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under 10k miles and chain loose

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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

teuma86 wrote:
Do I need to purchase a Paddock Stand (or something else) as the ER6-F Does not have a Centre Stand.



You dont "need" a paddock stand, might be easier with it.

Also thats more than likely a rivet job rather than a split link (you'd like to hope anyway) Do you have a chain riveter/splitter?

Do the front sprocket first, get someone to sit on the bike with foot on rear brake, unbolt front sprocket (if its bolted on that is)

Remove rear wheel and unbolt rear sprocket.

I've never needed a paddock stand... and my bike has the back wheel off nearly every week due to punctures Laughing
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Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a decent brand chain not some no-name rubbish.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Frost
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 May 2004
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
teuma86 wrote:
Someone said, a well lubes chain should only need lubing once a year.


If you never ever ride the bike then maybe.


If i didn't ride my bike for 5 years i wouldn't lube the chain for 5 years. However i'd give the bike a good going over before i started to use it again which would of course mean lubing the chain.

A bit +1 on undoing the front sprocket BEFORE you take the current chain off, i've had to do some weird and wonderful things to get the sprocket off bikes that people have taken the chain off first Laughing
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stonesie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A rear paddock stand would be a very good idea, it will help you to maintain this new chain and hopefully get a bit more than 10K out of it.
The link to the chain kit on ebay doesnt say what brand it is, that usually means this it is cheap tat and well worth avoiding, a chain snapping at speed can write off the bike and your leg. My local bike mechanic likes Tsubaki chains, DID are also acceptable to him and everyone else i've spoken to Thumbs Up

https://www.ricambiweiss.de/index.php/cat/c190_PADDOCK-STAND.html/XTCsid/7l3b8v2jng3qa1fsqlpun1d327

Those paddock stands are very good and reasonable money, fit a pair of bobbins to your swing arm and get the stand with the forks to make life slightly easier.

Chain lubeing should be done when it looks dry, the cheapest way of doing it is to go to your local car parts shop and buy a litre of thier cheapest EP90 gear oil and then on to a DIY shop and buy a handful of thier cheapest 1/2" paint brushes. Paint the chain with that working it between all the links and that will clean and lube the chain in 1 hit, but remember to wipe off the excess or it will fling off Thumbs Up

Or do what I did and spend £20 ish on a Tutoro chain oiler, fill with lightly used engine oil and jobs a good-un, chain still gets paraffin cleaned every month though.
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teuma86
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 16 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 01 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all

As people suggested not buying a no-name set. As it would probs be cheap crap

I have found these 2. Would like peoples suggestions (or better place to buy)

Izumi Sprocket Set (£68.59)
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Kawasaki/ER-6_F_C9F/09/picture/Chain_and_Sprocket_Kit_Izumi/

DID (I kept seeing it pop up) Sprocket Set (£93.74)
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Kawasaki/ER-6_F_C9F/09/picture/Chain_and_Sprocket_Kit_DID/

Prices include VAT and shipping is about £5 on top of.

No pressure but if you all say its good. im buying them (probs tomorrow now, im off home)
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SuzukiTom
Nova Slayer



Joined: 18 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 01 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

my chain gets a proper make over every 500 miles / week. i recommend doing the same. you need to work out a routine set of checks to do each week, like oil level, tyre PSI, brake pads, chains, wheels bearings etc....it can and does save lifes. you bike should be MOT worthy at any point you are on the road, or near as anyway.

your weekly checks could take as little as 20 mins if you get used to it, 20 mins a week to know you are riding a safe machine is worth the investment IME.

DID chains are my pref, i got 23k out of the last set.
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.....
Quote Me Happy



Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 01 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also have a look on B&C Express for chain kits.

My personal preference is the DID X ring chains, they seem to go on and one with a bit of care.
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Pie-Roe
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 01 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't have a chain riveter a size 8 spanner and a g clamp with a 4mm ball bearing will do exactly the same job for about 8 pounds.

Just put the spanner over the rivet coming through put gclamp over, tighten halfway, do over the next rivet, do halfway, repeat. Put ball bearing in middle of rivet and tighten with gclamp until it is riveted.

I've done this two or three times on bikes from 40hp to 150hp. It works just fine.

Pyro
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teuma86
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 16 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 07:57 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
Also have a look on B&C Express for chain kits.

My personal preference is the DID X ring chains, they seem to go on and one with a bit of care.


I had a look at B&C Express
They don't appear to do sets.

So I am looking at
£86.70 - Renthal 540 Chain
£25.32 - Renthal Rear Sprocket
£6.88 - Rebthal Front Sprocket

£118.90 Total

Might as well go with the DID from WebMoto. But defo bookmarked the site for future reference, thanks.
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totalllama82
Crazy Courier



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 02 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

pyroforlife wrote:
If you don't have a chain riveter a size 8 spanner and a g clamp with a 4mm ball bearing will do exactly the same job for about 8 pounds.

Just put the spanner over the rivet coming through put gclamp over, tighten halfway, do over the next rivet, do halfway, repeat. Put ball bearing in middle of rivet and tighten with gclamp until it is riveted.

I've done this two or three times on bikes from 40hp to 150hp. It works just fine.

Pyro


Now that is Ghetto! what an excellent idea Laughing
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