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| Dullblade35 |
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Dullblade35
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 15 Oct 2011
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 Posted: 12:16 - 20 Oct 2011  Post subject: Setup challenge + Bare minimum |
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Hi,
After looking over and over on gumtree and ebay and the rest. i was thinking whats the cheapest anyone has got on the road for? including bike, insurance, helmet, gloves, and any other payments needed 
If you remember what you paid that would be a good insight
as a challenge i'm trying to get setup for £500  lets see how it goes shall we
Also as a side note, what is the bare minimum a bike has to be to be road legal? |
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P.
Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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| Posted: 12:21 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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Bought bike for £200, paid £100 insurance, lid was £10, MOT was £30 and tax was £15. Needed a tyre at £80 and a piston at £25.
Under the £500 bracket... Just.
Bare minimum... number plate, rear reflector, horn, wheels, frame, engine, handlebars, forks, seat.
Lights are optional. |
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| nop |
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nop
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| The Artist |
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The Artist
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| hmmmnz |
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hmmmnz
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Posted: 12:44 - 20 Oct 2011  Post subject: |
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i once swapped a bike for a crate of beer, $25(12quid)
no insurance needed in nz
change of ownership $8
set of plugs, can of wd40 $25 (12)
mot $32 (16quid)
tax 12months on dodgy farm registration $28
lid $5 from opshop
gloves $5
so all up about $130 (65 quid) not including gas or time spent getting it running,
did over 20000miles before i sold the bike for $1000 
go the honda cx400, never broke down on me either
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I kick arse for the lord
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| Martay |
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Martay
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| Posted: 13:31 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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My second transport Honda SH50:
£102 with T+T off ebay
Insurance £78 the year
I didnt need a CBT as ive got a full ped license with my car.
Gear about ~£200
It can be done really cheaply, i think £200 all in.
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Drives: Cavalier 2.0 16v
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| kramdra |
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kramdra
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| Dullblade35 |
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Dullblade35
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 15 Oct 2011
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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| Posted: 20:32 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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| Dullblade35 wrote: | nice to know it can be done, any tips on cutting prices? |
Lower expectations!
Look around here at the posts people have bought 'bargain' bikes for under £300, they are nearly ALWAYS followed up with loads of desperation workshop posts on how to fix faults they know aren't huge, but take money they just don't have to sort.
It doesn't get much better moving up the market, and chances of trouble free or economical motorcycling dont ever get particularly great.
Roger accused me of 'loving' the YBR125 for the frequency I reccomend it; but I dont, they are merely the ecconomical conclusion to the question, cheapest way to get on the road!
Irony is you have to spend money to save money; Get a three foru year old YBR for aprox £1250 give or take, you have bike that, has best chance of not needing expensive repairs or maintenence, and working on the button every time you want to ride it; which is a years time, will sell for pretty much close to what you paid, so the cost of ownership, can be only a few hundred quid all in.
Buy an old 100cc commuter; because they are 'cheap' for £200, and you cant actually take tests on it; gives you a £70 hidden expense to hire a school bike for tests..... and then whatever it costs you to get into fettle and keep on the road....... so that after a year you can accept THAT cost to sell it on for what you paid and after a year of not having start on the kicker, having to take time out to sort niggles and find money to sort problems, can sell it on to the next geezer for £200... and have spent as much money, to have less bike, and more hassle, as buying a YBR.....
I dont reccomend getting into debt; but buying learner-bikes, its one place there is an exception.
Meanwhile? Improvised riding attire; all you legally need is a helmet, and that ought to be brand new and well fitting; BUT plenty to choose from in the under £50 bracket, and there I seriousely suggest looking at open face hats that offer slightly less crash protection, but without poor quality visors or visor mechs and venting to hamper you, tend to be more useable.
Good gloves, particularly with weather getting colder, you best not stint on. And water-proofs. Though if you know any one in industrial job, that gets 'slicker-suits' for working in an abotoir, or chemical plant, or similar that can apropriate one, big cheap point, and usually very water-proof, if a bit bulky..... I used to have bright orange one from an oil rig! Great for conspicuity too!
Sensible footwear; and raid wardrobe for layers for warmth and crash padding!
