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Matt-
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Joined: 19 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 06 Aug 2012    Post subject: New Toy ( Nsr ) Reply with quote

Just purchased a NSR Which has had a restoration recently:

Full Respray
Top End Rebuild
Frame Has Been Sprayed
New Power valve
K&N Filter
Arrow Exhaust

It's a lovely bike, but i have got some questions, i have searched them but got no where ....

The bike need's a new front tyre as its very low,
where can i get one cheap but half decent ?

Running in, i was told i should put a cap full of Fully Synthetic 2 Stroke oil in the tank with every full tank of fuel, first 100 miles up to 5k Rev's then after for the next 300 mile's i should be at 6k rev's, ( also warming up before ) is this correct ?

many thanks if any of you can help !

picture link below

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=160856240981[/img]
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RIP jack (wheelie king), you will never be forgotten.
Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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Amreet
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Joined: 31 May 2010
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 06 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for the tyre, don't bother trying to do 'cheap'
ring a tyre place and ask them what it costs and what their cheapest tyre option in that size is and deal with the cost. Pay cheap pay twice, and when tyres are concerned, pay cheap pay with your life.

As for running in, its never a precise art with any vehicle, look up details on what running in actually does and make your own choices based on that. There is a growing school of thought that 'hard' break in procedures are better, where you apply short bursts of hard acceleration on the engine, gradually increasing the RPM peak rather than riding really gently everywhere.

Riding gently is the safest break in but also can lead to a less than optimum seal between the piston rings and the barrel, whereas a hard break in can help to force the piston rings outwards to the barrel creating a better seal. do a bit of googling and make your choice based on that.
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think I'm going to do this:

5k Revs for 200 Mile's
6k Revs For A Further 400 Miles
7k Revs Till 500 Then A Couple Of Red Lines Up To 1000 Miles
then Nail it.

as for the Tyre i am going to get a Continental ContiGo! For £61.34
plus £25.00 fitting. Does seem rather high when you can get a continental car tyre for under £60.00 On some size's !

Also my front brake lever is rather close to the throttle, i will get round to changing it after MOT but will it pass with that?

And also number plate, i would like a very slightly smaller number plate than a road legal one , anybody know any sites or ebay listing's which do it ?

Many Thanks

Matt
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Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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mfactor
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

SomeGuyy wrote:
Think I'm going to do this:

5k Revs for 200 Mile's
6k Revs For A Further 400 Miles
7k Revs Till 500 Then A Couple Of Red Lines Up To 1000 Miles
then Nail it.

as for the Tyre i am going to get a Continental ContiGo! For £61.34
plus £25.00 fitting. Does seem rather high when you can get a continental car tyre for under £60.00 On some size's !

Also my front brake lever is rather close to the throttle, i will get round to changing it after MOT but will it pass with that?

And also number plate, i would like a very slightly smaller number plate than a road legal one , anybody know any sites or ebay listing's which do it ?

Many Thanks

Matt


Thats fine for running in but don't let it labour at low revs either, I cant remember do you have a adjuster on the lever, screw and locknut maybe.

For no. plate look for "show plate" on ebay
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P.addy
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P.



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top end rebuild... 6k for 250 miles.
8k for another 250 miles.

Change spark plug after this time and rag the living shit out of it once warm.

I ran my RS in doing 200km under 5k, then kept taking a quick blast up to around 8-9k every now and then in 2nd/3rd gear.

Got to about 600km and I was ragging this thing around.
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mfactor
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="_Iain_"]
Amreet wrote:

Now the brake issue.

The levers close to the throttle, either the fluids low, or the pads are nearly fucked. The system could be leaking if the fluids low. That front brake does 70% of your braking. Go up the road and try an emergency stop on rear brake only. It'll give you an idea of whats going to happen when that tractor pulls out on you on your favourite back lane. Or what happens when that kid runs out between parked cars.
Neutral



Yep agree on the above but if its just worn a trick we used to use was where the bit of the brake lever goes into the mechanism to activate the brake you can fit in a small nut or washer which is like adjusting an adjustable one
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Matt-
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Joined: 19 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: 15:06 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah i am going to go for a Mid Range Tyre Very Happy

As for the brake i was told that it has has the wrong lever put on it as it's a import :/ maybe right maybe wrong , if i could somehow adjust it i will do that, their is brake lever's on eBay for £6.00 it's for a 1993 model but i don't know if it will fit.

as for the run it i am VERY confused i have been advised from many people to take it slow, with low rev's , without putting the engine under strain in any gear :/ anymore suggestions ?

