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Bike_craze1
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Honda CBR600 engine oil.. Reply with quote

What engine oil do you reccomend to use in these bikes?
Thanks Smile
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robbieguy2003
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which CBR600? F or RR, which year? I'm servicing my RR soon and have got this ready to go in;

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_263417_langId_-1_categoryId_165507
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Bike_craze1
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

RR mate, okay cheers Smile
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robbieguy2003
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, I tend to find it's worth putting decent oil in, it doesn't cost much more but should make things last longer.

Other thing that might be worth a shot, get the K&N Oil Filter, not because it's uber good or anything, just because they weld a nut to the top of it and you dont need to take the lower fairings off next time you do an oil change Cool
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TUG
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only need a nut on the oil filter if you a fucking retarded monkey and tighten filter on too tight when new.

As for taking the fairings off, the lower comes off with ease 3 bolts i think, its not a big job.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a CBR600f and use castrol GTX car oil.

Before I started using that I was using whatever homebrand stuff it is that Hein Gericke sell with the free filter.


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 19:56 - 03 Feb 2012; edited 1 time in total
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The castrol linked above will be going in my Daytona.

The Fazer is run on castrol semi synth.

The old CBR is run on £12 for 5l from wilkinsons. Brilliant stuff.
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its not so much what make you put in but how often you change it. Asda oil changed very 2k miles is going to be better for your bike than Castrol changed every 5k miles.
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robbieguy2003
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Only need a nut on the oil filter if you a fucking retarded monkey and tighten filter on too tight when new.

As for taking the fairings off, the lower comes off with ease 3 bolts i think, its not a big job.


Agreed, no need to overtighten them, but on the RR7 it's tight for space down there so you need to take the fairing off, and for the sake of paying £2 more for the k&n it saves fucking about at a later date.

As for the oil, feel free to use what you want, I use good oil because i intend to keep my bikes, I dont think it makes a massive difference, letting it warm before revving heavily probrably helps more, but it's another small thing that might make a bit of a difference, each to their own and all that.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd rather use one of these when in a tight spot.
Click me you fucking mug.
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

0l0dom0l0 wrote:
The castrol linked above will be going in my Daytona.

The Fazer is run on castrol semi synth.

The old CBR is run on £12 for 5l from wilkinsons. Brilliant stuff.


Ha! I was pissed off with Halfords now charging nearly £30 for 5l own brand bike oil so I took this route myself...
The bike has never ran better than it does on the £12 Wilko 10/40 car oil! Honestly it seems more than happy on the stuff. Why have I been forking out for bike oil for so long?
I was a little apprehensive about using the stuff but it honestly feels better on it than the bike oil. And for £12 I can afford to change it more often.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheeseybeaner wrote:
Ha! I was pissed off with Halfords now charging nearly £30 for 5l own brand bike oil so I took this route myself...
The bike has never ran better than it does on the £12 Wilko 10/40 car oil! Honestly it seems more than happy on the stuff. Why have I been forking out for bike oil for so long?
I was a little apprehensive about using the stuff but it honestly feels better on it than the bike oil. And for £12 I can afford to change it more often.


Do you know for the last 2 times I've changed my oil it always feels noticeably better after using it.

Daytonas probably going to get some abuse hence why I'm using branded stuff.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use whatever Honda put in to maintain my FHSH Very Happy
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UKRedwing
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Motul 7100 10w40
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Out whatever black slippery stuff you're comfortable with of the correct weight in there and change it regularly.

So you got the RR in the end then?
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Jim Mc
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 03 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

on the cbr600rr forum they talk about using a 3.5" tall oil filer instead of the standard 2.5" for easier access.

I couldn't find any of the ones mentioned when googling, probably could get one down at Andrew Page though, I just went for the Champion 2.5" sold by halfords and the Castrol 10w-30 oil shown above.
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robbieguy2003
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 18 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:


I'd rather use one of these when in a tight spot.
Click me you fucking mug.


As I said before, that WONT work easily on an RR7 as there is a small amount of space to work - because the exhaust headers are close up, so that tools next to fucking useless.

Quote:

Only need a nut on the oil filter if you a fucking retarded monkey and tighten filter on too tight when new.


If you, or a previous owner is unfortunate enough to use a garage that employs a retarded monkey who overtightens/doesn't bother lubing the o-ring then the nut is a nice alternative to stabbing the filter with a screwdriver and twisting it off.

I find things are about OPTIONS, the more of them you have, the better. I'll carry on buying a filter with a nut on because it's a fucksite easier to sort out later if it does end up being a PITA.
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