protection...

[majkpajk80]

I am a new biker(not really yet). What kind of protection except helmet do I need.
And, where can I get the protection, cheapest?

I heard that a helmet should be bought new, is there any "cheaper" site were I can buy it brand new?

Thank you guys!

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

How cheap do you mean? You can pick up approved helmets for as little as £30. If you think that's too expensive then I'd question whether biking's for you.

As for other protection, the minimum I'd ride in would be bike specific boots, gloves, jacket and stout jeans.

Remember that up to a point you're paying for quality, and certainly with other proection (not a helmet) you're paying for CE approval as well.
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My Flickr

[pinkyfloyd]

Protection?

https://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2009/03/05/condom.jpg

Works.

If you mean bike protection. As above said on the helmet front and ebay have some great deals on new cheap and second hand cheaper textiles, leathers etc.
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illuminateTHEmind wrote: I am just more evolved than most of you guys... this allows me to pick of things quickly which would have normally taken the common man years to master
Hockeystorm65:.well there are childish arguments...there are very childish arguments.....there are really stupid childish arguments and now there are......Pinkfloyd arguments!
Teflon-Mike:I think I agree with just about all Pinky has said.

[SuzukiTom]

[Rogerborg]

[Teflon-Mike]

[Rogerborg]

Yup, I largely agree with Tef.

In particular, do consider an open face helmet, for the reasons given and also because it's likely to make you much more aware of your vulnerability, and more connected with the world outside your lid. Risk compensation will kick in, and you'll be less likely to take daft risks.

However, I would recommend trying to eBay some slightly used cheapish textile (cordura) trousers - they should be waterproof or nearly so, and far better than jeans in any sort of slide. Denim will protect you for about 6 feet in a slide, then you're surfing on your skin.

Oh, and visibility. You'll hear it argued that hi-vis might actually break up your outline, dozy cagers won't see it anyway, or register it because there's so much of it around, it doesn't help anyway if you're totally hidden, all so on.

The real argument against is is that it makes you look like a nobber. The argument in favour is that for someone to think you look like a nobber, they have to see you first, so job done.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[T.C]

Please, please, please do not use steel toe capped boots.

It is not an urban myth, they are a serious risk to the health of your feet in a crash, even a minor one.

I have cases where the foot has been bent backwards (the wrong way) and made the injury considerably worse because the foot is only designed to go one way.

I have also had a lot of cases where the toes have been sliced through by the steel toe caps as the leather splits.

Then like with DM's there are issues with laces.

And finally from the riding point of view, you will have very little if any feed back of what is happening under your feet.

Bad bad choice to go with steel toe caps.
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It is better to arrive 30 seconds late in this world, than 30 years early in the next

[Rogerborg]

[Teflon-Mike]

[P.addy]

[T.C]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[majkpajk80]

yeah.. I know that biking is for me. I tried it when I was abroad. I really love it. I just don't want to spend my whole saving which is really possible since the prices of bike stuff has not really a limit.

Basically, I just want to know were to get the most basic stuff, and where to get new things at the cheapest as well. I am especially thinking about the Helmet.

Since I am really new and still study to make the theory I am interested in which sport bikes that are the most popular. I want to be able to sell it if not suitable. I believe 4000 would be enough for my first bike.

Well, as you may understood, I am not british, recently moved here from Sweden because of a job.

Tack så mycket för svar!

[Slacker24seve...]

[Berk]

£4k, £fook.

I wish I had that money, I started in June (I think) and if I'd had that budget I'd be on my first big bike already with all tests done.

[Teflon-Mike]

'Sports bike' straight off the blocks, is a great way to ruin your enjoyment of bikes before you begin, if not end your enjoyment of, well, everything!

You starty by doing CBT, you HAVE to do that course to get a certificate to validate your provisional licence entitlement.

Next; you have choices; you can ride 11Kw 125cc bike on L-Plates, 'practicing' to take motorcycle Tests; Theory/Hazard, Mod 1 practical, Mod 2 Practical.

Training is optional, but reccomended.

Intensive courses, '3-Days to Licence' are incredibly expensive, and what you get from them, MAY get you a licence, but wont do MUCH to prepare you for real road riding on your own, IF it will even get you there.

