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Finding confidence once youve passed..

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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Finding confidence once youve passed.. Reply with quote

Without pushing it too far..

Anyone got any advice for a recently passed DAS biker, im 26, on a Z750, its a very fast bike and it feels alot more useable and comfortable than the 500 I learnt on, but I find it hard deciding on riding lines and what speed to approach and carry into corners..

is this normal for new bikers, to be braking late before corners because I feel like im carrying too much speed into a corner or not the right line? I sometimes find I turn to tight into a corner and have to re-check my line....

Its also quite intimidating going out with sports bike riders who have alot more experience and disappear into the distance, I guess its paramount to remember that I dont play catch up...

Has anyone got any advice? Laughing
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of riding and lots of practise. Go at your own speed though, don't fall into the trap of keeping up with faster riders.

Also search for Twist of the Wrist on You Tube - some very informative videos.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think at the end of the day you just gotta take it steady. It was annoying for me at first seeing my friends sod off in front and leave me behind, but it will come to you. Some good advice helped me get better at judging corners, therefore being able to take them faster.

Basically if you're hitting a left corner stay on the RHS of the road, you can see further into the corner and out of the otherside, therefore you stop that jittery shit that happens if you stayed in the left where you are insure how steep it is. Laughing

Little bits like that, drill into your riding. Also they say after 10k miles your subconscious remembers all the little things and it comes naturally. I've done about 6k miles in four months I've owned a proper bike and I'm feeling pretty good on it.

I've still got a hell of a lot to learn, but my aim is to get really good in the twisties. Cool
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

DAS Newbie... who how common.
Well you took a short cut, & jumped in the deep-end, being brutal, WHAT did you expect?
You've passed the tests to ride a big-bike, but you've done fuck all 'learning' to ride one.

Time on a tiddler is rarely wasted.

They are light, underpowered and unforgiving. Bike bikes have a lot of weight that gives them tremendous stability, which can damp a lot of clumsiness.

Time on a 125 would have given you a far more accute sense of precission, getting the bike balences, and being much neater and tidier picking your lines and holding them.

As well as laid down a foundation of core machine control, on which to build confidence.

Fast-Tracking that, you have got a pre-fab on soft soil; you will NEVER get the same level of confidence.

Advice? Get a tiddler, not necesserily a learner legal, but something smaller and lighter and less forgiving, and learn to rag the arse off it.

THAT is how you lay down the foundation confidence AND get the experience that lets you apreciate what a big bike like a Z750 is actually doing for you.

Twist of the Wrist?

I am sick and tired of hearing that bludy bit of media being promoted!

Keith Cody has some great ideas, but he teached ADVANCED riding, is an exponent of cheap tricks like counter-steering, and is significantly interested only in riding sports-bikes.

It is NOT even a good basis for learning 'advanced' riding!

And it is certainly NOT applicable here, with some-one who has just discovered what I am forever warning about with the perils of Intensive DAS.... hiiting the road, with less than a week of preparation, and finding yourself for the first time, ona very big, bery powerful, very fast bike, and WITHOUT the guiding voice of the instructor in your ear-ole, suddenly trying to remember everything you were tought, in an incredibly short space of time, AND trying to make sense of it!

You just have to RIDE, basically and figure it out. It WILL come... here and now, bike you have probably isn't doing you any favours, something you can 'rag' might.

I DONT even advocate further training at this juncture for simple reason that what you lack is confidence and confidence comes from experience, theory will only take you so far, you have to put it into practice and get that "Ah! SO THAT is what they meant!" proving what you were told, and putting it in its place, and THAT is what you dont get learning in a hurry via intensive DAS courses.

But you DO get from riding Tiddlers whose limits are far more restrictive and much more readily discovered.
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Alex_B
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon, that is the best fekin post you've ever written and it wasn't even that long Laughing

I read a lot here, of yours and everyone else's and I don't always agree but that is really profound Thumbs Up

Trying not to sound patronising here as well Wink

Good one mate!
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HJM
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

tef must have a word document with all the perfect advice anyone could possible need. Razz
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Fowlersrs
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
DAS Newbie... who how common.
Well you took a short cut, & jumped in the deep-end, being brutal, WHAT did you expect?
You've passed the tests to ride a big-bike, but you've done fuck all 'learning' to ride one.

Time on a tiddler is rarely wasted.

They are light, underpowered and unforgiving. Bike bikes have a lot of weight that gives them tremendous stability, which can damp a lot of clumsiness.

Time on a 125 would have given you a far more accute sense of precission, getting the bike balences, and being much neater and tidier picking your lines and holding them.

As well as laid down a foundation of core machine control, on which to build confidence.

Fast-Tracking that, you have got a pre-fab on soft soil; you will NEVER get the same level of confidence.

Advice? Get a tiddler, not necesserily a learner legal, but something smaller and lighter and less forgiving, and learn to rag the arse off it.

THAT is how you lay down the foundation confidence AND get the experience that lets you apreciate what a big bike like a Z750 is actually doing for you.

Twist of the Wrist?

I am sick and tired of hearing that bludy bit of media being promoted!

Keith Cody has some great ideas, but he teached ADVANCED riding, is an exponent of cheap tricks like counter-steering, and is significantly interested only in riding sports-bikes.

It is NOT even a good basis for learning 'advanced' riding!

And it is certainly NOT applicable here, with some-one who has just discovered what I am forever warning about with the perils of Intensive DAS.... hiiting the road, with less than a week of preparation, and finding yourself for the first time, ona very big, bery powerful, very fast bike, and WITHOUT the guiding voice of the instructor in your ear-ole, suddenly trying to remember everything you were tought, in an incredibly short space of time, AND trying to make sense of it!

You just have to RIDE, basically and figure it out. It WILL come... here and now, bike you have probably isn't doing you any favours, something you can 'rag' might.

