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Sorry people - What 125cc?

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PiaggioNRG
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 02 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 23 Aug 2011    Post subject: Sorry people - What 125cc? Reply with quote

Hello everyone,
I am gonna ask the most boring question, what 125cc?

I am not too bothered about looks. Price range is between 400 and 1200 pound. I am happy for a project as my previous bike have been successful projects. I am quite short. I have been looking at CBR's but they are far too expensive for something I am gonna slide down the road. I was thinking of a YBR but I cant find any cheap enough. What would others suggest?
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Beelzebob
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 23 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's YBRs around for that sort of money, depends where you are I guess. I sold my YBR for 1300 and that was an 09 model, relatively low miles... they go back to 2005 ish (I think) so a higher mileage and or older one should go for less.

Otherwise - CG125, the equivalent Honda pretty much. Or anything else that's 125 and cheap.

Cue the 'don't buy Chinese' posts too...
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trippz
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 23 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before i would have said an RS125 as i used to be.... well i will leave that to your imagination but it has to be a RD125 MK3 fully restored <3
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Germ
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PostPosted: 01:05 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought LC125's weren't allowed on the road nowadays?Coulda sworn someone told me they just can't meet emissions tests no matter what you do to them or some such thing.

I could easily be wrong though or misled by arsehole mates Wink
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 01:46 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Germ wrote:
I thought LC125's weren't allowed on the road nowadays?Coulda sworn someone told me they just can't meet emissions tests no matter what you do to them or some such thing.

I could easily be wrong though or misled by arsehole mates Wink


Motorcycles don't get tested on emissions.

Hence why a motorcycle can pass it's MOT without the engine even working.
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Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 52k.
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deleted111
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PostPosted: 08:56 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for the CG125. But I'm bound to be biased Razz
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you want it for?

Cheap 125's are rare... 'good' cheap ones like unicorns eggs!

'Project' Bikes.... often a fools errand.

Look at Snowie's Pup project... Yeah! we DID it..... BUT.... Same with my Corporal. BUT BUT.

If you want a 125... 'cheap' to get tests on, buy one, put up with whatever you get, get rid as soon as.

Meanwhile, use whatever you can filch from the pot to find 'big bike' pocket money project, for when you have licence; better bikes; more choice; lower prices, same or often less work.

Its as much work to take an NS125 to bits and costs just as much to fix it up and put it back together again as it does something like an old XL500.... depending on how you pick it on the swings and roundabouts, same goes between many many 125's & big bikes.

Lessons Learned (or at least 'proved'.. I did 'tell her') on the Pup Project; dont try and squeeze SO much from ONE bike.

125's are horendousely over priced; and project bases sell for as much as >125 'runners'.

I bought my CB750, taxed, tested and on the road, ride away ready, for what a 'just needs fork seals' (ad-speak for; its fucked & REALLY needs ground up resto; but good excuse for it not having MOT and gets you all exited, thinking its a bargain that can be put on the road for a fiver!) NS125, 'poor-boy's NSR would cost.

Every nieve, optimistic, eager learner wants a 125 for very little money, and they will take on a shed, for the sake of, knowing no better, or hoping for the world!

They rarely prove cheap or easy to do, certainly do well; and at the end of it,. you have a bike, that still has finite 'usefulness' for all your effort.

If you want the fun of a project; fine; but siphon that bit out the 'plan', bag it up seperately, and dont make the job harder for yourself and less rewarding, trying to do a nice project on a 125.

UNLESS, you have some deeper, more deviouse ideas, doing a 'keeper', you wont want to sell on after tests to get a big bike; and you do an exotic of some sort, that's a recognised 'classic', you can hang onto; keep roaded with £20 a year 2nd bike insurance, after you have moved on, and use for high-days and holidays, or hide behind the freezer at the back of the garage, to admire in your dotage, and point at and say "My first bike that; built it myself" in fag breaks at dinner parties when your in your 40's!

With £1200 to spend; JUST nudging YBR125 territory; as train & test tool, its the best VFM bench mark; and worthy. ST125 would be a bit cheaper, but in the price bracket; looking ugly ducklings,m there is enough out there that would do you well, and work out the crate, and not have you up to your elbows in grease, cursing price of bushes or MOT mans insistence on functioning indicators, as you spend hours tracing dodgy earths with a multio-meter.

THINK HARD!

