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Manual camchain tensioners

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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 13 Aug 2011    Post subject: Manual camchain tensioners Reply with quote

I think I need a new camchain tensioner for my ZX6R as it's got a little rattly of late. The oe automatic ones are pretty expensive but I think I can get a manual one for a bit less and I hear they're a better option anyway; is that true?

Also, does anyone else make them apart from Ape? They don't seem to be easy to find, even on Ebay there's only one listing...
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 13 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

have a look here
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 13 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Debben Performance. Thumbs Up
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 13 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks chaps, I'll have a look at those links Thumbs Up
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 01:34 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose it comes down to can you actually set one up so it doesn't kill a main bearing or jump a tooth and keep up with adjusting it?
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 06:53 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make your own. Drill and tap a thread in the CCT body and use a bolt/locking nut, cost... pence. Turn the bolt BY HAND until resistance is felt then lock it up. No more failures.
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Ditto
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 10:34 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
Make your own. Drill and tap a thread in the CCT body and use a bolt/locking nut, cost... pence. Turn the bolt BY HAND until resistance is felt then lock it up. No more failures.


That's a good idea. Save £35 so you can then spend several grand fixing the engine when it fails, the cam chain becomes slack, messes up the timing and smashes up all the valves Rolling Eyes
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
I suppose it comes down to can you actually set one up so it doesn't kill a main bearing or jump a tooth and keep up with adjusting it?


Are they hard to set up? I thought it would be fairly simple. Forgetting to keep on top of it though is a worry but it's mainly a track bike and doesn't do a lot of miles so the ratio of maintenance to use is a lot higher if you see what I mean Laughing
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

T0MMY wrote:
Are they hard to set up? I thought it would be fairly simple. Forgetting to keep on top of it though is a worry but it's mainly a track bike and doesn't do a lot of miles so the ratio of maintenance to use is a lot higher if you see what I mean Laughing


Piece of piss to set up as long as you are fine taking the rocker cover off and everything else needed to get to that point. Then fit it so theres about 1/4 play between the cam sprockets and adjust every 1000 miles.
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 17:30 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that necessary? I thought you just did it up 'til tension is felt then backed it out a bit...or is that the dangerously lazy way?
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've got an APE one sitting on my shelf that may fit, gimme some measurements and i'll check for you.

Dunc
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ditto. Do you work for Kawasaki/Honda/ Yamaha by any chance?
You stand far more chance of failure by repeating the mistake of fitting the piss poor engineering that goes into the average auto cam chain adjuster.
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Dunkable wrote:
i've got an APE one sitting on my shelf that may fit, gimme some measurements and i'll check for you.

Dunc


What bike is it for?
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

T0MMY wrote:
Mr Dunkable wrote:
i've got an APE one sitting on my shelf that may fit, gimme some measurements and i'll check for you.

Dunc


What bike is it for?


I can't actually remember what one i bought it for, it was either the TT600, GSX600f or CBR600f...

Not sure if it'll fit or not, but worth a shot.

Dunc
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tatters
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I,ve got a bran new boxed kawasakai one you can have for £10, not sure what model of ZX6 its from so do you know the part number of your one?
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just adjusted mine when it started ticking until it was quiet. Engine never blew up.
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Ditto
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 21:35 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
Hi Ditto. Do you work for Kawasaki/Honda/ Yamaha by any chance?
You stand far more chance of failure by repeating the mistake of fitting the piss poor engineering that goes into the average auto cam chain adjuster.


The OEM ones are shite, but its not worth saving £35 for the sake of bodging a CCT for what is such a crucial part of the running of the bike.
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's for a 1999 G2 model, I think the part number for an OE automagic one is 12048-1143 but I think many are interchangeable, certainly between the F and G models.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bodge is putting plastic metal on a holed sump. An engineering solution is making a crap (and expensive) part work properly.
Back in the '60's, ALL camchain tensioners were manual, no failures. Nowadays, every other post is about 'a funny rattling noise'. My CCT modifications will outlast the bike, stock CCT's will fail every 20000 miles, usually sooner if its a Firestorm.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 02:50 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
A bodge is putting plastic metal on a holed sump. An engineering solution is making a crap (and expensive) part work properly.
Back in the '60's, ALL camchain tensioners were manual, no failures. Nowadays, every other post is about 'a funny rattling noise'. My CCT modifications will outlast the bike, stock CCT's will fail every 20000 miles, usually sooner if its a Firestorm.


How many bikes revved to 13000rpm in the 60's?
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 09:06 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most small Hondas were in the 10-12000 rpm range. Most Honda racers went anywhere from 12-18000 rpm.
High rpm isnt the problem. CCT's are at their most vulnerable at low engine speed when the pulses of valve spring opening are at low frequency. This is what 'jars' the tensioner, causing the movable part to back off if/when the tensioning spring fails.
So, why would tapping and threading the original CCT body be a 'bodge' when you will happily pay for exactly the same thing as long as its anodised in pretty colour?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
Most small Hondas were in the 10-12000 rpm range. Most Honda racers went anywhere from 12-18000 rpm.
High rpm isnt the problem. CCT's are at their most vulnerable at low engine speed when the pulses of valve spring opening are at low frequency. This is what 'jars' the tensioner, causing the movable part to back off if/when the tensioning spring fails.


So basically no road bikes then. I would suggest this and many bikes being pushrod rather than chain driven is probably why there were few CCT failures.
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The last post was made 14 years, 235 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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