Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


interference fit sleeve

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:31 - 13 Dec 2011    Post subject: interference fit sleeve Reply with quote

I'm putting an r1 front end on the mito. I need to make a sleeve to put on the mito yoke stem then this will fit the r1 bottom yoke.

Measurements for the sleeve are
OD 30.30mm
ID 26.15mm
Length (to be determined) probably around 20-25mm

So its not too thick as you can see. I was thinking making it out of brass as I have some brass and it won't rust. Right?

Or should make use something else?

I want the sleeve to be an interference fit onto the stem. It will have a step out at the bottom to stop the stem pulling through the sleeve and to stop the sleeve pulling through the yoke.
I plan to leave the stem in the freezer and heat up the brass or whatever sleeve and slot them together them put that in the freezer and heat the bottom yoke. Should go nicely.

Any suggestions on metals will be handy. I just don't want to use something that will need protection against the elements. I know brass goes a bit shitty over time but its not rust is it? I don't want it plate because that will mean compensating when making the sleeve etc. I think that standard parts are hardened and get quench during which would explain why they are a darker colour and mostly rust free
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:55 - 13 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steel stem, alloy yoke and brass spacer? Don't do that!

https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:05 - 13 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn I was hoping that wouldn't apply here. Suppose I'll have to go with steel then. Probably a high carbon.

I could use gold Laughing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:49 - 13 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

steven_191 wrote:
Damn I was hoping that wouldn't apply here. Suppose I'll have to go with steel then. Probably a high carbon.

I could use gold Laughing


There's a few ways you could tackle this:

Make a new spindle is the first thing that comes to mind. Steel or alloy will do. Loads of bikes have alloy stems and you could then weld it on.

Weld up the spindle, turn the weld down for a press-fit

Weld up the spindle, turn it down and thread it and the yoke. Loctite into place.

Shrink or press on a steel sleeve, turn it down for a press/threaded fit.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts
Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:38 - 13 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Isn't the R1 front end a bit big/wide/heavy for the Mito?


Its lighter than the mitos actually. Its going along with a ktm engine so I want the extra braking and function of a better front end. Lso the rear wheel is from a cbr so the wheels will be more matching as opposed to bigger rear and original 110 on the front. I can play around a bit with tyres to find the best suit.

I think I'll go with the fit an oversized steel sleeve then turn it down. Seems more logical before making a new stem altogether. Don't like the idea of alloy only because the mito stem is noticeable thinner throughout but then again its amazing how much stress the steel can really handle.

I might also heat it up and quench it for a bit of added rust protection. I'm pretty sure it will never be maintained once it in. It will only be the top and bottom edge on sure but rust isn't good on any amount of metal.

I've got a spare anyway should anything go tits up.

Cheers Thumbs Up
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:39 - 13 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't make a hollow alloy one - make it solid. Stems are mostly in shear that's why they are waisted and the bearing seat is thicker. The tensile loads are not very high.

I've got some reclaimed alloy balustrade rods that are a nice quality alloy, not some gummy crap though I obviously don't know the grade. I think the biggest should be big enough for your stem.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:00 - 14 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

the only issue i can see then with the ally is that the top nut on the r1 gear is quite thin so there wont be much thread to grip.

if i were to put the thread on the inside i can see it being a complete ball ache the get that cut in, fine thread, very precise.

if i use the one i already have, ive got the fixing to suit it. ill go with this for now and i think it should work out ok. otherwise there will be another thread coming.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

kestrel
Nearly there...



Joined: 04 Sep 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:32 - 14 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
steven_191 wrote:
Damn I was hoping that wouldn't apply here. Suppose I'll have to go with steel then. Probably a high carbon.

I could use gold Laughing


There's a few ways you could tackle this:

Make a new spindle is the first thing that comes to mind. Steel or alloy will do. Loads of bikes have alloy stems and you could then weld it on.

Weld up the spindle, turn the weld down for a press-fit

Weld up the spindle, turn it down and thread it and the yoke. Loctite into place.

Shrink or press on a steel sleeve, turn it down for a press/threaded fit.


It's not advisable to build up steel steering stems with weld, they are usually made from EN24T which is very susceptable to hydrogen induced cracking if not welded correctly.
____________________
Isle of Man.........Road Racing Capital Of The World
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:41 - 14 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
It's not advisable to build up steel steering stems with weld, they are usually made from EN24T which is very susceptable to hydrogen induced cracking if not welded correctly.


Fair play for that Kestrel. Welding metallurgy isn't a topic I know a whole lot about.

Quote:
the only issue i can see then with the ally is that the top nut on the r1 gear is quite thin so there wont be much thread to grip.

if i were to put the thread on the inside i can see it being a complete ball ache the get that cut in, fine thread, very precise.

if i use the one i already have, ive got the fixing to suit it. ill go with this for now and i think it should work out ok. otherwise there will be another thread coming.


Are you sure that the spindle is long enough to reach through the R1 top yoke? how about the hole size - presumably if the bottom is thinner then the top will be too?
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:09 - 14 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Mito stem will be a bit slack inside the r1 top yoke so the easiest option is to just make a suitable washer/spacer to fill the gap. The mito nut goes on a thread inside the stem and has a large overhang. That should cover most of it.

I may look into fixing it solid to the yoke but that will mean interference press fit or weld.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:49 - 15 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I make this sleeve and heat it up to put it on the stem and let it cool down then machine it, would I be able to heat it up again and quench it in oil for some rust protection? The stem already looks like its been hardened or quench due to its dark colour. It do t think I'll be causing any issues by heating it up again would I?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:14 - 15 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I LOL when I hear, read, am told to "put metal in the freezer to shrink fit".

Interference fits are VERY tight fits.
It is more of a crush or compression fit.
After fitting the internal part could possible even need re-tooling to maintain the designed fit of the parts it will carry.
This can be worked out by calculation before hand.

https://www.ameritherm.com/PDFs/shrinkfitcalcs.pdf

Steel will only shrink about 0.002" per Inch super cooled to -200 Deg C.

To Shrink fit you would need a temperature well below that of the fridge or deep-freeze in the house for it to be of any significant value.
If the part fits by this alone then it would easily be a low pressure press fit.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

bwprice100
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 11 Dec 2011
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:22 - 15 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

.
In my old toolmaker days we used to use liquid Nitrogen to shrink fit steel pillars int press tool sets.
Worked a treat but fun to play with; have you ever seen a rubber hose shatter. Smile
____________________
www.eBolt.co.uk www.ToolRoomChucks.co.uk
My bikes 1956 BMW R26 250cc, !981 BMW R80 (was a TIC ex plod), 1994 R100RT, sold my 1981 Yam XS 250
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:34 - 15 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

bwprice100 wrote:
.
In my old toolmaker days we used to use liquid Nitrogen to shrink fit steel pillars int press tool sets.
Worked a treat but fun to play with; have you ever seen a rubber hose shatter. Smile


It is seen or regarded as one of those very, very, very dangerous things to work with.

We would lift hand-fulls of it out the bucket we used to freeze bits in with our bare hands to throw at each other..... Rolling Eyes

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leidenfrost_effect

Danger is Fun.

Shocked
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 14 years, 211 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.11 Sec - Server Load: 1.92 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 92.71 Kb