What should I be checking myself between services?

[Jamey]

I'm a mechanical dunce, but obviously I want to keep my bike running properly and since I can't afford to get it serviced every month I guess I'll have to keep on top of some of the basic stuff.

I know how to lube the chain and check the oil already.

I understand about tensioning the chain (but I haven't actually done it for the first time yet) and can do tyre pressures no problem.

But that's the limit of my current awareness.

What else will I have to do between services, and how often?

[P.addy]

Like you already stated.
Chain cleaning and tension.
Oil.
Tyres.

They are the basics of what you want to do anyway.

Might be worth checking the brake pads and fork seals every now and then for wear. Keep it clean around the engine so you can see leaks before they get bad.

[J4mes]

Brake fluid!

[Jamey]

Cheers guys.

Is there anywhere I can learn how to actually do stuff?

Reading through your replies and I actually don't even know how to change a brake pad. I think I could probably just about work out topping up brake fluid at the front but with the rear I wouldn't be so confident.

Wish I had a mate who was into all this so I could just sit and learn from them.

[J4mes]

Haynes manual probably the best bet if you don't have a mate/brother/old man around to show you!

[Efes123]

If you can, try to get a Clymer manual. They're a lot more truthful and acurate than Haynes book of lies.

I'd be checking on a regular basis:

Engine Oil
Coolant level (if applicable)
front brake - operation and fluid level
Clutch - does it need adjusting
Rear brake
tyre pressures
suspension - pushing down on the forks and watching the response
exhaust - any holes, sound

____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[whitedevil]

What bike do you ride? If you cant find a guide with google or a manual to download. Then you're going to have to buy a manual or post on here and hope someone can help.
____________________
GPZ500 sold ~ CBR600FS-2 sold ~ ZX6R sold ~ Street Triple R

[D O G]

[tahrey]

Remember the PIGS thing they told you at CBT... (er, which I can't, because I'm sure it was a longer acronym of which PIGS is just a part)

Erm.

Anyway...

Tyres - wear (and wear even-ness), inflation, anything stuck in them (PARTICULARLY in the side)... "Straightness" of wheels, too, particularly wire/spoked ones (though alloys/cast wheels can go out-of-round with a hard enough knock), and alignment if you can do it any more accurately than looking at whatever frame indicators you may have.

Brakes - strength and smoothness. Rod-actuated rears and cable fronts can be tweaked with simple adjuster nuts. Hydraulic ones usually shouldn't need adjustment between professional servicing, but keep an eye on the fluid level and occasionally see how hard you can put them on (build up gradually) on an empty, dry road.

Fuel system - no leaks etc

Oil - change it at least a little more regularly than the official spec (which is an "economy" rating that means the bike has a good chance of lasting until the warranty runs out), keep an eye out for leaks.
If you have a pushrod engine, check the valve clearance at least every other oil change.
Also replace or clean off the air filter at each change, and at least check / consider changing the spark plug(s) and lead(s) every other time. (I've been lucky enough to get through a LOT of oil changes with the same, quite possibly immortal sparkplug and HT lead so far )

Suspension - rust on the tubes, creaky springs, uneven or stodgy motion. Adjustment if you start/stop carrying cargo or pillions, or are otherwise putting weight on it that's out of line with where it's adjusted.

Chain - tension, lubrication. Adjustment for mine is a matter of slackening off the axle bolt a bit, loosening the adjuster locknuts, then tweaking them by an equal amount each side, regularly checking how tight it feels, then torquing the axle bolt up when it's within the specified range (and double checking).

Basic wheel alignment can be sorted this way as well - tighten it up, very gradually, on the side the wheel is pointing AWAY from. (Note: may not apply to different bikes )

Steering yoke - does it feel weird? Loose, notchy?

Wheel bearings - if the bike wanders or feels unstable, make sure the wheels feel firm on their axle and between the forks, not able to be displaced side to side by hand (or up & down without affecting the suspension), etc.

Clutch - adjustment of cable so it both bites and releases properly, and oil it too (some lightweight bike oil squirted down inside the cable guard, and then pump the lever and leave it overnight). Convince yourself whether the gear shift is A-OK or if you're just tolerating it

Lights - do they all turn on and off properly (inc hi/lo beam, side/tail, indicators, brake, instruments)? Flash at the right speed if applicable?

Stands - alignment, stability

Exhaust - noise, holes, rust...

Pegs - state of the rubber, whether the pillion ones flip up and down properly (thick lube may be in order to keep the latter working right, according to the copper who stopped me for a random check, but didn't quite spot how dry they were before I knackered one)

Also, give it a good clean now and then, it's therapeutic, stops you looking like a bum, and forces you to get up close and personal, so you may spot things you'd miss in everyday use.


Anyhoo... it's a big list to be sure, but usually you'll tell if something is seriously "off", as riding is a very visceral thing. This is just a checklist you may want to run through every few months (or more often, for things like the tyres, lights and brake fluid) to give it a decent amateur assessment of its state of repair.