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Gears (detailed response please)

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Peasnall
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Gears (detailed response please) Reply with quote

Hi everyone my names peasnall and i am new here,

In december i take my CBT and later that month i get an aprilia RS50, what i am asking is can u lot tell me how to:

-Set off
-Changing gears

How to use the clutch with the throttle when setting off and changing gears.

Reagards James
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you ever driven a car?
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Peasnall
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes but u carnt FLIP a car
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sychosis
Crazy Courier



Joined: 21 May 2004
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a bike already try this on your drive, put it in first, then slowly let the clutch out, when you feel the bike move and the engine noise change apply a little throttle, then slowly release the clutch some more and you will start to go forward. When you change to another gear, throttle down, pull in clutch, change gear start to release clutch whilst reapplying power slowly, this way the engine won't snatch.

edit: Just noticed you don't have a bike yet, when you take you're cbt, the instructor will show you all this anyway. Also it's a good idea to keep your foot on the back brake.
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Peasnall
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanx mate, i have a KX250 in the garage but its too snappy, so i will try it when i get my bike Thumbs Up
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sychosis
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try it on the 250, put the front wheel against a wall so you don't suddenly go forward, and just get a feel for the bite point
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psy?cho?sis (si-ko-sis),n. pl. psy?cho?ses (-sez) ,A severe mental disorder, with or without organic damage, characterized by derangement of personality and loss of contact with reality and causing deterioration of normal social functioning.
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instigator
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Joined: 19 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

see on bigger bikes, are you supposed to manually shut off the throttle....i didn't have to on me 125 but on my 500, when i let go of the throttle and change up, the revs dont die quick enough and when i let the clutch out, it accelerates pretty hard as its at high revs...

that normal or do i need to grease some connections to loosen off the throttle?
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stryker
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 30 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I know the throttle should close pretty damn fast. If the engine takes a while to come down in revs after you've closed the throttle then you should start considering if there are any issues with the carbs.
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mr jamez
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Joined: 04 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peasnall wrote:
yes but u carnt FLIP a car


You would have to give it a load of throttle then dump the clutch to flip the bike, would be pretty hard on a 50cc. Don't worry about gears, it only takes a few hours and it is a little easier on bikes bikes it is just up and down rather than a H gate Smile
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Peasnall
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah thanx people for the info
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27yo kid
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: GPR50 gears Reply with quote

Just (literally two hours ago!) got my first bike.
Am I right in thinking that if you push down hard you go straight down to first? (even if you were in fourth?)
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Peasnall
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 22 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

i find pushin it down about 7 times then up one for Neutral
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stryker
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 30 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

No you will not. To go from 4th to first requires 3 distinct tap downs. Even then you could be in neutral although on most bikes to hit neutral from 2nd requires a kind of half-tap of the foot.

Also if you come to a stop before hitting first you may be tricked into thinking your in first as the pedal will not go any further. The problem is more often than not, what ever gear you are in while stationary your stuck in till you move the bike forward.

Over that last slow metre or two when stopping I give the pedal a few taps to ensure I'm in first. Although as you get better you'll more naturally be in first or second as you come to a stop.
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sychosis
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've found it works from 2nd to 1st, but not from any other gear
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psy?cho?sis (si-ko-sis),n. pl. psy?cho?ses (-sez) ,A severe mental disorder, with or without organic damage, characterized by derangement of personality and loss of contact with reality and causing deterioration of normal social functioning.
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Bomberman
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Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stryker wrote:
Over that last slow metre or two when stopping I give the pedal a few taps to ensure I'm in first.

I always do that. It's really annoying believing you're in first and then stalling and not understanding why for a second Rolling Eyes
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick point, they'll cover about using the gears and clutch in your CBT so you don't need to know about them to do your CBT. Thumbs Up
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nick.h
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Quick point, they'll cover about using the gears and clutch in your CBT so you don't need to know about them to do your CBT.


yes ste thats true, but its good to be prepared, and you would probably be more confident if you know what you are doing.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 19:04 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

There really is no need, the whole idea behind the CBT is to teach you from having never used a bike before to being at a standard safe enough to ride on the roads, if you're wanting to spend time and effort practising using the gears you'll be better doing it after you've done your CBT.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I asked if you had ever driven a car, I was asking to try to find out if you knew the basics of clutch control.

If you do then you should be able to relatively easily transfer this to a bike.

You won't flip a 50 in a million years, and as long as you know that the clutch is on the left bar and the gears are on the left peg, you'll be fine.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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pipnet11
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 17 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 22 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont know if im a one off, but I found changing gear incredibly easy. Japanese gearboxes seem to be incredibly easy and reliable, false neutrals dont seem to exist. The thing that took me a bit of playing with was pulling away, I knew the theory but my brain would not send my arms the right signals. lol Took about 1 1/2 hours to get it right.

I would say try it on the 250 just to get the idea. I find bigger bikes are easier to control clutch wise (my 500 is certainly!) but thats just my opinion

Phill
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mchaggis
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Joined: 10 May 2004
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PostPosted: 04:04 - 23 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, you asked for it. A detailed response you shall receive. See the attachment.* This is going to be referred to throughout. Oh, and don't expect technical drawing standard, ISO and everything... Rolling Eyes If you don't get what it all is, best to look on the urls I put at the bottom, they've got all sorts of interactive and animated gubbins.

Quote:
-Set off
-Changing gears

How to use the clutch with the throttle when setting off and changing gears


First, an explanation of the picture, which is essentially a 3 speed constant mesh car gearbox (I got lazy…). I know bikes have sequential gearboxes and wet clutches, but the basic principles are the same. The engine turns the crankshaft, turning the flywheel. The clutch cover is rigidly attached to the flywheel (bolted to it indeed). The clutch pressure plate is attached to turn in unison with the flywheel.