I DONT even advocate further training at this juncture for simple reason that what you lack is confidence and confidence comes from experience, theory will only take you so far, you have to put it into practice and get that "Ah! SO THAT is what they meant!" proving what you were told, and putting it in its place, and THAT is what you dont get learning in a hurry via intensive DAS courses.

But you DO get from riding Tiddlers whose limits are far more restrictive and much more readily discovered.


Just to elaborate a little, I spent about 18 Months on a decent 125 when I was younger, but for 5 years ive not had anything with 2 wheels and now as youve said im on a big bike and the confidence is simply not in existence...

so put simply, ride ride ride will bring confidence in my own abilities yeah, ive looked at these castle coombe and bike safe days and im basically just gonna try and cram is as much different types of riding as I can I think.. do you think this is the right thing to do?

I guess I could buy a project tiddler, I do feel ok on the Z750 but I guess a less powerful bike would be better for pushing hard to learn things as u have for mentioned, what would u recommend?
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Werny
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stay on the Zed. Ride it slowly, learn how the bike handles and learn what it can do.

Only time spent on it will get you used to it. Jump off it now, back onto a smaller one and all you'll do is get used to the smaller one. The zed will still scare you when you get back on it later.

You will only benefit from riding it, go and do it! A lot Mr. Green
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shazza65
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can, do the BikeSafe day (usually free) with your local police. That will give you some great tips. Or do some more training hours with a motorcycling school.
Failing all of these, because additional training can be pricey, just ride ride ride. Get some tips from local bikers.
You cannot beat experience, but if you want to be safe and learn correctly, I would suggest local lessons and the BikeSafe day.
Practice slow riding a lot. This is invaluable.
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Themightyimp
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still trying to get my confidence up.I'm ok when I have a mate riding behind me,but I still worry when I have nobody sat behind me.
I have no worries about getting rapidly up to speed on the straights,but for some reason I slow down TOO much for corners.I am getting quicker at corners,but still not fast enough as cars catch me when i'm cornering.
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Englishman
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will all come with practice. Time on a proper bike is rarely wasted.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Englishman wrote:
It will all come with practice. Time on a proper bike is rarely wasted.


You can ride a big bike a life time and NEVER ride it properly.... and many never do.
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Themightyimp
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Englishman wrote:
It will all come with practice. Time on a proper bike is rarely wasted.


You can ride a big bike a life time and NEVER ride it properly.... and many never do.

So what is your tip for getting confidence up for cornering Tef?
I've not questioned you before.
But please give me advice on this one.
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Sload
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PostPosted: 00:33 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Themightyimp wrote:
So what is your tip for getting confidence up for cornering Tef?
I've not questioned you before.
But please give me advice on this one.


Ill tell you, just take your time and stop worrying. As with everything in life, the more you do it the better you get.
As Tef pointed out, you are still overloaded so anything extra to take in at this point will more then likely hinder you, I speak from experience.

My 2 cents, CBT, very shaky, bought a 125, that got me up to test standards. Passed my tests and changed to a speed four. Now this is a bit different, even from the XJ6 I was learning on. The biggest difference being not having an instructor behind tempering my riding or an examiner scrutinising me into proficiency. It was so different that in my excitement of being 'free' on the ride home I pinned it after a rolling start. Was great fun unleashing it fully for the first time ever and quite shocking with the pace till the front wheel lifted. didn't realise at first, just the front end going light and then she jumped up. In my blind panic reaction I cut the throttle and she dropped hard with turn, only just stayed on it. Since then I have developed a bit more caution to my riding.

Just take your time, learn the bike and dont try to fly before you can crawl, may save you some close shaves or a bucket full of pain Embarassed
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tlartist
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PostPosted: 04:25 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turn head to look into corner, go in a little slower and accelerate through the corner. Helps with stability. Hanging off some on the inside of the corner, and keeping head as level as possible also helps.
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Englishman
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PostPosted: 08:12 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Englishman wrote:
It will all come with practice. Time on a proper bike is rarely wasted.


You can ride a big bike a life time and NEVER ride it properly.... and many never do.


True Dat.
And you can also ride a 125 for life, never having had any advanced instruction, just coasting through CBT's every two years, and never ride that properly.
Tef, I agree that time spent on a 125 is useful - I just don't think that it's the exclusive path to competence. I'm learning every time I go out, consciously learning. I agree that buying a hayabusa as a first bike, (and via an intensive DAS course you would be on that for the 6th time that you had ever been on a bike), would be a poor choice. The jump from a 125 to a mid-size bike is not so enormous that you learn nothing that would have learned on the tiddler. Both sizes are plenty big enough to make it Game Over. Learning continues if you have any sense, and that right wrist is your best weapon against not being able to learn any longer.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: RIDE LIKE YOUR BRAKES BE BROKE! Reply with quote

OK, debates evolving; and without going through individual comments & quotes, mainly becouse my Net-Connection is on a major go-slo....

Reason I say that serving some time on tiddlers puts down such a core foundation skillset, is that being light, and usually quite significantly under powered, they lack stability, and they lack speed.

The lack of stability, means that JUST not to wobble when pulling away, you have to aquire quite fine, delicate levels of control, and more acute balence, not just in tight-rope walk gravity balencing, but in balencing clutch, throttle brakes etc.

On the road, without any great 'reserve' of power, you then need to make the most of the little you have to maintyain a road speed. You have to work the gear-box to get at the limited power the bike has, AND you have to get quite 'canny' when and where you make those gear changes, as its all to easy to loose too much speed, down gearing too early, or to loose 'drive' changing up too soon, or to put yourself in a situiation, like a corner where you run out of revs, half way through trying to accelerate out of it, or conversely, 'bog' in too high a gear without any acceleration to help pull you round.

Working with the basics, but in pretty limited quantities, you HAVE to get a good 'feel' for what those comodities are doing for you and how to use them to best effect.

