sprocket, hard shaft, is the shaft really that bad? next up; what’s the origin of the 'new' sprocket? are thy chap chitty things with lots of slop to start with? real 'fix', if its the shaft is to make that bit 'good'. most obvious 'proper' fix would b to pull motor apart, split cases and replace output shaft. its a cg scary but its not actually that hard to do. but what’s cost/avail of new or good second hand shaft? if inordinately expensive or unavailable; old fashioned salvage would be to 'rebuild' the splines on shaft you have. couple of m/c shop ways to do that, on would be to turn down the splined section of shaft in a lathe, then shrink fit a new splined sleeve over it. alternatively, splined section could be 'welded over' then the splines re-cut into the new metal. but onto bodges a 'bodge' is any 'improvised repair' that cost more or makes more work than doing it properly to begin with so, improvised repair cable ties pushed through gaps in sprocket to take up clearance? glue? what do you thing is more or less likely to work well? but getting canny my recommend, as you already suggest moving sprocket further inboard on shaft would find good spline cg sprockets are £5 a piece if you don’t have the old one, or its splines are 'duff'. angry grinder grind it down to remove teeth, to leave you splined disc. take it a good 2mm or more smaller than the bottom of the valleys between teeth now, slide that onto shaft behind sprocket to make 'wide' base sprocket, joining disc and sprocket together. if you want and can do it accurately enough, could weld disc and sprocket together, but i'd simply drill the retainer plat screw holes 'through' the toothed sprocket, then use long bolts to sandwich toothed sprockets between retainer plat and ground down sprocket. no welding. no melted seals. no engine strip no bodges. one £5 sprockets and two 10p m6 screws tops job jobbed, neatly, and reliably. and you could still change sprockets and retain the self alignment 'wobble' etc. worth a shot before reaching for the stick metal sticker?
I managed to read my first teflon mike post! Good stuff. Now i just need to write a script to automatically do that on page load  |
____________________ Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am...... |
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| BigGeeking |
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 BigGeeking Scooby Slapper

Joined: 07 Jun 2011 Karma :  
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 Posted: 19:26 - 11 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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thanks for all the replayed peeps as soon as i get a link lead for the cam i'll post a pick.
i hope it is normal but i cant see it  ____________________ Bendy "Flip front. I can filter down the M4 while shoving a Twix in my face."
honda CG 125 2001 SOLD-- current Bandit 400--SOLD. current SV650s 2000
MOD 1 ON 20/7/2011**passed** MOD 2 ON 17/10/2011***passed***,, |
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| SoND |
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 SoND World Chat Champion

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| BigGeeking |
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 BigGeeking Scooby Slapper

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 SoND World Chat Champion

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| Vincent |
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 Vincent Banned

Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:34 - 12 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Sorry mate, that shaft needs replacing. Might be the result of someone trying to wheelie by dropping the clutch - over and over. ____________________ Space Is Deep |
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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 08:47 - 12 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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It's pretty worn but I'd fit the sprocket and ride it. Use grease. It'll be moving about but if it's greased the wear will be low. no point speculating how long it will last, all you can do is give it a few days and check, then if it's no worse check again weekly. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

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 Posted: 10:25 - 12 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Not a bad idea but I think that torque reversal would soon see RTV off. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 157 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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