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Exhaust Studs

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rac3r
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 10 Sep 2011    Post subject: Exhaust Studs Reply with quote

What's the best/easiest way to remove exhaust studs?
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 10 Sep 2011    Post subject: Re: Exhaust Studs Reply with quote

rac3r wrote:
What's the best/easiest way to remove exhaust studs?



With lots of swearing normally.




Start soaking the hell out of them will plus gas for a few days before you go to do it, use a small spanner on the nuts and hope they come off without snapping, they snap very easily so take it steady. If some are stuck then try an impact driver, the quick shock might loosen them off. If they still wont come out or if you have snapped one then you need a good amount of heat into the cylinder head around the stud using a blow torch, propane might be enough but if you have access to oxyacetylene use that (dont melt the head), try cooling the stud itself with ice or freeze spray. You want to expand the metal in the head relative to the stud so heat the head and cool the stud. If you snap them and there is some stud still poking out then try using a stud extractor or mole grips. If you snap them flush with or recessed into the head they will need to be drilled out. If you get the stud out of the head then clean the threads up with a tap to stop the new ones snagging on reassembly. Use loads of copper grease.


Next time I do them I will try using a dremel and a nut splitter to cut the nut off leaving the stud in place. Then I'll run a die down the stud to clean the thread before fitting new nuts. If you use brass nuts then next time you go to remove them the brass shouldnt corrode and even if it does seize the thread will strip before the stud snaps. Use LOADS of copper grease on reassembly.



Did I mention you should use loads of copper grease on reassembly?
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rac3r
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 10 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Left hand side stud came out with nut still stuck on Laughing but on the right hand side (which I did first) the nut snapped but there is still a fair bit of stud sticking out

Also on reassembly doesn't the top half need to be locked with something?
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 10 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Screw a nut onto them and weld it into place. Then hammer it into the head and unscrew it.
The rapid expansion fron arc welding combined with the percussive blows should release it.
WD 40 may or may not help
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 11 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just done mine and got a few tips for people. None of mine snapped and that's on a 25 miler, so either I did it right of got lucky Laughing

First thing I did was start with the penetrating oil early. I started spraying them a month ago, and what a different it makes. Also putting the engine through a few heat cycles with the penetrating oil helps.

I then got a large screw driver and hit every nut with a big hammer with reasonable force. If you get the hammer and screw driver square, then you won't break anything. This breaks all the rust. I then got a good fitting socket and went for it. Every time you are unsuccessful with removing them and apply pressure you are weakening the stud.

Personally, I would steer clear of using heat on the for a couple of reasons:

1. Cylinder heads warp easily and applying that much heat in a concentrated area is not good.

2. The heat will also weaken the stud inside the head, exactly where you don't want it to snap.

I just went for it and I had good results. You can expect a couple of snapped studs but you'd be VERY unlucky if they snapped inside the head. Stud extractors are the best for removing snapped studs so it's not the end of the world.

HTH
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