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250 commuters??

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carb0n
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: 250 commuters?? Reply with quote

are they any decent ones? not really sure what's out there.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

New or used? and for what budget? Where are you riding it? in town or dual tracks/motorways etc.

I see you have had a YBR125, well just for a start there is the YBR250 with 21bhp, but what you buy depends on what you want it for and how many miles you ride, how much mpg your after etc.

for long trips on fast roads and for good mpg you need a faired bike. If it's an urban used bike then something narrow and light with lots of steering lock might be best?
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Nexus Icon
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

New, old, nearly new?
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JoeDougieDoug...
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honda CB250 - King of the 250 Commuters.

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colin1
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know you don't want a scooter but they are good for commuting. I had a yp 250 but the gilera runner 180 two stroke was a lot more fun. Faster, better handling. The four stroke 200 runner may be more economical while still having enough power to be fun. I had a ttr 250 dirt bike which was quite good for commuting but would have been better if I had got round to fitting the super moto wheels.
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
New or used? and for what budget? Where are you riding it? in town or dual tracks/motorways etc.

I see you have had a YBR125, well just for a start there is the YBR250 with 21bhp, but what you buy depends on what you want it for and how many miles you ride, how much mpg your after etc.

for long trips on fast roads and for good mpg you need a faired bike. If it's an urban used bike then something narrow and light with lots of steering lock might be best?


used preferably. but not old style. kind of a newish model thats not too pricey. mostly used on A roads to work, and used for a ride round at weekends, ( so has "that" look of a decent looking bike)
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:
I know you don't want a scooter but they are good for commuting. I had a yp 250 but the gilera runner 180 two stroke was a lot more fun. Faster, better handling. The four stroke 200 runner may be more economical while still having enough power to be fun. I had a ttr 250 dirt bike which was quite good for commuting but would have been better if I had got round to fitting the super moto wheels.


i refuse to have a scooter. Smile

i would like a bike that looks the part, thats comfortable to ride as i have a fucked wrist Smile
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe a secondhand CBR250? the new style one not the superior rev to moon IL4 CBR250.

Kawasaki Ninja 250R?

Is MPG important? Do you want an easy relaxing ride to work, or something fun and engaging that demands more rider involvement, or do you want a quiet, efficiant bike with decent service intervals, and cheap running costs in terms of tyres, insurance, parts and service costs etc?

I'm dying to say buy a Yamaha TDR250 if your commute was back roads, towns, and the odd bit of ring road/ A-road etc. I've got a bit of a thing for wanting one of these now, but i would not suggest it as possibly your best option for what your looking for in a bike. How much fucking fun would one be though!!! Wink
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Maybe a secondhand CBR250? the new style one not the superior rev to moon IL4 CBR250.

Kawasaki Ninja 250R?

Is MPG important? Do you want an easy relaxing ride to work, or something fun and engaging that demands more rider involvement, or do you want a quiet, efficiant bike with decent service intervals, and cheap running costs in terms of tyres, insurance, parts and service costs etc?

I'm dying to say buy a Yamaha TDR250 if your commute was back roads, towns, and the odd bit of ring road/ A-road etc. I've got a bit of a thing for wanting one of these now, but i would not suggest it as possibly your best option for what your looking for in a bike. How much fucking fun would one be though!!! Wink


the cbr and ninja is the sort of bike i want for looks yes Smile it just depends how low they are, cause im 6.3 and a very bad wrist, i cant have pressure on it. MPG isnt that important, and i want something that moves and sounds decent. yes i know its only a 250 before you say it but its all i can ride at the moment Very Happy
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Ninja is pretty small, you may be cramped on it.

On which side do you have Tossers Sprain? If it's right, have you tried a "cramp buster"? I love mine.

What was wrong with your Hyosung, and have you completely discounted the GT250(R)?

And finally, if you don't care about MPG, why limit your search to the small pool of 250s? Go to a 500 (restricted, I assume) and you'll get way more choice, likely get a cheaper bike, and running costs will only be marginally more while ridden at the same speed. Insurance may even be less, my GPZ was a £0 cost swap for a 125.
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G
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why choose 250cc?

