Honda C90 Rust

[whitebear]

Just bought my first vehicle on two wheels and i'm well happy with it, but it does need some work done.

Having taken a closer look I can see there is some rust on the metal work and in some places its rusted all the way through.

In light of the fact that i'm a complete newb can anyone point me in the right direction for getting this seen to? I'd like to have a go my self so advice on equipment and repair materials i'd need to invest in would be helpful.

I am considering taking it to someone to get it seen to as i've got so little experience, but if it's something i can do my self i'd prefer to save some spends!

Thanks for you help

[Dan79]

You may be able to deal with minor surface rust yourself; use coca cola as fluid and silver foil (shiny side) to polish it. Can take a lot of time but will work if rust is only on the surface. Use of a proper chrome polish thereafter can help protect the metal from further wear.
For deeper rust welding is almost certainly required; if the parts involved are small and / or easily detachable e.g. mudguards / mirrors then replacement may be a cheaper option especially for a model whose spares are abundant, as welding can be expensive due to time and therefore labour charges involved.
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Previous bikes - 1984 Honda VF500 (FII) Interceptor and 1990 Yamaha RXS100
Current bikes - 1984 Honda VF500 (V30) Magna

[Taught2BCauti...]

Where exactly is the rust?

Pictures would help give you a better answer, but if it's on structural parts, like the frame, you may need specialist welding.

Fuel tanks and wheel rims would be better replaced, but if it's just on non-structural, cosmetic parts, wire brushing followed by a lick of Kurust and filled with Isopon (P38) before re-painting might do the job.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[whitebear]

thanks for your replies.

I'll get some photos uploaded tomorrow when there's sun light to help show the rust. Its dotted all over the place in patches which is annoying, much easier if it was one big area!

[_Iain_]

Lift the seat up, unbolt the petrol tank and remove it.

Have a good look down there, mine hid some major rust!

Stab at the rust with something pointy, fairly hard too. If it goes through then its going to want welding. Wire brush is a fairly good tool to have for getting the heavier stuff off.
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[whitebear]

[Taught2BCauti...]

You can get hand-held wire brushes and power tool wire brushes in a variety of shapes and types.

A 2" brass or steel one in an electric drill might be too harsh for some areas, and dangerous on flakey areas - where it would be better to use a scraper to get rid of the loose flakes first.

You can also get a cheap version of the electric 'Dremmel' tool, with many attachments for dealing with rust - wire brush discs, emery pads, polishing mops and stone wheels, etc.

In some cases of light surface rust, a quick rub-down with wet and dry paper or a scotchbrite pad, followed by ba coat of 'Kurust', is all you need before priming and painting.

Have a look on YouTube for some example videos.
____________________
Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[bikenut]

hi dude,

if your new to biking then a c90 is a wonderfull begining, and if you can convert to hand clutch and more gears ( some more power would be good also ) then they are more brilliant.

they can be thrown around back roads and even leave bigger bikes..........

however, they have a few family faults, one of which is the corrosion of the press steel frame, rear end.

pressed steel with doublers and reinforcement under the rear mudgaurd etc....designed in water traps and corrosions results.

you need to remove rear wheel, tank, battery etc and have a really good look for corrosion, it may be all the way through in places.

the frame ( pressed steel rear mudgaurd area ) is repairable if not gone too far, making steel plates of suitable thickness and welding in.

you need to check the mot manual on repair of frames but if well done, would not be obviouse.

after probing and shocking with a bit of 2by2, have many holes know.........

some pics and feedback for the site........

[bikenut]

hi dude,

if your new to biking then a c90 is a wonderfull begining, and if you can convert to hand clutch and more gears ( some more power would be good also ) then they are more brilliant.

they can be thrown around back roads and even leave bigger bikes..........

however, they have a few family faults, one of which is the corrosion of the press steel frame, rear end.

pressed steel with doublers and reinforcement under the rear mudgaurd etc....designed in water traps and corrosions results.

you need to remove rear wheel, tank, battery etc and have a really good look for corrosion, it may be all the way through in places.

the frame ( pressed steel rear mudgaurd area ) is repairable if not gone too far, making steel plates of suitable thickness and welding in.

you need to check the mot manual on repair of frames but if well done, would not be obviouse.

after probing and shocking with a bit of 2by2, have many holes know.........

some pics and feedback for the site........

[RIDINGforKICK...]

https://therustyshed.wordpress.com/

https://www.c90club.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1563&start=0

[garth]

Pics of rust plz.

Also check the swinger.

Which year C90?
____________________
You ain't a has been if you never was

[whitebear]

Being a newb i've just typed into google 'What is a swinger on a motorbike?' and no prizes for guessing what's come up

Not got round to taking any photos today and probably won't have a chance until Saturday or Sunday now.

It seems like i'm going to have to strip the whole bike which is daunting coz i've never done anything like this before. And every time I look at the bike is seems like new rust appears, almost like the little rust runt has been out while i've turned my back and added a few more bits of rust to it

C90 is 1985 so pretty old, but it did pass its MOT with flying colours one month back. I paid 600 for it, but i'm starting to think I got ripped off in light of all the rust . Anything less than that though seemed to be a full restore so maybe not.

[_Iain_]

Lol, i payed £250 for this fine example!

https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/319039_10150782942095054_816330053_20610732_7741176_n.jpg

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301055_10150782942155054_816330053_20610734_1580320_n.jpg

https://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/301545_10150782942040054_816330053_20610730_849160_n.jpg

Had 6months tax, and the same test on it. Bought it for the other half, to get to and from work on...she wanted something full fairing and sporty. I explained that if she could ride a month on that without smashing it to bits then i'd chip in and get her a CBR or something. Wasnt impressed. So i stripped it and did this...

https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/303162_10150800783750054_816330053_20801253_8371782_n.jpg

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/302906_10150800783845054_816330053_20801254_6650599_n.jpg

Chucked the busted white plastic bit in the bin, slapped on a pitbike air filter, flatted it all out, two cans of enamel black, and one tin of BBQ paint for the engine she looked a bit better. Exhaust was gone over with wire wool & WD40

https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/317644_10150800783955054_250151_n.jpg

And then after all of that, she said she still diddnt want it. So i proceeded to whack it up on gumtree & ended up selling it to a guy who'd been the 2nd/3rd owner (i was the 9th!) Who gave me the backstory of the bike. He recognised it straight away due to the repair patches on the side...apparently him and his mates used to rag the shit out of it round a field & the metal plate holding the numberplate together was put in following an off. He was also the one responsible for the patches on the frame

However, my point - i managed to totally strip and rebuild it with a socket set, a few spanners, and a couple of screwdrivers. No haynes manual, and no prior experience with bikes - Just make sure you take photo's of the electrics behind the clock before you disconnect ANYTHING.

Wish i'd kept it now!
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[garth]

I had rot on mine so I shortened the rear end.

Swinger = Swingarm / Swinging arm. I replaced my early one with a late one because it split, and I wanted tarty shocks.

https://oi40.tinypic.com/25514jq.jpg


I'm also doing a 7 Hour endurance race around Anglesey in April on a bog standard 12v Square cub.
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You ain't a has been if you never was

[Alpha-9]

My mate's after one of these

I think they're pretty awesome
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Fzr-600 1999

[_Iain_]

I realy, realy want that exhaust.

Might have to have a word and see how much it'll cost me to get a downpipe made up for the YBR. I take it its an ebay spec GP end can?

[Ariel Badger]

If you use a brush in a drill make sure you wear goggles, I have had bristles fly off and embed themselves in my face and chest.
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Bikers make great organ donors, get 115 on your licence today.