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RS 125 Project / Restoration

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demon9374
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Joined: 01 May 2011
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: RS 125 Project / Restoration Reply with quote

As requested by some folks, sorry for hi-jacking your thread Hadden haha Cool

Anyhow, I have no idea what the end result will be, street fight, old shape, new shape etc. Can't really decide, would make sense to stick with the old shape seeing as all the fairings & lights are present.

First thing first is to get the Engine running. I have no idea if it runs yet.

Anyhow, luck would have it that someone local was selling a full bike for spares/repair & no one bidded/wanted anything. So I didn't know what to offer at first as I wanted all the bike. After mentioning it, Hadden suggested £300 without Engine, £450 with. So I offered £200 without, £325 with & he took £320 straight away.

The guy mentioned he was riding it and poof, nothing. He said he mentioned it to a mechanic in Hyde that used to race 600's, whom said it would be the main bearings as they sit in a sleeve which eventually gets chewed up & knackered.

I picked her up yesterday. Would seem that all that is missing is a battery, no problem, cheap enough to buy & I have a charger to get started. Just need to get round to buying a battery.

I removed the engine when I got back & took the bike upstairs (live in a small rise flat, so there's no room in the hallway, but I have a spare room to play in lol).

Engine removed, I drained the oil, the drain plug/screw was covered in a thick layer of filings, so I guess he hasn't attempted to check the problem out, he said he didn't & what was revealed suggests he hadn't either.

One of the balance shaft gears has a gap where some teeth have broken off & the other looks to have a crack in it. When pulling the clutch basket out the broken part fell out from behind it. Now if it was just that causing the problem, then I'm laughing, but nothing is ever as simple as that aye? Rolling Eyes There's also a tiny dent in the clutch push rod? (Pictures to follow).

Today I think I shall remove the top end & insect the piston & cylinder, looking up the exhaust port, the piston looks alright, but I'll get a better look later.

I think I'm going to split the case & replace all bearings, it has 22k on the clock, so it's probably due a bottom end rebuild anyways. Once everything's out I can then clean the casings properly as the outside is covered in black shit/dirt etc. I'm just wondering what way is best to clean it? I came across a thread on google & the guy put it in the dish washer & the washing powder fucked up the metal lol..

Pictures..

Reflective rim tape, ohh shiny. I don't like the front wheel, that needs to go up for sale/swap for a matching 3 spoke.
https://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/397376_2926441045130_1384021063_33099105_1100086052_n.jpg

Caved in and finally asked next door to help me lift it upstairs.
https://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/399656_2926451085381_1384021063_33099108_137111696_n.jpg

Mess.
https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/386075_2926473965953_1384021063_33099122_1246782727_n.jpg

Mess.
https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/399102_2926477206034_1384021063_33099123_847928130_n.jpg

Organised mess.
https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/392139_2926447645295_1384021063_33099107_448938316_n.jpg

Dint to the right of the bearing.
https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/383040_2927330747372_1384021063_33099681_515684828_n.jpg

Balance shaft gear had been to the dentist.
https://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/383655_2926973698446_1384021063_33099358_1800502109_n.jpg

This one's been on crack. Wink
https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/389918_2926975978503_1384021063_33099360_1772692112_n.jpg

Heart & soul of the party.
https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/393213_2926979738597_1384021063_33099367_1263734521_n.jpg

Cool
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hadden
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Joined: 01 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

good to see you have joined me on the show and tell.my piston was a right fucking mess when i got mine off.u did well to get all that done yesterday tho dude.looking forward to see the outcome of this one too.let me know if you want some piccies of the headlights if got..i just looked and they have actually got your name all over them Smile
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hadden wrote:
good to see you have joined me on the show and tell.my piston was a right fucking mess when i got mine off.u did well to get all that done yesterday tho dude.looking forward to see the outcome of this one too.let me know if you want some piccies of the headlights if got..i just looked and they have actually got your name all over them Smile


Haha, cool beans.

Just took the head off, thank god I didn't chew the nut holding it on, wasn't budging & hard to get a ratchet in there, limited crap tools & all that.. lol

Anyhow, head off. Doesn't look too bad tbh. Although, the rings move abit on the piston, not sure if they're supposed to be a tight fit or not?