Dont 'stint' on the important bike bits; tyres, brakes, steering, suspension, and lights. Dark this time of year, and lights are pretty useful!
And dont get carried away in the 'must have' must do; expenses trying to 'improve' the bike looking for stuff to make it go faster, or look better! Always amazed at how little people will pay for a bike, but how quickly they find money for daft stuff like loud pipes, wavy discs or crash-bungs!
BUT... biggest expense?
£500 all up for a motorcycle 'on the road'..... How many miles you expect to ride on it?
Petrol is around £1.35 a liter, or £6 a gallon, and a 125... well, claims that they ought to do over 100mpg are optimistic. Good ones do, ones ridden sedately in their natural environment, 30-40 zones and never thrashed up bypasses or country lanes, may... but more typically 70mpg is the more usual, and falling the more knackered and thrashed the bike.....
So its going to cost you about 10p a mile to ride the thing, just in go-juice.
10miles per £ or 100miles for a tenner, or double your £500 budget to go 5000 miles; about what the typical commuter can reasonably expect to do in a year, traveling 100 miles a week, or 20 miles a day....... if its five miles from home to work/college thats half that mileage accounted for straight off......
So if you are struggling to find the cast to BUY a bike..... will you not struggle to find the cash to RUN it?
If you can find the cash to run it; could you NOT find that bit extra to get a better bike to begin with, and try and get a bit higher up the tree where a more expensive bike to buy, usually means a cheaper bike to own?
Best of luck..... but £500 all in; hard task..... and possibly in vein if after achieving it, unuseable becouse it needs a pair of £10 points you cant afford, or it simply has an empty petrol tank.....
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Pie-Roe |
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Pie-Roe
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| Posted: 20:39 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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I got my gt550 for 250 pounds, 6 months t+t, fully working, insured it for 135 a year.
In the same vein, I until recently wore a 35 quid gmac helmet cause it fitted better than anything in the 100-200 range. I bought a leather jacket off gmanxii off here when I first passed all those years ago that only recently I managed to destroy in a crash. Cost me 10 quid posted. Gloves I got a 12+5 P+P set off ebay of bufallo, and some 'bootie's also from ebay for 24 posted.
So
250 bike
135 insurance
35 lid
24 boots
17 gloves
10 jacket
TOTAL= 471 for 6 months riding, cost a rear tyre and a clutch cable to get mot I beleive.
Realistically, maybe add in a rear tyre, 45 quid or so, and a couple of sets of cheap over trousers @ 4 quid each, so a more real 550 for 10 months riding, sold it for 400 in the end.
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Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX |
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| kramdra |
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kramdra
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Joined: 28 Oct 2010
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| Posted: 21:10 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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Learner bikes cost more, though. You might be able to get a non runner really cheap - in which case save £100 for mot and tax, + parts...
ebay, gumtree and salvage
https://www.copart.co.uk/
example
https://www.copart.co.uk/c2/homeSearch.html?_eventId=getLot&execution=e1s6&lotId=23837731&returnPage=SEARCH_RESULTS
look at those forks. hahaha
If you really cant afford more than £500, either get a part time job or a bicycle, how far do you commute?
I will be doing 26 miles a day, when it gets icey, on a push bike. Im not risking the CBR, and Ive sold the 125.
I dont care too much that it will be bloody difficult, and cold, and it will do me good. |
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| Dullblade35 |
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Dullblade35
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 15 Oct 2011
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| Posted: 22:31 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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Never seen that site before but now its taken my interest. Only thing is as my mechanical skills are as good as my dog, it might be a problem
Here is is why i am doing this...
Currently i am commuting to university via train and bike (20min bike ride to station, 40min train ride) costing me nearly £40 a week that's just commuting and no other trips or travel. I know over winter this will be my best choice so i am looking to get set up for the new year and the better weather (hopefully). the Biking is for commuting and pleasure hobby, I enjoy projects and challenges. To bike to uni it would take 30min most depending on filtering skills and confidence.
I'm trying to see it as a investment for the next 3 years to cut down my travel cost and give me that independence to go where I want, not restricted by public transport (I live in the middle of nowhere).