They suit people who have possibly been riding roads for a number of years, 'perpetually' L-Plating, and have plenty of road experience, possibly in a car, and can pick it all up quickly enough..

But, if you have little or no riding experience, and NOT been driving UK roads..... I think Sweeden drive on the right, continental style dont they? Remember stories my Grandad told of the year Scandanavia 'concerted' to LHD....

Not being patronising, but I think that you would have a LOT to get to grips with; and an intensive course, would be rather over ambitiouse.

So, to get to grips and take stuff in the overwhelming amount of know-how you'll need to absorb, I'd strongly reccomend weekly training, and riding your own 125 between lessons to gain experience to put what you are tought into perspective.

A Yamaha YBR125 is my reccomended 'bench-mark' 125. They are a 'boring' learner-commuter; but they are great for the job, cheap, dependable, uncompromised by stlye or performance for easy riding, and low cost. You can pick one up for £1500 or so, and they sell, easily for similar money.

To get you ready for test, that would leave a LOT of change out of 4K for kit, and training, and post test bike.

Now; after CBT, and a few weekly lessons and some 125 practice riding...... you need to get the Theory/Hazard test nailed.

Nothing major in there, but you need to read the books or do practice DVD tests to learn all the answers to Theory Questions... Hazard Perception test is a bit like 'spot-The-Ball' and a bit of a lottery whether you score enough to pass... its all down to when you 'click' in a video clip, and doesn't matter when you see the hazard, its whether you see when the programmer THINKS you ought to have seen the Hazard.

Can take a couple of attemps to crack that one, but you need the cert before you can take Mod 2, and its best to get it out the way first.

Next up, you have Mod 1 Practical, off road on a play-ground / tennis court, where you have to ride round some cones displaying adequete control.

Pass that, and its not hard, but it can be challenging..... you can go for Mod 2, practical 'on road' riding.

Pass that you get 'Full Licence'...

BUT there are three licence qualifications, all dependent on what bike you do tests on.

Do Mod 1 & Mod 2 on a bike less than 120cc, or a 125 not on DSA approval list, you get an A1 licence 'entitlement', that ONLY lets you ride an 11Kw 125, and its described as the 'lightweight' licence test on DSA booking web-site.

Do Mod 1 & Mod 2 on a bike between 120 & 125cc, meeting certain performance requirements, on the DSA approved list; you get an A2 licence entitlement; you can ride ANY bike you like, use motorways, carry pillions, BUT for the first two years after passing your test, you CANNOT ride anything that produces more than 25Kw or 33bhp.

However, if you are over 21, you can do your tests DAS, and take mod 1 & Mod 2 on a bike over 125cc, usually a 500, and more than so much power, I think 45bhp, you gain full 'A' entitlement that has no restriction and you can ride what you like.

However, you cannot ride a full power DAS bike on the road, unsupervised until you have passed tests, and though you could take tests on your own big-bike, practicalities of insuring a bike you dont have a licence for, and getting it to a test centre, means for most its a case of doing a DAS course, & using a school bike.

Post DAS, you could jump on a full power R1.... and in all liklihood kill yourself in weeks.

Modern 600+ sports bikes, are very very competant machines, that will flatter incompetant oir inexpert riders by delivering a lot of shear 'fast' without demanding much skill to do it, or giving much feed-back of stupidity.... until they simply spit you off.

As such they are NOT great newbie bikes; they are very compromised for looks and performance; but don't give you anything to help you develop as a rider, but can, and frequently do, give a HUGE amount of false confidence that going THAT fast, you MUST be 'good', when you aint, basically.

BIGGEST number of fetalities amongst UK bikers is DAS Licence holders, on 600+ sports bikes, killed in thier first three years riding.

And its a FRIGHTENING proportion of them.

However you get your licence, post test, you want a bike that DOESN'T flatter you, or give you false confidence, you want a bike that is freindly, with a flexible power delivery, that doesn't urge you to seek shear speed, and gives you plenty of feed-back that anything yo are doing that's a bit sloppy, lazy, ragged or daft, isn't great, LONG before it becomes life threatening.

PLENTY of bikes out there that do that; some of them even quite 'sporty', but they aren't 'sports bikes'. And they need not be full power machines, 33bhp for a couple of years CAN be enough to be getting on with for quite a while; its enough to break speed limits and get about briskly, even if you do feel a bit 'short changed'.

