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Exhuast studs

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Exhuast studs Reply with quote

So on boxing day me'cbr600 downpipe fell apart

I got it off but most of the studs snapped with 10mm sticking out.


These are properly stuck in. Ive trye lots of penetrating oil.

The one that came out squeaked, really high pitched, as the bolt took some of the threads with it.



Ive tryed welding to em. the stus just broke a little further up. They are very stuck.



Im going to try some more things, but any ideas on here?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can be of no help to a solution but I had the exact same problem on my old CBR. welding is pointless as the studs seem to be quite brittle. A lot of heat worked on most of the stuck ones, I'm talking gas torch heat. One of them just would not budge no matter what I did. I ended up drilling it out and tapping again.

If you can attach the exhaust with what remains it might be worth running the bike up to temperature and seeing if that helps. The aluminium block should expand more than the steel studs.


Wait until you see the price of new studs Shocked .
A good suggestion from Stinkwheel is to fit the exhaust with brass nuts. They are soft and will strip the thread rather than snap the stud.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you say you 'welded to them' - did you use the trick of putting a nut over the stud and welding down in the hole to weld the nut to the bolt, or did you do something different?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did you drill it out? I dont want to take the engine out or head off! !!!

The bike shop wants to do that.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was lucky since it was the one on the end and there was plenty of space. Unless you have similar luck I think you may struggle without removing the head.
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m1tch
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
I can be of no help to a solution but I had the exact same problem on my old CBR. welding is pointless as the studs seem to be quite brittle. A lot of heat worked on most of the stuck ones, I'm talking gas torch heat. One of them just would not budge no matter what I did. I ended up drilling it out and tapping again.

If you can attach the exhaust with what remains it might be worth running the bike up to temperature and seeing if that helps. The aluminium block should expand more than the steel studs.


Wait until you see the price of new studs Shocked .
A good suggestion from Stinkwheel is to fit the exhaust with brass nuts. They are soft and will strip the thread rather than snap the stud.


I thought it was advisable to fit copper nuts on the exhaust rather than brass?
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

m1tch wrote:
I thought it was advisable to fit copper nuts on the exhaust rather than brass?

How about a compromse of using brass nuts with Copaslip anti-seize compound.
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

or once they are out just routinely slacken them and retighten them - maybe with every oil change or something, save them logging themselves in, as well as copper slip of course, or perhaps some locktite.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will be using stainless studding and nuts if I get them out.

I dont think copper grease is is great for exhaust studs. I will be using graphite spray. Im also making up some caps to go over the studs to prevent dirt getting on them.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't use stainless, 3 reasons:

1. Stainless and alloy react, turning the alloy to dust.
2. When stainless snaps off, it's a bitch to drill out.
3. Although stainless doesn't rust, the road crap still gets baked into the threads. Even with little caps on the covers, dirty water will seep in over time and bake on.

Mild steel studs with brass or copper nuts. If you are having to put so much force onto the nut when tightening that you strip the threads, you are putting on too much force.

I get M6 or M8 car exhaust studs off ebay. A quarter of the price of buying the same thing sold as a bike stud. I think I bought a full set for some manner of VW with a V6 engine last time, lots of studs for about a tenner.


As for removal, I have often been left with no option but to drill. Left hand drill bits can help, but more often its just a case of using progressively larger bits, and quite possibly re-tapping the hole if the last bits of thread are stuck into the alloy. Decent drill bits are your friend, I forget which particular steel alloy is the one to go for, but they were slightly more expensive than titanium coated ones (still fairly cheap though, about £20 for a set).
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
How did you drill it out? I dont want to take the engine out or head off! !!!

The bike shop wants to do that.


No reason you can't do it in the frame if you can get straight on it with a drill. What you need is a drilling guide - I had to make one of these for my mate when he snapped several studs on his BMW head and used an angle-head drill to drill them out in situ.

Take a piece of thick steel plate (10mm or more is best) and drill two holes in it, one a clearance hole for a closeby stud, the other for a tapping-size drill or smaller to drill the broken stud. Grind back all of the broken studs flush, then bolt up the plate using a goo stud and line the hole up over the broken one. Drill through the plate using the hole to guide the drill and stop it wandering.

Depending on how accurately you drill the bolt, you should be able to pick out the threads that are left and fit a new stud - if you can find longer ones that will bottom out it might help especially if you have topped the threads in the hole. If you wreck the thread, you can helicoil or make a stepped stud and tap the next size up.

If you can find a piece of gauge plate/ground flat stock you can harden it and that would make a very nice drilling guide.

Don't try to free-hand the job unless you are very good on a drill, if it wander's even a bit it'll dive off into the alloy then you're really in trouble.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 14 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Decent drill bits are your friend, I forget which particular steel alloy is the one to go for, but they were slightly more expensive than titanium coated ones (still fairly cheap though, about £20 for a set).

Cobalt steel alloy drill bits are the ones to go for.
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Don't use stainless, 3 reasons:

1. Stainless and alloy react, turning the alloy to dust.
2. When stainless snaps off, it's a bitch to drill out.
3. Although stainless doesn't rust, the road crap still gets baked into the threads. Even with little caps on the covers, dirty water will seep in over time and bake on.


There's another reason why you should be carefull with stainless exhaust studs.
Stainless steel fasteners can suffer from 'thread galling' which effectively locks the thread and no amount of torque will shift it, the fastener will shear before the thread will undo. The risk of galling can be reduced by using a good quality anti seize compound, preferably one containing molybdenum or graphite. In situations where seizing is likely to occur then try to use a combination of material, such as 316 studs and 304 nuts.
If you are unlucky enough to break a stainless fastener and have to go down the route of drilling it out then bear the following in mind. Drill stainless with a slow speed and high feed with plenty of cutting fluid. If the bit stops cutting then stop immediately as continuing with a blunt bit will only serve to work harden the material making removal even more difficult.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 00:33 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

No reason you can't do it in the frame if you can get straight on it with a drill.


And that is the problem, there is very little room to work in.

Take a look at this thread. https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2204763 About four post down I have a few pictures showing how to make a drill guide. Hopefully you have a few threads left on the studs.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aren't the studs on an F4 made of alloy? When I put new downpipes on I changed some of the studs as the nuts were seized onto them (Luckily the studs just came out of the head instead). The new genuine Honda studs looked like alloy to me, not steel. The nuts are just plated steel I think, as mine have rusted to fck, despite looking all nice and shiny like chrome when new. Again, genuine honda parts.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 01:50 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The OEM ones I had to remove were definitely steel.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 03:10 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll have all the room you need if you take off the front end and radiator.
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Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
You'll have all the room you need if you take off the front end and radiator.


Strangely enough I thought the same but there is probably as much work in removing the front end as there is the head without the benefits.

Either way there isn't an easy fix, OP is going to have a fustrating few hours in front of him.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
You'll have all the room you need if you take off the front end and radiator.


Strangely enough I thought the same but there is probably as much work in removing the front end as there is the head without the benefits.

Either way there isn't an easy fix, OP is going to have a fustrating few hours in front of him.


Er, it would probably take about an hour tops, and is free.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 15 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
Er, it would probably take about an hour tops, and is free.


Doh! I have no idea what I was thinking! I just remember struggling to strip the front end on mine and finding it a real pain, I can't remember why though? Your right Matt Karma , you could just remove the wheel and slide the fork legs out.
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