I gone did a boo boo

Bred2shred · Scooby Slapper Joined: 14 Apr 2012 Karma :

I broke the end off the exhaust stud while removing the exhaust for a tart up on my XR125.

My first instinct is to heat up the block a bit and then try to undo the stud wth some mole grips.

Any other techniques without having to buy any specialist tools?

Evil or Very Mad

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Raffles · World Chat Champion Joined: 14 Apr 2009 Karma :

Heat & Molegrips is probably a good option at this stage.
If, however, you're not in a big rush to complete the job then you should also consider using a dismantling fluid such as PlusGas over a period of a couple of days.
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..... · Quote Me Happy Joined: 15 Jan 2005 Karma :

Or cut a slot and use a screwdriver but a soaking in Plusgas is definitely a good idea.

fraggie · Two Stroke Sniffer Joined: 15 Apr 2012 Karma :

get a bigger nut and weld it on good.

The heat should break loose the bond between the bolt and the cilinder (after cool down)
then use a wrench to back it out. (worst case it'll break flush with the cilinder so you can drill and tap)

Pete. · Super Spammer Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :

Vincent · Banned Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :

Can you modify the flange, (make it as bit thinner where it fastens to this stud), and put a bit more thread on what's left of the stud?
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Sako · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Feb 2012 Karma :

get it to a garage, they have access to acetylene torches etc to get a bit of heat onto it.

Ichy · World Chat Champion Joined: 15 Jul 2005 Karma :

Bred2shred · Scooby Slapper Joined: 14 Apr 2012 Karma :

Cheers for all the ideas folks.

I've ordered up some plusgas and and I'll apply it every night this week and then try some heat and big mole grips at the weekend.

I don't think I want to start butchering the manifold flange and at present I don't have access to a welding plant but this may have to come into play if the above fails.

Cheers again guys, I'll let you know how I get on.
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chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

If you can grind a flat onto 2 sides so the grips grip better.
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bikenut · World Chat Champion Joined: 21 Nov 2011 Karma :

:karma: hi dude,

sheared off cause its corroded into head. :D

weld stud to remains and file to fit over clamp plate.

Matt578 · Nova Slayer Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Karma :

Stud extractor?

Some will grab some pretty short studs Wink

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Raffles · World Chat Champion Joined: 14 Apr 2009 Karma :

doggone · World Chat Champion Joined: 20 May 2004 Karma :

MaybeGuy · Super Spammer Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Karma :

give it a few whacks from various directions to shock it free. It's saved me a couple of times. Or get a stud extractor socket set. you've got loads of meat for it to grip on.
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Bred2shred · Scooby Slapper Joined: 14 Apr 2012 Karma :

Cheers guys, loads of good tips there.

I do own a proxxon dremel type tool so will be able to put some edges on the stud before attempted removal. So along with a few wacks from a hammer, a soaking with plusgas and some heat from a butane torch it should practically fall out. Cool

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0l0dom0l0 · World Chat Champion Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Karma :

While you still have some stud left, I'd run a tap over whats left to make a longer thread and get a proper stud extractor on it.

If you heat it up nicely after you've tapped it and before you stick the stud extractor on it should come out.

While I appreciate you don't want to buy and specialist tools, it'll be cheaper to buy a stud extractor and a tap than pay someone to drill it out (which you'll have to do if it doesn't work). Exhaust studs you do once and do them properly. Don't get any second chances.
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Bred2shred · Scooby Slapper Joined: 14 Apr 2012 Karma :

Hey guys.

Got the thing soaking in plusgas and my dad dropped off his blow torch tonight.

What 0l0dom0l0 said has been playing on my mind and i've always been an advocate doing a job right the first time. So after watching THIS and seeing the success using this type of stud extractor i'm going to invest in one, i'll bet this is not the only time i'll need to use it.

I'll post up how i get on.
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Fairies attack · Banned Joined: 21 May 2011 Karma :

Heat round the stud and not the stud.

The idea is to make the casing expand and not the bit you are trying to remove.

Get a pair of Molegrips, when as you are heating and slowly wiggle them forward and back there will become a point where the stud just cracks and comes out easy as pie..

Don't put to much pressure on or it will break further down and you will be in a whole world of shit.
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0l0dom0l0 · World Chat Champion Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Karma :

BanditsHigh · Worse than a woman Joined: 21 Mar 2005 Karma :

Like everything else in life, what works for one person will not work always work for you.

The stud in the video link you gave above showed a stud which was not seriously corroded into the head ... the ease with which the stud was undone shows that ... that and the fact he used a chuck which is the most likely to slip with a corroded in stud!!

Heat, penetrating oil and time are your friends.

Welding a nut on causes thermal shock which tends to break the cold weld (corrosion between the steel and ally), meaning you should then be able to undo it with a ratchet ... but again this might not work in your case.

Stud extractors (of the cam wheel/ratchet type not eazi-outs) are good in that the more power you put into trying to undo the stud the harder it will grip ... once again though it might not work for you.

At the end of the day, no matter what technique you use, if the stud doesn't come out then you will need to drill and tap.

Good luck Thumbs Up

All the best ... Barry

Johnser · Renault 5 Driver Joined: 19 May 2011 Karma :

first off, dont get too concerned with trying to expand the block more than the stud. you'll be unlikly to be able to as its a massive heat sink and the stud is more or less well insulated.

Dont worry though, the point of heating is not to expand the hole so that the bolt slips out loose, its to crack the corrosion between bolt and hole. this is why welding onto the bolt works so well.... and it does work well.

bearing in mind you dont want to buy anything specialist (like a welder Very Happy

) first off I'd wind a nut onto the remaining threads until its quite tight. then soak for however long you can afford in the plus gas when it arrives, then heat the stud until its just glowing, then quench the stud with plus gas.

It is certainly worth giving the stud a few whacks at this point too.

now the nut you jammed on the remaining threads might just be stuck enough to let you wind the stud out using it. clamp it really tight using mole grips and it'll grip even harder.

Dont be tempted to just wind it straight out as soon as it starts to move - theres a good chance it'll bind again and shear as the heating will have softened it a bit too. instead, work it out; back and forth using the plus gas to help ease it.

good luck!