The anaology is that you cant apreciate affluence, if you have never been poor.... If you have always been able to 'get-by', on a 'sufficiency', and never really had to struggle to put a meal together from base ingredients, its hard to know the real worth of a decent meal, no matter how fancy the restuirant its served in.

By the time you have a bike with maybe 50+bhp, you have an 'affluence' of capability. That bike will have the power to comfortably do perhaps 110mph, and ought to have brakes, and suspension that are of a similar standard for that level of performance. And consequently, though it might not be an AWFUL lot of excess, its still 'enough' of an exces to give some useful buffer.

Bikes down there with less than 30bhp, are going to make you work for everything, and its only by MAKING you work you will really start to learn.

Working for performance, being 'hard' to get, makes it valuable, makes it worth trying for, and makes it rewarding and satisfying when you get it.

Cracking a combination of curiousely cambered esses, on a 125, and managing to haul through them at 60 almost wide open, is a real 'buzz'...

And I have an actual combination in my head I've ridden many many times, and I'm far from an inexperienced rider, and was far from being a novice the first time I rode that combination... on a moped, over quarter of a century ago!

First time, tight bend aproaching, I rolled off... I was on a MOPED! I was doing like 35-40mph, max, BUT, cars that had gone past me moments earlier on teh straight, were braking for that first corner, and the gap they had opened was getting smaller.... I rolled off.....

Tipping in to the right, the road rises, and then sweeps back to the left, jinks a little back to the right and drops down a steeper slope.....

Rolling off, I had that LITTLE bit of 'reserve' to accelerate out of teh first bend, and up teh rise, into teh second corner, rolling off a tad for that, then having gravity assist my acceleration as I apexed out of it.....

16 years old, "Oh! FUN!"

Day by day, riding teh same road to college every morning, it wasn't long before I was holding the bike wide-Open through the entire series, and coming down the hill, after, tearing my gaze from the nasty cross roads half way down, to see what I was nudging on the speedo!

"Will I see 50 before the junction? 45, 46, come on, 48 YES, BIT more PLEASE!"

Oh, to be 16 again.... and have Acne, a bad har-cut, a moaning mother and no girlfreind.... Hmmm maybe not!

OK.... 125... 19 years old now.

I actually tried 'short-cutting' 125's, via training. I had been riding since I was nine, and been competing in organised trials, and had cut my teeth on 'big-bangers' off-road. 125's, for the sake of getting the licence, seemed to me, at the time, a waste of time. The 50 had been written off by a SMIDSY, and at 17, my family conspired to get me driving lessons for my birthday and the tests for Christmas.

At the time, if you had a provisional licence with motorcycle entitlement it was only valid for two years, and if you didn't pass tests in those two years, you had to wait 12months before you could re-apply. Not like noe, where you can just re-take CBT. BUT, pass car tests, the provisional entitlement was awarded for the life of the licence.... which in my case was 43 years!

Co-Incidentally, it was also the era of the original, 'Two-Part' test. We didn't have CBT before you could ride, nor did we have the Mod 1 off-road and Mod 2 Practical. We had the Part 1 test and the Part 2 Test, Part 1 being rather like modern Mod 1, but was conducted by a Riding School, rather like CBT, and it did eventually get expanded to become CBT. However, there were NOT very many places you could 'Do' a Part 1. I had choice of about three or four Driving Test Centres near me; I lived in Stratford upon Avon, and withing 15 miles in any Direction, I had stratford-Upon-Avons test centre, Leamington Spa's, Studley & Redditch's, And Sheldon/Solihul, and possibly one or two others!

There was NO-WHERE in Stratford I could do a 'Part 1'. There was somewhere in Coventry, and a mate told me another in Evesham, but these places were NOT well, advertised or easy to find out about! We didn't have the 'net in them days, it was almost entirely word of mouth in the local bike shops, or small ads MAYBE in the back of MCN.

AND, these Riding Schools that gave 'Part 1' were not organised schools, like we have now. In some cases it was simply a mechanic or salesman AT a bike shop, and they would set up the course in the shop car-park, to test you, on a bike you bought from THAT shop!

I didn't HAVE a 125, and didn't really WANT one.... ten years learning spannering to keep competition bike fettled, meaning I was constantly asked to come have a look at whatever carnage my mates had done to thier GP100 or whatever!

But there was ONE larger more proffessional school in the midlands, Star-Rider, in Small-Heath, birmingham, who I knew off, becouse they shared a site with Vale Onslow's Trials Park, a youth offender scheme, where I took my trials bike for 'practice'. And THEY had bikes to hire.

So I booked a course. WHICH went great guns. I turned up to do the full course in two days, told I would have my Part 1 test either on Saturday afternoon, or Sunday morning, and then do some road training and be sent on my way to book a test, for which I could rent a school bike...

As was I had my Part 1 cert in my hand by 12noon on Saturday, and spent the rest of teh week-end, out on the road. Sunday, having almost one to one tuition, tearing around the back-lanes of North Warks with a coppa on a BMW R80, egging me on to go faster, and checking my brake lamps, becouse he thought it had blown..... of which I shall return!

Anyway... that was the plan, but it was rather foiled when Star-Rider went BUST! nd Iw as left without a hire-bike for tests. And after a couple of tries on borrowed bikes, I gave up... not through lack of dedication, 'other things' in my life were deemed more important.... like finding some-where to LIVE! I was an A-Level student with a part time job, and my mother, decided to move sixty miles away to Stafford with her boy-freind and let the lease on the house expire...... "WELL you COULD come with me?" she said.... so worse, to all extents and purposes I was 'volunterily' home-less!

Then, as now, bikes were expensive to buy, cars cheap. And I bought an old Morris Minor Pick-Up for £250, which I was able to insure for £90! THAT I think is big difference! My Montesa trials bike on the back....for eleven months I lived in this 30 year old banger, on mates floors or at variouse relatives, until I went to Uni! By which time the old Moggy was DEAD..... AND with Student loan I got a Kawasaki 125. NOT so much as to get my licence on, but becouse it was about the only thing I could afford to run on Student grant.

