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project RD350 (ypvs)

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st3v3
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: project RD350 (ypvs) Reply with quote

My uncle had this stored for about 10years he says in a shed.
He cant touch it now and asked me/my old man to restore it. Dad doesnt have a bike licence (and I still have mine for the moment) I figured why not crack on with it and see what it needs..

Theres bits dotted about in not ideal nick so I need to start building up a list of bits to order.

https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/550420_10151186129921102_1335371422_n.jpg

It has:
Engine
Both Exhausts
Tank
Seat
Rear side fairings
Belly pan

And whatever else is bolted to it.

No idea on model etc, yet to check engine/frame number and send off for v5.
Pics to come later today but what places/forums are good places to use for these?
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 15:31 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bare bike:

https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/RD.jpg

Can anyone tell from looking at it of any vital parts missing?
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Tenko
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd guess the fairing...
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

st3v3 wrote:
Bare bike:

https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/RD.jpg

Can anyone tell from looking at it of any vital parts missing?


Looks like an F2

Missing:-

Brake callipers.
Frame infill panels.
Speedo cable holder in the mudguard.
2T oil tank.
Water expansion tank.

Hope that tank's leak proof, they're getting a bit on the expensive side now. They usually go on the 90 degree lip just above the seam.

Good luck with it, get yourself over to the "RD LC Crazy" site and forum, they'll see you reet!
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Asharin
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chain's slack gone.
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Missing a front sprocket too by the looks of it..

Pretty sure that's with the engine though.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 18 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a box full of spares, including a bottom end minus the crank. if you're interested I could crack it out and see exactly what's in it.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 05:18 - 19 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

st3v3 wrote:
Missing a front sprocket too by the looks of it..

Pretty sure that's with the engine though.


Aren't they always? Laughing
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SnowyTupwood
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 02 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's an F2 Powervalve, engine and frame numbers should match and start 1WT, the barrells will have 1UA stamped by the reed blocks

Getting a bit rare now, there used to be loads around, a mint one can go for over 2 grand, restoring one properly a lot more than that Shocked

Really nice bikes, probably the most usable of the powervalves. Engine bits aren't a major problem, just expensive, but finding a decent tank and plastics is a mission Rolling Eyes I speak from expeience, they can be a money pit Sad

For parts:

RDLCCRAZY https://homepage.ntlworld.com/ultimatelccrazy/

https://yambits.co.uk/

Wemoto are good for consumables

Webbs of Lincoln (speak to Andy in parts) for anything that has to be gen yamaha, he's a wealth of knowledge

https://www.rd350lc.net/pageWORLD-1WT.htm is good for reference
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 02:32 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattsprattuk wrote:
I've got a box full of spares, including a bottom end minus the crank. if you're interested I could crack it out and see exactly what's in it.
..uhkay.

Thanks Thumbs Up , although I'm not spending serious money on it until I've got it together enough to see it runs and is worth it.

Suntan Sid wrote:
st3v3 wrote:
Missing a front sprocket too by the looks of it..

Pretty sure that's with the engine though.


Aren't they always? Laughing
Shifty Laughing It might have gone walkabout since it was last used.. but generally, yeah.

Lump:

https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/th_2012-07-03141636.jpg
https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/th_2012-07-03141727.jpg

Getting inside:
https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/th_2012-07-03142446.jpg
https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/th_2012-07-03142358.jpg
https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/stevenns125/th_2012-07-03142410.jpg

I get a quick clip of me turning the pulley so the pistons were active in the bores but since there's no lube it was just enough to test they were smooth + free, they are.

Also the oil is Black but 'ok', do I NEED to worry about seals etc? there's no leaks, it's bone dry outside.

Ordered a Radiator, front and back callipers then tomorrow im researching hoses.

On the plus side I just got a 6month disqualification so that'll help me not need to ride it before it's ready. Laughing
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 05:02 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

st3v3 wrote:
although I'm not spending serious money on it until I've got it together enough to see it runs and is worth it.


Good luck with that. Laughing

If you're talking about crank case seals, that's, obviously going to require a total engine strip down. Mine was sitting outside, in the sun for at least 10 years before I got it, seals seem fine.