Many Thanks

Matt
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RIP jack (wheelie king), you will never be forgotten.
Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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P.addy
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P.



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PostPosted: 15:10 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

SomeGuyy wrote:
as for the run it i am VERY confused i have been advised from many people to take it slow, with low rev's , without putting the engine under strain in any gear :/ anymore suggestions ?

Many Thanks

Matt


Keep the revs low but varied around the first 200 miles.

To be honest... the top end rebuild only really needs 100miles, a full rebuild with bearings down the bottom end need longer.

Just keep revs around 6k tops for 100 miles then rag the mothers out of it after.
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Matt-
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Joined: 19 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
SomeGuyy wrote:
as for the run it i am VERY confused i have been advised from many people to take it slow, with low rev's , without putting the engine under strain in any gear :/ anymore suggestions ?

Many Thanks

Matt


Keep the revs low but varied around the first 200 miles.

To be honest... the top end rebuild only really needs 100miles, a full rebuild with bearings down the bottom end need longer.

Just keep revs around 6k tops for 100 miles then rag the mothers out of it after.



Very mixed opinions, what about 300 miles of 5 then 6 then 7 k miles, THEN, Nail it ?
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RIP jack (wheelie king), you will never be forgotten.
Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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P.addy
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P.



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PostPosted: 15:25 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats too much for just a top end...

A full rebuild about 500 mile run in.
Top end, 100-150 tops... its only a piston, and it does what it does, ride it around till its warm, get it to 6k then change gear, keep doing that... can open it a bit more if you feel comfortable!
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Thats too much for just a top end...

A full rebuild about 500 mile run in.
Top end, 100-150 tops... its only a piston, and it does what it does, ride it around till its warm, get it to 6k then change gear, keep doing that... can open it a bit more if you feel comfortable!


I am going to do what you first said i have done some reading, better be safe than sorry, so i am going to do 6k for 250 then 8k for further 250 then change the plug then nail it Thanks Paddy Very Happy
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RIP jack (wheelie king), you will never be forgotten.
Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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P.addy
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P.



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PostPosted: 16:00 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be aware I thought you had a full rebuild. Top end doesn't require that much run in, also don't run fully synth straight away do a tank of cheaper stuff to let it all bed properly "upstairs"
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Amreet
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 31 May 2010
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Amreet wrote:
As for the tyre, don't bother trying to do 'cheap'
ring a tyre place and ask them what it costs and what their cheapest tyre option in that size is


Amreet; were you on the sauce last night by any chance? Very Happy



hahaha sorry about that.

my point was along the lines of don't do £30 from china on ebay + flathead screwdriver and bicycle pump! Most tyre places will only offer a selection of known quantity tyres, where the price will differ by 10 or 20 quid but you know that whatever they put on is probably trust worthy for most within reason riding conditions, since their reputation will be shattered if a wank tyre fails on someone.
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Be aware I thought you had a full rebuild. Top end doesn't require that much run in, also don't run fully synth straight away do a tank of cheaper stuff to let it all bed properly "upstairs"



Think I'm just going to do 6k for 150
Then upto 8k for a further 150 then normaly Smile

Sound ok guys ?

Many thanks
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RIP jack (wheelie king), you will never be forgotten.
Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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P.addy
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P.



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PostPosted: 20:59 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds ok...but you could probably do 100 on 6k with regular blips to about 8-9k and then start increasing big ranges from then.
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P.addy
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P.



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PostPosted: 21:03 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Just as important as the revs/mileage is not to run it for too long at first and stay away from steep hills. As above, try not to "labour" the motor.

I had a mate that used to run his bikes in by leaving them ticking over in the garage overnight with a fan in front of the engine Razz


But then there is no force seating the rings...
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

So some blips to 8k won't damage the bore in any way ?
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RIP jack (wheelie king), you will never be forgotten.
Current Bike's - Road Legal TZR 125 Pitbike, Aprilia SR50R 2010
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swampy
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 07 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just as a side note about pre mixing the oil/petrol, I did that when I rebuilt my nsr (I was paranoid about the oil feed having an air lock) and fouled the plug to the extent the bike cut out and wouldn't restart..

I've tried really hard to remember how I ran it in, but it was 10ish years ago now and in all honestly I can't remember.
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