But tests were booked.... and every time I got an apointment, bludy bike got nicked! It was the early days of the modern 'Persuit' test, with an examiner following you, rather than standing on a windy street corner, and they didn't have enough examiners, and test waits could be as much as four or five months! I bought the bike in May 1990, and passed my 'test' in February 1992... twenty years ago, this year!

But 18 months of NOT getting test apointments, or having to cancell them... I was FORCED into that Tiddler-Aprenticeship I now so strongly reccomend.

By the end of it, I have to admit, I was more than a little frustrated suffering the limitations of a lightweight, and I was wise enough to realise that if I stayed on one any longer I WOULD have seriousely hurt myself, becouse my confidence had grown SO much, I WAS ragging the arse off that little bike, like you would NOT believe, and it was actually something of a relief, when it was finally nicked NOT to be returned... or at least returned an anything resembling a motorbike!

But back to this combination of Esses, and Summer of 1990, I was still homeless, but staying the summer with relatives, back in Stratford, and had a work-placement near my old college, so was back to that 'old' commuter run, now on the 125... AND.... same story.

Down the Alveston Straight, this time NOT being over taken by cars, reaching the gate-house corner, and rolling off... EEK! brake, tip in, go round about 35, accelerate out, and then, learning its a good idea to roll OFF as you crest a ridge.....

HANG ON! I did that first bit faster on my MOPED..... and so the learning process starts again..... and BY the end of the summer, I was taking that combination at the speed limit, 60, without brakes.... two summers later, full licence in my pocket, same bike, I was taking it at the same speed TWO UP.

It is ALL doen to practice and experience. BUT, on a bike that makes you WORK for it.

Ridden same road on my VF1000 and my CB750, and I know I OUGHT to be able to 'cruise through' that combination, at 60 per on either bike, with barely a wif of throttle adjustment and tipping the bugger in.....

BUT, on the bigger bikes, with more mass to manage, but a bigger, more flexible reserve of power; INSTINCTIVELY I will as often BRAKE, tip and accelerate... Im NO SQUID, by a very large measure, but it IS an instinctive thing to do, Brake Turn Accelerate. Its just the way we are wired.

Thing is, bikes WILL go round corners with a LESS work, if you apply technique, and exploit the way they turn, and said it elsewhere this week... BIKES STEER BY LEANING.... slow down, you reduce centrifugal forces, therfore you reduce the cornering force you have to hold you up against 'lean'....

And this is what Tiddlers are very good at teaching you. You cant generate cornering forces from acceleration on them, becouse they dont have bog all 'acceleration', so you have to do it by holding a tighter line, and leaning the bike hard over....

Oh, hold on, every-one is obsessed with 'Knee Down' and 'Hanging off' holding the bike MORE upright.....

Yeah..... that dont help!

LOOKS dramatic, BUT, very IDEA you have to hold the bike upright, becouse the cornering limits are that fine, DOESN'T HELP....

And learning on a big bike where you HAVENT had a tiddler heeled right over, the pegs scraping, while you try and keep tucked in, to stop yourself being a human parachute and wasting speed against wind resistance, you dont get that.... HANG ON! I have had this little bike thats no where NEAR as stable, or 'Planted' on teh road, on SKINNY bludy little tyres, round there, decked out! FFS, I OUGHT to be able to get this bludy great thing round there at LEAST leaned more than 30 degrees! Kind of comparative revelation!

So, back to the Bobby on the Beemer with a Brake lamp fettish, back in the Spring of 1987.....

Day one and his partner in crime, litterally, a fellow BMW Bobby, looked at my 'class' of I think eight students, with Acne and borrowed leather jackets, and gave us 'The Talk'... a significant part of which was to FORGET FAST......

This was the first five minutes of my first ever motorcycle lesson, and its a pearl of wisdom, I still repeat to this day and have handed down to countles 'Newbs' when it was MY turn to give that pep talk.... (It was that same Bobby, who suggested, back in 1991, when I found out he was working for a different school, and asked him for a couple of lessons before one of my cancelled tests, he actually suggested I think about instructing... but that's a way off!)

We DONT RUSH... Rushing is a FAST way to get hurt on a bike.....

Talk went on about how they rode old, ex police, BMW R80's and gave advanced courses, and would up the pace in the early part to the point that GSX or Ducatti mounted braggards couldn't keep up.... JUST to prove the point, it ent what you got, its what you do with it that counts, and warning thet the Bike Coppas didn't care how fast a bike you had, if you ran, they'd chase you down.

Anyway, Saturday, on Road Training, we went out, and it was a melee... we had a South African Speed Freak, who thought that his S.A licence was valid in this country and had been cought speeding on a GSXR750 and had to get a licence in ahurry, so they could put points on it, a lad who truned up on a Spacey Scooter who could NOT turn right... and I DONT mean negotiate a right turn at a junction... lad could NOT turn the handlebars or lean to the right! HOW he got to the school on what was his own bike, boggled the brain... and then we had a cheeky brummy on an RXS100, who saw the red mist, and went tearing off toweards redditch after some random bike that over took us all! Sunday, I was out on my own with this Beemer Bobby, and after an hour or so of round the houses, decided we ought to go do some 'lanes' and have a bit of fun.

Some where around Knowle he pulled me over, and wanted to check my brake light, which he explained, was becouse he thoiught it was only working 'intermittantly'..... and was surprised when he tested it and it was fine.... to the point he took lense off and waggled the bulb and tried again....

"You USING, your brakes?" He asked, perplexed
"When I need to...." I replied confused....

He gave me one of those apraising looks, then deciding I wasn't being cheeky or bullshitting him, went on to explain a 'litle game' he and his Beemer-Buddy played..... and wanted us to try, and that was to

PRETEND THE BRAKES DONT WORK

Idea is to try and ride a challenging bit of twisty country road, and pretend you have NO brakes. You have to ride it ALL purely on the throttle with engine braking, and it MEANS, being neat and precice in your riding.