Projects are for mugs like me, that DONT have to get to work on them every day, pass a test on them, and can 'kid' ourselves we haven't done TOO badly getting it to test for what we have spent, sort of 'forgetting' all tyhe masking tapoe, sand paper, primer, grease, and 'odds and sods' we have bought from the shop round the corner, 'cash' that doesn't appear in the e-bay purchase History!
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shameless plug Mr. Green

https://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/honda-cityfly-125/86611898

You might not be close, but you can get it delivered to your door for like £90, and being off BCF I could lower the price Wink
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob Fzs wrote:
how come your selling it soo soon ? D:


I bought it to save money..

Figure the commute isnt that big of a drain, and I have no fun at weekends with no GSXR.

So i'd like to sell it to a learner, its definitely a quality bike... and my confidence since I owned my lat one has gone through the roof Shocked Seeing all the old corners and roundabouts I use to do and that.. doing them now is totally different Thumbs Up

Perfect learner bike anyway, I can do full circles, not just u turns on this thing Shocked
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trippz
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just replying to mike ( Big respect Thumbs Up )

I want a 125cc a decent one as i am actually going to do my tests and get a restricted licence but i still want to finish the year of with the 125cc as it will be cheaper to run than a bigger bike. plus i want a good solid year or a small slower bike before advancing. plus if i drop a 125 i wont be crying my eyes out compare to a nice 250cc or even maybe a 400cc with a restriction kit on.

So with all that in mind. what 125 would you recommend to me. I will be doing a mini restoration on it. not so much the looks (obviously something will be polished, rust removed and such) more or so on the engine. first thing done as you say will be, make sure it can stop and turn before it can go. so i will be checking everything over steering and breaking wise.


I was looking at the erm... whats it called TZR125. Love the look, beautiful bikes. and ive heard pretty decent runners too.

Edit: I may also be keeping the bike as i have some people that will be getting on a bike the second they turn 17, (family, family friends)
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

trippz wrote:
I want a 125cc a decent one as i am actually going to do my tests and get a restricted licence but i still want to finish the year of with the 125cc as it will be cheaper to run than a bigger bike. plus i want a good solid year or a small slower bike before advancing. plus if i drop a 125 i wont be crying my eyes out compare to a nice 250cc or even maybe a 400cc with a restriction kit on.

So with all that in mind. what 125 would you recommend to me. I will be doing a mini restoration on it. not so much the looks (obviously something will be polished, rust removed and such) more or so on the engine. first thing done as you say will be, make sure it can stop and turn before it can go. so i will be checking everything over steering and breaking wise.


A decent 125 shouldnt need a mini restoration.
Cheap to run until you want to restore it.

Cant really give you any bikes, depends what YOU want, if you want a sporty one, an off road style one.. mines up for sale, but its not everyones cup of tea.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

trippz wrote:
I want a 125cc a decent one as i am actually going to do my tests and get a restricted licence but i still want to finish the year of with the 125cc as it will be cheaper to run than a bigger bike. plus i want a good solid year or a small slower bike before advancing. plus if i drop a 125 i wont be crying my eyes out compare to a nice 250cc or even maybe a 400cc with a restriction kit on.


Well, I'd have along hard look at Paddy's City Fly, TBH.....

£750 'Ask' price.... and he'd preffer it went to a learner to use for what its intended.... his mechanics are a little hap-hazard, but bloke has SOME idea bikes need some, and what's important..... Wink

It's on the money; leaving change to tart it up; and sure Paddy would help you go over it, and make sure it was 'sound' before your rode it away.0

As a 'Runner' and useful training & test took, and every day rider, I'd be in no rush to tart it up much beyond stickie; stoppie; steerie; I'd get use out of it; and look for 'long term' project with change; anything goes, but old dirt donks make nice post test 33bhp restriction bikes; for two stroke sillyness, plenty to choose from, but something like a KMX200, my DT175, or 'something'; but open mandate really.

TZR? I like them, and they are an acknowledged 'semi-classic'; but over priced. Every-one is after a tarter-upper to do up, or one that's cheap for the performance..... so you dont get much for your money very often, and you often get an awful lot of work to go with it, hassle and expense.

Full power they aren't as wonderful as other stroker 'sports' 125's, so it would be a bit of a wet blanket as a post test bike, when naughty boys on de-restricted 'Prillias go blasting past in haze of Silkolene, shooting bits of reed-valve and piston ring at you......

