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Help with chain adjustment please

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sidewinder
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Joined: 24 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Help with chain adjustment please Reply with quote
Hi all

About to adjust my chain for the very first time.What is confusing me is do you take the tight spot from A or B in the diagram


https://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/sidewinder11/chain.jpg

thank you all for any help
sw
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
A or B, doesn't matter so long as one is tight and the other loose. It's no so critical as keeping the chain lubed. If you aim for about 30mm total movement up and down in the middle of the run you won't be far off.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Charlie
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:
A or B, doesn't matter so long as one is tight and the other loose. It's no so critical as keeping the chain lubed. If you aim for about 30mm total movement up and down in the middle of the run you won't be far off.


I've never been quite sure with this; is the 30mm meant to be with the bike loaded (i.e. person and luggage) or unloaded?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
How the fuck do you adjust the chain when you are sitting on it Laughing

Stick in on the centre/paddock stand. Turn the wheel till you find the tightest spot on the chain. WIggle it up and down and adjust as nessecary. Just don't make it too tight.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand, no-one sitting on it.

The slack is to ensure that the swing-arm can pass through all ranges of travel without getting over-tight, so you need slack when there's no load on it, enough so that it's not bowstring-tight when the output shaft, swingarm spindle and rear wheel spindle form a straight line (which is the point that the chain is at it's tightest.

30mm is total movement top to bottom, not counting the width of the chain.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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sidewinder
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cheers for the replys all.will give it ago tomorrow. Very Happy i take it if the spindle is on the marks on the swing arm are in the same place the wheel is central.?.

Thank you all again.
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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB4DsHV8SAQ

Helpful.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand, no-one sitting on it.

The slack is to ensure that the swing-arm can pass through all ranges of travel without getting over-tight, so you need slack when there's no load on it, enough so that it's not bowstring-tight when the output shaft, swingarm spindle and rear wheel spindle form a straight line (which is the point that the chain is at it's tightest.

30mm is total movement top to bottom, not counting the width of the chain.


I've just done as you said on my bike, took it out for a ride & my chain snapped.

You owe me £130 for a new chain.

I'll overlook the £1000's of incidental damage if you would care to revisit your advice & amend it accordingly.


Shush now, grown-ups are talking....
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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janner_10
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Joined: 26 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand, no-one sitting on it.

The slack is to ensure that the swing-arm can pass through all ranges of travel without getting over-tight, so you need slack when there's no load on it, enough so that it's not bowstring-tight when the output shaft, swingarm spindle and rear wheel spindle form a straight line (which is the point that the chain is at it's tightest.

30mm is total movement top to bottom, not counting the width of the chain.


I've just done as you said on my bike, took it out for a ride & my chain snapped.

You owe me £130 for a new chain.

I'll overlook the £1000's of incidental damage if you would care to revisit your advice & amend it accordingly.


Its spot on advice - exactly as my owners manual tells me to do it.

OP read your manual - its tells you how to do it!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:
Pete. wrote:


Shush now, grown-ups are talking....


You seriously need to revisit your advice.

Especially this bit . . .

Pete. wrote:

The slack is to ensure that the swing-arm can pass through all ranges of travel without getting over-tight, so you need slack when there's no load on it, enough so that it's not bowstring-tight when the output shaft, swingarm spindle and rear wheel spindle form a straight line (which is the point that the chain is at it's tightest.


The Haynes destruction manual that you have copied your universally wrong advice from, comes with a disclaimer that they aren't responsible for any damge caused if they get it wrong.

Your advice doesn't, so you owe me £130. 'cos you are WRONG.


Son I've built 400hp bikes, go play with your scooter.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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sidewinder
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Joined: 24 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Check the chain slack with the bike on the sidestand, no-one sitting on it.

The slack is to ensure that the swing-arm can pass through all ranges of travel without getting over-tight, so you need slack when there's no load on it, enough so that it's not bowstring-tight when the output shaft, swingarm spindle and rear wheel spindle form a straight line (which is the point that the chain is at it's tightest.

30mm is total movement top to bottom, not counting the width of the chain.


I've just done as you said on my bike, took it out for a ride & my chain snapped.

You owe me £130 for a new chain.

I'll overlook the £1000's of incidental damage if you would care to revisit your advice & amend it accordingly.


This makes me feel bad now Crying or Very sad If id not of posted this his chain would still be ok Mad
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
sidewinder wrote:
This makes me feel bad now Crying or Very sad If id not of posted this his chain would still be ok Mad


Take no notice. He hasn't done anything of the sort he's just a drama queen. My advice is good.

The reason you have slack is shown in the picture below. If you look at the swing-arm on your bike, it is normally at a downward-angle from the pivot, as shown in the bottom diagram.
Look at the middle diagram which depicts a loaded suspension, the two sprockets and swigarm pivot are all in a straight line. This is when the chain is at it's tightest.
The top diagram shows the swigarm angled upwards - which might happen if you went over a bump or throgh a dip.