You HAVE to get the bike lined up for a corner, and you have to arrive at the corner at PRECICELY the speed you want to go round it.... if your brake lamp comes on, YOU LOOSE.... and following rider goes past, and you play the game until his brake lamp comes on.

ONLY place brake liamp is allowed is at a junction. Everywhere else, NO BRAKES.

And the idea is to up the pace, so that you are tackling the corners PURELY on LINE and LEAN.

And it is a VERY good excersise to lift the bar and develop a 'smooth' progressive riding style and learn to carry more speed through corners, with much less agressive braking and acceleration.

Hard braking and Hard acceleration are strong and de-stabilising forces, and USING more braking than you need, to over-slow for a corner is actually MORE likely to make you crash than leaning the bike over, and hurding it round.

Its often an eye-opener HOW far a bike can lean, and how far it can lean at reletively slow speeds, and NOT flip out from under you or start to drift. In all probability a your bike CAN lean nuch further than you can!

Meanwhile, hard braking and hard turning and hard acceleration ALL heaviliy load the tyres, and its magnified by the amoint of weight shift these attitude changing forces create.

Tyre had certain 'grip'. It can transmit only a certain amount of Newtons between the road and the wheel, beyond that it WILL slide.

Tyre doesn't really CARE whether the newtons of load its reacting are cornering forces, braking forces, steering forces or acceleration forces... it just cares how much it can take. And the more you load it with ONE commodity, less its going to have to react another....

You KNOW that if you grab a big fist full of front brake.... well, unless you have the reflexes of a cat... you CRASH. You KNOW that the BIGGEST forces you can generate on a motorbike are on the front brake...

So what would you RATHER to dith the tyres grip? Use it to slow you down to a snails pace to potter round a corner like a granny bolt upright.... OR lean the fucker over and ride it like a MOTORBIKE?

Chunk of text taken from post on Counter-Steering, the point of which is basically BIKES STEER BY LEANING.

Quote:
Turn the steering wheel of a car to the left, it deflects the front wheels to the left, making car steer to the left, and creating a centrifugal reaction to the right.

On a bike, if you positively TURN the bars the way you want to go at anything much over walking pace, like you were steering a car... you would PROBABLY crash, or at least go into a horrible wobble!

The 'dynamic' interplay of forces involved in steering a motorcycle, are a lot more... 'intricate'... 'involved' or 'complicated'... depending on your view point.

If you 'tilt' a wheel in relation to the surface its rolling on, it traverses and arc, rather than a straight line.

You feel this on a bike, when you are on a bit of steeply cambered road, and you have to 'steer' against the tilt to go in a straight line.

In a car, a lot of the subtlety of steering is lost. Same effects are there, but there are two steered wheels, and they are usually 'pre-tilted' by a 'camber angle'. The front wheels will lean 'out' at the top, usually (Positive Camber), they also are steered 'in' towards each other, 'steering alignment', or the 'toe-in' angle. So the two steered wheels on a car, are normally in a state of 'competition' each steering slightly 'in' from the toe-in angle, as well as slightly 'out' from the camber angle, and each wheel, competing with each other 'scrubbing' for the car to follow a nominal path the average of the two contra-steering wheels!

And the shear 'scales' involved, the mass of the vehicle, the actual wheel base, etc, mean that the smaller subtler forces of things like weight shift or gyroscopic progression, where they aren't passively reacted by the veihicle having stable 'base' of four point contact with the road, TEND to be an awful lot less 'significant' in terms of the magnitude of forces in play, and usually, deminish to something we can consider effectively 'not there'.

See, even a CAR's steering isn't THAT simple!

Back to bikes: when you steer a motorbike, much over walking pace you DONT actually do so by positively deflecting the front wheel in relation to the rear, which is in effect how a car steers.

You steer a bike by tilting it to the road.

I halt there in the explanation, becouse this is where people will start to huff and puff and interject. NO. The primary mechanism a motorcycle STEERS is by LEANING. And you will actually lean the bike before you start generating cornering forces.

ONCE the bike has started to turn, you get gyroscopic cornering forces..... the 'mass' of bike and rider, acting through combined centre of gravity.... a point usually somewhere close to the riders bum...... trying to carry on in a straight line.

But the steering forces are coming from the contact patch between the bikes tyres and road, which are on the floor, some distance beneath the centre of gravity, so you get a 'couple' or a torque, the centrifugal force trying to push the bike over, over the top of the tyres.

And SECONDARY effect of leaning, is that you can 'balence' that couple, by leaning over the inside of the contact patch, so that GRAVITY is providing the reaction to stop those cornering forces throwing the bike over the outside of the corner.

Backing up, I said you would 'lean' the bike, before you actually start leaning.... interplay is a little more hazy, AND we have to take into account the huge variance of different rider's 'style' or how they ACTUALLY do it... BUT, working on pretty broad generalities....

BEFORE you start turning, YOU lean body in relation to the bike, in the direction you want to go. The BIKE, will actually lean very SLIGHTLY the other way.

Sounds wrong but bear with me. Bike is balenced on two points of contact. imagine two Sumo-Wrestlers... on Roller Skates! One leans against other, and pushes, but without a good grip on the floor, if he pushed his oponenet, he is as likely to go backwards from his own push as his oponent is...

So, if YOU shift your upper bodyweight to the left, then the small force of you pushing your bodyweight in that direction will tend to make the bike move slightly to the right.

THAT is the very first 'part' of steering a motorcycle.

Within the variable of rider 'style' its LIKELY that the rider will use a very small amount of sub-conciouse counter steering at the same time... PROBABLY as they twist and lean thier upper body. Think about it; if you tilt your shoulders slightly to the left, then you will change the angle between your shoulder and handle-bars, and the distance between left hand bar and left hand shoulder will get ever so slightly shorter, distance other side ever so slightly loinger, and you WILL, change your arm possition to account for that change of 'attitude' and in so doing, very SLIGHTLY 'push' the left hand bar, and instigate SOME 'Gyroscopic Progression' from the force... BUT you need not.