Might be a nice project; but not to get you on the road in a hurry; and not 'really' so great as a post test bike.

I'd stick to the usual targets for a rider, if not Paddy's City-Fly, something of that ilk.

Post Test; as a project, if a TZR is sort of up your street; hunt out an old RD350YPVS as a 'project'; project bases are similar money; bit more expensive to do up, but hardly any more hard work, and even 'better' post renovation resale value; as good or better performance than 400 'fours' and easier to live with.

But your call, what to go for ultimately & how to balence things.
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P.addy
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 16:39 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
£750 'Ask' price.... and he'd preffer it went to a learner to use for what its intended.... his mechanics are a little hap-hazard, but bloke has SOME idea bikes need some, and what's important..... Wink

It's on the money; leaving change to tart it up; and sure Paddy would help you go over it, and make sure it was 'sound' before your rode it away.0


Laughing Thumbs Up

Its sound aside from that odd noise from the top... but hasnt had an issue at all Wink But yes... im a bit cack with mechanics, "That socket fits, i'll use that" Laughing
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trippz
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha thanks guys, See ive spotted a little 125 zennco super montaro for £440. To me it sounds like a chinese rust bucket. but i would actually prefer a bike like his cityfly (check your messages!) because i would like a nice bike to hit the dirt on from time to time.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

trippz wrote:
i would actually prefer a bike like his cityfly because i would like a nice bike to hit the dirt on from time to time.


You want to be careful of that; it's habbit forming.

https://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s209/montesa-trials/02_MyTrials/dsci0393.jpg

Quiarter of a century I've had that bike, and I'M still 'hitting the dirt'.... DAMN those gravity surges!
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Eas85
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 24 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm also looking to get a 125, for a daily commute of up to 40 miles.

To Mike, in these post you seem to suggest getting a 125 to pass CBT and then get full license as soon as you can so you can get rid of the 125 and move up.
The problem is for me, i'm probs gonna have to take out a loan just to get a used cg or ybr so I'm not gonna want (or be able) to trade it back in straight away.
So my question is, is a 125 ybr or cg good to keep as a commuter up to 1 or maybe 2 years for a daily commute of up to 40 miles.

Also, when I'm shopping around, does year of make or total mileage have much bearing on the quality of the bike? Like is there gonna be a massive difference between a bike thats done 5k and a bike thats done 20k or 30k?
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Germ
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 13 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 25 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eas85 wrote:
I'm also looking to get a 125, for a daily commute of up to 40 miles.

To Mike, in these post you seem to suggest getting a 125 to pass CBT and then get full license as soon as you can so you can get rid of the 125 and move up.
The problem is for me, i'm probs gonna have to take out a loan just to get a used cg or ybr so I'm not gonna want (or be able) to trade it back in straight away.
So my question is, is a 125 ybr or cg good to keep as a commuter up to 1 or maybe 2 years for a daily commute of up to 40 miles.

Also, when I'm shopping around, does year of make or total mileage have much bearing on the quality of the bike? Like is there gonna be a massive difference between a bike thats done 5k and a bike thats done 20k or 30k?


From what I can gather you can buy a 125 and sell it for pretty much what you paid for it and the silly prices of 125's mean you can then buy an older big bike for around the same price with the proceeds.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 25 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eas85 wrote:
To Mike, in these post you seem to suggest getting a 125 to pass CBT and then get full license as soon as you can so you can get rid of the 125 and move up.


Pretty much; 125's are very compromised bikes; and on a learner licence, trying to squeeze even 'more' from them than what's intended; 'cheap & easy' learner-(short) commuter use, is just silly, all for the sake of exploiting loophole in law that says you can ride one without taking tests and getting full licence.

Every other motorised road user has to train up, under supervision, and pass driving tests before they are let out on thier own; 125 L-Plate regs are mere legacy of the days when, before practicable & reliable bike-to-bike radio comms, there was no way to supervise a learner, so give them small, lightweight, limited performance machine thay cant do 'too much' harm to other road users on, and let them wobble about a bit until they get the idea...

They'll get you to and from work or college, accross town, but that's about it. They CAN do 70mph, but with so little reserve, and so little weight to make them stable or comfy, its only really a capability you want to expliot 'occassionally'.

