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2000 Honda Hornet running very rough, Please help!

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alun111
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PostPosted: 02:25 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: 2000 Honda Hornet running very rough, Please help! Reply with quote

Hi,

My 2000 hornet has been stood for approx a year and a half, due to rebuilding it (problems with the painter).

Anyway.... It's been together for about 6 months now, but is on paddock stands in the garage as have no wheels. I've been starting it up every few weeks until it gets hot (i'm starting to think maybe TOO hot). It runs like a bit of a pig at first but clears it's throat after 5 mins or so and then I've been leaving it til it goes well up on the temp guage to get the oil nice and hot and circulate around the engine. I fear this may have done some damage.

I've been using an old coolant bottle as fuel tank.

I went to start her up the other day and left it on choke for a minute, and it didn't sound quite right. I left it on choke however until it warmed up a bit more, and when I turned the choke off it still sounded rough as hell!

I've not had a single problem with the way it's running since it's been back together, apart from the initial roughness until it clears it's throat.

Things I've tried:

-Swapped the spark plugs back to my old ones (just in case)
-Checked for a spark on all four
-Checked that all downpipes are getting hot
-Tested the throttle position sensor with the help of the PDF manual
-Stripped and cleaned my carbs (not balanced yet) as I thought maybe crap had entered them from the makeshift fuel tank
-Fitted an inline fuel filter to the makeshift fuel tank due to the above
-Bought new fuel and used that
-Ran it without the air filter (no difference)
-Checked the choke isn't sticking
-Checked the charging circuit is working and the battery terminal bolts are clean and tight

The battery has pretty much been on an optimate style charger since the start of the rebuild, so that's fine.

I'm wondering whether to go and purchase a compression tester (shitting myself if this is the problem - the bike starts fine though so could it still be this?)

Youtube Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gsiy8o1W2g4

Please PLEASE help in any way you can, any suggestions welcome. Thanks!
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Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70
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Frost
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PostPosted: 03:05 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air leak around the carbs? Spray something flamable around them and see if the revs pick up a bit.
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BigGeeking
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Joined: 07 Jun 2011
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PostPosted: 03:08 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

could be fella that it just need a good run and not on idle but under load take it easy at first then wring in fooking neck Razz
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honda CG 125 2001 SOLD-- current Bandit 400--SOLD. current SV650s 2000
MOD 1 ON 20/7/2011**passed** MOD 2 ON 17/10/2011***passed***,,
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alun111
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PostPosted: 03:49 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frost wrote:
Air leak around the carbs? Spray something flamable around them and see if the revs pick up a bit.


It's been fine for approx 6 months though, until recently - so I can't see it being this. Had the carbs off and then on again since the problem arised too.
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Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
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Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70
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Benson_JV
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

alun111 wrote:
Frost wrote:
Air leak around the carbs? Spray something flamable around them and see if the revs pick up a bit.


It's been fine for approx 6 months though, until recently - so I can't see it being this. Had the carbs off and then on again since the problem arised too.


Could be that you made a small split in the carb rubbers though when you last pulled them off?
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Riding: CBR600FW Driving: Audi A6
Previous Bikes: '96 Bandit 600, '96 GPz305
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had similar running problems with mine, it was leaky inlet rubbers.
However in your case, I'd hazard a guess that it needs a good blast, under load.
Can't say I believe in the "start it occasionally school of thought", if it's laid up.
What benefits do you think it has?
IMO your doing it more harm than good!
There is no way you're getting the oil up to normal running temperature, to do that you'd need to ride it for around 10 miles.
Remove the battery, rebuild it, when it's finished take it for a spin and start from there!
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alun111
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Benson_JV wrote:
Could be that you made a small split in the carb rubbers though when you last pulled them off?


I haven't had the carbs off for 6 months, and every time I've started it since it's run fine, just this one occasion it runs like crap. I pulled the carbs off yesterday to try and solve the problem.
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Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70
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alun111
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
Had similar running problems with mine, it was leaky inlet rubbers.
However in your case, I'd hazard a guess that it needs a good blast, under load.
Can't say I believe in the "start it occasionally school of thought", if it's laid up.
What benefits do you think it has?
IMO your doing it more harm than good!
There is no way you're getting the oil up to normal running temperature, to do that you'd need to ride it for around 10 miles.
Remove the battery, rebuild it, when it's finished take it for a spin and start from there!


To be honest with you... I've only done this to keep fuel running through the jets in the carbs, and to lubricate the cylinders.

I suppose it's not really necessary for the later though.

Could I have cracked the cylinders or heat seized the pistons to them by running it rather hot every time I have run it? I'm worrying about this...
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Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70
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Frost
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

When running on low revs, or even revved a bit water cooled bikes will be fine. You can leave it running till the radiator fan comes on or even longer.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

alun111 wrote:
Could I have cracked the cylinders or heat seized the pistons to them by running it rather hot every time I have run it? I'm worrying about this...


Very doubtful.
If I was taking a bike off the road for a long period I'd remove the battery, (as long as you've got no alarms or such like to worry about), and drain the float bowls, assuming it's got carbs.

Inlet rubbers go brittle and crack after a period of time, it's as simple as that.
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alun111
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 08 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your assuring words guys!

After talking to a mate, I have something I need to look at..

When I resprayed the engine, I also removed the pair valve mounted to the front. I blanked the holes off with metal plate and used the old graphite (I think) gaskets underneath. If these plates have warped with the heat, or the gaskets have failed this would indeed create a massive vacuum leak!

I'm going to be looking at this next week, so will keep you all informed!

Thanks again
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Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70
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