Pictures..

https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/390910_2933087891297_1384021063_33102323_189344726_n.jpg

https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/377801_2933083611190_1384021063_33102318_1716297786_n.jpg

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/387342_2933084531213_1384021063_33102319_1676976537_n.jpg

https://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/398897_2933085611240_1384021063_33102320_1701494325_n.jpg

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/381080_2933086691267_1384021063_33102322_795106395_n.jpg

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/408994_2933089691342_1384021063_33102325_497726204_n.jpg

https://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/388244_2933090691367_1384021063_33102326_870713049_n.jpg

https://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/400191_2933091571389_1384021063_33102327_23999948_n.jpg

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/379995_2933080971124_1384021063_33102315_1851819477_n.jpg

https://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/409435_2933081451136_1384021063_33102316_1044512254_n.jpg

https://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/404442_2933082371159_1384021063_33102317_397015501_n.jpg

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/398402_2933094611465_1384021063_33102329_1097763106_n.jpg

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/379050_2933095771494_1384021063_33102331_565785861_n.jpg

https://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/390944_2933097171529_1384021063_33102332_1354530652_n.jpg

https://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/393832_2933098491562_1384021063_33102333_1919819690_n.jpg

Sorry about the quality of some of them, using mobile phone, it's hit or miss when it wants to take a decent image.

The conrod, this has a little bit of play left/right, no idea if that's right? If not, possible conrod bearings gone or main bearings?
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hadden
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

well the piston doesn't look too bad but if you can afford it you might aswell change it,the rings are supposed to have a little play in as when they go back into the head it compresses them(i think Smile).my con rod has play from left to right but i think its if it has any play up or down that you have to worry.looks a bit orange tho?could that be surface rust because mines the same and my head gasket went leaving water/oil surrounding it.im sure that's the 122 have u managed to find where it sais yet??
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hadden wrote:
well the piston doesn't look too bad but if you can afford it you might aswell change it,the rings are supposed to have a little play in as when they go back into the head it compresses them(i think Smile).my con rod has play from left to right but i think its if it has any play up or down that you have to worry.looks a bit orange tho?could that be surface rust because mines the same and my head gasket went leaving water/oil surrounding it.im sure that's the 122 have u managed to find where it sais yet??


Yeah it's a 122, found it after all in such an obvious place, couldn't see for looking, ha!

Doesn't feel rusted to me, I have seen a few that colour, on PJME they're orange, as they're not new, they've been trued or something etc, if you buy one, they normally take your old one if it's naff. It'll be from use it's discoloured more than likely.

Yeah, there's no play up/down, I guess the left/right play is so that the piston can be easily aline to go into the barrel.

Doesn't seem to be any leakage into the crack/barrel etc, it's just corroded & shitty inside the area the coolant flows through. I'll know more when I can get this bloody flywheel off & split the case. Don't fancy paying £22.50 for a puller. When I get off my back side, I'm going get gramps to make me something. He's got a shed full of crap/nuts/bolts etc, progress is hindered 'til then. Oh and still need to get a battery lol

Dunno what to do when I've stripped it fully. Dunno what to look for if the crank shaft is knackered. Was thinking full bearing replacement for bottom end though. Dunno if there's anything else at this point to replace.

On the design point though..

https://www.tjtuning.co.uk/forums/picture.php?albumid=120&pictureid=667

Looks swish. He's put an AF1 swingarm on there, but after reading up & the obvious stuff. You need obviously AF1 wheels & limited tyre wise. Found a matching pair of 3 spoke AF1 wheels for £25 each. Awesome, but then I'd need calipers, discs, bearings, sprockets.

Then the next problem, if you do the back, you need to do the front, as above, which also includes AF1 forks aswell. Atm, it doesn't seem worth the money/hassle until I get the engine running, by the time that gets done, those wheels will have probably gone. There's probably some other stuff that needs replacing aswell. On the thread I took the picture from though, it seems as though the swingarm is a straight swap. But costly if you want that look, due to the rest of the stuff you have to swap for AF1 bits.

Looks sweet though & no one round here has a single sided RS Mr. Green

Quite like the rear end, but alas, I'll need lights, loom etc from the new RS.. And the fairing itself isn't cheap either, although it has no holes in, I could possibly cut holes to fit my old light unit. My skills with the dremel are pretty shite though. Laughing

He also cut down the new front fairing to make a street fighter style headlight, looks smart & I have a front fairing that's too much to fix, but easy enough to take bits off for a front headlamp.

