recent South Africa jaunt (PICTURE HEAVY)

Maruchino · Spanner Monkey Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Karma :

Another trip to add to the 2011 list, lucked out a bit on this one..

Work sent me to Johannesburg, South Africa for a week. I extended my stay for an extra week and managed to get 5 days touring the Western Cape and along the Garden Route by bike.

What follows is my journey. I didn't have much time to plan, but still managed to get a fair amount packed in.

All of my trip photos will(give me a couple of days(!) be up online at; https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/ . This includes the Jo'burg week, a couple of days in Cape Town where I hired a car and then all the motorbike touring days. I won't bore you here with the non-bike tour parts, although there are some excellent photos if you have an idea of visiting South Africa it will give you some great ideas of what it's like.

Ok here goes..

Rented a bike with panniers + crash helmet from the very helpful chap Craig at https://www.motorbikehire.co.za (based in Somerset West, a few km's east of Cape Town. He rents Yamaha XT660Z's (like I took) and also the spangly Yamaha 1200 Tenere. He will take you on a tour of your choice for a very reasonable fee. I would certainly recommend this chap if you are in the Western Cape and need to rent a bike or want someone to show you the best routes. He even picked me up from the airport then dropped me back in Cape Town centre!

The idea was not to go on a tour this time, but to go it alone. Mainly because of budget, but also because I didn't really know better. If I had the money next time (I really do hope there will be a next time!) I would do a tour with Craig - he knows his onions.

The outline of my route was something like this;
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/route.JPG
Red = Day 1 (75% tarmac, 25% gravel)
Blue = Day 2 (100% tarmac)
Pink = Day 3 (25% tarmac, 75% gravel)
Green = Day 4 (100% tarmac)
Aqua = Day 5 (100% tarmac)

Okay.. onto the trip.. DAY ONE

Craig's in-law's place where we finally got my CC company to admit they understood I wanted to spend their money in Africa.
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/001.jpg

Unveiling the XT, inviting scenery
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/002.jpg

Views from the pool deck
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/003.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/004.jpg

Finally get on the road and my first port of call is L'agulhas. I'll let the sign do the talking... (and don't believe the crap about Cape of Good Hope outside Cape Town being the most southern point, it's nowhere near - also it is NOT where the Indian & Atlantic meet.. this place is.. I went to both just in case though Wink

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/049.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/050.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/051.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/052.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/053.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/054.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/055.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/056.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/057.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/058.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/059.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/060.jpg

Onto Jeffrey's Bay! (I never did find out who this Jeffrey fella was..)

Tsitsikamma forest (huge, was huger but cut down). Have other shitter shots, not worth seeing really. Very green.
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/062.jpg

Out the other side
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/063.jpg

Accomodation in Jeffrey's Bay, a place called Stone Olive. Again, great host and a lovely place. Flaked out after a long hot day, so didn't get a chance to see Jeffrey's Bay at all, or sample the culinary delights it had to offer. Apparently this place is a surfer's dream, but I only got to see the beach from afar.
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/064.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/065.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/066.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/067.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/068.jpg

Koi Carp in 'ere in the courtyard
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/069.jpg

drumroll please... DAY THREE
This was to take in the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve. Craig had told me to tread carefully or to avoid it on my own, but I had forgotten his advice (or maybe my brain decided it wanted to ignore it?). The Baviaanskloof is 230km's of off-road heaven. Tall mountain trails, steep declines, 61 river crossings in total, a living breathing nature wild reserve (dozens of mammal types including Leopard and Buffalo - I only learnt AFTER the fact that Buffalo will charge and kill you if you're unlucky to be in the way). You have to sign a disclaimer on the way in so you don't sue them if you die horribly. I can honestly believe that if you went over one of the mountain sides that you wouldn't be found for weeks or months or ever, it really is that remote as you will see in the following photos. As Craig later described to me, this is Southern Africa's number 1 dual-sport route! I had done one day of off-road training 6 weeks before this trip (not in preparation, just for a laugh) and it really came in handy.