Entirely possible to steer a bike, without touching the bars. AND you do it by this 'ahead-leaning'.

You want to go left; you lean a bit TO the LEFT, bike reacts and tilts beneath you ever so slightly to the RIGHT.

NOW, as you do THAT, the bike tyres to steer to the RIGHT, becouse, tilted that way THAT is the way the curve of the wheels will 'steer'...

And at THIS point, all hell breaks loose amongst the forces brought in to 'play'!

The vehicle's inherent 'Stability' by virtue of it's mass, speed and steering geometry, will effect how much the bike reacts, and how much 'lag' there is between cause and effects, BUT...

The bike DOES have stability, and THAT gives is a resistive force that wants the bike to carry on going in a straight line, and resists the 'steer' started by leaning left, causing bike to TRY and turn right.....

That 'stabilising force' will try and 'centre' the steering, but co-incidentally, we also have a 'cornering force' come into play...

The stabilising force, is trying to push the bike BACK upright, and steer it to the left.... only so far as to carry on in a straight line, but its acting in THAT direction.

The cornering force from steering 'RIGHT' is trying to tip the bike over to the LEFT, through that 'couple' I mentioned before.... ONLY you are NOT reacting it, leaning into that cornering force, YOU are leaning away from it, over the other side of the bike....

Result? TWO forces, the 'reaction' to you leaning left, causing BIKE to steer RIGHT.... both HELPING to 'lean' the bike back to the LEFT, the way you WANT to go......

As these are 'Helpful' forces, you dont conciousely apreciate them, and you feel the bike 'lean' the way you are leaning, so you probably think, if you think at all, its YOU tilting the bike that way.... BUT in reality, the 'effect' is from the perverse reaction to you tilting the BIKE the other way!

HAS to be like that, becouse, its like the two Sumo's on Roller Skates again; every action has an equal and opposite reaction, and you shifting to the left, HAS to cause bike to shift to the right.... Its JUST that the reactions to THAT then 'help' you go the way you want!

OK, audience! Has your brain MELTED YET! Mine has! But I'll carry on anyway!

Right, so cause and effect, you want to go left, you LEAN left, bike reacts tilting right, steering right, and in reaction to THAT, stability force and momentary right hand cornering force, CHUCKS you back to the left, way you want to go.

Bike LEANING in relation to the surface, now to the left, makes it STEER to the left... the stability force and centrifugal forces, flip directions and try and counter the NEW deflection from straight ahead.... BUT, you are already there, leaning into those, using gravity to react them, so they struggle, and the bike STAYS leaned over and STAYS steering the way you want to go.

And without holding the handle-bars, and wiothout ANY thought of gyroscopic progression, or 'counter-steering' or the angle of the handle-bars....

THAT is what makes a motorbike go round a corner..... sort of.

Wheels 'steer' when tilted to the surface..... we have two wheels, BOTH tilted to the road, BOTH wheels steer!

Lean a bike without turning the handlebars from straight ahead, and both wheels will try and transcribe an arc, and the bike will stay pointing straight ahead (ish) but 'Crab' sideways, rather than the front wheel coming around the back.

Oft asked question, "Why do motorbikes have different sized wheels front and back?" Well, many reasons and they dont always have different sized wheels, in fact most modern bikes have the same sized WHEELS, just different sized tyres... and that is another thesis... but bit that touches HERE.....

Smaller wheels, for the same 'tilt' will try and transcribe a smaller 'arc'. So, if you have a BIG back wheel, and a small front wheel. tilt the bike, without turning the steering, and the front wheel will try and turn tighter than the back... and rather than 'crab' the bike will actually 'turn'.

So on most modern 'road' bikes at least, the size differential between front and rear tyres is helping the bike to 'turn'

NOW we get to what the handle-bars 'DO'. Well, they twist the forks and hence the front wheel dont they? But the important thing is WHERE they twist them.

Somehwere under the handlebars, on, err, 99.9% of motorbikes I know of... There are exceptions, and the Bimota Tessi springs to mind, but we wont go there..... UNDER the handlebars, there is a BIG HINGE! Bit of pipe and a couple of plates sit on bearings in a tube in the bikes frame, and forks run down from the plates, to the front wheel.

Important thing to ponder here is that they dont go STRAIGHT down. The forks aren't verticle, they are 'raked' forwards. EZ's 'Cruiser' has the forks raked out quite a lot, my 750 has them raked a bit, Lad up the road's R6 aren't raked very much, chap round the corner with a hard tail 'chopper' has them rakes a HECK of a lot.

So the front wheel isn't just being 'turned' when you twist the bars, its also being TILTED.

When you use POSSITIVE steering through the handlebars, you are not merely changing the angle of the front wheel in relation to the rear, in the verticle, you are also changing the angle of TILT in the horizontal.

And again, the greater 'lean' of the front wheel, sees it steer a tighter arc to the rear, and as MUCH as the actual steered angle, THAT is whats making the bike 'turn'.

Little bit of experimentation you may like to play with, next time you are wheeling the bike around.....

If you TURN the bars, how tightly does it 'turn'? Hold the bike bolt upright and try wheeling it around in a circle, JUST turning the bars. NOW try the same again, but this time, (and its probably best to try wheeling it around in an anti-clockwise direction, so you are on the 'inside' of the bike as you wheel.....) Lean the bike over a little, and see how much TIGTER the circle you go round is..... and I suspect that you will probably transcribe that turn with a HECK of a lot less handle-bar angle!

BIKES STEER BY LEANING.

Its the primary mechanism by which they go round corners.

Turing the front wheel in relation to the back, 'handle-bar' deflection, is a secondary influence. You DONT actually 'start' a turn with bar deflection, you do it with weight shift.

