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| BIKEVIDDER |
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 BIKEVIDDER Scooby Slapper
Joined: 06 Nov 2011 Karma :     
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| Wafer_Thin_Ham |
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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

Joined: 18 Nov 2005 Karma :    
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:18 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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Knowing your ultimate braking performance is handy for track racing, sure.
But on the public roads, braking distance is largely down to the instant road conditions - surface, temperature, oil, water, ice, gravel, leaves, kittens - so any information that you got from your stoppies is largely moot.
Under normal riding, you'll slow down fairly gently. In an emergency, you'll haul on the brakes and either stop or not. In neither situation are you likely to say "Well, I think I can stop in X yards under full braking, so I'll delay braking until I'm X away from the hazard".
Of course, that doesn't apply to hoons using the public road as a racetrack, but then again I don't really mind if they end up inserted in a tree as a consequence of misjudging the braking point.  ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| G |
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 G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 10:44 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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| Rogerborg wrote: | Knowing your ultimate braking performance is handy for track racing, sure.
But on the public roads, braking distance is largely down to the instant road conditions - surface, temperature, oil, water, ice, gravel, leaves, kittens - so any information that you got from your stoppies is largely moot. |
He said stoppie or lock. A good tyre will still stoppie in most dry conditions, so it is rather relevant.
Most standard bikes with decent brakes and decent tyres should be able to stop at around 1g; so 60-0 in 3 seconds.
As for track racing; sadly there isn't some magic anti-slippery-surface coating on tracks, so they also suffer from all the same things roads do and you need to be aware of those.
Of course if you've got tyres that don't offer good grip on the roads, you're going to be having to pay even more attention.
I tend to use a wheelie to test grip, what with not crashing if it slides, which is a tad more likely to happen with harsh braking.
I will also tend to do a few low stoppies on a new bike - this way I'm also in tune with the braking force needed to get maximum braking. |
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| BIKEVIDDER |
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 BIKEVIDDER Scooby Slapper
Joined: 06 Nov 2011 Karma :     
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| Acemastr |
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 Acemastr World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 Oct 2008 Karma :  
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 Posted: 13:43 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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| G wrote: | | Rogerborg wrote: | Knowing your ultimate braking performance is handy for track racing, sure.
But on the public roads, braking distance is largely down to the instant road conditions - surface, temperature, oil, water, ice, gravel, leaves, kittens - so any information that you got from your stoppies is largely moot. |
He said stoppie or lock. A good tyre will still stoppie in most dry conditions, so it is rather relevant.
Most standard bikes with decent brakes and decent tyres should be able to stop at around 1g; so 60-0 in 3 seconds.
As for track racing; sadly there isn't some magic anti-slippery-surface coating on tracks, so they also suffer from all the same things roads do and you need to be aware of those.
Of course if you've got tyres that don't offer good grip on the roads, you're going to be having to pay even more attention.
I tend to use a wheelie to test grip, what with not crashing if it slides, which is a tad more likely to happen with harsh braking.
I will also tend to do a few low stoppies on a new bike - this way I'm also in tune with the braking force needed to get maximum braking. |
You say this, I am quite hard on my brakes(front tyre has less tread than the rear ) and i've never managed a stoppie, I'm on a set of pilot road 2's, and although they are beautifully grippy, i can't trust them enough to really pull the brake enough to make it stoppie, i've never done one and simply can't see how people do it! ____________________ 2017 KTM 350 XC-F - 2014 Yamaha R6 - 2005 Yamaha YZ125
2016 Toyota Tacoma Limited |
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| G |
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 G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| banditjohn |
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 banditjohn Nova Slayer
Joined: 11 Jun 2011 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:32 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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I've found it best to ride defensively and yes I know you still get them , but if you ride like that and within your limits your not asking for trouble. I take every driver as an idiot and there going to do the last thing you could possibly think of, and your be as safe as the next tw@t that pulls out on you . |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 15:34 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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| G wrote: | He said stoppie or lock. |
Ham said that, I was replying to the OP though.
Sorry, I should have been clearer. I do actually agree that it's a very smart and sensible idea to practice braking, it's just that I'd question the extent.
Yes, you should always test the brakes on a new bike, after tyre and brake changes, and give a good haul shortly after setting off on each journey.
But given the many factors that effect braking - as above, plus deterioration in pads, discs, tyres, hoses and fluid - I think that investing significant ongoing time into exploring specific limits and behaviour so that you're primed to react optimally is something best left to serious track or road racers.
For the rest of us, harsh braking is and should be a very rare occurrence and time spent screeching around an industrial estate has to come from somewhere. I can't think of anything I'd give up in order to do it. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| G |
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 G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 15:43 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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While I was going on about racers having the same thing, the majority of the time in dry conditions, it's purely a case of braking as hard as needed. Wet conditions are a mystic science that at club level at least very few are that competent at (based on me not being that amazing and at least on the SV not doing worse than normal in wet races .)
Getting used to what brake is achievable in good conditions doesn't take long at all and is very easy. Keep braking harder each time until you find the rear is no longer in contract with the ground . |
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| lihp |
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 lihp World Chat Champion
Joined: 22 Sep 2010 Karma :   
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| BIKEVIDDER |
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 BIKEVIDDER Scooby Slapper
Joined: 06 Nov 2011 Karma :     
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 G The Voice of Reason
Joined: 02 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| Dazbo666 |
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 Dazbo666 World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:13 - 11 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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When riding solo on a quiet road I occasionally "test" the brakes to have an idea of what they're capable of, and thankfully they're able to stop the bike significantly quicker than I normally would 99% of the time.
Obviously it's that other 1% that can make all the difference, but 20+ years of road experience and a healthy sense of self preservation means that the brakes are very rarely used to their full capability. ____________________ 1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF |
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| The Shaggy D.A. |
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 The Shaggy D.A. Super Spammer

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| crackfinder |
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 crackfinder Crazy Courier

Joined: 05 Jul 2009 Karma :  
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| crackfinder |
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 crackfinder Crazy Courier

Joined: 05 Jul 2009 Karma :  
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 72 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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