Rough cost of fork seal & oil replace?

[Coxyzxr]

Suzuki dr200.
HATE doing fork seals and always fudge it im prepared to pay for it to be done this time.
Anyone have idea of rough cost at garage for this? Inc parts.

Thanks all.
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**WAS FITTED "WRONG WAY ROUND" !** CANT ACCOUNT FOR THE STUPID !

[Ingah]

[Vincent]

If they're RWU forks, the only "hard" bit is getting the forks apart. If mine give me trouble, I take them down the garage ready to split and let them do it. I did the VFR forks recently and they came apart relatively easily. You could always skimp and remove the seals while the forks are in one piece but it's good practice to check the bushes, (might be why the seals have gone), and clean the fork insides thoroughly before putting them back together.

An honest garage would probably charge about £80 - £120 depending on how much the seals are.
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Space Is Deep

[hmmmnz]

i would have thought
20 quid for seals
20 quid for oil
and half hour labor
so 80 quid all up

or 20 if you do it your self,
it also my most hated job on a bike, i rather do valve clearances,
but a saving of 60 quid, would force me into doing it
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the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[jimmyRS]

recently got my forks done at a garage cause i didnt have the tools, cost me £68~

for reference they're wr 250 f forks, USD's

i bought the oil myself n gave it to them, but they used their own seals, so yeah as above about 80 sounds fair

[GSF Jamie 600]

Everywhere i've been have quoted me atleast £150 and thats with me providing the part, complete rip off so i'm going to do it myself with a mate

[Vincent]

[Kickstart]

[st3v3]

£150? Jesus wept.

[Dazbo666]

Did the oil seals, dust seals and front asprings on the Bandit recently...
~£15 for dust seals, £10 for fork oil, and another £10 for the oil seals (all from Wemoto )

Bearing in mind I'd never done the job myself - with a little advice from MrHaynes and some help from my son, we got the job done in about 2 hours

[edit] however, unlike Kickstart, all the bolts and fittings appeared to have been well looked after, so excessive force wasn't needed
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1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF

[Coxyzxr]

Hello, well reading this has given me motivation to have another go.

Tried it on my gs500 and funked it up as seals were tough to get out - new ones leaked month later cause I accidentally scored the stanchion.

What would you suggest to push new oil seals on properly cAuse ofc manual suggest oil n seal replacement needs about 5 factory specific tools.

Agree with 'hmmmnz' give me valve clearances any day.
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**WAS FITTED "WRONG WAY ROUND" !** CANT ACCOUNT FOR THE STUPID !

[Vincent]

[Coxyzxr]

Good call. Parts shop is right nr BnQ and open today.

Only workshop manual I have is for 88/89 dr200 (cause it was only 2quid) mines 94 but both use rwu forks and guessing by relatively unchanged models it should still be relevant ESP for fork oil level. (I hope)
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**WAS FITTED "WRONG WAY ROUND" !** CANT ACCOUNT FOR THE STUPID !

[Vincent]

You need to be sure about the fork oil level - too much oil can blow the seals. Have you tried a trawl on google?
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Space Is Deep

[Fizzer Thou]

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture485.jpg

I made a tool for measuring the correct air gap using a soap dispenser and the correct length of tube for a given level.

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture476.jpg

I made my own tools for disassembling the forks

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture474.jpg

Axle stands and a trolley jack were sufficient for getting the front end apart for this job

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture083.jpg

Some fork bushes are recessed so far down the inside of the upper fork that they are not easily replaced.On this early R1 the bushes are not available as standard.

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture481.jpg

It is a good idea to leave the forks draining for as long as possible so as to drain as much out as possible.I recommend using some cheap fork oil to refill the chamber and to flush out any old and dirty fork oil.It is surprising how much debris also flushes out.

While the forks are out it is a good idea to regrease the headrace bearings

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture463.jpg
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture464.jpg
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Kickstart]

[Coxyzxr]

[Robby]

Take some time to clean up the fork internals properly. I usually give the internals a scrub with a pipe brush and some white spirit or petrol to get rid of the old oil scum at the bottom of the fork.

Also clean up where the seal sits - a little corrosion here makes it very difficult to get the new seal to fit properly. You can clean it up with emery paper - it will quickly get through the corrosion deposits, but the good metal is far harder and won't wear away quickly.

Get it really clean, use genuine seals, and take your time. It is possible to do the job quickly and cheaply, but you'll be doing it again soon. Be sure to dress back any corrosion on the fork stanchion with a finishing pad.