THAT gets the bike LEANING, hence STEERING, and THEN you use the bars to 'adjust' how much the front wheel leans in relation to the back, and to some degree, offer a VERY SMALL steering angle between the two wheels.

When you next go around a roundabout, a little one, GLANCE at the handlebars and see how LITTLE handle-bar deflection you are actually using...

Now, when you park up, See how BIG a circle you go in with that little bar angle, holding the bike upright...

It is an EYE OPENER... and you will realise that without LEANING the bike, you would probably NOT get around many of the tight turns you do, using full steering lock! And you will realise how LITTLE of the steering lock you REALLY do use, when you are actually 'RIDING'.

So, back to Counter-Steering.... yes, you MAY do it sub-conciousely, as you initiate a turn. BUT, every-one that says you ARE doing it, are only partially 'correct'. You may not, and as said, you CAN turn a bike 'Hands-Off', where following the suggestions, it would be imposible.

Turn is initiated by 'ahead-leaning', 99% of the time. And in that reaction, I mentioned, where I grouped together the 'stabilising forces' WILL be an element of 'Gyroscopic Progression' the 'Force' that counter steering is exploiting to make a bike turn, (by LEANING!), where the reaction to the bike, and hence wheels tilting, WILL try and turn the front wheel in relation to the bike, and THAT in turn will carry through and try and make the bikelean, the way you want to go.... in effect, 'automatic' counter-steering, WITHOUT either conciouse or sub-conciouse bar movement.

BUT, this is all rather accademic, in so far as... we are NEVER going to be thinking about all this stuff when we actually RIDE!

BUT, a few salient things that ARE worth thinking about:

BIKES STEER BY LEANING .... Not sure if I have got that point accross.....

For a newbie, often NOT being, I think I shall use the word, 'assertive'..... the very 'physical' and naturally 'intuitive' nature of riding a motorcycle CAN be rather 'alien'.

In a car, it is all a lot more 'logical', things follow a more 'simple' set of cause and effect logic thats easier to interpret. Riding a bike, its VERY MUCH more 'seat of your pants', working by feel.

THIS is why I so often say STOP THINKING - START RIDING

I'm an ex fucking rocket scientist who proffessionally worked on the design & development of missile guidance systems, and the interplay of competing forces in how a motorbike goes round a corner FRY MY BRAIN! Seriousely, missiles are simple in comparison! They have a big firework up thier bum, and little fins. Turn fins left, rocket go left, turn fins right, rocket go left, twist up, rocket go up, twist down rocket go down! Easier than riding a bike! BIG bog -ff thrust force makes everything else pretty irrelevent! As one of my collegues once said, "Pretty simple this Rocket Science malarkie, innit!?"

And you just HAVE to go with it. The interplays and dynamics are just SO complicated, and so frequently following apparently 'perverse' logic, you will NEVER be able to fully grasp or comprehend whats going on.... so dont bother... just SUCK-IT-AND-SEE... get a FEEL for whats going on, and work with it, you dont HAVE to 'understand'...

Do you understand whats going on inside your mobile telephone when you make a call? SAME THING.... I dont care what transistors are doing, or what relays are being tripped in celular transmitter masts... ALL I care is that when I press 'Call' I get connected to Snowie, JOB DONE!

BUT, very common Newbie Trait, is to RESIST leaning a bike..... dont understand it, feels alien, doesn't feel 'safe' so reluctant to do it.... LOGIC says that the handle-bars point where you want to go... so try doing it ALL by steering the bars, NOT leaning the bike.

SO, if you take anything away from this waffle... take away the fact that BIKES STEER BY LEANING! And dont be scared of it.

Bugger counter-steering, ahead leaning, counter leaning, hanging off or any of the many points of 'style' or technique talked about at higher levels. RIGHT HERE, RIGHT NOW, they are NOT important.

STEER BY LEANING......

Dont be afraid to tip the bike over. You HAVE to ip the bike to make it turn, and as long as you are reluctant, and are still quizically looking at the bars and hoping to find the magic in them.... you aren't going to get that inate 'feel' for controlling a bike, and getting it to do what you want it to.

They are built to tilt. This is the defining 'thing' about bikes, so work with it. PLAY with it, tilt the little bugger, and find out what it does!

And while I havcen't mentioned it, THROTTLE.

Braking makes you go straight, Accelerating makes you go ROUND

YOU dont hold the bike up when its tilted over, cornering forces do, and its AMAZING how much cornering force you can generate, GETTING the bike over and MAKING it turn tight, and even MORE how much 'fine control' you can effect over that using the throttle.

USE the THROTTLE, young Skywalker, use throttle you Must!

As you go IN to a corner, get the bike down, then as you come out, USE the throttle to PULL you through and out. THAT generates the steering force that keeps the bike from falling.

And for a NEWBIE, that is ought to be the lesson.


Contentiouse, peoiple say, and even I say, you will probably be using intuative counter-steering to initiate a turn.... BUT, the primary mechanism by which motorbikes steer, IS leaning.

So... Tiddlers are a great way to discover this at an inate level... iof you have to try and go back, analyse, intelectualise, and then re-apply theory....

Think about the Ride Like Your Brakes Broke, game; deny yourself the capoability of that safety net, and use it to develop a more accute use of the throttle, where you will by default be denying yourself the full 'reserve' of available power, in order to keep the bike balenced, and get that 'smooth' style demanding porecice lines, and LEAN to make it go round.

Counter-Steering, Hang-Off, all that kind of elevated technique, HERE AND NOW, is irrelevent. Rospa/Iam courses are irrelevent.

Its not MORE learning thats needed, its EXPERIENCE, but it needs to be USEFUL esperience of how to do stuff BETTER, not simply 'faster' and THIS is the problem trying to back-track learning on a bigger bike, its VERY easy to equate 'faster' with 'better', but on a bike with such excess capability to be going FASTER simply by using MORE of that excess BADLY.