I'm not a boy racer to be honest i'm looking at the commuters and cruiser style for comfort and reliability. As condition goes i'm thinking of slightly ratting it anyway to keep it uniform and simple. I know i'll have a few scraps and falls with it so not bothered with the condition as long as it runs
As for running it and buying it...to buy it i have some money set aside (the £500) and to run it will be out of my grant or loan if needs be, less than the train costs. Im looking for a job for the simple reason atm
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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| Posted: 23:37 - 20 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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How far is that commute?
20min cycle, what three miles? Then 40minutes by train, another fifteen?
Whats the direct route, you would ride?
I'm hazarding a guess, at something in the region of 20 miles, one way...
That's NOT going to be a comfortable journey on a little bike, especially if you have much main road work to cope with....
And on a bike thats a 'bit of a banger', held together with gaffer tape and preyers, a £500 all in' bike is likely to be....
You'll as like be doing a lot of pushing and or making excuses for the missed lectures!
JUST an oberservation.......
Its winter; my advice; spend your £500 on a training course and get your licence; you are likely to get a winter deal or rate.
Come Spring, when you want to start commuting by bike, as said, you can get big bikes, much more cheaply than 125 Learner-Legals.
On a hike like that, they are more comfy; better able to keep up with traffic; and tend to be a little more 'durable'. You could pick up something like a GT550 that would even have shaft drive for low maintenence demands. AND despite being bigger, over all cost could be bigger. Insurance on 125's is loaded heaviliy. My DT125 is actually 50% more to insure for me than my 750. And many more sensible 'commuters' in the big-bike brackets are likewise cheaper than 125's, simply becouse they aren't learner bikes. Again, becouse they are not learner legal, and carrying a premium, mainly becouse no-nothing newbies are want in thier eagerness to not know what they are looking at, and are eager to part with thier money for something to get on and ride, less glamourouse big bikes fetch much more realistic prices, AND being bigger, not being abused, or neglected by know nothing newbies, likely to be better looked after, while bing bigger and heavier construction, more chance of not being so hard worked or thrashed, and consequently more reliable, and cheaper to run.
Fuel is often biggest cost; as mentioned; and agaion, the notional 100mpg you get from a 125 is often not realised, and especially if you are using the little thing so far out of its comfort zone, trying to do distances on main roads, at national speed limits, it will only just attain. Here bigger bikes score and many can actually better 125 fuel consumption, working closer to thier optimum, not being thrashed so hard.
If you dont want glamourouse, and you dont want 'fast' and really DO just want cheap; about the cheapst of the cheap is the Honda CD200 Benley. Its only a tad more powerful than learner legal at 15bhp; but its a genuine 80mph motorcycle, that will hapily cruise at 60, returning 80ish mpg from its single carb frugal-motor. Its not particularly inspiring to ride, but it is comfy, and a bit heavier than most learner bikes, so stable, and confidence inspiring. But, becouse they aren't big, or glamourouse, or appealing to many full licence holders, and they are too big in the engine to ride on L-Plates, few want them, and you can buy taxed tested road ready examples for two, three hundred quid, in good serviceable condition.... and they are about as cheap to insure as anything with wheels that doesn't have pedals! You just need a licence for it.....
But, plenty of other bikes out there, that offer good VFM, and would do the job you want, and offer good value per mile.
As is, I think you are setting yourself up for an expensive and hard learned lesson in biking, trying to do it all, on a sub £500 Learner-Legal....
If it didn't have to cover the miles, or get you into uni and satisfy your attendance record, maybe not such a big deal... but in with so many miles and important miles, worth thinking on......
If you are spending £40 a week on train fares, well..... that goes a long way... OK, lets multiply that out for 30 weeks of accademic year, and you have travel bill of £1200.....
Commuting miles work out at around 5-600, which in petrol alone are going to be £500 ish, so you have £700ish of train fares to put towards motorcycle......
Over three years, presuming stable prices, Thats £2,100 saving against train fares, just getting to and from college the 3/5 of the year you are at college......
That would ALMOST buy you a brand new YBR125, you could probably get on interest free credit, and pay for with student loans as and when they come in...... paying out at what, £70 per month?, and in three years you would have a bike that was worth perhaps £1250 in todays money, so get back about half its list price, or what you are likely to have spent on Insurance and running costs in the interim....