The roads to the reserve were pretty decent in their own right
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/070.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/071.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/072.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/073.jpg

The start of an adventure.. 230km's of off road, 61 river crossings
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/074.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/075.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/076.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/077.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/078.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/079.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/080.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/081.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/082.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/083.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/084.jpg

aww cute.. a little 'river' crossing (loving it at this stage, feeling like I'm on my own little African adventure, even getting the soles of my feet wet.. amazing..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/085.jpg

on we go..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/086.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/087.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/088.jpg

more water.. another good authentic photo for the Africa photo album right..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/089.jpg

then this bastard turns up..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/090.jpg

as you can see there is little point turning round (Willowmore and Patensie are the two entry/exit points), a long way from safety. These other places mentioned are either abandoned or little more than a single shack
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/091.jpg

fuck it!!
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/092.jpg

because of this mother.. is deeper than it looks, with loose pebbles on the bottom. I almost fell off twice and lucked out by getting through. Heart racing I was now panicking whether there was worse to come..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/093.jpg

drying off
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/094.jpg

some river crossings are just lovely, no risk just pure eye candy
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/095.jpg

on we go..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/096.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/097.jpg

THINK BIKE!
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/098.jpg

Spot the donkey
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/099.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/100.jpg

I didn't even try and ride this one, it was too deep or too rocky or too sandy. I got off and walked it through with the bike running (harder than it looks on telly)
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/101.jpg

Last of the deep crossings done, time to dry out
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/102.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/103.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/104.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/105.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/106.jpg

Stopped off at the quaint craft shop right near the end to pick up a few authentic xmas presents
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/107.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/108.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/109.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/110.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/112.jpg

Two German fellas turned up on the exact same bikes. They had ridden from Namibia through to the Kruger national park and down the country crossing Lesotho. We chatted for a while in the baking heat. I asked them the poignant question of what was the best part of their ride so far (considering they had done thousands of miles already) and they both agreed the Baviaanskloof was the best part which just backed up my amazement at the park - it truly was wonderful riding.
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/111.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/113.jpg

This is the view where the dirt road ends and you finally get back to tarmac.. one word.. welcoming!
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/114.jpg

On my way to day three's rest stop. A town called Outdshoorn.
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/115.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/116.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/117.jpg

Low flying cloud
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/118.jpg

It was getting late and the last thing you want after a long days ride off road, in searing heat when you're dehydrated and knackered is a breakdown... so guess what happened? That's right, one of the rear wheel bearings imploded and turned to paste..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/119.jpg

Managed to get to my rest stop which was a B&B called '88 Baron Van Reede St'. Run by an English expat it was very welcoming. He gave me a pack of beers and we sat down and talked for over an hour. Planning how to fix the bike (he went out for a drive looking for places locally.. amazing guy Huw was) and also what I should go visit the next day when the bike was fixed. I would definitely get yourself to this place as it is the most welcoming and the BEST breakfast as well.

Eating out at an Italian Restaurant with some interesting wall art..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/121.jpg

Then in true South African tradition, the lights went out. Luckily my pizza was being cooked in a wood burning oven.. but had to eat by tealight!!
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/122.jpg

DAY FOUR

Aftermath of riding for a whole day in Africa without gloves on!
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/123.jpg

A 'Ken Morley' 3D art piece on Huw and Zoe's wall. It had lights and 3D plaster of paris effect. Pretty impressive. Pic does not do it justice.
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/124-1.jpg

Joined for breakfast..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/124-2.jpg

The accomodation at 88 Baron Van Reede St
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/124.jpg

Got my bike into the menders and went for a stroll to see wheat Outdshoorn had to offer
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/125.jpg

Expensive old style Golf (they still produce them here, so this would be a nearly new one!)
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/126.jpg