Make sure you thouroughly clean the engine casing and barrels before you take the barrels off, it's very easy to get dirt in the crankcase when you remove the barrels.
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m3-paul
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PostPosted: 06:53 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank seals etc are not expensive. It is just time consuming splitting the cases but if it were mine I would replace them as the engine is already out. As above, they can lead to a nice bit of wallet damage but are awesome to ride so worth it to restore in my opinion. Why was it taken off the road and stored in the shed?
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SnowyTupwood
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Change the crank seals, for the minimal outlay it's not worth leaving them, they go hard after a period of time then tear when the engine is running leading to all sorts of water and running problemms.

If there has been moisture in the storing environment then you should really look at a total strip and crank rebuild, any surface rust on the crank pins can kill the big end bearings very quickly, if the end bearing lets go it can take the relevent top end with it, expensive and painful. It's impossible to really know what the crank is like without stripping it, it might feel and look ok from the outside but you can't see the condition of the pins unfortunatly. A crank rebuild is around the 300 quid mark. The mains are not normally too bad, even if it's been standing, but they are not that expensive either.

The rest of the motor should clean up ok by the looks of it, the pics are too small to see any bore damage or major wear, if the pistons are loose in the bores after a good clean up then you could be looking at a rebore and new ones. Mitaka are the best option pricewise. Avoid the really cheap pattern ones, they last five minutes.

You will need to change the powervalve castle seals, they will be knackerd with out a doubt


Quote:

although I'm not spending serious money on it until I've got it together enough to see it runs and is worth it.


Good luck with that. Laughing


Agree with sid here, I wouldn't run that engine as it is, it looks like it's been standing a long while.

It depends on what you want to do with the bike, if it's a back to standard as factory rebuild then it's going to eat money, but if you just want to turn it into something ridable then it can be done cheaply as long as you spend the money in the right places. The engine is everything, all the rest mostly be cleaned up and painted. Although check the frame over carefully, the rust through along the top tubes, but can be repaired.

The key issues for me is what is the tank like? It will have some holes in it unless you are very lucky, normally down by the fuel tap. Decent ones are very hard to find and go for over 200 quid Shocked
Have you got all the electrics? There should be a cdi unit with 1UA written on it and a smaller powervalve controller wedge shaped box, both are difficult to find in working condition and expensive.

I reckon that you could get that up and running for a grand if you can paint and rebuild a lot of it yourself, it's only gets expensive when you have to pay people to do stuff for you

Good luck with it, and of course it's worth it, it's a powervalve!!! Razz

ps www.rdlccrazy.co.uk for hoses, unless you want to try and find some second hand ones
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 19 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right after a scout about in the shed of its storing, I have discovered some parts, saves me buying more.

I was in talks/emails with some sellers of bits but before I order them I'd like to be advised on the chances of recon of the bits I found. (and if anything obvious is missing from the underseat electrics)

https://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg850/scaled.php?server=850&filename=20120818162208.jpg&res=landing

https://img32.imageshack.us/img32/9458/20120818162239.jpg

https://img441.imageshack.us/img441/1174/20120818162427.jpg

https://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9620/20120818162529.jpg

https://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg94/scaled.php?server=94&filename=20120818163001.jpg&res=landingIs this the tail piece?

https://img687.imageshack.us/img687/9283/20120818163107.jpgWhat's this silver thing?
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Roger wrote: Women don't get damp for clingy puppies. Get some better happy pills, hit the gym & buy a medallion the size of a dinner plate. Job done
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 20 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

st3v3 wrote:


Yes indeedy! Now on a par with unicorn droppings, in the rarity stakes, last time I saw one on Ebay the starting bid was £26, IIRC.

That's still got the mounting lugs on the sides, they're the first bits to snap off usually, I'm going to have to bodge some onto mine!
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 01:03 - 02 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

SnowyTupwood wrote:

The key issues for me is what is the tank like? It will have some holes in it unless you are very lucky, normally down by the fuel tap.
How's this?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tAn3qXgqH9g/UEKusvW6EaI/AAAAAAAAAO0/7GEbr-DI-NI/s640/2012-08-26%252016.30.13.jpg

Why was it stored? Just because my uncle wasn't a spoilt little brat at 16 that got anything he wanted. He got this, stripped it after it was nicked/recovered then lost interest and grandma/grandad bought him a new toy.

