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Which immobiliser

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mgh0
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Joined: 19 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Which immobiliser Reply with quote

So, my XJ 600 got hotwired and pinched.

I want to prevent this in future and along with the increased physical security, chains and whatnot, I like the idea of being able to immobilise/alarm the bike should thieving shits pay another visit.

Ideally less than £50-£100 what would be best for the job?
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salty21
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

personally i would avoid an immobiliser like the plague, there nothing but trouble and have the potential to leave you stranded when they fail (and they do).

Just beef up on physical security and maybe buy one of those cheap alarms off ebay and just connect it to the battery and nothing else. That way you still get the movement sensors so the alarm will go off if anyone touches it but it wont cause you problems later on.
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AlexW
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
personally i would avoid an immobiliser like the plague, there nothing but trouble and have the potential to leave you stranded when they fail (and they do).


Been fitting alarms and imoblisers for, well, years.

Most good quality kits these days don't go wrong.

Alarm and imobilisers are a good investment, can lower your insurance slighty, and are hard to remove if fitted correctly.

Unfortantly though, that would be double your price range, although Im sure you could pickup the alarm etc itself cheap enough, however its the fitting that can cost the most for a proper job.

On the other hand, you couuld fit a small hidden switch somewhere, just to kill a live/starter feed so the bike can't be started without flicking the switch.

Where abouts are you?
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U_W v2.0
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Joined: 07 May 2012
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

biketrak imo

excellent recovery rate, doesnt STOP the theft but will almost garantee a recovery/theft alert
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go for a discreet immobiliser switch somewhere, and a big chain. Cheap immobilisers tend to be crap, so a hidden switch is easier and just as effective - hotwiring chavs aren't going to spend the time looking for it.

If you wire in line with the battery negative, use a beefy switch - there's a lot of current going through there. You could use lighter switches if splicing into the feed to the coils.

Whatever you do, make sure it's a proper soldered connection and a high quality switch. You don't want it to fail while you're riding and suddenly cut the power.
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salty21
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlexW wrote:
salty21 wrote:
personally i would avoid an immobiliser like the plague, there nothing but trouble and have the potential to leave you stranded when they fail (and they do).


Been fitting alarms and imoblisers for, well, years.

Most good quality kits these days don't go wrong.

Alarm and imobilisers are a good investment, can lower your insurance slighty, and are hard to remove if fitted correctly.

Unfortantly though, that would be double your price range, although Im sure you could pickup the alarm etc itself cheap enough, however its the fitting that can cost the most for a proper job.

On the other hand, you couuld fit a small hidden switch somewhere, just to kill a live/starter feed so the bike can't be started without flicking the switch.

Where abouts are you?


in all the bikes i have owned 2 of them came with datatool system 3 alarms which were both profesionally fitted and came with certificates of installation by qualified fitters. One of them used immobilise the engine whenever i hit 10,000rpm, which was annoying as most of the power was above that. Having the engine suddenly cut out at those revs when flat out in first was not something i really enjoyed so ended up ripping it out and patching the loom up, never had a problem after that.

The second datatool stopped recognising the fobs every now and then so ripped that one out aswell.

I also had a meta alarm on my ninja, the bike had less than 4000 miles on it and the alarm was fitted from new, that also had issues with the fobs but i sold that bike soon after the problem started.

These problems could have probably been sorted if i was willing to shell out a load of money to a pro fitter, but i personally dont see the point in them on bikes. If someone wants to take it i dont think an immobiliser is going to put them off, Its far better to just have a motion sensetive alarm wired direct to the battery. A thief is far more likely to leave it alone if the siren starts up.
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94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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mgh0
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Joined: 19 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlexW wrote:
salty21 wrote:
personally i would avoid an immobiliser like the plague, there nothing but trouble and have the potential to leave you stranded when they fail (and they do).


Been fitting alarms and imoblisers for, well, years.

Most good quality kits these days don't go wrong.

Alarm and imobilisers are a good investment, can lower your insurance slighty, and are hard to remove if fitted correctly.

Unfortantly though, that would be double your price range, although Im sure you could pickup the alarm etc itself cheap enough, however its the fitting that can cost the most for a proper job.

On the other hand, you couuld fit a small hidden switch somewhere, just to kill a live/starter feed so the bike can't be started without flicking the switch.

Where abouts are you?


Based just outside birmingham.

An alarm and switch be the way to go, bike is worth less than £800 afterall!
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlexW wrote:
On the other hand, you couuld fit a small hidden switch somewhere, just to kill a live/starter feed so the bike can't be started without flicking the switch.


I like this idea!

It could go under the seat or something so that it's essentially locked too. I might just do this to the GS whilst it's in bits!
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mgh0
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
AlexW wrote:
On the other hand, you couuld fit a small hidden switch somewhere, just to kill a live/starter feed so the bike can't be started without flicking the switch.


I like this idea!

It could go under the seat or something so that it's essentially locked too. I might just do this to the GS whilst it's in bits!


How often will you unlock the seat pre and post ride though?
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've an old 555 timer book that has a circuit in it that's designed to not stop the starting of an engine, but to make it run as rough as arse by false triggering the ignition, making it almost impossible to drive/ride. Good thing about this is that no-one expects it, and just thinks they're trying to nick a dog.
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 23:01 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mgh0 wrote:
AlexW wrote:
<stuff>
...
An alarm and switch be the way to go, bike is worth less than £800 afterall!

If you're fitting a switch you might want to consider one with a key rather than just a rocker type hidden somewhere. Might take a bit more thinking about/fitting/mounting but maybe more practical.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mgh0 wrote:
How often will you unlock the seat pre and post ride though?


Every time that I wanted to flick the switch. It only takes 5 seconds to unlock the seat, lift it up and lock it again. Nothing compared to gearing up and down.

I think I have another idea instead though now from looking on eBay.
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mgh0
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

map wrote:

If you're fitting a switch you might want to consider one with a key rather than just a rocker type hidden somewhere. Might take a bit more thinking about/fitting/mounting but maybe more practical.


yes, I've rethought it and under the seat is a good idea, especially if I make it a routine to store my chain and disc locks under there.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 00:51 - 17 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFAIK, all an immobiliser does (in essence) is cut the ignition circuit.

So if it bothers you, I'd suggest diking an inline blade fuse holder into the ignition circuit. Pull fuse, job done. If Pikey McScrote turns up with a 30A blade fuse, fair play to him.
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AlexW
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PostPosted: 08:31 - 17 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
AFAIK, all an immobiliser does (in essence) is cut the ignition circuit.


Most decent alarms have 2 to 4 circuits you can cut. Generally starter trigger and then something like the ecu, coil or fuel pump. Try to avoid cutting the starter due to being able to bump it, but its good to have a dead starter.

Also when cutting those circuits, Thatcham suggest to cut a section out of the wire where the alarm goes between, so that you couldnt just rejoin the old wires really easily. Just one of those things to make it take a few more mins for the theif to remove the alarm, should they shut it up in the first place and get away with it.

In my experiance though, Once it has an alarm, they will move onto the next, but its always better to be safe and secure.
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 17 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlexW wrote:


Also when cutting those circuits, Thatcham suggest to cut a section out of the wire where the alarm goes between, so that you couldnt just rejoin the old wires really easily. Just one of those things to make it take a few more mins for the theif to remove the alarm, should they shut it up in the first place and get away with it.



This would mean that if the unit fails, you are well and truly stranded. That said, it is obviously more secure.
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