Ostrich feather dusters
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/128.jpg

Bike repair shop run by a friendly chap
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/129.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/130.jpg

Interesting neighbours..
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/131.jpg

Bike was fixed.. now to see what else is in the area.. Cango Caves! (I didn't do the adventure tour, which is 1650 steps more and the most ridiculous tight gaps you have to squeeze through, not my cup of tea - so I stayed on the 'standard' or 'sane' tour.
(shit camera doesn't do the place justice)
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/132.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/133.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/134.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/135.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/136.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/137.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/138.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/139.jpg

The view from outside
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/140.jpg

Camels!
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/141.jpg

DAY FOUR (PM) and FIVE

Route 62. Long straight roads. Blue skies. Good food and drink when you finally get to a town.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/142.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/143.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/144.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/145.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/146.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/147.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/148.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/149.jpg

Back on the N2. Stopped to take on water, nibble a biscuit (or three) and reflect briefly on the wonderful sights, sounds, tastes and experiences South Africa threw up.

I will be back... most definitely...

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/2011-SA-Trip/2ndweek/150.jpg

mysterious_rider · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Sep 2010 Karma :

Karma given, absolutely amazing pictures there buddy! Would absolutely love to do something like that. Cool

iforwms · Two Stroke Sniffer Joined: 16 Oct 2011 Karma :

Great post, looks like you really made the most of your 5 days!

Redoko · World Chat Champion Joined: 04 Nov 2009 Karma :

This is exactly the kinda thing I want to do after Uni.

Great write up, little text with a lot of detailed pics. Thumbs Up

____________________
"Let's face it, this is not the worst thing you've caught me doing."
Sudika Sportsman SK50QT > Gilera DNA50 > Honda CBR125 RW7 > Kawasaki Zephyr750 > Suzuki GSXR600 > Honda Hornet CB600F '51

olionel · Brolly Dolly Joined: 22 Dec 2006 Karma :

nice one! very nice pics. SO how do you rate the Tenere? Would you buy one? Or is it hit n miss? (i.e. the bearing deciding to die)
____________________
1989 CG125 - Childhood Sweetheart (she got kidnapped by baddies)
1998 ZXR400 - Teenage Love (lasted three years, then she turned lesbian and left me)
2001 XRV750 - Wife Material (still getting to know her but head over heels in love)

Maruchino · Spanner Monkey Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Karma :

thanks guys - much appreciated. There are higher res pics in the link at the top if you're interested in seeing more detail

mysterious_rider · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Sep 2010 Karma :

hey man how much would a holiday like this set someone back? This is what I'd like to do one day.

Maruchino · Spanner Monkey Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Karma :

mysterious_rider · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Sep 2010 Karma :

Ah cheers. Cool

Yeah It's a lot of money, but it does look like good fun.

Shame there's no land like that over in france. (that I know of) would be awesome taking a trip on the euro tunnel, heading through to spain. I wonder if they do anything like this in spain. Would be so much cheaper and do-able. Smile

You should have writtten a long diary to go with the pictures. If it's something you do often (touring) a site would be amazing!

L4Isoside · World Chat Champion Joined: 08 Mar 2010 Karma :

Very epic! Thumbs Up

Maruchino · Spanner Monkey Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Karma :

Maruchino · Spanner Monkey Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Karma :

Case in point, didn't even have to leave the rock for this little beauty, taken from the highlands of Scotland in May this year;

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/IMAG0067.jpg

Tenko · Could Be A Chat Bot Joined: 09 Jul 2011 Karma :

That trip looks wonderful!!!

Any problem with the locals?

colin1 · Captain Safety Joined: 17 Feb 2005 Karma :

You may be interested in similar threads covering similar ground from cape town along the south coast.

I did a shorter trip

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=192844&highlight=

and a south african guy did a longer trip

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=186190&highlight=cape+town

he also made vids of the trip in a long way down style
____________________
colin1 is officially faster than god