chad149
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 20 Oct 2011
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bub2006
Nova Slayer
Joined: 20 Aug 2011
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chad149
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 20 Oct 2011
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bub2006
Nova Slayer
Joined: 20 Aug 2011
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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 Posted: 09:22 - 21 Oct 2011  Post subject: |
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Rotor.
You need a pulling tool of some sort. You'd need to know the thread size.
A quick google suggests it to be an M24x1.0 Right hand thread (assuming google can be relied upon, could be wrong).
In which case THIS ONE ought to fit.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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| Posted: 09:57 - 21 Oct 2011 Post subject: Re: removing rota from engine |
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| chad149 wrote: | can anyone help how can i remove the rota from a speedfight 2 lc looked on line and the tools are really expenisive |
Nope, becouse I have never worked on a sppedfighter.
However, the 'tool' is normally a flywheel puller, that screws into a thread in the rotor, and has a bolt down the middle you tighten to pull it off the taper on the crank.
Here you are; here's the one for my Montesa, screwed into the Motoplat Fly-Wheel:-
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/071_A_002_Tools/puller.jpg
Not so wonderfully clear, but gives the idea. bit that looks like a pipe fitting, screws into thread in the flywheel, around where the rotor nut sits. Once you have it well in the threads, and its a large, fine thread, so screw it in CAREFULLY as they are easy to strip, and being fine, make sure you screw it ALL the way in, or with only a couple of threads engaged and such thin threads you'll pull them out the flywheel, not pull the flywheel off the crank! (TIP: remove the bolt down the middle before you screw it into the rotor to make sure you bottom extractor in rotor threads and dont go only half way and start trying to screw the extraction bolt against the end of the crank)... once the pipe fitting like bit is screwed all the way in, you can put the extractor bolt into it; hold the pipe fitting bit with a big spanner or pipe wrench and then wind the extractor bolt in against end of crank with a regular spanner. Makes job dead simple, and a lot easier than trying to beat the flywheel with a hammer, or grip it with the claw of a hub puller, or hold it still while you twist anything around it.... you just need to hold pipe wrench and turn it against the spanner, and fly wheel just pops off.... usually.
They are normally about a tenner or so, unless you are looking at generic or universal flywheel puller kits that have numerouse adaptors to fit different flywheels, which are typically around £30 or £40... which I dont deem ultra 'expensive' for a specialised tool, that can give years of good service and be used many many times, for less than cost of getting independent mechanic to do no more than 'have a look' and charge an hours shop rate for the privilidge!
So either your idea of 'expensive' is different to mine, or you are looking at an anomolouse one, where the puller is a part specific, available only from dealers kind of thing.
In which case, or perhaps in any case, alternative solution, I have used where flywheels have been so tightly wedged on the crank they wont come off even with propper puller, is to pop round my local engine reconditioners, who for a fiver in the beer-fund, will put the thing in a hudraulic press for me and use whatever jigging they find most appropriate to apply gross, but evenly applied force to hoik the thing off for me.... actually, thinking about it, last time they did two for a fiver, for me....
CB125 Flywheels actually that hapily don't need a special puller, just I think its an M14 bolt that screws in the middle of the flywheel and pressed against the end of the crank to press it off, giving moments jubilation, then hours of frustration hunting a suitable sized bolt, until after trying everything lying around, or screwed into other pullers, ball-joint extractors etc, even wheel and swing arm spindles, you admit defeat, and discover that the only place you can GET that size of bolt is at Screw-Fix, they are stainless, and come in packs of five, for something daft like £12, making it just as expensive as a special puller...... and after going to screwfix, and waiting twenty minutes for the Argos reject to process your ticket, and arthritic Focus redundancy candidate to find a set of ladders, slide them along the racking, consult teh Health & Safety clipboard to ensure they have observed protocol, and watched enviousely as an octagenerian spritely clambers up the ladders at one rung per hour... jelouse that at twice my age they can still CLIMB a ladder at all.... you get bolt, get home and find that the ruddy flywheel STILL wont come off the crank, due to an over tightened rotor nut at some point, and twenty years of corrosion! But I digress!
These days I use a company just up the road, in Nuneaton called Cylinder Rebores, who are very helpful, but over the years used many, in different towns; most have at least one that will do odd jobs like this for beer money, you just have to seek them out. Not always an engine reconditioners; some times they are tool-makers, or even back-street car repair shops.... if you cant find anything obviouse in yellow pages or Yell.com, in your district, then call local garages, ask around... that's how I found Cylinder Rebores... reccomended to me by bloke that MOT'd the ex's car....
BTW its a generator ROTOR, as in the bit that rotates around a STATOR that stays stationary in the middle, reletive movement making electricity.
ROTA would be a repeating list of people's assignments, as in a washing up rota or a holiday rota....
Which did lead me to consider some teniouse pun about 'timing' as generally want to get flywheel rotors off to change or adjust points hidden behind them, which control spark timing... ignition timing - rota interval.... suggests a time based pun...... but... I cant think of one, so I am defeated, and you get away sarcasm free!
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