Back to the engine.

Hopefully someone reads this without me having to go in the Workshop.

Say for instance I strip the entire engine, replace all the bearings, broken balance shaft gears, piston & rings. Put her back together & try to get her started, providing carb is all set, starter working. And she doesn't start, what would be my culprit? I'd hate to do all this work, press the starter button & nothing happen or am I worrying too much? lol
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hadden
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats look mint.iv never seen one with the af1 swing arm on. and i would say if you change all that and it doesnt fire, but turns over then it will be electrical.so get a multi meter just incase.and make sure the fuel you use when trying to start it is fresh. and as for the back lights there are plenty on flee bay for quiet cheap which might be easier to incorporate into the rear plastics.im going for the double barrel lights off the r6 Smile
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red bull gives you wing sting!!!
current:aprilia rs 125
previous:honda c90,honda cm 125,yamaha xt 550,2004 suzuki drz 400.(all used for off road back in the day)and a piagio zip 50cc..oooossssshhhh
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hadden wrote:
thats look mint.iv never seen one with the af1 swing arm on. and i would say if you change all that and it doesnt fire, but turns over then it will be electrical.so get a multi meter just incase.and make sure the fuel you use when trying to start it is fresh. and as for the back lights there are plenty on flee bay for quiet cheap which might be easier to incorporate into the rear plastics.im going for the double barrel lights off the r6 Smile


Good idea bud, I think I saw a link to them on your thread, cheap as chips, shouldn't be too hard to wire up aswell tbh.

Made my own puller today out of wood. Didn't work, it just started snapping the wood. Flywheel is well & truely stuck there, need to see if gramps can fashion one up, if not, I'll have to bite the bullet & buy one.

Need to make more room, room's getting swamp with engine bits lol

Edit -

Took the other side off instead, no coolant leaked in there, but where it flows is in an aweful state.

I have also decided, without the proper tools, I fookin' hate circlips, can't get the one off on the gears, so I can get the final gears out.

Also, probably worth asking in The Workshop really. How do I know/tell if the bearings have gone? They look and rotate fine to me? This is my first time inside an engine though.. Don't know what to be looking for really. I'll have google about in the mean time.

Pictures..

https://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386652_2941409939343_1384021063_33106407_271338516_n.jpg

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/378862_2941406259251_1384021063_33106405_1692905726_n.jpg

If you look at the sleeve on the left where the main bearing sits, doesn't look fooked to me, going by what that mechanic told him.
https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/395935_2941402579159_1384021063_33106404_984796961_n.jpg

https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/398130_2941399139073_1384021063_33106403_572508502_n.jpg

That's it for tonight, I've had enough, got ferrets pecking my head scratching about & downstairs dog been barking since dinner time, I've reported it, but alas, do they ever do anything? No, time to buy some bleach, mix some petrol, mix whatever & kill the mongrel mut.

Dunno why he has a dog, goes out all day to leave it barking, doesn't walk it, just lets it shit in the garden & doesn't pick it up unless you knock on and bollock him & caught it licking condensation off the window the other day.. Rolling Eyes
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to add.

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/390620_2941580263601_1384021063_33106454_1801807717_n.jpg

Doesn't look good.
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's just asking to be Streetfightered!
Renthals, funky front light, jack up kit etc etc.
Looking forward to seeing the progress of this Smile
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Beelzebob
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 29 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hadden wrote:
the rings are supposed to have a little play in as when they go back into the head it compresses them


The piston and rings run in the barrel, not in the head, and are compressed by the reassembler (using a piston ring compressor) to allow the piston to slide back down within the bore on reassembly. Normal to have a bit of play in piston rings.

Good to see you getting stuck into the engine work, keep it up Thumbs Up
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 29 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much progress today. Just took 3 of the bearings out after putting the casing in the oven.

Started to chew up the screw holding the washer over the other bearing, so can't get that out for now, will have to get gramps to extract it, my fault, I have shite posi drives.

Time to price them up off a bearing site, main bearings I'm probably best getting them off PJME with seals for 338 rather than the one's I've found at £15 Exc. VAT, 2 will come to £30 then plus VAT then plus seals. Others should be straight forward & cheaper elsewhere.
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 30 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No pictures yet, got some Gunk degreaser. Works a charm, engine looking clean & tidy.

