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Codemonkey |
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Codemonkey Crazy Courier
Joined: 18 Oct 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 09:23 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Looking good
One thing that would be worth double checking before you finish is the operating temperature range of the LCD module. Some of them have pretty low minimum temperatures and just turn black when they drop below them. Might be worth bunging it in the freezer for an hour to check it!
Also make sure you add some sort of voltage spike protection to the power supply input. Chances are there will be some nasty spikes that get coupled into the power supply lines, a transorb or similar with a resettable in line fuse is a good start.
____________________ Test Passed 10/05/2011 Current bike: XJ6-N |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 10:18 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Codemonkey wrote: | interesting stuff |
Nominal temperature range is -40C to 85C, and I don't think we're going to get too many Siberian winters on the trot, so it should be OK. I'm liking the fuse/power smoothing suggestions, though, and I will look into them. THe board's got a certain amount of power regulation and surge protection built in, but given that most of the inputs from the bike are going to have to be stepped down from 12V to 5V anyway, it won't hurt to include some kind of surge protection alongside that, I guess.
Also, to go back a post or two, the ECU thing is just an idea - don't go taking it as gospel at the moment. I genuinely have no clue as to whether or not I could code an ECU, and I'm not about to find out. At least, not until I've gotten this sorted.
There was a guy who wrote the beginnings of an ECU with an arduino board, for an SV650 weirdly enough. He struggled to get the injector timings right, though, so I'm not sure how well-suited the arduino is to the job. ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 11:00 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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steven_191 wrote: | I'm not 100% sure on what all this lot is but I'm 99% sure that I want to play with it. Its far to close to what I do at work for me not to be interested.
The only difference will be the code and what it controls.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Your sending inputs from sensors or digital inputs in and writing code to deal with it, calculations etc, then sending it out to the display? What, other than the display, will you be using as an output?
And yes do something with the GPS. And while your at it, add a remote start from your phone. |
You're correct - what I'm really doing is just re-presenting all of the data from a bunch of sensors.
Outputs; the only ones will be an SD card, and the screen itself. I have no idea what currently goes on between the stock dash and the ecu - I know that error codes are handled, and that you can synch the throttle bodies between the two of them, but I genuinely don't know how that data is presented, or how it is initiated as a process. I have a spare ECU, but if someone has a spare stock gen2 SV dash that I can hack up, I'd be appreciative. I'm intending to keep my one intact, for when I come to sell the bike.
GPS, that's not difficult. All I'm intending to do is to record the position every few seconds or so, although this may end up expanding a bit, if I decide to include a gyro sensor and accelerometer. DIY telemetry box
Remote start from the phone isn't going to happen, though - I've already got the option for that with my alarm, and I deliberately didn't hook it up, because it negates the inbuilt immobiliser, and that would be a Bad Thing. ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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rac3r |
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rac3r World Chat Champion
Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Karma :
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Posted: 18:24 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Awesome!
Will it play movies? ____________________ Bikes : 2006 CBR125R - 2004 Monster 620ie - 2004 ZX-6R B1H - 2005 Monster S2R 800 - 2011 Street Triple - 2009 Streetfighter 1098 - 2014 ZX-6R 636
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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Posted: 19:28 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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OK - I'm not sure what kind of coolant temperature sensor the SV uses. Does anyone know if it's a digital sensor, or an analogue one?
I don't really want to gut my one, and I'm not sure if I can afford one off ebay - I haven't had a proper look around yet.
In other news, it looks like it might be possible to do a semi-accurate fuel gauge.
Based on a combination of mpg reading, and the fact that the SV has two tiers of fuel warning, I can mark the point where there's ~25 miles left, and ~10 miles left with a nigh-guaranteed level of precision (obviously, leaning the bike over can mess with the readings, though). Using the mpg calculation determined by the previous averaged readings, and a typical baseline, I can give a rough estimate as to the fuel level, which can be used as a 'fuzzy' gauge. It won't account for riding style, or actual road conditions, so there's no way it'll be seriously accurate, but it's a start, and with some clever maths can be coerced into being a convincing fake. ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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Clanger |
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Clanger Stirrer
Joined: 27 May 2004 Karma :
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 21:08 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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I now have a very rough breadboard diagram to show, with most of the wiring in place. This is using the standard arduino board, and there are just enough inputs for me to use.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6500808629_a74d593cf7_z.jpg
Unfortunately, the program I used to generate this doesn't have all the necessary graphical objects to properly represent what I'm using. The ST7565 is the display, the GPS is, well, the GPS - here's what it actually looks like:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6500886855_308d6934ac_z.jpg
...and the datalogger is a 'shield' that looks like this:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6500833093_622aa1d25f_z.jpg
It sits directly on top of the arduino board, and it's compatible with the mega, as well, if I decide to change over to that.
The bank of empty sockets in the upper middle of that board is where I'm going to mount the majority of the extra hardware. All that needs to sit on there is the HEF4050BP and the four resistors, with enough space for the outgoing leads. It does all fit, with room to spare, unbelievably. It will, however, be very visually confusing if I don't get any coloured wires in time - all I have at the moment is black...
