HALP!

[GrumpyGuts]

PLEASE!!

Lost my job (Well i believe I have) because it's the fourth time I've had to cancel - my battery keeps going flat.

I've changed the battery which held the charge a lot longer, but after travelling to work today in the rain, it konked out again as all the power was drained from the battery.

I've ordered a new stator plate, but can anybody give any suggestions why the battery keeps getting drained?
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My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[CaNsA]

Ill put money on it being the reg/rec that has gone tits up.

[GrumpyGuts]

I shall order that, too. The mechanic says it could be that, but the horse of a cunt twat who sold me this duff bike said the magneto needs changing (I.e. stator plate) so I need to rule out all potential problems.
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My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[kernow24]

[GrumpyGuts]

The mechanic tested the voltage and it read around 11 volts, WAY too low.
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My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[Nick 50]

I would definitely look at the reg/rec. Sounds identical to what happened on my old GZ125. If it is that, you'll probably need a new battery.
When mine went it killed a 2 month old Motobatt battery.
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Current Bikes: ZX7r 97 (Black Beauty), VFR400 NC24 (The banana)
Previous Bikes: Aprilia Tuono 03 (The Beast), CBR600f (97)
First bike: A GZ125 Lemon.......

[GrumpyGuts]

Completely agree. The very battery that was killed had saved me because putting that back in got me home.

I might keep that old battery in until my reg/rect gets here, then put the new battery back in before it destroys the cells
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My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[andym]

surely if the battery is getting drained too quickly then it's not getting enough power to it, which if it is the reg/rec then I can't see how it would damage the battery if it's not over charging.

Also since you are going to be replacing the stator plate, can't you check to see what condition the internals there are? just in case it's just a loose wire or something

[GrumpyGuts]

I can't check it because I don't have the tools to remove the magneto cover or the flywheel. The previous owner, who is a cunt, said that the magneto (or quite simply the stator plate) needs changing, so I'm following the cunt's advice but also getting a new regulator/rectifier unit.

The RR unit must be giving my battery a low voltage which is killing the cells. The cells are almost kaput so the battery won't hold it's charge, which explains why I keep fucking breaking down!
____________________
My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[GrumpyGuts]

Right, I've changed the Rec/reg unit, still going flat. Any suggestions?
____________________
My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[Robby]

Fault finding time with a multimeter.

A brief description of how the charging system works.

The alternator (may also be erroneously described as a magneto or generator) consists of a stator plate and strong magnets. The magnets spin around the stator plate, and this create AC electricity. Output is dependant on how fast the engine is turning, so it puts out between 20-60V AC. Amps aren't too important in this explanation.

The charge travels the wires (usually 3 yellow) from the alternator to the reg/rec. This RECtifies the AC output to DC, and REGulates it to 12V. A reg/rec is not 100% efficient, so it gets hot. If it gets too hot, either due to low quality components (common), poor heatsinking or airflow (common) or a corroded connector causing higher resistance (also quite common).

The 12V DC charge then goes off into the rest of the loom to power the electrical components, and charge the battery. The battery is there to provide electrical power, and also to act as a large buffer and absorb spikes - this is why you shouldn't run without a battery.

If you have ruled out the battery and reg/rec, then your problem is either with the alternator or a poor connection somewhere. Fault finding steps:

1. With the engine running at about 4000 rpm, put a multimeter set to DC volts across the battery terminals. You should be looking at around 13 volts. If you see more like 11.5 or below, the battery isn't charging. If you see more than 16 volts, you have a duff reg/rec. Important test in case new reg/rec is no good.

2. Check all of the multiplug connectors between the battery and alternator, looking for corrosion. Also check the frame earths - where the wiring loom connects to the frame with an eyelet terminal. Any corrosion here will be a problem.

3. If you find any corrosion, clean it up and repeat step 1.

4. No corrosion, no power, time to look at the alternator. It is made up of three parts, hence the 3 wires coming off it. In theory, two parts of it could fail and it would still create some current. With everything connected up, set your alternator to AC volts. Put the positive terminal in the back of the connector with the alternator output (yellow) wires, and the negative onto the frame of the bike. Do this for each individual wire. If you get a reading of 0, your alternator isn't making any charge. If you get a reading of 10+ volts from any of the wires, that part of the alternator is working. Do this test with the engine running.

5. Reading 0 on all or some parts, you have a stator plate problem. The stator plate is made of copper coils covered in epoxy resin. Over time this epoxy will go brittle and flake off (30+ years usually), and then the copper wiring will become contaminated, heat up too much, and fail. Alternatively, the wiring could be of low quality of have a manafacturing or design flaw which allows it to get too hot and fail. The solution is replacement.

6. In some rare cases the magnets detach themselves from the flywheel and destroy the alternator, along with making lots of noise. This should only be a concern if you have a GPZ500.

[GrumpyGuts]

This is my problem

https://i45.tinypic.com/2vtxymp.jpg
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My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[mysterious_rider]

[GrumpyGuts]

Rolling eyes? The cunt lied to me about a lot of things so I was not inclined to believe him.

As per the picture, he was right. Look at the state of it
____________________
My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[Nick 50]

[mysterious_rider]

https://cdn.head-fi.org/8/88/880526bc_mother_of_god.jpeg

[GrumpyGuts]