Rough idling on cold starts

[Louis101993]

Hello all, wondering if any of you could help me

My Fazer (FZS600 1999) doesn't like idling when it first starts up, even on a day like today, 18 degree's and I cant just start it and let it idle, I either have to put a tiny bit of choke on or give it a few blips of revs when it sounds like its about to die, the idle starts at about 1050 and if I leave it without the choke, it will work it way down to around 600-700 before it cuts out.

I've noticed that the down pipes from cylinder 3 + 4 seems to take longer to warm up than the other 2, I know electrical problem tie 1+4 and 2+3 together so I've ruled that out (correct me if I'm wrong)

Once it's up to running temp she idles nice and steadily at 1.2k, no dropping in revs or wanting to cut out

So my best guess is the valve clearance on cylinder 3 + 4 may be too loose, and when it warms up the expansion of the valve creates a better seal hence idling fine once up to temp?

27,000 miles on the engine, not sure if the clearance has ever been adjusted before.

Just looking for some second opinions before I go ahead and strip her down, I've got a Haynes manual and it seems very long winded, does anybody else have a simpler way to get at the valves to shove a feeler gauge in?

Thanks, Louis.
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A2 License Acquired 18/05/2011
Daelim E5 '08 ->Honda CG '99 -> Kawasaki ZXR 400 RR '96 -> Suzuki SV650 '00 (Naked) -> Yamaha Fazer '99

[unitynotsocri...]

at the mileage you say it 's worth checking the shim clearance and you should'nt expect it to idle smoothl till its hot,a lot of high state of tune bikes have difficulty ticking over when cold.Auto chokes also need checking as well.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[Pete.]

[Louis101993]

[Fizzer Thou]

All of my bikes have carbs and no matter what the temperature is I always start them on full choke and back it off as soon as the engine has started.My Exup struggles a little but this is only because the airbox has been replaced by individual pod filters.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[janner_10]

My fazer did similar things from cold, needed lots of revs and it never liked any choke at all. Once warm it was fine. I used to start her up and ride sensibly straight away from cold rather than prick about trying to get it warm on the drive way.

From memory the valve clearances need checking at 24k (or maybe 26) - might be worth looking into getting yours done, but as long as the engine hasn't gone quiet and it still sounds like a rusty sewing machine from cold, you should be ok.
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Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[0l0dom0l0]

It's probably worth checking the clearances anyway, but that won't be that cause of your problems.

Both my Fazers, 98 and a 2002 model needed a little bit of choke to get them going, regardless of the temperature. Try giving it a little bit of choke (you only need enough to make the engine idle at 2k) and leave it with the choke on idling at about 2k until you get on the bike.

Then just turn the choke off and ride it.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[lozzypop1]

My bike basically needs choke on all but the hottest of days to start up. I've been advised that this is due to the fuelling being correct, as when it's up to temperature there is no problems at all.
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Funny, I used to hate being spanked as a child!
Tell me and I'll forget; show me and I may remember; involve me and I'll understand.

[Louis101993]

Thanks to everybody for the great help, I think it may be me just being to cautious

I've checked the plugs, all gapped correctly and a good colour, I'm gonna get the air filter out tomorrow and give that a clean, and put some fresh oil in, would it be worth putting 10w-30w oil in for over the winter?

TL;DR - Plugs are fine, gonna clean air filter tomorrow, should I put 10w-30w in for over the winter (due a change anyway)
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A2 License Acquired 18/05/2011
Daelim E5 '08 ->Honda CG '99 -> Kawasaki ZXR 400 RR '96 -> Suzuki SV650 '00 (Naked) -> Yamaha Fazer '99

[janner_10]

I would get into the habit of changing oil. I did mine every 2k miles, and new filter every other change.

I used Asda 10-40w semi for the life of the bike. Such easy bikes to work on and maintain.

Just don't drive into the side of a car, they don't like that!
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Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[0l0dom0l0]

Nah, use 10w - 40, its what the manual recommends and covers temperateness that we see in England, even in the winter.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.