Massive range of bikes that are 250cc; from ones that will beat a superbike in an open class race to ones that will have trouble removing the skin from cold custard.

Might as well say "I want a bike with a 32cm mid fairing panel".
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Nexus Icon
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyosung GT250-R is supposed to be a good bike and should be better priced than an equivalent age/mileage Ninja.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nexus Icon wrote:
Hyosung GT250-R is supposed to be a good bike and should be better priced than an equivalent age/mileage Ninja.

Psst, check the OP's .sig, he knows about Hyosungs. I'm wondering what was wrong with his GT125R, which is the same bike with half the engine.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Hyosung GT 250r and so far I have to say it aint half bad Smile
fuel comsumpsion does`nt seem to bad,
not the fastest bike in the world but not as slow as many would have you believe,
A good size for a 250 (I`m big),
No handling issues,
The seat could do with a bit more padding, but then most of my trips on mine are long distance,

Dont compare a new 250 four-stroke with a 70`s - 80`s - 90`s stroker as there is no comparison.
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Nick_Giles
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
Why choose 250cc?

Massive range of bikes that are 250cc; from ones that will beat a superbike in an open class race to ones that will have trouble removing the skin from cold custard.

.




Good point.!

How about a fared GS500 with a restrictor kit fitted.?

Nice and light, easy to ride, simple but proven technology and a bit more 'presence' on the road. Ain't that bad looking for not a lot of coins either.

You would get far more 'Bang for your buck' with a restricted 500 - 600 as 250's from what I gather command a higher price comparitavly.

Just my 2p worth, Nick.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 09 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ding!

carb0n wrote:
used preferably. but not old style. kind of a newish model thats not too pricey. mostly used on A roads to work, and used for a ride round at weekends, ( so has "that" look of a decent looking bike)

=

https://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/200810/2008-suzuki-gs500f-3_460x0w.jpg

That's not going to cost much more than a 250 to run, but will have substantially more usable power when you want to play.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Ding!

carb0n wrote:
used preferably. but not old style. kind of a newish model thats not too pricey. mostly used on A roads to work, and used for a ride round at weekends, ( so has "that" look of a decent looking bike)

=

https://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/200810/2008-suzuki-gs500f-3_460x0w.jpg

That's not going to cost much more than a 250 to run, but will have substantially more usable power when you want to play.


THE gs does look pretty good, im just a bit wary about restricting a 500/600 down to 250. some people have told me it bumps up the insurance cause its classed as a "mod"


and regarding the issues with the failsungbagofwank, is that sometimes out on a ride, it just wont start, blah blah blah, sometimes pulling away it loses 95% power.
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frostage
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PostPosted: 08:40 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Restriction kits do not affect the price of insurance, well not with most companies anyway.

I got the GT250R when I passed my test, and to be honest it was great, felt quick compared to my 50, same frame as the 650 version so nice and roomy/comfortable. Insurance was very cheap on it as well. Also never had a problem with it, despite what everyone who's never owned a hyosung say about them I can't fault that bike at all. Also knew a few people who owned ninja 250's, slightly quicker but not as comfortable.

After that I moved on to an '88 Honda VFR400, great bike, really fun to ride, but I was hasty buying it as it turned out to have more problems than the seller let on. So if you go for one of the older 400's, just make sure you check the bike over thoroughly as some of them have had the shit kicked out of them. Insurance here was almost £800, twice what it was for the GT250.

Then I discovered that I could get a restricted ZX-6R insured for £50 less than the 400 was costing me! This in my opinion is a good move as you get the experience of riding a bigger, heavier bike, but don't have the power to throw yourself through a motorway sign at 1000mph. Also it means that as soon as your restriction is up you can just remove the restrictors and be on a 600 just like that, with no hassle of selling your smaller bike and buying a new one, and bearing in mind your smaller bike will have had another 2 years of depreciation, it will probably be cheaper that way.

I had my ZXR written off by an old woman pulling out on me and so moved on to a gixxer 750 anyway, but I think I would have kept the ZXR if that hadnt happened and just taken the kit out

Hope this is helpful!
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 08:45 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well actually restricting it to 250cc would be very costly and pretty stupid.

