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kmx 125 pressurising cooling system

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Beamexican
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 09 May 2009
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 28 Aug 2012    Post subject: kmx 125 pressurising cooling system Reply with quote

Alright lads as per the title my bike appears to be pushing air into the cooling system, If I run the bike without the rad cap on I can see it pushing air up out of the system, ive just rebuilt the engine and I've bled the system several times, squeezed pipes etc.

Am I right in thinking that it could only be the base/headgasket or am I missing something glaringly obvious, everything is torqued up according to the manual and this didn't happen the last 3 times I built this engine

Any help would be much appreciated as Im getting a bit fed up now.
Rick
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HD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 16 Dec 2009
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 28 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is actually happening? Are there just a few bubbles as these could be caught in the system and when fluid is pushed around they are released.

Or is it a constant flow? And are you sure you are bleeding it correctly?
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bennell09
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 12 May 2011
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 28 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget there is a bleed screw south of the spark plug on the head, make sure you have bled from that screw if you haven't already
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dangerousdave
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Joined: 22 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 28 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

have never run the engine without the radiator cap so can't say i've ever noticed any bubbles when the engine is running. Possibly a few bubbles trapped in the system which then circulate when the water pump fires up.

are you leaking any water from anywhere around the cylinder? Does the fluid level drop after riding it ?

is the bike overheating ?

If no problem with either then you should be fine.
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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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stevo as b4
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 29 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It won't be the base gasket, as the KMX doesnt drain down from the barrel to the water pump through the crank cases like alot of 2strokes do. It has a much better system IMO of taking the coolant via hose straight from the cylinder barrel to the pump, which eliminates one possible source of coolant leaks/ gasket breach.

Id say it has to be Head gasket related or cracks or damage to the head or barrel in the area of the coolant passages. Was it an OE or a pattern head gasket?
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Beamexican
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 09 May 2009
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PostPosted: 07:48 - 29 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hd if I rev the bike with the rad cap off its actually spitting water out the the top, i've bled the system correctly several times in the last 2 days and multiple times before that and never had a problem before so cant see there being air in the system,

Dangerous dave I always run the bike without the rad cap the first time I start it after bleeding to allow any air bubbles to escape and yes the bike does overheat ad its loosing coolant out of the overflow pretty fast when the rad caps on.

Stevo its a pattern gasket, these have always been fine before, I should really have bought a genuine headgasket but having just shelled out for a crank rebuild, mains, topend etc my wallet was hurting, starting to think it must be the headgasket.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 29 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beamexican wrote:
starting to think it must be the headgasket.


If not a warped head as well.

Been using this stuff since Pete introduced me to it, works wonders.
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stevo as b4
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 12:52 - 29 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a positive it wont take long to whip off the head and check everything out. The pattern gasket might have been a faulty item from new, not to say that pattern gaskets are not good quality, but id always use OEM for a Head gasket personally even if all the other gaskets were pattern items.

Check the head face with a straight edge and feeler guage, and if it is warped you should get away with a light skim. Id also check for corrossion of the water jacket holes in the head and cylinder barrel. It's possible that you have got a crack in the head or deck surface of the cylinder.
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karthead
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 29 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

If not a warped head as well.

Agreed...

Usually bubbles from the coolant is a bad sign. Just whip the head off and take it to a machining shop to get it measured and possibly skimmed. They are also able to tell if there are any cracks in the head or block. Pretty sure you can do this yourself with a simple compression test- that is with everything together as it is now, obviously Very Happy Were both surfaces bloody clean when you put it back together?
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Beamexican
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 09 May 2009
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 29 Aug 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gasket faces were spotless and comp test was 150 psi, seems odd that the head would be warped as Weit was fine before I had to get the crank rebuilt.
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RS1Banger
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 08 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 02 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had same issue with a tdr125
I fitted a new head gasket and it still pressurised the rad Confused

Whipped the head off, got out a sheet of glass and some sandpaper, the outer edge of the water jacket was sanding, but not the inner cylinder to water part, it was slightly concave and not pressing firmly on the inner part of the gasket, carried on sanding for 15 mins till the inner part was sanding up too, refitted and all was well, fingers crossed, so far Smile
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karthead
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 03 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beamexican wrote:
Gasket faces were spotless and comp test was 150 psi, seems odd that the head would be warped as Weit was fine before I had to get the crank rebuilt.

Weit?
You should still check if it is flat, you can do this by putting sandpaper on a flat surface and sanding the head for a few strokes, look at the result, if it only shaved the edges it's warped, however it won't tell you to what extent it's warped so its basically pointless (and now I'm pondering why I even mentioned it Laughing ).
I have learned that you can do the ol' sandpaper stuck on a glass table to sand it flat trick, but thats only a good idea for small surface area warpage (so i have learned...) Other than that you should take it to a machining shop, they'll probably throw in a valve job for you also (maybe)...
Good luck Smile
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Beamexican
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 03 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the barrel and head machined as the barrel was warped and only sealing around the outside and the head done to match, all sorted now as the barrel was useless in that state.
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