Could someone do my carbs for me?

[J.M.]

I'm looking for someone who could strip and clean and reassemble my carbs for me for a reasonable price. I'll cover postage both ways of course.

They don't look like they've ever been taken apart before and the screws are looking to be really stubborn. The breakdown guy that came out today couldn't get one of the screws out for the plastic part on the side when he tried.

Really needs someone who knows what they're doing and has all the right tools. I don't know of any backstreet garages around where I live and I thought I would check if anyone on here could do it before I started searching for them. Dealers would charge a huge price for it.

(click images to enlarge)

In this image, the plastic thing to the right of the centre of the photo is what we tried to remove. The screw didn't want to move and we didn't wish to risk rounding off the head.
https://i.imgur.com/1IzRQs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lHDMps.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SGYxMs.jpg

The carb on the left is the one that's playing up. I think the breakdown guy said it was sticking or something.
https://i.imgur.com/E6SYvs.jpg


Is there anyone who thinks they could do it for me for a good price or should I start looking around for some backstreet garages?
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[MaybeGuy]

I could do it no problems. Why do you think they're gummed up? If it's running a bit shite, my first port of call would be the throttle position sensor, as it looks like someone's fiddled with the position.

Edit: Just re-read. Ask the recovery guy why on earth he was even touching that?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[andym]

Or if matt can't I'll do it... got loads of spare time, and could use the experience tbh.

I should point out I've only done 2 50cc scooters and the GPz 750 so far though, don't know if that would count as enough experience (but I've found basically they are all the same more or less).

I'll even start a bidding war here, you get them packaged up securely with return packaging included and I'll do it free of charge

[J.M.]

Initially the bike was pissing fuel out of the airbox. Somehow that filled up with fuel? Lost about a litre of fuel through it.

The breakdown guy managed to start the bike in the end commenting something about that he thought it could be a stuck float or something. He ran it for a bit then stopped the engine. He felt both sides and said that that the left side was definitely colder than the right side.

There was also something else about where fuel was in the carbs when we had taken them out. It kept dripping out of the left carb (I think).

Which is the throttle position sensor and how do I check? When removing the carbs there were two wire cables, a "push and pull" system or something.

I never noticed any problems before. Though I was struggling to hit a ton on the motorway whereas I managed to hit 110 before once. That couldn't relate to carbs could it?

I've not done any motorway miles since then and general running around felt fine. Was always a bit of a pain to start though.

I'm mainly guessing here as I don't know a thing about any of this. I don't remember all of the details either.
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[MarJay]

you need Japanese screwdrivers to do it without rounding the heads on those Japanese carbs. Can't remember what they are called now... JIS I think.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[MaybeGuy]

[G]

It's the throttle position sensor you've been failing to take off.

You shouldn't need to take the throttle position off to check the float etc. Mole grips on the outside of the machine screw should get it off.

You can see the floats here, in this image which is upside down:
https://ffracing.net/gallery/albums/Faded/floatlevel1.jpg
As the fuel fills the bottom of the carb, it pushes the floats up, which closes the 'tap'. It's like a ball cock in a toilet cistern.

If these get gummed up or aren't set correctly (by bending the tab), they can leave the tap fully open, leaving fuel draining through.

Also check that the slide (bit of black plastic you can see inside the main body on your pics) moves up and down freely.

[andym]

I know a certain little twat that had just had his carbs cleaned, and for some reason that was pissin' petrol through the air filter, I was about to take the carb off and strip it down again but decided before that to give the top a couple of taps with the handle of a screwdriver... the petrol stopped almost instantly, and there was never a problem with it again.

Only thing I can think of that happened, because they had been stripped down and cleaned then rebuilt without a splash of petrol here and there that the tap got dry and stuck open (if that's possible, I was told some fuel pumps on cars use the petrol to lubricate them, and running the petrol right down can cause problems... not sure if it's true though)

[J.M.]

He only tried to remove the TPS because we couldn't unclip the wires. Managed to get those off in the end though.

I had no idea though, hence not trying to stop him. Will remember not to touch the TPS in the future. It's not been moved at all by us though, the screw didn't budge even a little.

Cheers for the explanation G

I'll go check the slide now, presuming I'm understanding correctly!

And yes, as MarJay says, they're Japanese carbs. Didn't think to mention that!

Funny you should mention that actually andym, I ran out of fuel again the other day. I went out for a ride a few days after that though and clocked up another 40 miles without problems. Not been started since then (has been attempted to be started) until today where it did this.
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[J.M.]

[jjdugen]

It would help if we knew where you were...
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The CBR900RR has been sold. Aprilia Falco worms its way into my heart.
Try Soi 23 on Amazon for a good read.... Self promotion? Moi?

[G]

While the slide not moving can cause a cylinder to not run well at all, it'd make flooding less not more likely.

Get the bowl off and have a look at the float.

Make sure you're using the correct screw driver (can't see them, but generally ph2) and push in firmly while unscrewing to make sure you don't mash them.
Consider a bit of wd40 and tapping them with a hammer first. Slightly doing up before undoing can also help free them if they're stuck.

[J.M.]

[J.M.]

[Boydy]

I was looking at this and thinking i'd love to help but can't be bothered with all the packaging and messing about, but...

I'm in Earl Shilton!! wow the internet really is a small place

I've had the carbs apart on my nsr125 and i understand how they all work, but i'm nothing like an expert.

If you want me to come round for a bit of moral support while we close our eyes and bash it with some spanners i'm up for it.
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NSR 125

[EazyDuz]

When i had an off on my gz125, the carb kept leaking out the bottom, turned out to be a stuck float. Thats all the info i can give you as ive never done anything else with carbs.
Oh and use penetrating oil on those TPS screws if you intend to remove it, i use PlusGas, it is amazing stuff.
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To shreds you say? Tss tss tss

[Ghost]

Can't add anything that hasn't already been said about the carbs really, except to say it's definitely worth going to screwfix and getting a replacement set of screws for the float chamber covers as you'll muller those getting them off. On mine they were an M4/M5 thread I believe, so I got some stainless steel hex head ones which took a 3mm allen key, much easier for future maintenance and only cost about 40p.

[MaybeGuy]

[TGB]

if you want them done i can do it for around 150£ inc VAT and three month warrenty. that will be strip clean and replace any damaged parts if any. the only thing i cant do is sync them but i can gauge set them so only minor balancing will be needed. if you are local to broadstairs in kent i can collect and return. 01843 866609

[G]

[MarJay]

[map]

[Blau Zedong]

[MaybeGuy]

[Raffles]

If you choose to whack the screws then do so very gently as the areas that you will be striking are quite fragile and very easy to break. As G said you should be able to grip the outside of the fasteners with a small set of mole grips or maybe a set of water pump pliers.
As far as mixing stainless steel fasteners with aluminium parts is concerned, it's something that I have often done and not experienced any ill effects.* I find that a liberal coating of Copaslip seems to minimise any Galvanic reaction.

*Skulks off to hide from the barage of abuse expected from the metalurgists amongst us
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A good loser will always be a loser.