The clutch plates are splined onto the primary shaft, so they can move along it longitudinally, but not around it (i.e. they turn together with the input to the gearbox). What I haven’t shown is the mechanism with which you release the clutch, but it’s somewhat too complicated for me at 2:30 in the morning…

With the clutch fully ‘let out’, the clutch springs force the pressure plate onto the clutch plates, which in turn is forced onto the flywheel. This means the output shaft from the clutch, (the input to the gearbox) will turn at the same speed as the engine. Obviously, the smaller force pushing the friction surfaces onto the pressure plate and flywheel, the less frictional forces will be generated between them.

The frictional force can be given by: Frictional force = Normal force (at 90 degrees) x coefficient of friction between the surfaces.

Eventually, the force produced by the engine will be greater than the frictional force generated by the amount of clutch you’re using. When this happens, the clutch plates slip; the engine is running faster than they are. This means that the output to the gearbox is slower than the engine speed, obviously if you get it right, you can increase the output speed from zero to the engine speed by slowly increasing the amount of clutch application force. (Letting the clutch out more.)

The point of the clutch is to provide a way to disconnect the drive from the gearbox (for changing gear and standing still), and to allow drive to be provided from zero driveline speed, as the engine will not produce torque from zero.

The drive goes into the gearbox primary shaft, transferred to the layshaft, and transferred back to the main output shaft. This then goes to the wheel(s). The gears on the main shaft and layshaft are constantly meshed, so they are all turning at once. The main thing to remember is that the gears around the output shaft are perfectly free to turn around it. These gears are attached to the output shaft by means of dog clutches, which are little toothed wheels which fit into a corresponding recess on each of the gears. The dog clutches are splined onto the output shaft, but can slide along it to engage the different gears. To get these to engage properly, you need to match the engine speed through the clutch (or throttle) with the speed of the wheels, so that the dog clutch will slot neatly in without grinding it’s teeth against the gear. The dog clutch is pushed back and forth along the main output shaft by forks which sit in a groove around the circumference of the clutch.

So then, to set off, select first, rev the engine reasonably highly, perhaps to 4000 rpm, then [i]slowly[/i[ let the clutch out. This lets the plates slide and so the drive is taken up through the gearbox slowly, allowing the wheel speed to match the engine speed gradually. If the wheel speed is not allowed to slowly achieve the same as the engine speed by slipping the clutch, the resistance to the wheel pushing the ground will stop the engine from moving, hence a stall.

If you increase the throttle so as to keep the engine speed constant whilst the clutch is being let out, it can also help keep you from stalling, as the engine is producing more torque so more force is needed to stop it.


For changing gear, you need to disengage the gearbox from the engine by pulling the clutch in. Then you press up on the gear lever, which will push the dog clutch into engagement with the correct gear, and if they’re synchronised, the gear will be engaged, whereupon you let the clutch out and accelerate again. The principle is the same dropping down gears too.

A handy technique is called ‘clutchless upshifting’. This is controlling the matching of speeds using the throttle, controlling the engine speed directly, rather than slowly allowing the gearbox to match it. Basically, when you are going to change up, the gear ratios mean that the engine will be running more slowly after the change. Hence, when you are wanting to change up, place a little pressure upwards on the gear lever, and blip the throttle down. Hopefully, the pressure on the lever will engage the next gear while the engine drops in speed when you blip the throttle.

More than an hour’s work later (half hour writing that, and half hour on MS Paint), and I hope you appreciate the effort! I knew this degree course would come in useful for something…
Mr. Green


Also see https://www.howstuffworks.com/sequential-gearbox.htm and https://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm.

*The drawing is only in MS Paint, and while is more or less complete in detail, there are significant parts missing, particularly in the clutch, bearings and oil drainage plugs. edit: Oh and also there's 3 gears missing too. Whistle
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CBRPETER
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 29 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 23 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok simply from a off bike, Hold in clutch while turning key will start the bike, Tap down to first, ease off the clutch while you ease on the accelerator, you'll get the feel of how much to give as you go along, to change to 2nd get off the accelerator, pull in clutch, ease off as you ease on accelerator.

No-one covred this - When braking, hold in brakes while shifting down gears, BUT keep the revs up while your changing gears by giving a bit of accelerator.

As for your theory on how japanese bikes have great gearboxes. Have you ridden the new gsxr 750's, i've had 3 false neutrals on it and iv'e only ridden one twice, probably just me.
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pipnet11
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 17 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 23 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
As for your theory on how japanese bikes have great gearboxes


Ok that was a bit of a generalisation. However compared to old english gearboxes I still bet the japanese one wins!

Phill[/quote]
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I love the girls that do, I hate the girls that dont, I hate the girls who say they will and then they say they wont, but the girl I like most of all and I think youll say Im right, is the girl who says she never has but looks as though she might. - Max Bygraves
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Gazdaman
I did a trackday!!!



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 24 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bike's got a neutral between every gear which is a nice added suprise.

Gaz
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proximity
Crazy Courier



Joined: 08 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 24 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
My bike's got a neutral between every gear which is a nice added suprise.

Gaz

Whats the point in that as you will need first from neutral anyway, or is it not supposed to do that.

Also to the guy above, nice explanation and diagram! What is your job, do you make these or something Razz

Edit: After reading your profile, i have just applied to that uni for Mechanical Engineering Very Happy are you doing the Meng course?
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