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Cheapo steering damper?

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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 01:39 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Cheapo steering damper? Reply with quote

Would you buy & trust one of these?
30 quid steering damper.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 08:06 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. They rust like hell in a matter of seconds tearing up the seals. I had one fitted to a zxr400 when I bought it. It was shyte.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just leave your steering to oscillate a bit its meant to.
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Rusto
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
Just leave your steering to oscillate a bit its meant to.


Have you ever had a full lock violent tank slapper? Just sayin...
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 09:43 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
Just leave your steering to oscillate a bit its meant to.


Never had a problem on the road, but i fancy getting one for when i eventually get some track time.

But i think ill get a decent one.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steering oscillates due to wheel going light under acceleration, if wheel is slightly off centre then it will get pulled to the other side, then it happens in reverse over and over. This is head shake. Dropping the power off will put weight back on the front and give it enough weight to affect the direction of the bike violently going side to side.

The other way you can get into a mess is by tightening up on the bars a d physically try to hold them still, this transmits the motion to the rest of the bike through you.

You need to stay loose and keep power on, tank slappers are caused by the rider not the bike.

All a steering damper does is slow down the steering on your quick steering bike, and covers up flaws in your riding technique.

My bike is quite prone to head shake, though I have more issue on a fast a road than on track.
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Rusto
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
Steering oscillates due to wheel going light under acceleration, if wheel is slightly off centre then it will get pulled to the other side, then it happens in reverse over and over. This is head shake. Dropping the power off will put weight back on the front and give it enough weight to affect the direction of the bike violently going side to side.

The other way you can get into a mess is by tightening up on the bars a d physically try to hold them still, this transmits the motion to the rest of the bike through you.

You need to stay loose and keep power on, tank slappers are caused by the rider not the bike.

All a steering damper does is slow down the steering on your quick steering bike, and covers up flaws in your riding technique.

My bike is quite prone to head shake, though I have more issue on a fast a road than on track.


Sorry but that is just ignorant.

Hitting a a potholl or other uneven surface can cause it to happen instantly, leaving no time to react. Yes the best thing to do is power through it, not easy when its flapping at max parameters...
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think they are of more use on the road than on the track for most stable bikes. The track is generally smoother than the road.

Obviously there are exceptions to this, some bikes need one anyway... But still, if you don't need one on the road I doubt you'd need one on the track unless you've altered the suspension or geometry.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
you've altered the suspension or geometry.


The arse has been jacked up by 3"

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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
MarJay wrote:
you've altered the suspension or geometry.


The arse has been jacked up by 3"

Twisted Evil


Not the first time Wink
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

That makes no sense.....
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 10:36 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
MarJay wrote:
you've altered the suspension or geometry.


The arse has been jacked up by 3"

Twisted Evil


Why? That's quite a radical change to the geometry. What have you done to the forks?

My Trumpet has a stock steering damper, it doesn't appear to do that much but it hasn't really got out of shape either.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stiffened up the preload a bit, still working on the rebound lol
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Stiffened up the preload a bit, still working on the rebound lol


I assume that is an attempt at an amusing double entendre, because it makes no sense when it comes to suspension... Razz
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wink
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to get a WP steering damper off ebay for £25, and machined my own mounting kit. Keep an eye out.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Stiffened up the preload a bit, still working on the rebound lol


3" is quite a lot, what's the sag when you're sat on it? Rebound shouldnt affect the ride height much.

I put a Hagon CBR600 shock in my NC29, it's slightly longer and raised the rear a bit but hasn't caused me any issues, just sharpened the steering a bit. And made it feel slightly less like a child's bike.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've thrown a zx6r shock in there cos the zxr one popped.
I do need to wind off the spring a bit as the sag is near minimal.

its all WIP
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lihp
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

rusto wrote:


Sorry but that is just ignorant.

Hitting a a potholl or other uneven surface can cause it to happen instantly, leaving no time to react. Yes the best thing to do is power through it, not easy when its flapping at max parameters...


Hitting a pot hole or uneven surface at road speeds or at cruise is likely to just deflect the bike, if you're riding or accelerating that fast that an UNeven surface or pot hole throws the bike into a tank slapper then you are riding way too fast on a road and for the conditions.

The fact is, is that tank slappers are caused by the rider, these instantly happening ones that you believe in, is simply to blame the machine so you can carry on the belief that you're a riding god on a supersport
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Rusto
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:

Hitting a pot hole or uneven surface at road speeds or at cruise is likely to just deflect the bike, if you're riding or accelerating that fast that an UNeven surface or pot hole throws the bike into a tank slapper then you are riding way too fast on a road and for the conditions.

The fact is, is that tank slappers are caused by the rider, these instantly happening ones that you believe in, is simply to blame the machine so you can carry on the belief that you're a riding god on a supersport


I think you're being unjustly condescending, where did you get this idea that I think i'm a a riding god and blame my bike? Seriously?

I can't fault the r6, the chances of something like that happening are extremely slim, but it can happen and a steering damper will help if you are unlucky enough to have it happen.

It more likely seems that you think you are a riding god because it has never happened to you.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never said it hasn't happened to me Wink
I simply applied a stereotype as to the most common reasons steering dampers are fitted.

If the steering is too fast why buy something that you cannot control? Often the reason is because they can, and then fit a damper.

In the long term its better to identify your flaws as a rider then work on them.

Am I a riding god? No, I'm not, nor do I spend hundreds of pounds on trick bits to cover my flaws, I spend the time learning and practicing good technique, I also ride an r6 and do over 13k miles per year on it, I have had it in horrible situations at the time, but didn't run out to buy something to "fix" the bike. I took the time to learn, practice and fix the rider.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, just to add, it wouldn't be unlucky, in fact if you rode in a way it could happen, I would describe it with words such as, likely, probable, expected. Not unlucky.

If it catches you unaware or you're "unlucky" It's more likely lack of experience and knowledge.
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lizard821000
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your going to fit one i wouldnt use some cheapoo one, the thing could lock up and then youd be fked.

iv heard of this happening with these cheap ones too!
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1cyl
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The other way you can get into a mess is by tightening up on the bars a d physically try to hold them still, this transmits the motion to the rest of the bike through you.


So when I pull on/brace the bars as i fly up over a hill as the front end lightens up and wobbles........... your saying i should be keeping loose? Instead of getting ridgid and physically trying to prevent slappings? Confused
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Michael47
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 24 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you plan on going on track I would get a proper one - on track you're more likely to push the bike into a slapper .. some bikes though really need one for going flat out even ni a straight line.
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