The observant (or cynical) among you may well have noticed that I've made no mention of where the inputs from the bike are going. Well, there's a reason for that - I'm not 100% sure on which inputs will provide a digital or analogue signal. I don't have a 'spare' instrument cluster to hand, and I'm loath to start hacking mine apart. What I may do is hook up my pocket oscilloscope in line with the current connections, and try to work out what sort of data's going on there. If it does all turn out to be digital, then I need to start to look for ways to minimise the pin use. If there's an easy way of consolidating the three LED lines (digital pins 4,3 and 2), then I'm all ears.
:edit: - panic over, it turns out that the analogue pins can double up as digital pins, so I'm covered. Sweet!. Now to just get on with it... ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project
Last edited by nowhere.elysium on 21:20 - 12 Dec 2011; edited 1 time in total |
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steven_191 |
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steven_191 Nearly there...
Joined: 31 May 2009 Karma :
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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CHR15 |
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CHR15 Turbo nutter bastard
Joined: 14 Jun 2008 Karma :
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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CHR15 |
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CHR15 Turbo nutter bastard
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steven_191 |
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steven_191 Nearly there...
Joined: 31 May 2009 Karma :
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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Posted: 21:59 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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CHR15 wrote: | tacho will just count coil pulses high / low (if its this negative edge seems to give a cleaner signal)
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That's what I thought. Cool - I've got something I can work with to get useful numbers out of that.
CHR15 wrote: |
is the speedo on the output shaft? if it is, it'll be a hall or vr sensor. probably hall. it will count high / low in a time period then divide by pulses / rev you need to work out the shaft revs / road speed |
Nope, it's on the front wheel hub. There're three wires coming from it, which suggests a hall effect sensor to me, but I wouldn't have asked if I knew the answer
CHR15 wrote: |
temp will just be a thermistor you need to remove it and measure the resistance at various water temps to build a values table.
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That makes sense, and was the conclusion I was slowly getting to.
CHR15 wrote: | fuel sender is as you say a variable resistor. use a 1/3 potential divider, and measure the resistance whilst holding the sensor in various positions to build a values table. although... you might end up with very small values at one end of the scale. |
Fortunately, Someone else has done it already.
However, this does continue my previous question - how can I step down the voltage so it's safe for my 5V board, without losing the detail of the signal? As I've said before, I'm not spectacularly well-versed in the arcane world of electronics. ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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CHR15 |
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CHR15 Turbo nutter bastard
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CHR15 |
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CHR15 Turbo nutter bastard
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Posted: 22:58 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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^^
just had a chat with my dad and he said a potential divider would work fine, the resolution would be limited only by the accuracy of whatever reading the signal.
however... your digital pick up would probably be alot more susceptible to voltage variation than a mechanical gauge.
cant think how to explain exactly what i mean.... but you'll probably want a voltage reg on the feed to the sensors so the variable charging voltage doesn't affect the outputs. ____________________ Turbocharged drag thing / project death weapon / GK73A
Ste: I'm not entirely sure how you'd go about verbally abusing someone with a potato but I'm sure it's possible. |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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Posted: 23:06 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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CHR15 wrote: | or you could just disconnect the sensor from the stock loom, buy a matching plug and run 5v through the sensor in the tank. |
If that'll work, then sod it, I'll go for that. Gotta find it on the wiring diagram first, though
I'm notsure if it's run through the ECU first, or just goes straight to the dash. Hoping it just goes straight to the dash.
From the wiring diagram, the acronyms I have to choose from are:
TP sensor (I'm thinking throttle position)
IAT sensor
IAP sensor
ECT sensor (electro-convulsive therapy?)
STP sensor
TO sensor
Thoughts, anyone? I can't really strip the bike down to check where stuff goes on the loom at the moment, unfortunately. ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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steven_191 |
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steven_191 Nearly there...
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steven_191 |
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steven_191 Nearly there...
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Posted: 23:43 - 12 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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Posted: 00:00 - 13 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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steven_191 |
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steven_191 Nearly there...
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Charlie |
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Charlie World Chat Champion
Joined: 27 May 2007 Karma :
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Posted: 01:16 - 13 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Are you planning on creating your own PCB? You will have probably already heard of it, but Eagle is free and annoyingly shite until you get used to the tricks of it.
I'd also be pretty doubtful for the amount of digital signals you'll find in the system. You'll probably be able to get away with using the digital read pins for the signals going to the bulbs. But the other sensors will either be variable voltage or current so you'll need to use ADCs on these.
Have a look at optocouplers too, they'll give you isolation between a potentially high voltage noisy circuit which could damage your lower voltage Arduino.
The potential divider method will also work well if you can establish the maximum voltage output by the sensor. Then use some decoupling capacitors to remove the high frequency parts (noise).
Or you could also look at using diodes to clamp the voltage... although I forgotten how this works exactly, it's in my notes somewhere. ____________________ Past: Honda x8rs, Honda City fly, Honda Hornet 250, Honda VFR750, Yamaha xt600e.
Current: Honda CBR929RR & Yamaha XT660Z Tenere |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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Posted: 10:15 - 13 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Incidentally, once the electronics side of this is ironed out, I'm considering the idea of selling complete dash units, if there's enough interest. I'll need to work out pricing, but there's no reason why it would be particularly expensive. Should be far cheaper than the other offerings on the market, at elsat ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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Charlie |
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Charlie World Chat Champion
Joined: 27 May 2007 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 188 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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