Ie: BRAND NEW YBR125, over three years, on credit; here and now solution; costs aproximately the same as your train fares, for reliable, personal transport you can use whenever you like, ALL year, doing as many journeys as you like, wherever you like, for essentially 10p mile petrol money, overheads paid for against train fares...... AND it would be reliable...
Lets be brutal; if you spend your WHOLE £500 on a 1254 you still aren't likely to get a brilliant bike. May get a fairly recent Chinese thing, that is notoriousely unreliable from the off. Or you will be looking at Japanese bikes, well into thier dotage, past ten years old, and realistically, bikes in the 20-30 year old age group, and not concourse restored excamples; but old barn fdinds dragged out of the back of peoples sheds and if they look at all pretty, been given a couple of cans of halfords rattle can and a seat cover, rather than new chain and brake pads and a set of fork seals.
There are an awful lot of people out there ALL looking for 'cheap' 125's and unfortunately more people not wanting, or unable to spend much more, than there are bikes at that price.....
It BARELY gets you a bike with tax and test on it in the learner legal market, and you hope to find one taxed, tested and ready to ride, for half of that to leave yourself change for insurance and 'stuff'?
And THEN having got this bike, you hope to cover 200miles a week on it......cross country, not a couple of miles accross town.....
Good luck... but think hard....
Up the budget, get a tool for the job, using credit if you must; or use the work around, get a licence on school bike, buy a ';big bike' thats a more suitable tool for the job, and more easily found for the money you are proposing....
But sub £500 LEarner-Legal, for long haul, cross country commuting, for THREE YEARS?!?! Be lucky to make three days, without breakdown on a typical £300 learner legal!
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Im-a-Ridah |
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Im-a-Ridah
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| pepperami |
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pepperami
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| Posted: 17:25 - 21 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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CG125 of lovelyness = £150 no reliability problems 
Grivit helmet £40
Gardening gloves from carboot sale =£1
Work boots £15
LidL bike jacket = £45
Insurance = £100
MOT = £28
road tax £15 for the full year
under £500 not a problem .
But then I have a full license and considered old by the insurance company.
It can be done, but you will need a bit of luck to get a bike that`s not a heap of sh*t .
A bit of shopping around and waiting until the price is right = easy-peasy
EDIT : I did have to do some work to the bike to get it roadworthy but not that much
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| Dullblade35 |
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Dullblade35
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 15 Oct 2011
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| Posted: 08:29 - 23 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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Hey thanks for all the input so far Nice to know it can be done just arguing with myself if it should be done.
The route i'm taking is mainly national speed limit as i'm out of the way and is a total of 14.9 miles at 24mins which on a bike isn't too long i don't think. by the way the roads and scenery are epic over my way.
I've seen some really good deals on bike via ebay, just wish i had some mechanical know how. i suppose i'll pick it up as i go along been offered a suzuki gs 125 1984 for £250 or offer so could get it abit less. worst bit is its in Perth... ideas on transporting a bike?
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| Marmalade |
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Marmalade
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| Posted: 09:42 - 23 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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My submission and very likely to be well within £500 otr .
I bought and collected a Piaggio X9 250 yesterday after a failed theft attempt and today made a start on getting it back on the road.
The steering column was badly abused in the process of trying to break the steering lock so had to batter it enough to get the steering to turn.
https://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/bramble43/x95.jpg
https://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/bramble43/x96a.jpg
After some serious physical abuse i've got the steering lock out and hotwired the ignition to a hidden switch so it can be used until I get the replacement steering lock pieces.
https://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/bramble43/x98a.jpg
https://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/bramble43/x96.jpg
Replaced the low beam light relay, all the fuses and a headlight bulb. cleaned up battery and starter relay terminals and topped up the battery acid and it's now on the optimate.
Brake levers ordered, mirrors will be ordered in the week and a rear tyre will be done monday and then it's down for an MOT.
It's all back together now just waiting for the bits. I'm even looking forward to using it.
https://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/bramble43/x98.jpg
So, apart from the £100 i've paid for it, £36 for mirrors, £35 for 2 brake levers/masters, tank cover panel and steering lock section and a suspected £50 for a tyre, £20 for mot, £35 for tax and usually £30 to add to my insurance policy it'll be a total of £206.
All the other bits like relay and bulbs have been in the shed having probably come from previously scrapped stuff.
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