AND... stepping up from a YBR type Learner-Commuter 125, Lots and Lots of bikes to choose from, and many of them need not cost you any more than the 125 sells for.

Your 125, you are likely to scratch up, getting to grips with basic controls....

First 'Big-Bike', you'll probably 'Dump' at some point, you'll almost certainly give it a few scrapes and scratches.

An expensive Sports-Bike, with big expanse of vulnerable plastic fairings, is devalued very quickly by early riding 'experience'......

And you can, in THIS country, I know that bike prices in Denmark & Sweeden are a lot higher; get something reletively 'young' less then ten years old, in fair nick, bewbie freindly and as 'sporty' in styling as you want to go, for under £2ooo...

THAT leaves you a as much again, to get yourself togged up, WELL, not just the bare minimum; Hat, Gloves, Oversuit and 'improvised' riding wear...... AND get your licences sorted, training AND tests with.....

You have a VERY 'Healthy' budget; so, you need not 'skimp' on kit.

BUT you are right, the sky IS the limit if you dont keep it in check....

Prioratising; sort the CBT, THAT has to be your starting point; get yourself a hat, gloves & oversuit for the Course, go looking for a 'Learner-Commuter' 125, like a Yam YBR or Honda CBF; get some miles in on it; pick yourself some 'better' riding kit, and get yourself some regular training in... take it from there.

It will all make more sense as you do it; so dont sweat the small stuff.... take it a step at a time, and remember to ENJOT it!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[TheSmiler]

Ebay is the best place if you want your clothing in my opinion apart from helmets. I'll list why in my opinion and the cost it was for me just as guidance.

Helmet you can get second hand but this should only be a temporary measure if it has to be done and no choice do it with someone you know Otherwise buy brand new. I brought a second hand helmet of a friend to use because he had left it in the box got it out a few times to check on it hence few marks but no damage anyway (£20inc). Priced up a new helmet £55 full face, or £75 with full/flip though inclined to get a open faced when i'm fully matured.

Jacket always good to get an armored jacket if you can't afford separate armor, reason being is if you go down you need to protect your back that gets screwed then you will be a vegetable not good. You can get them of ebay cheap enough depending on your size always worth a look. Mine cost me (£20inc) from my friend a textile winter spada jacket with armor. Priced up a new Full CE Armored Leather RST Jacket £100.

Gloves always good to get a thick pair of gloves if you are buying them as they can give you great protection armor is more than anything in gloves though I would have to say best to protect your palms. I was taught a trick with this if you can put the glove on and rub a brick wall open handed with it and then try to pull the fingers and thumbs off if they come of or easily damaged then no good. Got mine from my friend with the helmet Weise Gloves (£20inc). So £20 for the helmet,gloves and jacket, brought a new pair the other week for £5 though local shop.

Trousers didn't manage get these of my friend so had to go on ebay, always good to get armor to protect your hips and knees they can be easily damaged always good to give you the best chance if you don't hit anything. This was the last thing that I got was using cargo jeans at first thick pockets so were good in a falling, anyway managed get Revit Trousers with armor padding used once for £25 including postage of £10 so £15 for the trousers priced up at £169.99. Going get a new pair of leathers Full CE Armor RST £70 local shop.

Boots a good pair of boots that can protect your ankle are easily high on the list. Decent motorcycle boots are the best but some people find it more comfortable to wear hiking boots or thick builders boots (minus the laces). Again mine were purchased of ebay for the measly price of £5 with free postage worn once size 11 feet so could of had something to do with the price they are thick leather with zip and buckle fastening. Brand new pair of RST cheapest pair at the shop are £80 with full armor and ankle protection.

Also Waterproof clothing is a good buy not to do with protection as much but still pretty valid in that department as if you are wet you will lose control over your bike as much as if you were dry. They are not dear and can be gotten from £Free - £40.
So you don't have to spend much to get protected overall cost was.
First Kit £45 ( including second hand helmet,jacket and gloves)
New Kit £310
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CB125>CG125>GN125>ER5>K100RS>R1100RS>K100RS
A2 completed 23/07/15 Ready for the Golden Crisp Packet

[Rogerborg]