Flywheel removal...

[andym]

I've had to order a flywheel removal tool because the one I made wasn't up to the job.

Now it might sound a bit stupid, but the nut has been removed, is there anything else that locks the flywheel in place? You know like a washer or something?

This is still on the nightmare 50cc scooter engines that I'm trying to strip, but they seem to be fighting every step of the way.

I thought I'd use a nice thick steel bar (about 5mm ish), drilled 3 holes in it (which took about 2 hours to do), put it all in place and started to tighten up the edge bolts.... and the bar just bent in the middle.

I know the nut was a bit of a job to remove, so is it just the same problem with the flywheel? Do they locktite them too?

[SpannerMonkey]

Usually they're a tapered interference fit... Get a gear puller on it if you're struggling to get it off...
Im really tired, but the way I'm reading this is the flywheel part of the charging system has had the nut removed but will not come off... in which case, a gear puller will be the best bet, Had a very similar problem with the clutches on my Tomos...
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My bike? A YX140 powered one-off Monkey Bike, something a little different!

[Frost]

Yup they're hard to get off even once the nut is off. I don't own a flywheel puller yet i've always managed to get mine off. I honestly can't remember how, but i know it's do-able and i suspect it involved a lump hammer

[andym]

if it was mine I wouldn't have a problem with a lump hammer... or even a sledge hammer for that matter, but I have to make sure I can get at least one of them off in one piece.

Anyhoo, while I'm here, if lumps of metal fell out the sump when I took the oil out, what is most likely to have been destroyed? The nuggets were definitely aluminum and they had been badly chewed up, is it possible one of the gears has smashed.... also if there was anything that badly damaged would it stop the engine from turning over properly and causing bad compression... although to be fair it doesn't make any rattly noises when I tried to start it.... but I replaced the piston and barrel with no joy.... so now stripping the engine is the only thing left to try.

It's got to the point where I'm seriously considering scrapping both engines and losing the money buying a replacement so I can get the scooter to fuck and get back to my GPz

[orac]

i use a harmonic balance puller and a impact gun. depending on the puller they normally have a way off holding them with another spanner or something
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Current rides - 2016 Triumph Street Triple Rx, 1994 Suzuki Bandit 400 VM, TGB 204 Classic 125cc
"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[_Iain_]

Dont any of theese flywheels on the small CC engines have a bolt hole you could wind a long bolt into so it pressed against some part of strengthened crankcase?

Just a thought!
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[Robby]

It's just a very tight interference fit on the crank. A flywheel puller threads into the flywheel itself, then another bolt inside the flywheel puller exerts pressure on the end of the crank to force the flywheel off. It takes a lot of force, more than enough to flatten steel box section or scrape (damage) the flywheel with a homemade tool.

Don't use a 3-legged puller. You can damage the flywheel, and damage the crank using one. You shouldn't need to use a hammer, but you will need some muscle and a couple of strong spanners to use the flywheel puller.

[karthead]

Ahh i dealt with this problem with my KE125 without a flywheel puller. Just do the following:
1) Get 2 people (including yourself)
2) Get two screwdrivers and put them both underneath the flywheel on the opposite sides of one another (get 1 person to do this)
3) put a crap load of tension against the flywheel (pull it outwards from the engine)
4) With the other person, get a big fat screw and a hammer, and give the end of the crankshaft a solid tap (with the screw between the hammer and crankshaft) while the other person continues to put loads of tension on the flywheel. (This may take a few goes). When your tapping, make sure you to it relatively hard but not too hard so that it will damage the thread. Also, make sure you are going tapping it directly downwards and not slightly to the side, or it wont work.

There may be a circular magnetic locking pin thingo (there was with mine) that holds the flywheel in place.

Good luck!

If it doesnt come off you should consider

[andym]

I got the puller through today... first of all I thought it wasn't going to fit hole was 23mm so I bought 24 to allow for threads... eventually went in fine, cue me with 17 and 19mm spanners and quite a lot of effort at an awkward angle then TWAAAANG, spanners go flying one way (well 2 ways actually) I fall more or less flat on my face and my first thought is shit I've broke the tool already... checks the flywheel and everything looks as it should, puller still in place so I try turning the bolt by hand and magically the flywheel lifts off easily.

After that stripping the engine down was a piece of cake.... only problem is.... after close inspection of both engines internally.... nothing is broken off, no damage in either engine... so I'm trying to figure out where the hell the metal nuggets came from. Just looking through the newest parts of both engines and trying to get one that runs... but first impression... is they are both fine... so why the hell won't the scooter run?