Then he got a long list of cars over the next 10 years and this was never touched again. he heard mine was nicked then torched so told me to have this in the hope it cheered me up.
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Roger wrote: Women don't get damp for clingy puppies. Get some better happy pills, hit the gym & buy a medallion the size of a dinner plate. Job done
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Robby
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 02 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to stop smearing potato over your lens before taking pictures.

The easiest way to check if the tank is rusted is to put petrol in it and see if it leaks out. If it has been standing empty for decades, then it has probably rusted through.

Likewise the crank is probably rusted. When a 2 stroke engine is standing, at least one port will be open to elements and allow moisture in, which allows bearings and their surfaces to rust. It may start and run, for about 10 miles, then the bearing falls apart and takes the rest of your engine with it.

There is a lot of expensive work involved in putting one of those back on the road after standing for a long time, it isn't just a case of cleaning up the obvious bits and fitting a new battery.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 02 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice 350YPVS project all the same! It looks like you've got most of the bike there, and with a decent but not OTT resto it could be a really good bike again! I would imagine that one problem with RD's is cash permitting, which way to go with it.

It's common to see people re-build them and go way over the top as they get into it more, and end up with a KR replica, and all the fancy aftermarket bit's they wanted on one back in the day. The other pretty common approach is the OE style restoration where people are spending rediculous money on getting them back to how they looked when new and std.

Personally i think VFM wise a std engine re-build, and clean up and re-paint/power coat of all the cycle parts is a good way to go if you just want to build something up to be reliable and enjoy riding.

If you want it to be worth something or possibly to sell it on at some point, then it's going to be a big expensive project that unless you have the time/commitment and a disproportionate budget, then it's probably best selling on to someone else who wants to do a full resto.

I too think that you could have a running, fairly tidy bike for a grand if you can do pretty much everything on it yourself.

My KMX is probably in a similar condition to that, and i'm hoping to get it re-built in supermoto trim for £2k. I'm pretty sure that i'm not risking painting it myself, seat re-covering or wheel building, so i'm already doubting my budget will definately see it finished? But i'll have a go and save where i can and keep my fingers crossed.

You have to have a realistic expectation and also view of what is economically viable to you? In my case if say £2200-2400 is not enough to complete my project, id rarther sell it as spares and go out and buy a nice road bike for £2k, but if i do that i'll have lost and feel a bit of a failure IMO!

I agree with other's comments of you should definately do an engine re-build on it too. I don't any longer believe that you can leave a 2stroke bike for 10years and it still be possible to get it running and have no engine problems.
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 04:14 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
You need to stop smearing potato over your lens before taking pictures.
No idea what that means, the lens is my Sony phone (best cam going) and is clean.

The other points are well received, I have been promising myself a 600 for a couple of years and come getting my licence back I will be getting one but the money I get from selling the cars I can't use will go generously into the RD. I'm chatting with Yambits, and yeah robby I'm going to get some fuel sat in the tank see how it holds up and save up for the engine stuffs.

I want to get it running, I have no idea what 'back in the day' bits were aspired for, Il just be making a simple job of it to get it running. Once that's done il decide where to go. I know people like Rob would love to touch and feel it Laughing but I'm projecting it off the wishes of my uncle, he wont use it again but I have to respect the decision to give it away and can't just pack it off the first time things look hard or expensive.

Thanks so far. Thumbs Up
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Roger wrote: Women don't get damp for clingy puppies. Get some better happy pills, hit the gym & buy a medallion the size of a dinner plate. Job done
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm near you, done loadsa valves, If you need help, advice, or even some bits give me a shout.

OGR
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 05 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

st3v3 wrote:
No idea what that means, the lens is my Sony phone (best cam going) and is clean.

Learn to use the focus then.
Nice bike tho.
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