Ordered full set of bearings & seals, also got a flywheel puller on the way aswell.

Just need balance shaft gears & after it's all cleaned, lubed & put back together (god help me) I bet it doesn't start haha.

Reminds me, need to order a full gasket & o-ring set.
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/403962_2979705856717_1384021063_33133054_1182917353_n.jpg

https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/373802_2979702416631_1384021063_33133053_739791381_n.jpg

Tool came today, which was a load of shite, none of the bolts fitted the flywheel, used bolts lying round with smaller washers so they didn't fall through the tools holes & after some feat of strenth, pop goes the flywheel.

Will have to oven the crankshaft another time & get that blasted bearing off, got the rest of the bearings out.

My eyes and throat have never hurt so much from opening the oven door with an engine in.. lol

Degreased everything engine side now, I think.. Got frame & shizzle to clean, but that's for another time.

Got some parts coming from Damon

Watch this space. Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

demon9374 wrote:
Yeah, there's no play up/down, I guess the left/right play is so that the piston can be easily aline to go into the barrel.


Small amount of side to side play is normal.

The balance shaft gears are a service item. Should be changed around 15k.

demon9374 wrote:
Looks swish. He's put an AF1 swingarm on there, but after reading up & the obvious stuff. You need obviously AF1 wheels & limited tyre wise. Found a matching pair of 3 spoke AF1 wheels for £25 each. Awesome, but then I'd need calipers, discs, bearings, sprockets.


That is an AF1 Sintesi wheel. They uses a 7 spoke front and 9 spoke rear wheel. The front wheel will go into the RS forks (did this once to MOT the RS when the front tyre was knackered). The AF1 Futura uses 5 spoke wheels. The only AF1 125 with 3 spoke wheels was the original one which had 16" wheels with normal forks. This wheel wouldn't go directly into the RS forks, and the rear tyres is a 120/80 16 which is very difficult to source.

Bigger worry is that the single sided swinging arm is steel and weighs a ton.

If you find 3 spoke wheels for a single sided swinging arm Aprilia then they are probably from a 50.

demon9374 wrote:
Say for instance I strip the entire engine, replace all the bearings, broken balance shaft gears, piston & rings. Put her back together & try to get her started, providing carb is all set, starter working. And she doesn't start, what would be my culprit? I'd hate to do all this work, press the starter button & nothing happen or am I worrying too much? lol


Watch out for the main bearings. If you just press the cases over the crank you will put a side loading on the main bearings and they will likely have a short life. Official way to do it is a puller that pulls the crank into the cases.

Beelzebob wrote:
The piston and rings run in the barrel, not in the head, and are compressed by the reassembler (using a piston ring compressor) to allow the piston to slide back down within the bore on reassembly.


On most 2 strokes (including the RS) the bottom of the barrel is chamfered to allow the barrel to slide over the piston and compress the rings as it goes down, as long as the rings lightly compressed and are located correctly (ie, ring gaps lined up the with the locating pins on the piston).

demon9374 wrote:


Not sure, but would expect the wear marks to be more numerous if that was due to wear (given the speed it spins at). Suspect that is just marks from where it was crudely cleaned up in production.

All the best

Keith
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Keith Thumbs Up

Well I was thinking of freezing the bearings (if needed, hopefully not damage them?) and heating the cases to get everything back in, same with the crankshaft (as I understand, you put one of the mains on the flywheel side, before putting it into the case).

The bearings feel oiled/greased up already, do I need to add further lubrication when they are fitted? I guess the same for the piston refitted, I drop a smidge of 2t onto the piston head?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I would add a drop of 2 stroke oil (well, more than a drop as it smells nice).

Paraphrasing the manual:-

Heat the clutch side crankcase half to 60-100 degrees C and press in the main bearing (closed side of the bearing cage has to point outwards).

Once the crank has been checked to be true, heat the magneto side main bearing to 80 degrees C and slide it onto the crank.

Determine the axial clearance of the crankshaft and place suitable shims into the magneto side crankcase half.

Heat the crankcases to 90-100 degrees C. Push the crankshaft into the hot crankcase magneto side crankcase.

Heat the clutch side crankcase half to 50-60 degrees C, join it to the magneto side one and bolt the crankcase halves together.

