Chains. Drive chains.

[_Iain_]

Can i run a non o-ring chain on the road? They're a fucksight cheaper than other chains. However most say for MX bikes only on em.

I'm aware that they need a lot more lubrcation than normal chains, however i find myself giving the chain a quick brush of motor oil as a part of my daily routine
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[janner_10]

I always thought the O ring chains didn't last as long, but not a massive amount in it. Don't they tend to be the domain of the smaller cc, less powerful vehicles?

From experience, I brought a cheap Ebay chain and sprockets for the Fazer, lasted 8k miles, looked after too. I then invested in a decent DID x ring and it didn't need any adjustment from the 14k miles I did on it pre-write off.

I brought cheap and paid twice, as tends to happen.
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Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[_Iain_]

O ring, non O ring, X ring.

I'm at a loss to what it all means, and what i actually need to get.
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[numpty2]

X ring is supposed to be the best.
O ring, and I think X ring, have O rings (surprise!) in all the links. The links are pre-lubed inside, and the O rings stop the oil escaping. You still need to lube them externally as well.

There is nothing really that wrong with the plain chains, after all we all used to have them, but they generally wear much quicker.

My latest bike has a plain chain & cheap sprockets and I'm getting fed up with all the adjusting. It will be replaced by O ring when its worn out.

If you're keeping the bike, I vote for O ring every time. Cheaper in the long run.

[bladerunner]

All bikes used to be non oring until about 20 years ago! O ring chain is one that uses small o rings between the side plates to keep grease in between the rollers and keep water...road grime etc out thus making them lower maintenance and last longer. X ring chains work on the same idea but the seals have an X shape seal rather than the std O cross section. Non o/x ring chains are also used on track bikes because they have a little less drag than the o/x ring chains but need changing more often. If its for the gs500 I would go for a good quality heavy duty o or if you can afford it like the previous post I got over 13k miles out of my old fire blade to where as lower spec kits would last me less than 8k miles. Most important whatever chain you go for is it must match or exceed the oem chain!
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[Noxious89123]

Put a DID X-ring chain on my last bike, did about 16k on it, probably about 12k+ of that with a scottoiler on there. The gold colouring eventually faded away, and it started to become a little stiff, but I think that's because it was stored damp over winter.

Think it was only adjusted once, maybe twice if the tyre fitters did it when I had new rubber at some point.

When the chain needs replacing on this bike I will again opt for a DID X-ring chain, although I'm not putting a scottoiler on this time. The credit card holder under the seat cowl wouldn't accomodate one.
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'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi

[_Iain_]

So assuming i went for a non o ring, kept it clean and lubed up, what do i want. Standard, heavy duty, stronger than heavy duty?

Whats stronger than heavy duty even listed as
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[numpty2]

If you are going to do enough miles, the O ring chain will work out cheaper.

If you just want a cheap chain, go heavy duty. I had a standard chain once - standard my arse! Fit for a pushbike & nothing else.

It also depends on the bikes. Larger single cylinder engines are much worse for chain wear. It's all down to power delivery, with a single pulsing the chain much more than a 4 cylinder.

[_Iain_]

GS500, which has been downgeared.

Is likely to be ill treated by owner

I'll be happy to get a month/2k miles out of it.
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[numpty2]

Well a cheap standard chain would certainly manage 2k miles. Wemoto seem to be offering DID standard chain for GS500, but it depends on the model.

Are you saying you will only have it for 2k miles? The GS500 has a good reputation for coping with abuse, you might be surprised. You could get a reasonable chain + sprockets for around £80:
https://www.bitzforbikes.co.uk/DID_VX_X-Ring_Chain_and_Sprocket_Kit_OEM-ref-17270-8520-306-.html

[P.addy]

Anything...literally. I bought the cheapest chain I could find. If you want a fairly used one but clean and stuff once I get my new sprocket you can have my old x ring from the sm.

[Pete.]

YOu have to look after a non-o-ring chain very well as there's nothing to stop the grease from escaping. I run a non-o-ring on my 'busa but that's because it was to be used on the runway and the DRZ530 is about the strongest chain you can put on it. However, it's noticably stretched after a few hundred road miles and will be replaced with a good o-ring chain when it dies.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[_Iain_]

Boosh. Done.

Now the proud owner of a "racing" chain.

This should make for 193879143659465143517 horsepowers.


____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[P.addy]

Do you have engine?

[_Iain_]