those who have ridden 90's cbr's

[Fowlersrs]

Can someone with some serious Honda knowledge do me a favour, I am seriously at a CBR600 as my next bike, due to insurance reasons it must be pre 98 as something drastically changes to them in 98 that makes the 0's models too much in insure, am I right in thinking the following?:

*the very early ones, on K plates etc upto a certain year where steel framed?

*then a certain year they updated alot? what year was that?

*what are the things to look out for on these bikes, I believe theres 2 version if im going to look at pre 98 models, what do I need to know about both?! Im a complete newb to this bike but I really do think there gonna be my next bike as I like the money they can be had for and the endless supply of spares making maintenance no hassle..

so, what should I be paying, what should I not even think of purchasing, what are the signs of a dog, etc, etc..

give me as much info as u can thanks

[lihp]

Not much to really go wrong with them tbh, though do listen out for cam chain noise, not expensive but can bargain you £50 off.

The fairing brace is prone to bending in crashes so check the straightness of the cockpit fairing.

[Nick 50]

I'll answer on the bits I know of.

F3 Models ran from 95-98.

On the F3 models:

95 (FS model)
96 (FT model)

Are both the same spec:

https://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_cbr_600_f3_1995.php

97 (FV Model)
98 (FW Model)

Are both the same spec:

https://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_cbr_600_f_1997.php[url]

The later F3 models got a bit of a boost in HP (100bhp>105bhp)

Cosmetically they are pretty similar. Main differences to differentiate the too is the pillion handle and the intake at the front.

Things to look for:

It's at least a 14 year old bike, so check the usual stuff that will wear with age. Bearings, fork seals, fairings.

Engine wise they are pretty strong. Try and find a bike with as much service history as possible.
Listen to the engine for any rattles. Stick your hand over the exhaust (especially if its an aftermarket one) and ask them to rev the bike a bit and listen to it on idle. It should be really quiet with no rattly sound.

Going from neutral to 1st is quite clunky which is normal. On gears, on the test ride, accelerate pretty hard in 2nd to make sure it doesn't jump back into neutral. If it does walk away.

Check exhaust system. Is it stainless? what state is it in. Look for rust and make sure it isn't blowing.

Generally for me the best indication of how well maintained a bike is I look around the front sprocket area. If it is seriously gunked up its a bad sign.

Finally centre stand? is it on? Yes ok, if no where is it? Centre stand was so helpful for me.

Prices??

Last week they were much lower than this week for some reason.

Expect to pay up to £1400. There are ones on e-bay for more.

I've just sold (today) a 97 with a bit of scrapes with 33k for £1050.



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Current Bikes: ZX7r 97 (Black Beauty), VFR400 NC24 (The banana)
Previous Bikes: Aprilia Tuono 03 (The Beast), CBR600f (97)
First bike: A GZ125 Lemon.......

[DSK]

I have a miny 1995 model, steel frame, but as mentioned before listen for the cam chain rattle, cheap easy fix though, and ask questions about the regulator/rectifier. If its not been chnaged recently bank on a new one at some point.

Other than that, they do all you can want of a bike, and are pretty much bullet proof if looked after.
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Current Bike - 1990 CBR600 FL Benetton edition.

[JP7]

The 1999 FX onwards changed to alloy frames, before that they were steel.

As DSK says, if it hasn't had the reg/rec changed then it will need it, they routinely go wrong on those and cause all sorts of issues.

Other than that, they're quite a solid bike and you should be able to pick up a reasonable one for around the £1k mark.

[lihp]

Also check electrical connections, I had to rewire the plug for the reg/rec presumably damaged from the heat of a dead rec plus having years of being plugged in and out from regular faulty ones.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Reg/recs aren't as bad as legend suggests. Certainly no need to change it "just in case". When it goes pop, then change it.
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[Fowlersrs]

Cheers for the info guys, my neighbour has one in his shed that he use to ride until he upgraded to a 900 fireblade. its in the old orange and purple repsol paint, tbh its been well ridden and has alot of cracks and scratches on the fairings, hes said I can take it out to see how it rides, but he wants 800/900 for it and to me for a bike that mechanically may run is too much, its a bit of state bodywork wise, but how much does a bike like that that runs well mechanically fetch??!