With a full licence; which OUGHT to be the intent of any-one setting out on two wheels; choice of bikes is huge; and door open to all biking has to offer, rather than frustrating yourself trying to live with self imposed 'learner' limits, trying to sqeeze a pint out of a thimble!

MOST, as soon as they have, 'Full-Licence'.... (it's NOT, but often called 'Big-Bike' licence!).... and the door to all the shiney, fast, exiting bikes that are out there is open, are USUALLY eager to go get a 'propper' bike, and exploit thier new qualification.

Not MANDATORY.... and 125's do offer a lot of advantages; they are STILL cheap; they are STILL easy to ride, and they are still small, light and nimble, etc.

As a cross town commuter; there is still a lot of sense for hanging on to one.

Eas85 wrote:
I'm also looking to get a 125, for a daily commute of up to 40 miles.


BUT for 40milke commute.. I HOPE that's 20 miles each way! You'd be stretching it a bit.

Practical top speed of 55mph, and dilemah of using duel-carriageways and braving tucking into the queue of trucks, or working harder taking the scenic route; it will take a lot more maintenence to keep a bike worked that hard that often in good fettle, and it will be very 'wearing' to ride like that, that much, every day.

YES: you COULD do it with a YBR or a CBF or similar, but these bikes are supposed to be 'easy to ride', and under those circumstances, used in the extremes of thier operating envelope, you loose SO much of thier virtue, it's really time to look at more suitable alternatives.

Eas85 wrote:
The problem is for me, i'm probs gonna have to take out a loan just to get a used cg or ybr so I'm not gonna want (or be able) to trade it back in straight away.


NOT a 'Problem'... or at least need not be.

Something like 2/3 of all registered vehicles in the UK are bought on loans or credit! HOW do you think ANY-ONE trades in thier car or bike? Do you think that EVERY-ONE waits until they have paid the last installement of thier five year credit deal, before they buy a new car or bike?

If you take out an 'unsecured loan', that's exactly what it is; contract between you and the lender, you accepting liability for the principle, and agreed interest; doesn't really matter what you use it for; provided you pay it back. THAT is why it's called 'unsecured', it is not 'secured', ie: no contract exists that the lender has any claim to the actual 'property' you buy with it.

If you take out a 'Hire Purchase' scheme, or 'Secured Credit' agreement; then the LENDOR technically 'buys' the vehicle you want, and has title or cliam to title to that property. Means that if you dont make the payements, they can, more easily, reclaim the goods bought to recoup their money; hence are accepting less 'risk' of default. Meanwhile, you are in part 'renting' the goods from them, and in part, 'buying' a share of it, until at the end of the scheme, entire credit fees repayed, you own 100% of the vehicle.

On an 'unsecured loan'; there is NO problem at all; to what you do with the money you borrow, or what you spend it on. So, If you borrow, £2000 you can spend £1200 on a used YBR, and use the remaining £800 to insure it for the first year; buy your riding kit, and pay for CBT, Training & Tests. Fact that you have borrowed MORE than the value of the bike, doesn't matter to them; becouse they couldn't 're-possess' it anyway.. they would, simply take you to small claims court and get a credit injunction against you.

SO; if the loan is unsecured; YOU have legal title and clear 'ownership' of the bike, and can do what you like with it, and at ANY time, sell that bike on. Up to you whether you buy another bike with the proceeds, or get a car instead, or even a Holiday in Morocco..... provided you make the repayements.

If you buy on a 'Secured Loan' or Finance Agreement, where the 'ownership' of the bike is technically 'Shared' by you and the cridit company; its a little more tricky, BUT, they have mechanisms for this, becouse it happens every day.

The 'old fasioned' way of doing it, was that you wrote and asked thier permission to 'sell' the bike. They then sent you a letter of agreement, and a copy, to provide to the buyer; so that the resale value wasn't deminished by bike being flagged as having outstanding credit against it. Basically, they gave you permission to sell on thier behalf, and relinquished 'title' to the goods, so that they couldn't repossess the machine from the buyer. That letter would also invoke 'early termination' clauses within the original agreement, and usually, within 30 days or so of 'sale', YOU were obliged to have got the proceeds of sale of the buyer, and paid the Credit company the outstanding finance charges from it.

THIS is where the 'problem' if there is one, normally arises, as often the settlement figure, would be everything you WOULD have paid, IF you had let the agreement run to termination.