Because the sprocket is in front of the pivot, having that angle means the distance between the aprocket centers is shortened. This is why you need slack in the chain. If you do as Babba suggests, and put slack in your chain when the suspension is loaded, all you'll do is have a lot of slack in it when it is not.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:

The Haynes destruction manual that you have copied your universally wrong advice from, comes with a disclaimer that they aren't responsible for any damge caused if they get it wrong.


It is also what all the original makers workshop manuals which bother to specify it say.

Only real reason to have slack is to take account of the chain getting tighter as the suspension compresses, and if has a point where it is at its max length (ie, when the sprocket, swinging arm spindle and wheel spindle are in line). The chain tension is specified to account for that from a known pretty much fixed position, rather than the random position when someone puts a load on it. Tension it under load and you have probably left it with too much slack.

All the best

Keith
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Different bikes may have different ways to set up for adjustment. Consult the OEM book.
Generally though the bike should be on it's own stand no load and the slack measured at the lower part 'B'.

Measure the slack.
Turn the wheel and measure again.
Do this and use the tightest measurement as your 'Slack'.
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sidewinder
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Joined: 24 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:
sidewinder wrote:
This makes me feel bad now Crying or Very sad If id not of posted this his chain would still be ok Mad


Take no notice. He hasn't done anything of the sort he's just a drama queen. My advice is good.

The reason you have slack is shown in the picture below. If you look at the swing-arm on your bike, it is normally at a downward-angle from the pivot, as shown in the bottom diagram.
Look at the middle diagram which depicts a loaded suspension, the two sprockets and swigarm pivot are all in a straight line. This is when the chain is at it's tightest.
The top diagram shows the swigarm angled upwards - which might happen if you went over a bump or throgh a dip.

Because the sprocket is in front of the pivot, having that angle means the distance between the aprocket centers is shortened. This is why you need slack in the chain. If you do as Babba suggests, and put slack in your chain when the suspension is loaded, all you'll do is have a lot of slack in it when it is not.


Cheers buddy that makes a lot of sense now.
The you tube link was also very helpfull as well

Be safe guys
sw Thumbs Up
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sidewinder
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Joined: 24 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:
sidewinder wrote:
This makes me feel bad now Crying or Very sad If id not of posted this his chain would still be ok Mad


Take no notice. He hasn't done anything of the sort he's just a drama queen. My advice is good.

The reason you have slack is shown in the picture below. If you look at the swing-arm on your bike, it is normally at a downward-angle from the pivot, as shown in the bottom diagram.
Look at the middle diagram which depicts a loaded suspension, the two sprockets and swigarm pivot are all in a straight line. This is when the chain is at it's tightest.
The top diagram shows the swigarm angled upwards - which might happen if you went over a bump or throgh a dip.

Because the sprocket is in front of the pivot, having that angle means the distance between the aprocket centers is shortened. This is why you need slack in the chain. If you do as Babba suggests, and put slack in your chain when the suspension is loaded, all you'll do is have a lot of slack in it when it is not.


Cheers buddy that makes a lot of sense now.
The you tube link was also very helpfull as well

Be safe guys
sw Thumbs Up
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Mac_Black
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Joined: 25 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:
Babba wrote:
You seriously need to revisit your advice.

Especially this bit . . .

Pete. wrote:

The slack is to ensure that the swing-arm can pass through all ranges of travel without getting over-tight, so you need slack when there's no load on it, enough so that it's not bowstring-tight when the output shaft, swingarm spindle and rear wheel spindle form a straight line (which is the point that the chain is at it's tightest.


The Haynes destruction manual that you have copied your universally wrong advice from, comes with a disclaimer that they aren't responsible for any damge caused if they get it wrong.

Your advice doesn't, so you owe me £130. 'cos you are WRONG.


Son I've built 400hp bikes, go play with your scooter.


^THIS. Laughing
Newbie, STFU.
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multijoy
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:


The Haynes destruction manual that you have copied your universally wrong advice from, comes with a disclaimer that they aren't responsible for any damge caused if they get it wrong.

Your advice doesn't, so you owe me £130. 'cos you are WRONG.


C'mon then sunshine, tell us how you've adjusted the new chain you've put on as the common advice is so clearly at fault. So, you know, we can run a book on how many miles you do before it eats the final drive. Pass the popcorn
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Babba wrote:
Always from B & always with its normal weight on the suspension.

i.e if you normally ride solo then check the free play at B with your weight on bike compressing the suspension.

Make sure the bike is in neutral & the chain isn't unnaturally loaded in anyway.


Babba M8, you seem to have some wicked top-tips on motorcycle stuff.
I need to adjust the chain on my bike will this advice/procedure cover it?

It's a BMW K1300 GT

Will the adjustment still be OK when my tent and stuff is in the boxes too?

Thanks in advance.

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Mac_Black
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Joined: 25 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 01:45 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote
Walloper wrote:
I need to adjust the chain on my bike will this advice/procedure cover it?

It's a BMW K1300 GT

Will the adjustment still be OK when my tent and stuff is in the boxes too?


https://images.wikia.com/random-ness/images/b/b1/I_See_What_You_Did_There.jpg
Laughing I owe you a lot of karma tonight.

Cheers,
Mac.
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