Try the No-Brakes excersise. Find a nice piece of road, you can ride over and over; ride it like a granny, no brakes, and count how many times you use the brakes. Up the pace a bit. You win one point for every 1mph faster you go, but you LOOSE 10 points every time you use a brake.... keep score, see how low you can get it. If you want, do it over a longer route or journey, and see how as your point count goes up, your journey time will go down, as will the bigger numbers you reach on the journey.... you will be getting a higher AVERAGE speed, from lower top speeds, showing you are holding more corner speed.

And it is ONLY by holding corner speed, that you evolve that finesse, and precission on 'line' and atitude....

And the LESS dramatic it feels, the better.... easy to think that wild forces mean great control, becouse if you are wrestlking the bike, you MUST be making it do something.... in fact its the converse, and if you are feeling big forces, you are doing it wrong, and if you are putting in a lot of effort to make the bike go where you want, you are NOT working with the bike in partnership, getting the best from it, you are simply fighting the bike, and at some point that bike GONNA win!

Smooth and swift. Cool Riding. Maximum effect for minimum effort.... like cool-Jazz... just relax, go with the flow, FEEL the harmony, and enjoy.

When you are doing it 'right', it will feel like you aren't 'RIDING' at all... it will all be just a harmoniouse movement, and you'll be looking at the scenary, wondering what to have for tea, or having observed, considered and accounted for the hazard, wondering if the blond bimbo in the Clio in that junction bleaches... and as you rush past at 90 per, be looking for signs of dark roots..... becouse EVERYTHING will be 'in order' in place and in control, and you have SPARE thinking power to contemplate the irrelevant.

And when you STOP... as the adrenaline wears off, THEN you will have flash-backs to stuff that makes you REALISE what you were really doing, and how MUCH really scary stuff you were contending with.... BUT overlying that will be the euphoria that you DID contend with it, and ACTUALLY never seemed like it was ANY fuss.....

THAT is real confidence.... the inner knowledge that you can DEAL with it, and the road can chuck what it LIKES at you, and you will contend with it, and it will NOT cause you to break sweat or break your stride, becouse you are 'in the groove'... COOL RIDING.
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crackfinder
Crazy Courier



Joined: 05 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Re: Finding confidence once youve passed.. Reply with quote

Fowlersrs wrote:
Without pushing it too far..

Anyone got any advice for a recently passed DAS biker, I find it hard deciding on riding lines and what speed to approach and carry into corners..


I guess its paramount to remember that I dont play catch up...

Has anyone got any advice? Laughing


Look on youtube for instructional videos on the "vanishing point" or "limit point"
here's one to be going on with..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7aa58BJQDw

https://www.youtube.com/user/advancedbiker this chap posts excellent clips, subscribe to him and you will learn lots

here's one of his titled "rider lacks confidence on bends"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96MM_4Jxkjg


watch and learn, then go out and practice.

and yes, you are correct thinking you shouldn't try to keep up with faster riders....ride to you own limits Thumbs Up Mr. Green
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Teflon-Mike
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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Re: Finding confidence once youve passed.. Reply with quote

crackfinder wrote:
Look on youtube for instructional videos on the "vanishing point" or "limit point"


"Riding to the Event Horizon"

One I am less discinclined with than counter-leaning & hanging off...basically, look where you want to be, bike goes there, look as FAR as you can see..... distance you can see, and whether that distance is shrinking or growing tells you how fast you ought to be going.

Has been useful with Snowie, trying to get her past 'fixation' problems, and fixating on the '"Vanishing Point" even after its stopped 'vanishing'!

Its a useful tool, and once you have got the idea of holding corner speed, and riding smooth and cool, its a technique you can start to incorporate and build on, and expand on, with 'riding for sight', picking your lines as much for the SIGHT line they give you, so that you can expand that event horizon, and take in more of what's going on ahead of you, as simply to hold corner speed....

Its like learning to choreography a dance routine, rather than learning the fixed steps of a routine.....

But I think its a few steps of elevation ebyond where we are now, though maybe worth being aware of.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Efes123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Re: RIDE LIKE YOUR BRAKES BE BROKE! Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
3,825 words of wisdom


I've read many of your posts, but wow, that must be a record
Thumbs Up
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Re: RIDE LIKE YOUR BRAKES BE BROKE! Reply with quote

Efes123 wrote:
I've read many of your posts, but wow, that must be a record
Thumbs Up

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/c/c8/Vynil_record.jpg/325px-Vynil_record.jpg
Nope, THAT is a 'Record'! Laughing Dont see many about these days!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that Fowlersrs should be given some credit for admitting to having a problem with his 750. There is a lot of ego around biking and I wonder how many recently qualified riders have the same experience but just keep quiet about it not wanting to appear soft.

I for one am going to just settle on 33hp bikes after just doing the standard test. I recently had a good think about my choices for biking in the future and had to admit to myself my desire for a KTM 690 owes as much to posing on it as to riding on it. The practicality of my WR125X for work needs (i work for a charity with clients all over town) would not really be bested by any of the bigger bikes available. When I pass the test a sportier bike for weekend rides is literally only going to get ridden at the weekend so it makes sense to have a less challenging bike like a Ninja 250 for a couple of years of weekends.

One other thing, I does`nt really help to label 125s as "tiddlers" or describe bigger bikes as "proper" bikes. I have a Yamaha WR125X and as far as I can tell its a proper bike and certainly in terms of size its close to a lot of more powerful bikes. Would anyone say an old bike form the 50`s with a much bigger engine capacity but hardly capable of half the HP of a modern 125, was not a "proper" bike?

Oh and lastly. Its worth remembering what Chuck Yeager (ace fighter pilot and first man to break the sound barrier) said, " I would rather fly against a less experienced pilot in a higher performing fighter plane than a more experienced pilot in an inferior plane to my own". I think the same applies to bikes.
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