HID lighting / Charging setup on a CG125

[davidzweig]

The CG125 has two coils, one for lighting (AC direct), and one for charging the battery.

I have a spare regulator. Could I connect the lighting coil to a second regulator and have extra amps available for a DC HID ballast or a 12V laptop charger? Would depend on the configuration of the second coil I suppose, and might have to be careful about how the second regulator is plumbed into the wiring of the rest of the bike, would probably need a couple of resistors (see https://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?73639-Parallel-Voltage-regulators )

The alternative would be an HID ballast that accepts AC, like this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-35W-AC-DIGITAL-PREMIUM-XENON-HID-REPLACEMENT-BALLAST-/300768733059

Would the coil provide sufficient voltage/current for this to run, even at idle? Apparently it's happy with AC 9V-16V.

[unitynotsocri...]

In theory yes,but the added weight and magnetic feild force on the flywheel would reduce your top speed and sap the power a little,as well as burn the coil out earlier ,try a 100 quid LED lamp and a 25 inverter which can be attached to the 12v battery.
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[Teflon-Mike]

Check the wiring schematic, the AC-Direct lighting coil is likely to be switched to the rectifier when the lights are 'off' to help charge the battery anyway.

In which case, if you want to run 12 HID, may be a simple case of by-passing AC-Direct feed from genny, past the light switches, so that the charge goes constantly to the battery, then taking an ignition switched live to the light switch & hence to the HID Balast box.

My DT was 6v, with AC-Direct, but mag bunged out enough volts to sipply a pit-bike four-pin 12v Reg-Rect.

I took out-puts of both charge & lighting coil to input pins of reg-rect, one to earth, then forth to battery.

Then ran feeds to all divices straight off the battery, snipping the 'swich-over' returns in the lamp-switches that would have put AC-Direct to the original 6v ballast & zenner......

Worked pretty darn well, TBH.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
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[Pol Anorl]

So can he do it or not...
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[davidzweig]

Was looking at wiring diagrams here:

https://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/electrics.php

Honda completely changed the wiring in 2001 with the CG125 M-1 model, when they added the electric start. No more AC lighting, so you wouldn't need any modification for 2001 and later models.

And I think for the pre-2001 models, you could be right, Mike. Any way to check this? What is the role of the big resistor in the circuit?

[davidzweig]

Oh, hold on. I think it's coming..

[Teflon-Mike]

Well if that's the right wiring diagram, then you have two wires coming out of the generator, both going to the reg-rect; white, which would seem to be the charge coil, and yellow, which would appear to be the AC-Direct lights.

Yellow is tapped off before the reg-rect and goes to the light switch to power head, tail & park lamps.

SO... by MY reconing ALL you need do.......

Is cut the yellow wire between the light switch and junction, and T it in instead to I THINK the common ignition switched 'live' which is black wire...

THEN you have lighting and charge circuits charging the battery, and lights running off the ignition switched live....

And you could run standard 12v HID off the headlamp terminals..... provided you have an H4 headlamp to take J4 HID bulb, that is.

As far as charging is concerned, would be like riding around without the lights on.

BUT you would drain more from the battery running lamps.....

35w HID will be a LOT brighter than a 12DC halogen, and take less power, BUT, whatrs the stock head-lamp?

25W tungsten? Halogen will suck more juice than that, its 10W up, for starters, AND it will ALWAYS grab its juice from the battery, regardless of whether the genny is delivering enough to keep it topped, where AC-Direct, wouldn't, it'll just go dim.

I think, given the rather low out-put of the CG genny, I would replace the flasher for a solid state LED compatible item, and replacing indicator bulbs, the dash back-light bulbs, the idiot lamp bulbs and the tail-lamp bulbs for LEDS to save power consumption.

Did this on both the DT and Snowie's Pup.....

Daftly 21w indicator bulbs are almost as powerful as your headlamp! So is the stop-lamp; while the peanut bulbs for the speedo back-light, hi-beam tell-take, indicator tell-tale and neutral warning lamp, are probably all around 4w and sucking as much juice as the tail-lamp!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[davidzweig]

I'm bidding on a 35W Hid system, will let you know how it goes, the headlight is aftermarket and takes H4 bulbs.

Didn't realize earlier that you seem to need the ballast, bulb and *also* a controller box that allows you to plum the ballast/bulb solenoid into the existing wiring so the high/low function works.

[davidzweig]

Cool, I won the auction. Will post a report.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221119079304

8000K unfortunately so will look a bit silly.