If you can heat them up to these amounts so that things slot together) then you need a special tool which bolts to the magneto side case and to the crank and then draws the crank into the crankcase.

All the best

Keith
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hadden
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

keep up the good work dude Thumbs Up
____________________
red bull gives you wing sting!!!
current:aprilia rs 125
previous:honda c90,honda cm 125,yamaha xt 550,2004 suzuki drz 400.(all used for off road back in the day)and a piagio zip 50cc..oooossssshhhh
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that's a fucker, just compared the new mains to the old mains, new one's don't have a closed side. It would seem all the new bearings are the same in regards to the closed side..

https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s320x320/391933_2981355857966_1384021063_33134340_1557349597_n.jpg

Same on both sides ^

Old main on the right..

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/393896_2981358298027_1384021063_33134341_314694506_n.jpg

/sigh, give up.
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hadden
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

is that picture of the old one with the closed side up?cause they look pretty much the same apart from the new ones dont have those rail type things above that actual bearings..i would post that on the workshop to see if they would still be ok
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red bull gives you wing sting!!!
current:aprilia rs 125
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hadden
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

demon9374 wrote:


you have got to leave the rim tape on...GLOW IN THE DARKKK WWAAHOOOOOO

also what the fuck is that your holding lol?
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demon9374
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Joined: 01 May 2011
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rim tape is awesome, when I get matching wheels, they'll be getting powder coated & some new rim tape ordered for sure!

That would be the balance shaft I think, comparing it to someone elses rebuild it's got the same mark on it, so there's no reason to be concerned there.

Yeah, the one on the right is the old one, the new ones don't have that rail type thing lol
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Beelzebob
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 04 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
On most 2 strokes (including the RS) the bottom of the barrel is chamfered to allow the barrel to slide over the piston and compress the rings as it goes down, as long as the rings lightly compressed and are located correctly (ie, ring gaps lined up the with the locating pins on the piston).


Good to know (not had a 2 stroke apart) - I'm used to car engines (Triumphs, mostly), to be fair, taking pistons in/out the top of the block... rather than sliding the barrel down onto the piston Thumbs Up
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 04 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those new bearings look fine to me. They're not sealed so it's all good.

And if you're close enough to inspect bearings in your crank cases, then replace them. Because when the eventually go, it's a bitch to change them. Bearings are cheap, bearing failure isn't.

I agree with Keith, that bit that 'doesn't look good' just looks like a crudely tidied casting mark, I'd have no issues putting that back in.
Personally I'd put the bike back to standard, with finishing touches that you like.

And good god, buy some good tools. Having good quality tools and the right tool for a job makes it a million times easier!

Gaz
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demon9374
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 04 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
Those new bearings look fine to me. They're not sealed so it's all good.

And if you're close enough to inspect bearings in your crank cases, then replace them. Because when the eventually go, it's a bitch to change them. Bearings are cheap, bearing failure isn't.

I agree with Keith, that bit that 'doesn't look good' just looks like a crudely tidied casting mark, I'd have no issues putting that back in.
Personally I'd put the bike back to standard, with finishing touches that you like.

And good god, buy some good tools. Having good quality tools and the right tool for a job makes it a million times easier!

Gaz


Aye, just need to get the main off the crankshaft & yet to take the other half of the case to my gramps to get the screw extracted, weather's shite, makes me feel 'cba' to ride down.

Just been polishing up the clutch case side, dunno why, meh. When I go to the gramps, I'll take a list of stuff to powder coat so he can pass it on to see how much bits will cost.

Can the cases be powder coated? Wouldn't want anything to get on the inside of them & powder coating is just spray painting? But properly, not the rattle can way lol

Probably not worth it, but would keep the nasty rain away perhaps?

New water pump came today. Thumbs Up

Anyone have tips for getting off stubborn bits of gasket stuck to the cases?

Still need to order some balance shaft gears, gasket set & a battery. They can wait until the bearings are in though.

Would any garage have tools to get the bearing off the crankshaft, new one put on & crankshaft pulled back into the casing or will I need a specialised/bike garage? Saves me struggling & pissing about freezing/ovening things.. lol, but I can't think of any bike garages local Confused
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 04 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Some might, but not all. And not sure which ones would have the skills to press apart a 2 stroke crank.

Plenty of places around that can do it though. Whereabouts are you? Someone might be able to suggest somewhere local

All the best

Keith
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