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Help with wiring up heated grips. (SE LDN)

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nickGT
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 31 Dec 2011    Post subject: Help with wiring up heated grips. (SE LDN) Reply with quote

Hi Guys, I am not the most proficient when it comes to mechanics and electronics. However I decided I was going to try and fit my heated grips myself.

It went well up unto the wiring part. The problem is that I don't know where exactly to run the wires to get to the battery and then how to connect them to the battery. I've heard suggestions it's better to wire them to the lights but think this is out of my league Wink

The bike is an 03 bandit.

This is where I have run the wires from.
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/photo1sf.jpg/

I wasn't sure if this was the best place to run them through. I know it sounds stupid but didn't want to run them across something really hot and have the wires melt
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/341/photoemo.jpg/

And lastly I wasn't sure if this is right. As you can see the black wire has a 'hoop' on the end and the red wire doesn't. I'm not even entirely sure how they connect.
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/photo2wm.jpg/

Any help or guidance would be massively appreciated. I am in brockley south east london also if anyone is local and could find 30minutes to pop around and show me how it's done.

Many Thanks

Nick


Last edited by nickGT on 12:09 - 02 Jan 2012; edited 1 time in total
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instigator
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 31 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks to me like the set that you have intends the user to wire the red wire up to the bikes ignition wiring, such that they can't be left on when the bike is turned off. Not strictly necessary in my book, so long as you never forget to turn off the heated grips when you leave the bike.

You can cable tie the wiring to any other wiring or the frame up until the battery box, so long as it's not dangling on any engine parts or doesn't catch on anything when you turn the bars.

If you don't have any tools, I'd recommend you use your teeth (or gently, with scissors) to take off more of the red wires insulation to expose more of the copper. Partly loosen the + nut on the battery and place the red wire in betwen the bolt and the battery connection and tighten the nut up again. The negative terminal is fairly straight forward, simply remove bolt and reconnect with the black wires connection going through the bolt.

I'd show you but I'm too far away at the moment.
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nickGT
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks alot.

There doesn't appear to be a clear place where I can run the wires too and from without being on/around the engine. I suppose there must be though.
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nickGT
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so I just run the wires in a sensible place and hooked them up to the battery. But... the bike wouldn't start =[

I really have no idea what the problem is Thumbs Down

To add insult to injury the throttle appears to be sticking slightly.

Any suggestions?
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instigator
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the heated grips cable on the throttle side being caught on anything as you turn the throttle?

Is there an alarm on the bike?
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nickGT
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No I doesn't appear to be getting caught. Might just need a bit more slack. And no there isn't an alarm on the bike. I am really at a loss as to why it wont start. I removed the grip wiring and it's still not starting. Could it somehow of drained the battery?
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nickGT wrote:
Thanks alot.

There doesn't appear to be a clear place where I can run the wires too and from without being on/around the engine. I suppose there must be though.


Could you not lift the tank (usually only just a couple of nuts, and perhaps the seat, which again, just a couple of nuts or a key) and cable tie the wire to the wires which run down there? There'll be some running up towards the front under there. That's a proven safe place to run them, hence the wires already there.
HTH
mike
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nickGT
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats exactly where I have run them. Still no idea why it won't start though.
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be worth checking your fuses. Start simple
HTH
Mike
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'99 SV650 Streetfighter Project - mid build
'Motorcycling is about what you do; not about what you own, or how much you spend on it'
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nickGT
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

After some more probing it seems the battery may be flat. I haven't run it in a couple of weeks so seems like the most obvious option. Can I 'jump' it from my car battery?
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nickGT wrote:
After some more probing it seems the battery may be flat. I haven't run it in a couple of weeks so seems like the most obvious option. Can I 'jump' it from my car battery?


yes you can, friend of mine's been doing it for ages now :p
was it a can i do it? or also how do i?
HTH
mike
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'04 Yamaha WR450F
'99 SV650 Streetfighter Project - mid build
'Motorcycling is about what you do; not about what you own, or how much you spend on it'
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nickGT
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was a 'can'. I'll give it a go as soon as it stops raining.

thanks alot.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nickGT wrote:
Ok so I just run the wires in a sensible place and hooked them up to the battery. But... the bike wouldn't start =[

I really have no idea what the problem is Thumbs Down

To add insult to injury the throttle appears to be sticking slightly.

Any suggestions?


Throttle sticking. Move the grip further to end of the bars. Odds on, its binding on the end of the bar.

Do you have a multimeter to check battery voltage ?

I would also get a relay to run the grips.
Its far to easy to leave them on, or even for someone to trip them on when you are not around.....
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nickGT wrote:
It was a 'can'. I'll give it a go as soon as it stops raining.

thanks alot.


Can.

BUT

Do NOT have the car engine running to jump start a bike.

There is a very good electrical reason for this which I wont go into unless you really want me to.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Do NOT have the car engine running to jump start a bike.

There is a very good electrical reason for this which I wont go into unless you really want me to.


Why is this? wouldn't mind knowing myself Razz
mike
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'99 SV650 Streetfighter Project - mid build
'Motorcycling is about what you do; not about what you own, or how much you spend on it'
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mredhead wrote:

Why is this? wouldn't mind knowing myself Razz
mike


A car alternator usually has a very high output and a mechanical voltage regulator built-into it. They have field coils (electromagnets) on the alternator rather than permanant magnets. The voltage output is regulated/varied by switching the power to these coils on and off.

A motorcycle has a lower output alternator and an electronic voltage regulator. It has fixed magnets and puts out power at a constant rate. Voltage output is regulated by dumping excess to earth.

If the cars voltage regulator is set to trip at say 15v and the motorcycle one is set to trip at 14.5v, as soon as you connect the cars alternator to the motorcycle, the motorcycle reg/rec will try to regulate the output from the car by dumping power.

The car will respond by feeding more power to the field coils, upping the output. The motorcycle will dump more, the car will provide more. This will carry on until the car alternator is running flat-out (you'll hear the car rev up to cope with the load) and the poor little zennor in the bikes reg/rec is fully saturated and starting to glow red. Then it'll fail. This can happen in the blink of an eye.

Of course, the car might be set to trip at 14.5v and the bike at 15v in which case you have no problem but it's a risk to take. Especially when a car battery will crank a motorcycle over for a very long time before it goes flat.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 03 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you.
I'm sure there's plenty of people who have fried their reg/recs from this in the past Razz
Nice little lesson there
mike
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'99 SV650 Streetfighter Project - mid build
'Motorcycling is about what you do; not about what you own, or how much you spend on it'
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