Twenty years ago, I bought Brand-New Kawasaki AR125 on Credit, and if I had sold the bike, mid term, I was liable to repay ALL the payements I would have made if I had let agreement run to termination over two years.

The bike was actually stolen four months into the agreement; Bike had cost £1400 in the show room, but interest charges took repayement total to £1700 over two years. When it was stolen, I had made four payements; £300's worth. Insurance company valued bike at 'market value' and tried to give the credit company just £1000 for the bike, leaving me, 'liable' for £400's worth of outstanding finance charges, and NO BIKE.

It had been recovered, so I got it back, and fixed it up myself, as I didn't HAVE £400 to 'settle' with instantly, as early settlement demanded, and after exposing a near 'fraud' by the insurance co & salvage firm, they actually settled for £900, with me keeping the bike, so I was able to maintain the agreement, and not loose out....

But be warned, early settlement clauses, can be pretty punative, and not just envoked when YOU want to sell the bike.

I think it took until about 145 months, that the monthly HP fees 'balenced' the bikes depreciation & interest charges, and I started to 'effectively' buy any of it.

BUT depending on the agreement, there is always a balence point, and depends on the small print where that is, and when and IF its 'worth' trading the bike in for another.

THAT... I cant really tell, you. All I can say is, its not a 'Problem' you dont HAVE to keep the bike full term of the credit agreement.... whether its ecconomical NOT to, is another matter... but then secured credit deals tend NOT to be the most ecconomical, anyway, even when they suggest really attractive ZERO % interest...... you REALLY have to check the contract carefully, and be SURE of what you are getting.

Eas85 wrote:
So my question is, is a 125 ybr or cg good to keep as a commuter up to 1 or maybe 2 years for a daily commute of up to 40 miles.


I have answered this, sort of, and bottom line is, NOT REALLY.

But then NO 125 would 'really' be up to that kind of commute. You are trying to bag far too much into ONE very limited capability motorbike.

Eas85 wrote:
Also, when I'm shopping around, does year of make or total mileage have much bearing on the quality of the bike? Like is there gonna be a massive difference between a bike thats done 5k and a bike thats done 20k or 30k?


YES! At least on a lightweight 125!

125's have expected life of about seven years and 35,ooo miles; One that's done just 5K will be barely run in; one that's done 30K will be on its last legs!

Age, well, they are MOT exempt for three years, and CAN easily rack up 10K a year, pressed to commute like a car; and be 'fucked' before they even have to get anb MOT!

After 3 years you have some assurance that they have been tested, and any niggles sorted out.

But, condition is all. And not the shiney bits.

Ex School bikes, and many YBR's & the ilk ARE ex-School bikes; wont crank up many miles, riding around the CBT play-ground; but they WILL have thier gearboxes macshed by umpety students getting to grips with gears; thier clutch burned out, finding the balence point, and thier fork seals hammered practicing e-stops etc....

All down to how well maintained they are, as to whether that is a 'Problem'....

And ultimately, a well looked after School bike, with regular oil changes, clutch replacvements, chain adjustments etc etc, could, for all likely to show evidence of minor spill damage, be much better bike than privately owned machine, some-one has kept shiney, but never got thier hands dirty checking or lubing the drive chain, or anything.

BUT, as far as 'value' goes, that credit deal, probably 50% more than price of the bike, is where you OUGHT to be 'most' careful, and shop most carefully.

All up; for this situation, I would have to suggest, thinking long and hard about buying 125 on credit. A Personal loan would give you more flexibility, and 'bagging' all your 'wants' into one agreement...

KNOWING you are payiong over the odds for everything; DONT STINT yourself.

Go for a personal, unsecured loan, and stretch it.....

Take out enough to let you get a training course, on school bike, to avoid bother of buying 125, perhaps, or that will get you a really 'good' 125, to make training & tests easy, but give flexibility to sell on, and get more 'suitable' commuter bike, for your 40 mile trip.

JUST to give you heads up; Snowie, looking for insurance quotes, discovered that taking out a years policy on her 125 post test, will cost no less becouse she has a full licence. More, trading UP to a 500 twin, premium, for same cover, on same value bike DROPS by 30%.... that's £40 for her..... on a more expensive policy? Could be much more significant.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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The last post was made 15 years, 44 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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