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Running issues-GSXR 750 ws

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Chris750
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 02 Oct 2011    Post subject: Running issues-GSXR 750 ws Reply with quote

My bike is having major issues, it will start fine on the choke, but when it runs the revs are not staying constant.
As soon as I go to take the choke off it dies instantly, if I try to rev the engine it dies instantly.
I thought the engine idle setting may be out, but adjusting this is having absolutely no effect on engine speed. Is this becuase the choke is on?
Any ideas on what I can do to troubleshoot this would be greatly appreciated.

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Ichy
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 02 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly blocked jets. You should consider stripping and cleaning the carbs.
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 02 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
Possibly blocked jets. You should consider stripping and cleaning the carbs.


I thought that would be what was suggested, I just wanted to make sure I'm not being stupid before I start pulling the bike apart.

The bike fell over a few week back and although it wasn't damaged, maybe this has caused all the muck from the bottom of the tank to be
stired up a sucked into the carbs?
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 02 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

before you pull the carbies off, drain the float bowls of fuel, water and crud can escape that way. If it still acts up after this its time to get em off for a look.
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 09 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have removed the carbs today, going to start pulling them apart this week. This was a real pain in the arse, the large jublee clip things that hold the carbs to the engine were in such a position that you couldn't get a driver on them for the two middle carbs.
I put a flat blade on the ring and manage to tap it around with a hammer until I could see the screw and eventually got them off.

The screws for the float bowl chambers have been done up really tight and all the heads have been rounded off. Any ideas for getting them out?

Also as I would of had the carbs apart I guess they will need rebalencing after. Do the home made balencers work well enough or would you splash out on a proper balencer?
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 04:50 - 10 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris750 wrote:


The screws for the float bowl chambers have been done up really tight and all the heads have been rounded off. Any ideas for getting them out?


You may be able to get vice grips on the heads of the screws. I wouldnt use an impact driver on fragile carbys.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 10 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard practice would be to first cut a slot in the head of the screw and use a flat blade screwdriver.

In the past I've actually had to grind two flats on the head and use a spanner to get them off.
If you are very careful you can use a hot air gun to warm up* the body, sometimes helps.




*Don't use a naked flame and remember I said warm up not make it glow red.
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 11 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question:

I am slightly confused to how the tubes into my carbs were connected (I know how they were connected to start with but something doesn't seem right).

I have two fuel hoses (one between each pair of carbs), these both go th the fuel cock.

I have two hoses that tee together- these are diaphragm breather hoses and connect to a small air cleaner.

I then have two other hoses (which is were I'm confused)-which are exactly the same as each other, but one for each pair of carbs - one was previously connected to the centre connection on the fuel cock- I thought this was a vacuum conection to allow fuel to flow from the tank.
But the other one was previously not connected to anything.

The workshop manual tells you to disconnect these hoses before taking the carbs out so that other hose should surely of been plugged in somewhere. Should they have both been teed together and both connected to the fuel cock?

If this other hose is a vacuum hose and it has not been plugged in, maybe it has been sucking crap into my carbs for all this time instead of being connected to the fuel tank.
But, the other hose which was a mirror of the first
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 11 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

you should have two fuel hoses, a breather/overflow from at least one of the float bowls and a hose going from a vacuum takeoff to the fuel tap.

the vacuum hose for the fuel tap on those mikunis is usually on the top of one of the carbs and the same spigots on the other carbs will have a rubber cap. The vacuum line should be a single hose directed to the fuel tap.

you have already identified the fuel hoses, the overflows will be near the fuel hoses.
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 12 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
you should have two fuel hoses, a breather/overflow from at least one of the float bowls and a hose going from a vacuum takeoff to the fuel tap.

the vacuum hose for the fuel tap on those mikunis is usually on the top of one of the carbs and the same spigots on the other carbs will have a rubber cap. The vacuum line should be a single hose directed to the fuel tap.

you have already identified the fuel hoses, the overflows will be near the fuel hoses.


I think I'm OK no but still slightly concerned I have two hoses that both seem to be vacuum hoses but one is unconnected. I'll probably just leave it loose like its always been.


Also I've got the screws out of the float bowl covers now.
I tried cutting slots into them, filing them square and getting grips on them but all to no avail. The screws were made of chease and kept breaking.

I got them out using screw extractors which I got for a few quid from screwfix.
The ones were you drill a pilot hole into them, then screw a metal cone with a reverse thread into them. They worked really well and got every screw out without issue.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:18 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

block off the second vacuum. Either cap the spigot or shove a handy bolt into the end of the hose.

the open vacuum will muck up the mixture to that cylinder.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 05:53 - 13 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace the float bowl screws with allen cap ones. Much easier to remove the bowl with the carb in place should you ever need to.
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
Replace the float bowl screws with allen cap ones. Much easier to remove the bowl with the carb in place should you ever need to.


Yes I've done this now, should be much easier if I ever need to take it apart again.

Only problem I have now is the carbs are back on and the bike is not starting.
I have opened the drain on the float bowls and fuel came out so fuel is getting to the carbs.
I also pulled a plug out to double check whether I have a spark in case I have knocked anything (coils etc.). All good.

So for some reason fuel doesn't seem to be getting into the cylinders.
I have tried messing with the idle setting and the choke but haven't had any luck yet.
Is there any procedure for trouble shooting this or tips to get things working again?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try starting it with easy start spray in the airbox. If it catches then you have a fuel problem, if nothing happens then its more likely electrical.


(if you don't have easy start then I've heard of people using WD40, never tried it myself)
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 16 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure the plug caps are on the right plugs.

Plugs nice and clean? are they new or old?
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
make sure the plug caps are on the right plugs.

Plugs nice and clean? are they new or old?


Plugs are new, I changed them about 6 weeks ago and it was running fine after that.

I am just thinking, I have put the carbs back on, but not the airbox and filter, my reasoning was in case the carbs needed to come off again.
But would not having these on be the reason its not starting by changing the air/fuel mix?

If this could have an affect I may try putting everything back together and having another go later. What do you think?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris750 wrote:
Temeluchus wrote:
make sure the plug caps are on the right plugs.

Plugs nice and clean? are they new or old?


Plugs are new, I changed them about 6 weeks ago and it was running fine after that.

I am just thinking, I have put the carbs back on, but not the airbox and filter, my reasoning was in case the carbs needed to come off again.
But would not having these on be the reason its not starting by changing the air/fuel mix?

If this could have an affect I may try putting everything back together and having another go later. What do you think?


You fucking idiot Laughing
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are aware this is a WS not a SRAD?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
You guys are aware this is a WS not a SRAD?


No one has mentioned SRAD. Confused
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course it will start without the airbox, just not run properly under load or at speed.

Make sure you have not flooded the engine, (check plugs are dry). Make sure you have connected the choke mech properly and make sure the carbs are tightly clamped on the rubber inlets.
Get some easy start (WD40 is no good in this kind of situation).
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Chris750
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 17 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I honestly didn't think the airbox would be a problem, but I'm glad it is, as this makes it an easy solution to put right.

I tried doing it tonight but it started getting dark so hopefully I will finish tomorrow.

I will let you know if it all works out OK.

Thanks

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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:33 - 18 Oct 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've seen a standard 750wn started sans airbox. And a F. And an M. Ahem.

that was with the choke but none were left long enough to warm to a normal idle without the airbox and filter.
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