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I've put diesel oil in the bike...

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richie....
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: I've put diesel oil in the bike... Reply with quote

By accident..

My dad brought some oil in from work in an old oil bottle labled 10w40, now i thought it was abit left over from the car but no, it full on bloody diesel oil.

Now, I noticed strait away the clutch was fine before this, now I once know why. So, how can I sort this? New plates? Drain it off?

Can i used an engine cleaner addative? The bike has very little pull but can be ridden...

Ta all....
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've put diesel grade 10w40 in my bikes before, no hassle with me.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy some proper oil. Buy extra though so you can flush the old stuff out.

Sorted.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

10w - 40 Oil is pretty much the same, porbably some extra crap additvives for diesels.

To me its all a marketing hype. if its 10w - 40 for sure your be fine
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair point borgster.

If its actual diesel...remove it now Laughing
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
replace it with cheap 10W40, run the engine, drain that into a clean container, put it back in the bike, repeat a few times,


What does draining and putting it back in achieve?
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
replace it with cheap 10W40, run the engine, drain that into a clean container, put it back in the bike, repeat a few times,


What does draining and putting it back in achieve?


It flushes it through! Thumbs Up
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
I am very cross

. Shocked


Oh I wish I could get up a picture of a handbag Laughing Laughing Thumbs Up
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:


It flushes it through! Thumbs Up


But are you not just putting the contaminants back?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Fair point borgster.

If its actual diesel...remove it now Laughing


Diesel in the gearbox is a good way of cleaning all the crap out. I wouldn't run the engine with it in, well not for more than a couple of seconds anyway Wink . Sometimes though the crap is all that is stopping the engine leaking.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just thinking about oil. Im doing a clutch change next week and was wondering if I should go for the expensive bike oil or the cheap car oil.
Im skin but don't want to save on the pennies and end up spending the pounds to fix things.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^You telling me that in all the years of BCF-ing you haven't read a 'What Oil?' thread.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used nothing else but diesel engine oil in my bikes for the past five years or more. Your slipping clutch might simply be that you put too much in.

If you want some peace of mind just drain it out and put different oil in. You don't need to change the clutch plates or anything like that.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 30 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
^^^You telling me that in all the years of BCF-ing you haven't read a 'What Oil?' thread.


Not thatI remembered or cared for at the time, but now I care . Embarassed
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Robby
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PostPosted: 09:14 - 31 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also run my bike on 10W40 for diesel engines for years. Supposedly a higher detergent content, and better at holding crap in suspension than a 10W40 for petrol engines. This is useful in a bike engine with a wet clutch, which will generate more particulates.

Check your clutch adjustment first, coincidences like that do happen. If you need to change it, don't use a flush or worry too much about flushing with new oil. Get it good and hot to drain the oil, move the bike around a bit when it has almost finished draining so anything caught in a nook or cranny will drain down, then refill with normal oil and ride. Allow a few miles for any of the dodgy oil to get mixed in/diluted by the new oil.

Job done.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 31 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
pepperami wrote:


It flushes it through! Thumbs Up


But are you not just putting the contaminants back?



Hmmmm? maybe, but as the oil goes through does it not pick up contaminants and suspend them in the oil, which you then drain?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 31 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It suspends them in the oil until it gets to the filter, where they are captured.
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richie....
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 11:47 - 31 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

no, i dont know the grade of oil thats in, but i do know its diesel oil, probably for high mileage vans.

ill just drain it and put proper bike stuff in...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 31 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
but i do know its diesel oil, probably for high mileage vans


That's a big difference to bog standard diesel oil. We have two types of oil at work - the normal stuff that goes in our site plant and the 'long life' oil that they use in the vans with their 16k mile oil-changes.

I use the normal oil, not the long-life. That stuff will make your clutch slipperier than a Labour Party spin-doctor.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 31 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vans usually use a car-derived engine and often use a light duty diesel oil, which is the same as a car diesel engine oil, which will also be suitable for use in a petrol engine.

Trucks use a totally different specification system and hence have different oils that have limited or no petrol engine coverage.

There's little chance that a 10W-40 will be full of friction modifiers since this isn't really a fuel economy viscosity grade.
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