I dont want to insult the bloke but I wouldnt pay more than 500 for it, but I think its a bike thats close to his heart, as he learned most of his riding on it, I just want to know what I should be offering him for it without taking the piss.

Its on a J plate and has 50k on the clock.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

T&T?
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[lihp]

I paid £900 about 3 years ago for one with 12000 miles on it and was very clean and had all bodywork panels in tact and original.

that was a 92 model. (F2)

[Fowlersrs]

[Nick 50]

AFAIK UK CBR's of that model/age didn't have repsol colour schemes. So it is either an import or possible been crashed/dropped which meant its had its fairings changed.

Personally I wouldn't pay anything more than £700.

Some more info on them:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f2-16/cbr600f2-super-review-cbr-comes-age-96801/
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Current Bikes: ZX7r 97 (Black Beauty), VFR400 NC24 (The banana)
Previous Bikes: Aprilia Tuono 03 (The Beast), CBR600f (97)
First bike: A GZ125 Lemon.......

[Suntan Sid]

I’ve got a second-hand F2 now approaching 50k miles.

https://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l41/marki_03/P5272692Medium.jpg

It came with a high mileage, no service history, a lack of fairings and a, knackered, chain adjuster.
The only problem I’ve had with it was the oil cooler seals giving up, a 2 hour job, if you take your time.
Still pulls really well and handles well, despite it having been chucked down the road in a previous life. Probably needs the fork oil changing and possibly new head bearings ATM, so nothing major.
It can still be used and abused, without having to worry too much.
The footrests and handle bars are very buzzy at certain rpm’s.
My only real complaint would be comfort, I wouldn’t like to be sat on it for more than 2 hours without a break, digs in to the back of your thighs.

So no real complaints, it still does what it was intended to do, despite having a hard life before I got it.

I’m going to ditch what remains of the fairing over the winter.
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[Jim Mc]

They'll all be steel framed, what else would they make them from? Titanium's too expensive and aluminium is too soft.

[CaNsA]

This is the list of stuff i checked when buying a 1995 cbr600f3.

Things to keep an eye out for...

-Check the discs dont have a massive ridge at the edge.
-New brake pads
-Ask about the wheel bearings, put it on the centre stand and spin the front wheel, and the same with the back. check for a grinding/knocking sound from the centre of the wheel > if so then new bearings.
-While on the centre stand, sit on the bike, lean back so the front lifts a few inches and slowly move the bars from left to right. If you feel and knotches then you will need new headstock bearings, ballache of a job to do and costly on labour if you got to a garage to get it done.
-Check chain and sprockets
-Listen for a knocking sound from the engine.
-ask him not to start the bike until you get there, you want to see how easy it starts from cold.
-feel the engine before it starts to see if he has warmed it up. if he has, ask why. if you dont like his answer walk away.
-look on the downpipes for any holes, and feel/listen for any blowing from the downpipes and exhausts pipe and can.
-take the oil filler cap off and look for any white cheesy looking gunk > water in the engine not good.
-The gearbox should make a re-assuring "THUNK" when you knock it into 1st gear. The clutch may rattle/rustle a little and it should stop when you pull the clutch in.

If at any point you get a bad vibe, not to be mistake for a scared of the power vibe, then walk away. there are thousands of other bikes out there.

[Vincent]

[DrDonnyBrago]

[mfactor]

I am not a fan of Hondas but I bought a CBR600 F R 1994 F2 of Ebay for £600 a few years ago as a stopgap, good condition , 28000 miles.

Typical Honda, did everything extremely well perfect first bike IMO.

[lihp]

[supZ]

rofl silly reply is silly


as mentioned above you'll be fine up to 98 after that they went to an ally frame for a 2 year run, still carbs, then moved to injection from 2001+

id try to get a 97/98 FW/V if i were you they're just more refined then the older ones. 95/96 are fine (im not a fan of the squarer tailend though) but anything previous to that and the brakes arent as good, clocks are dated, mechanical driven speedo, etc.. the 95-98s are just superior but wont cost you anything more on insurance i wouldnt have thought.

thats not to say the older ones arent still capable machines, the F3s are just a bit more refined.

great workhorse. great bikes. was my 1st bike and my current trackbike
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CBR954RR - Daily toy
CBR600RR - Trackbike

[chris-red]