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If anyone could help me (link to my post on another forum)

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yohomiesmelly...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 03 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: If anyone could help me (link to my post on another forum) Reply with quote

https://www.125ccsportsbikes.com/forums//index.php?act=ST&f=11&t=5816&st=0#entry78846

This is my post on another forum and is to do with the problem i am having with fueling on my TZR125R. I would post it all here but its probably better u read my stuff on there.

If anyone could help it would be great thanks
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yohomiesmelly...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 03 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 01:22 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to get a little more time so i have posted below what i have said in the other forum

Quote:
TZR125R 4DL flooding engine at standstill

I have found out how to temporarily solve the problem by turning off the fuel (duh) when the bike is stood but its a niggly thing to keep having to do about 20 seconds before parking up so i was wondering...

Do i just drop the needle?

Do i replace the imulsifying (sp? correct?) tube in the carb?

Is it my coil + HT lead which is worn (spark is yellow) and not all the fuel in the cylinder is being burnt (hence engine is flooding?

Will re-jetting back to my 148 main jet from a 140 cause even more problems for me?

thanks all as im very very confused

--------------------------------------

i was wondering...

As i have changed the main jet which is a 148 to a 140 wont this be letting less fuel in and therefore as the oil pump has stayed adjusted to how it was when i was using the 148 main jet is this making me run rich?

Hence... if i put my 148 main jet in and keep all the other settings the same do u think i will counteract how rich it is running at the moment?

cheers

---------------------------------------

Sorry i meant that it floods when its off! odd i know. If i dont turn the fuel off at the tap then the bike floods and when i go to start it, it wont fire up.

Also when im reving the bike at stand still (to about 7 - 8000 revs) it really pumps a shit load of smoke out at the back and i mean A LOT of smoke. Its definitely two stroke coming out but i cant figure out how to stop it. It also pumps a great deal of smoke out when i start the bike and i have a trail of smoke following me down the road for about 30 seconds before it goes away.

My carb is a delorto VHSA32GS and the oil is pumped directly into the vaccum tunnel. I was wondering that because i lowered at the main jet which is in the float chamber i have richened the fuel and oil mixture and im running well rich!

If i go up a few jets back to my 148 maybe will this lean out the mixture at bit? My oil pump is set up correctly.

Also does the float have to be fully dropped at tick over as it seems when i turn the tick over adjuster (which raises the float e.g. letting more fuel + air through) it is raising the needle too high and therefore letting fuel through and the engine flood.


anyone lend a hand... im not too sure on where to go with this
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:38 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have a look at the needle valve and check the floats (I think you may be getting mixed up between the throttle valve and the float. The float is a plastic or brass thing inside the float bowl that shuts off the fuel when it reaches a certain level, the throttle valve is what goes up and down when you move the throttle).

Have a look at the 'NSR pissing petrol' thread, I think he has a similar problem to you, just a bit more severe. I have gone into some detail about how to check the needle valve/float assembly on there.

Your float height could also be too high, but as I said to him. Best not to mess unless you have eliminated everything else first.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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yohomiesmelly...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 03 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know from what i have seen when i opened up the carb that the floats connot be adjusted and they close nothing off but only seem to regulate the amount of fuel inside the float chamber.

Any ideas to the questions. the needle and needle valve are fine and the needle was replaced recently. The throttle valve is that which is moved up and down by the idle adjusted i have watched it in operation when i stripped the carb down.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 02:12 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the float height is correct and there is no leakage from the needle valve, there is no possible way for the fuel to get out of the float bowl and into your engine without air passing through the carb to suck it out (ie the engine turning over).

The main jet should have no effect on starting the bike as it should be completley closed off by the throttle needle.

The spark is yellow? It should be blue and fat. I was once told that 70% of carburettor problems are electric. Replace the HT lead, plug cap and plug (about 7.50 all in). Clean any rust off the frame earth behind the coil (where the coil bolts to the frame) and check the terminals for corrosion.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 06:40 - 23 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Is it my coil + HT lead which is worn (spark is yellow) and not all the fuel in the cylinder is being burnt (hence engine is flooding?


Doesn't sound to healthy but won't affect the bike when its not running.

Quote:
Sorry i meant that it floods when its off! odd i know. If i dont turn the fuel off at the tap then the bike floods and when i go to start it, it wont fire up.


This is the carbs overflowing into a cylinder caused by a faulty needle valve.

Quote:
My carb is a delorto VHSA32GS and the oil is pumped directly into the vaccum tunnel. I was wondering that because i lowered at the main jet which is in the float chamber i have richened the fuel and oil mixture and im running well rich!


Sorry but this is a bit unclear. I think from the rest of your post you fitted a smaller main jet. This will make your bike run LEANER NOT RICHER. Smaller main jet = less fuel = leaner.

Quote:
Also does the float have to be fully dropped at tick over as it seems when i turn the tick over adjuster (which raises the float e.g. letting more fuel + air through) it is raising the needle too high and therefore letting fuel through and the engine flood.


I think you mean the slide not the float. The float is in the bowl at the bottom of the carb and doesn't affect the needle height.

Quote:
I know from what i have seen when i opened up the carb that the floats connot be adjusted and they close nothing off but only seem to regulate the amount of fuel inside the float chamber.


There is a little tongue (or tang) that goes from the float to the needle valve, you bend this to adjust the needle valve.

Quote:
the needle and needle valve are fine and the needle was replaced recently.


Even valves that look ok are often shot. Change it and your problem could well stop.
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Odie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 23 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The easiest thing to do is turn your petrol off when you park up.
The reason your flooding is because the needle valve isnt seating correctly and thus blocking the incoming fuel as it is supposed to do or you have some sh-t in the fuel line just above the needle valve causing the problem.
The reason why you have lots of black smoke and stuff is because the fuel is running into your engine and filling the bottom of you crank case, if this continues you could, one time you start it up and get a hydraulic lock and seize your engine / bend your con rod!
It doesn't matter that you have fitted a new needle valve check it!
Can you afford a new engine?
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yohomiesmelly...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 03 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 23 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the huge reply sickpup and u were right i did mean the slide.
I will be taking the carb out today and giving it the cleaning of its life while looking into this needle valve.

My needle valve looks like it stick out the roof of the float chamber and it just like a stick with a base on it. Should this be a moving part? Thanks
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 03:53 - 27 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukbilleh wrote:

My needle valve looks like it stick out the roof of the float chamber and it just like a stick with a base on it. Should this be a moving part? Thanks


Sorry for taking my time with a reply.

Ok this isn't meant to be patronising just a step by step guide.

1. take your carb off the bike and turn it upside down.

2. The rounded bit on the bottom is the float bowl. It's normally held on with two or four screws in the corners. take the screws out and remove the bowl.

3. Inside you will see the float, big bit of plastic with two chambers hinged on one side. The hinge is normally a metal bar running between two extruded posts that are part of the main body of the carb. Between these two posts is the needle valve.

4. If you tap out the hinge bar VERY CAREFULLY so as not to damage the carb body you will have access to the needle valve.

5. Remove the needle valve which is normally in two parts, the plunger and the body. throw both away and replace.

6. reassemble.

Hope this helps.

Pup
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