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 motoxmagician Derestricted Danger
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| Ariel Badger |
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 Ariel Badger Super Spammer

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| motoxmagician |
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 motoxmagician Derestricted Danger
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| Ariel Badger |
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 Ariel Badger Super Spammer

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| Frost |
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 Frost World Chat Champion

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| motoxmagician |
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 motoxmagician Derestricted Danger
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| Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :   
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 Posted: 06:24 - 19 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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You've done most of the fault finding and eliminated most of the potential problems, which makes this a bit easier. I can think of a couple of possibilities. I doubt that its a carb problem if it was previously behaving on the current carb setting, and is idling fine. If a carb is blocked or has water in then the idle and closed throttle running is usually the first thing to suffer.
1. Power valve. Are are where you're having trouble is where the power valve operation allows the engine to make power. The power valve position and condition is as important as the carb slide position and condition in allowing a highly tuned 2 stroke to develop power. You said that it was damaged, expand on this. If it is chipped or out of position then you'll get poor running. The expansion chamber and power valve are critical in a 2 stroke running correctly, if they aren't working correctly then you're either sucking all of the mixture out of the cylinder giving you no power, or you're pushing too much exhaust gas back into the cylinder also giving you no power.
2. Coked up exhaust. I don't think you mentioned de-coking the exhaust in your maintenance. If a 2 stroke isn't thrashed then the exhaust will coke up. If you recently rebuilt it then ran it in it will have coked up. Thrashing it a lot will help, but given your clear preference for fixing it properly, a decoke with a wire brush and/or caustic soda is the way forward. If it has an aluminium alloy end can then keep the caustic away from this, you need to decoke the expansion chamber an the baffle (if fitted).
I would also run some fuel system cleaner through the system, just for peace of mind. I have never had good result from redex, can be a good way to make a lot of smoke when you add it directly through the air intake (along with clogging your exhaust, blew a car exhaust wide open this way). Wynn's total fuel system cleaner has worked for me on the car, improving the fuel burn by 25%. Costs about £15 in Halfords. Single bottle treatment, seeing as you have a small fuel tank you should only need to use half the bottle or less with a full tank.
Also, the 5500rpm stutter is common and can be fixed by cutting a wire somewhere - search in this forum and you'll find which one.
For an outside possibility, corrosion on wiring is a possibility. The bike is 13 years old, so corrosion on connectors is a possibility. The (tedious) fix is to go over the whole bike, undoing connectors, cleaning back to clean bright metal with emery paper, and reassembling with a very light smear or vaseline or copper grease to slow further corrosion. I have had impressive results doing this on 30 year old bikes. |
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| Dr. Quack |
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 Dr. Quack Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 17 Mar 2011 Karma :     
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 Posted: 06:32 - 19 Aug 2011 Post subject: |
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Yeah if it's not the jetting in the carb (Look up what jets and needle setting for the exaust you are using)
It will be:
Barrel re-hone and a 1/10th milli over sized piston kit.
When you say checked barel did you use a micrometre?
Did you move the piston from side to side whilst in the cyclinder because two stroke wear down the exaust port side, you need to check for piston slap. If it's not too bad you will probably need a rehone and a 10th milli over sized piston kit. Rehones are cheap like £20 to £30
These are really good. https://www.pjme.co.uk/
Speak to the engineer he will help. |
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| motoxmagician |
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 motoxmagician Derestricted Danger
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 155 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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