Do you actually live in the UK?

If so, are you sure you don't mean "restricting to 33hp"?
A lot of 250cc and less bikes need to be restricted for the 33hp laws too. While a lot over 250cc don't.

Most insurers won't add a premium for the restriction.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, restriction means slapping a couple of washers in the inlets (get 38 - 42mm washers, whatever fits, drill 20mm holes in 'em, call it a day or get it dyno'd),

Any insurer who tries to increase the premium because the bike is making less power is an effing retard - go with a proper bike insurer instead.

Or consider just not disclosing it. Is it a material fact? Personally, I think not - if anything, it's reducing their risk.

I once thought as you, but having ridden (essentially) a 25kW "250" for a year then stepping up to a 500, I'd suggest going straight for a (restricted) 500 just because they're easier to ride. They really are more stable, we're not just saying it for a wind up. Very Happy

Thinking about it, your Hyosung uses a copy of the GS500 frame, so you're already used to the size. Going to any 250 (other than the GT250(R)) would be a step back down.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Yup, restriction means slapping a couple of washers in the inlets (get 38 - 42mm washers, whatever fits, drill 20mm holes in 'em, call it a day or get it dyno'd),

Any insurer who tries to increase the premium because the bike is making less power is an effing retard - go with a proper bike insurer instead.

Or consider just not disclosing it. Is it a material fact? Personally, I think not - if anything, it's reducing their risk.

I once thought as you, but having ridden (essentially) a 25kW "250" for a year then stepping up to a 500, I'd suggest going straight for a (restricted) 500 just because they're easier to ride. They really are more stable, we're not just saying it for a wind up. Very Happy

Thinking about it, your Hyosung uses a copy of the GS500 frame, so you're already used to the size. Going to any 250 (other than the GT250(R)) would be a step back down.


ill possibly end up with a 500/600, but ill have to pay someone to restrict it as i know fuck all Very Happy and dont fancy killing the bike Wink
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

carb0n wrote:
ill possibly end up with a 500/600, but ill have to pay someone to restrict it as i know fuck all Very Happy and dont fancy killing the bike Wink


There's a few ways, but all you're doing is limiting the amount of air and fuel that the cylinders can pull in.

That can be done by putting washers into the inlets (after the carbs), or by fettling up a throttle stop that does what it says - just stops the throttle opening fully.

You can pay upwards of £200 for an "FI International" kit to be fitted to your bike and a shiny and utterly worthless certificate to be issued if you're a mug, or you can buy some pre-made washers off of the intartubes for tens of pounds, or you can just make your own up.

What I'd suggest as a compromise is finding your local bike tuning place with a dyno and asking them for advice. They should be able to slap something in and give you a dyno printout which proves exactly as much as the FI certificate does, i.e. nothing except that someone probably thinks that your bike probably produced no more than a probable 25kW at some point in the past.

Of course, you could have ripped the restrictors out the second that dyno run was completed, it's all a bit silly. Very Happy
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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carb0n
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you think its possible for someone to fit a restriction kit, who has never touched any type of mechanics before? im just worried i will break the bike in some way :'(
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

carb0n wrote:
do you think its possible for someone to fit a restriction kit, who has never touched any type of mechanics before? im just worried i will break the bike in some way :'(

Possible, yes.

Enjoyable, probably not. You'd be looking at taking off the tank, airbox and carbs (or carbs and rubbers) which depending how you look at is "Eh, just some lefty-loosey then righty-tighty" or "ZOMFG voodoo witchcraft!"

That's unless you can find (or make) a throttle stop solution instead, which would be even simpler: just bolting something on somewhere to stop the throttle grip or cable or lever completing its full travel. That'd be entirely down to the bike though.

Really, give your local tuning/dyno place a call, it won't be the first time they've been asked.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 12:38 - 10 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
...restriction means slapping a couple of washers in the inlets (get 38 - 42mm washers, whatever fits, drill 20mm holes in 'em, call it a day or get it dyno'd),...

That's ok for carb bikes but a tad tricky for injection models.

Newer bikes will probably be fuel injection to meet emission regulations. Injection bikes can do the restriction via the throttle although can also be an ECU change.
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