125cc 'clunks' into first gear?

[EazyDuz]

Not sure if this is normal or not, but if im slowing down or coming to a stop and put it into 1st, it goes into 1st fine but it makes a sort of clunking sound. It sometimes does this when shifting from 3rd to second as well. Normal?

Also getting neutral can be a bit difficult. I sometimes have to shift from 1st to second (while stationary), then push lightly down on the shifter and then the neutral light comes on.

Once today at a roundabout i thought i was in first because the clutch light wasnt on, tried to go but it must have been in neutral, pressed on the shifter and it went into first and off i went.

Also when starting the bike from cold, putting it in 1st the bike wants to go very slightly. It wont shoot off if i lift my feet up but i can feel it pull. Stops doing this when it warms up

Are these things normal or should i be a bit concerned?

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

Obvious things...
Chain and sprockets in good order?
Tension of chain correct (at it's tightest spot).

My XL125 and 250 had clunky changes into 1st. I was told it's normal for Honda gearboxes. Also was told to be firm and positive with the upchanges.
After checking everything try it again.
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[TheSmiler]

[EazyDuz]

Ok thanks. I never bother with neutral really unless im practicing mod1 things like u turn etc. But even then you will pass without using neutral anyway.
No the chain is somewhat loose, which is something im hoping Kev can help me out with when i meet him.
Dont know when it last had an oil change, but the oil window shows it has plenty.

is it a no no to do an oil change without replacing the filter?

[P.]

I do a filter every other oil change on the 125.

My 125 has a massive clunk in 1st gear...always has.

[Polarbear]

[stinkwheel]

A big clunk and chain snatch is normal when changing into first.

The whole clutch is spinning while in neutral and half the plates abruptly stop spinning when you engage first (by effectively connecting them to the stationary back wheel through the gearbox). The residual energy from those spinning clutch plates is transmitted to the rear wheel. The bike actually jumps forwards slightly but not by much because there isn't THAT much energy.

The heavier your clutch, the more effect this has. MZ 2-strokes are really bad for it, they will noticeably jump forwards because the clutch weighs a ton (and therefore has a lot of energy stored in it).
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[weasley]

Also, when you pull the clutch in, although the plates separate there is still a viscous coupling due to the oil, which transmits a little 'drive' across the open clutch. This is why it's worse when cold, as the oil's thicker.
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[Rogerborg]

Thirded, just hold the brake on, and kick it in there, much as a man might do. On the first engage of the morning, squeeze the clutch lever a few times and then hold it right in. It might not help, but it'll improve your grip strength, which your boyfriend will appreciate.

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